Mazda Thread - Car Talk (2) - Nairaland
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Mazda Mpv Vs Toyota Sienna For Transportation. / Mazda MPV Problems: Car Won't Accelerate Beyond 60km/hr At Half-tank / Is Mazda MPV Prone To Auto Gear Problems? (2) (3) (4)
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| Re: Mazda Thread by pragmatistm(m): 8:48pm On Jul 03, 2014 |
braimahjak:Your response is not appreciated. I didn't ask for a guess rather I asked for reliable info on engine oil and manual gear oil. You can destroy someone's car by this kind of post, haba. |
| Re: Mazda Thread by kenmaro: 9:51pm On Jul 04, 2014 |
Please, does anyone here know an experienced and good mazda specialist mechanic in Lagos? |
| Re: Mazda Thread by kenmaro: 8:52am On Jul 16, 2014 |
Help! My car stumbles as if it wants to stall when accelerating slightly from a stop and it also surges when in motion sometimes especially when my leg is off the accelerator pedal and I am descending a slope. There's no vacuum leak present, no hard starting in the morning, it vibrates gently when at stop in traffic, there is considerable power loss. Spark plugs are brand new bosch iridium and ignition coils are brand new too, injectors were serviced recently, maf sensor was also cleaned with a crc maf sensor cleaner and throttle body too was cleaned. Car details: 2007 Mazda 6i 2.3L 4cylinder |
| Re: Mazda Thread by sultaan(m): 5:10am On Jul 17, 2014 |
Do you have any codes? Take some pictures of the engine and the dash while its in Idle kenmaro: Help! My car stumbles as if it wants to stall when accelerating slightly from a stop and it also surges when in motion sometimes especially when my leg is off the accelerator pedal and I am descending a slope. There's no vacuum leak present, no hard starting in the morning, it vibrates gently when at stop in traffic, there is considerable power loss. Spark plugs are brand new bosch iridium and ignition coils are brand new too, injectors were serviced recently, maf sensor was also cleaned with a crc maf sensor cleaner and throttle body too was cleaned. |
| Re: Mazda Thread by kenmaro: 2:45pm On Jul 17, 2014 |
Ok. The only code i have now is P0128 ''Coolant temperature below thermostat regulating temperature". And i have already ordered for a new thermostat. It idles steadily except when the ac is on and it fluctuates a little when the ac compressor kicks on and off at a normal operation. |
| Re: Mazda Thread by Boy2boy: 4:39pm On Jul 20, 2014 |
kenmaro: Ok. The only code i have now is P0128 ''Coolant temperature below thermostat regulating temperature". And i have already ordered for a new thermostat. It idles steadily except when the ac is on and it fluctuates a little when the ac compressor kicks on and off at a normal operation.the problem is already half-solved but are u sure no other code(s)? If yes, test d present thermostat by putin it in water nd apply heat. If nt opened when it gets to d optimum temp or stuck open when d water cools down, replace and erase the code b4 test-drivin. If d thermostat tested ok, inspect d ect sensor. |
| Re: Mazda Thread by kzzyjoe(m): 9:23am On Jul 26, 2014 |
Pls I'm having serious issue with my car. Mazda 626 1998 v6. model hatchback. Its not starting at all but rolling fine n Firring. Wetting all the plugs, if it luckily start its with heavy... I mean heavy smoke. I had change injector nuzzles but still not starting. A rewire recommended changing the brainbox. Pls can someone help identify the problem? |
| Re: Mazda Thread by Solyzpix: 4:53pm On Jul 26, 2014 |
Mazda 6 for sale 2005model Call-08104005512 for info
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| Re: Mazda Thread by Boy2boy: 10:20am On Jul 27, 2014 |
kzzyjoe: Pls I'm having serious issue with my car. Mazda 626 1998 v6. model hatchback. Its not starting at all but rolling fine n Firring. Wetting all the plugs, if it luckily start its with heavy... I mean heavy smoke. I had change injector nuzzles but still not starting. A rewire recommended changing the brainbox. Pls can someone help identify the problem?The vehicle is obd2 compliant, scan first and let see the dtc code(s) you generated for proper diagnosis. |
| Re: Mazda Thread by sultaan(m): 6:40pm On Jul 27, 2014 |
Boy2boy: You have to scan and stop guessing even by what you said I can guess what is going on but you all keep using really bad mechanics that always make things worse and give excuse its not toyota. Your sproblem probably got worse when your mechanic serviced it. Alway give information on what was done before problem started. You fuel injectors are working but spark plugs not firing or firing in right order check to make sure plug/ coil wires are on the right cylinder start with a cylinder drop test |
| Re: Mazda Thread by sultaan(m): 6:43pm On Jul 27, 2014 |
kenmaro: Help! My car stumbles as if it wants to stall when accelerating slightly from a stop and it also surges when in motion sometimes especially when my leg is off the accelerator pedal and I am descending a slope. There's no vacuum leak present, no hard starting in the morning, it vibrates gently when at stop in traffic, there is considerable power loss. Spark plugs are brand new bosch iridium and ignition coils are brand new too, injectors were serviced recently, maf sensor was also cleaned with a crc maf sensor cleaner and throttle body too was cleaned. Can you give the part number of the spark plugs you may have the wrong one, the one you need is written on the emission label of the hood when you open the bonnet, Bosch if mainly for german cars, you should be using motorcraft or autolite |
| Re: Mazda Thread by kenmaro: 10:39am On Jul 28, 2014 |
sultaan: I used Bosch 9617 iridium spark plugs |
| Re: Mazda Thread by sultaan(m): 5:18pm On Jul 28, 2014 |
