buezeone: good day all. please can anyone tell me what migh be he problen with my Passat FSI Tubor. he engine goes off when I break he car. please help. thanks

danny devito: baba siena or a first time buyer, who needs ruggedity fuel efficiency and overall low cost maitainance which of these two rides would u advice me to take, VW VENTO 94, AUDI TIGER FACE, VW GOLF 3 pls give reasons

danny devito: baba siena or a first time buyer, who needs ruggedity fuel efficiency and overall low cost maitainance which of these two rides would u advice me to take, VW VENTO 94, AUDI TIGER FACE, VW GOLF 3 pls give reasons

The Volkswagen Vento and Volkswagen Golf III are mechanically similar, with the Vento being a booted version of the Golf, which is a hatchback. Whichever you pick will depend on the intended use. Saloon is more of a family car, the hatchback is more sport-oriented, and with a hatch, easier to get large, bulky items into the luggage compartment.

Cheap to buy and run, I would avoid the 1,4 models. With a meagre 60 hp, they are slow, and the engines work hard in the heavy body, which raises fuel consumption to alarming levels for such a small engine.

My pick would be the 1,6 / 1,8 SPFi (Single-Point Fuel Injection). This is as close to a carburetted model as you'll ever get, the Golf III and Vento were only available as fuel-injected cars. Avoid converted carburettor models, they're thirsty, and these conversions bring their own set of issues. The 2,0 models are not much quicker, just burn more gas. If you want performance, then the 2,0 GTI 8 or 16V models are great, not to be confused with the regular 2,0 GL.

My preferred transmission would be manual, they are simplicity itself, with nothing to go wrong. All bar the 2,0 GTI 16V have cable-operated clutch, so easy for even the fairly handy DIY user to work on. With a Repair Manual, you can cut down trips to a mechanic to a minimum, the engine bays are large, as they were designed to accept the range-topping 2,8 / 2,9 VR6. So with an I4 motor, lots of room to work, with easy access to commonly-replaced items.

Not much goes wrong on these cars, the most common issue being the central locking. It is vacuum-operated, and leaks are common. Most frequent source of leaks is where the vacuum pipe goes through the driver's door into the body (by the hinges). The pipe can split, but repairs are easy.

I've not given any details on the Audi "Tiger Face", as I have no idea what that model is.

Olivernewton39: How can One get the software to programme and correct automatic gears?

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ib+babs:
[size=8pt]I will like to sell my Audi 80 Automatic at the rate N250k (Negotiable). Interested individual should call 08188202385 or 08023416369 or info.bosnetworks@gmail.com

I want to sell this not because it is faulty or its giving me problem, its because i am in urgent need of money, honestly if i can obtain loan i will never never and never sell the car because of its ruggedness, cheap and always available part, lower fuel consumption among others. it is stil neat and u dont need to do anything on it than to fuel and start using immediately.

zakaliyu: I have a VW Passat V6 4motion 2002 model, I hear a rattling and knocking sound each time I am driving on a rough road. The sound is from the drivers side wheel, and each time I am making a sharp bend the OBD will display brake failure with a warning peeeep!! Sound. Although the brake will be functioning properly. A road side mechanic, said it is the tie rod, and he change it in my presence. The sound is still coming from the same wheel and the brake failure is still displaying if I make a bend. Please Oga Siena help me unravel this situation. Thank you.

Seguneji: Hi siena, I want to buy a 2001 VW golf 4 V5 engine automatic transmiSsion american spec. Is it a good choice, I really need ur advice asap. Thanks in anticipation

Siena: Nothing wrong with your choice of wheels, there's no correlation between the change, and your subsequent transmission failure.

1) Your transmission is a ZF5HP19-A. There are two separate fluids - one for the differential, the other for the transmission itself. Both are NOT interchangeable.

The fluid in the differential is the most common to leak. It leaks from the left-hand output shaft (to driveshaft), or the rear output shaft (to propeller). Cause is a worn oil seal. The symptoms of leaks are the smell of burning oil, as it drips onto the left-hand catalyst. If it is ignored, over a period of time the oil level will drop sufficiently for the differential to become noisy, and it will eventually fail, due to damaged bearings.

If your mechanic put Mobil ATF into your transmission, that will kill it. If that's what's in your current transmission, expect an expensive repair. Audi does NOT use ATF in the transmission!! It uses a specif fluid.

2) Do your replacement brake pads have pad wear indicators? I'm assuming the warning is for the brake, pads, and NOT the ABS. If your old pads have wear indicators, and the replacements dont, the warning will activate.

3) I'm inclined to link this to problem #2. If the warning in #2 only comes on when the car begins to move, then you have an ABS issue, could be a duff wheel speed sensor, or faulty combined ABS hydraulic modulator / ECM. A scan will tell. If it's a wheel speed sensor, live data will tell which sensor has zero reading (in km/h).

4) I can only advice a scan, rather than guess, and ill-advice you.

5) I can get you a manual and diag. for Audi.

6) With 193 hp, your Audi A6 won't be a rapid car, but progress should still be brisk. With your check engine light illuminated, don't expect optimum performance, It's most likely in limp mode, and it would be unwise to drive it hard, until the issues are resolved.

oaivy: @ siena, thanks for your quick response . i appreciate ur commitment. i cannot afford to spend a dime on that transmission again. is there still a way to remedy the situation. can you recommend the exact fluid am to use and where i can get it. you can email me on olanree008@gmail.com about the manual and diag. i rili love the car and want to keep it or maybe trade it for a 4.2liter a6.

whiteboyswag: Many greetings 2 you Brov.
VW bora
I.6ltr
5speed manual

2001
I have since noticed that the manual trans of this ride has something wrong with it. Last time the gear was been stiff n the clutch pedals wz not dropin completely. I had 2 change the disc n plate then changed the upper clutch(donno if I'm rite with my terms) but after all it came back 2 life.after 3months or there about it hz started again. Wat can I do 4 a permanent solution n I meet a mechanic that said he can convert it 2 cable clutch system what do U̶̲̥̅̊ think I need your urgent advice cos left 2me this is the best car I hv ever own the fuel economy is lovely I use a full tank for close to 2 weeks. I'll appreciate ur advice.