kenmaro: You have the right spark plug try start the engine and disconnect the wires to the ignition coil on at a time see if there is any cylinder that makes no change to engine sound when disconnected. a cylinder that is not working will make no difference to the way engine runs. I am not looking for a bad coil since you just changed them, just the possibility that the ignition wires were connected to the wrong coil so it will be a possibility if 2 if the cylinders make no difference Can you by any chance remember what happened to the car just before this problem started and maybe a couple of close range pics of the engine with engine cover removed ,looking for unusual loose wires/hoses |
| Re: Mazda Thread by pragmatistm(m): 9:23pm On Jul 29, 2014 |
pragmatistm: People, what is the recommended engine and manual gear oil for mazda 626 1998 model? Thanks for your response.Still in need of the items mentioned. |
| Re: Mazda Thread by kenmaro: 10:43am On Aug 03, 2014 |
sultaan:
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| Re: Mazda Thread by sultaan(m): 2:54am On Aug 04, 2014 |
everything looks fine, you have not mentioned what happened just before the problem started |
| Re: Mazda Thread by kenmaro: 8:59am On Aug 04, 2014 |
Prior to this, the services done was intake manifold gasket change which I had to change twice Bcoz d stock pcv hose was ruptured during d first reinstallment so I had to remove d intake again to change d pcv valve & hose with brand new sets including intake gasket. it was even when I was hearing this hissing sound from d engine bay around d intake side that made me to suspect a ruptured pcv hose and at thesame time I started feeling d stumbling stuff. But now I have reinstalled new sets which I personally supervised to make sure it was properly reinstalled, which was done well but I still feel d stumble though it's less compared to before. The mechanic was like could it be d AC gas was overfilled which might be d stumbling cause Bcoz there was a worn ac valve seal which was replaced and d AC gas was flushed and refilled too. Also, I cleaned d egr valve and reinstall with a new oem gasket. |
| Re: Mazda Thread by UBA001: 3:49am On Aug 26, 2014 |
kenmaro: 1998 Mazda 626 manual gear oil isThank God for this thread! What about the recommended engine oil and filter for Mazda 626 hatchback 1.8 1999 to 2000 manual transmission? Your answer to this question can save a family lots of endless search and visits to their mechanic. |
| Re: Mazda Thread by Femsyn(m): 12:23pm On Aug 26, 2014 |
Been driving a Mazda Xedos '98 model for about 5yrs now. Smooth ride, although mechanics complain of its tight engine area. |
| Re: Mazda Thread by UBA001: 12:40am On Aug 31, 2014 |
kenmaro: 1998 Mazda 626 manual gear oil isBros, kindly help me! What is the recommended engine oil and gear oil for 1999/2000 Mazda 626 1.8 (hatchback) manual transmission? |
| Re: Mazda Thread by 19naia(m): 1:56am On Aug 31, 2014 |
I bought a new 2007 Mazda B-2300 in 2007.. I drove it 70miles to 100 miles roundtrip a day and sometimes on rare long out of town trip of a few hundred miles in one day.. The car went to 60k miles before i replaced brakes and did the recommended full service scheduled... I always changed the oil on time.. My first problem was at 100k miles and it was needing a full tune up with replaced wires and Spark distribution unit... The car was perfect again... Then i left the car with friends who abused it well for me and i returned to strange sounds and alignment problems.. So i was diagnosed by mechanics to replace the front upper and lower ball joints and the U joints... All this after 128k miles.. After spending around $1000 on restoring the car, it was driving like new and then i ran fuel system cleaner through the car and changed to synthetic engine oil... The truck began to get its best gas mileage and smooth engine function... The only thing i could find to make the car perfect was to service the pulley system that would squeal in the early morning cold start and then quiet down after a few minutes... I decided to sell the car because it was too much to ship it with me when i moved... I sold it online this year in March and it sold the same day i posted it for sale on line... I believe the car will easily give another 130k miles to the new owner with no more service to the car than i did for the 7 years it served me well.. Not bad for the cheapest new truck selling in town in 2007.. Also it had the best gas mileage of any 4 cylinder truck that year.. 29 highway miles per gallon... That car drove the worst roads every day for me and i know my friends abused it well and it took it like a champ... I used 2 sets of tires over 130k miles and i sold it with the 3rd new set on it.. The original tires were the worst but lived up to the warranty period and beyond... The Pictures are from when i used to drive to the beach and camp in the truck overnight for fresh ocean air and tranquility... Also a picture when i drove on the Volcanic lava field to visit my friend living there.. I would never live there but my tuck handled driving the bad roads to go and visit there 3 Likes
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| Re: Mazda Thread by pragmatistm(m): 7:50pm On Sep 13, 2014 |
UBA001:10w-30 is the recommended oil for both the 4 and 6 cylinder american spec models. You can also use 5w-30. |
| Re: Mazda Thread by barthosa(m): 1:05pm On Sep 14, 2014 |
Hi I have a mazda cx 7, 4 cylinders. 2007 car, and I have Been having rough idling and high fuel consumption. The car jerks while in motion, until I press the gas pedal hard before it clears. I have done everything possible to correct this anomaly, but to no avail. I have changed all 4 plugs, changed valves, washed fuel pump, serviced nossles, but still getting random misfire code. The engine check lights blinks each time I have a misfire, but it's no more blinking, light is still on. Rough idling persists, and fuel consumption is terrible, I can always see the fuel needle move while driving a suppose 4 cylinder. Please I need help on this issues If need be., refer me to a good mechanic here in abuja. thanks regards Barthosa |
| Re: Mazda Thread by pragmatistm(m): 1:39pm On Sep 14, 2014 |
barthosa: HiWhenever your car has a problem your first duty is to scan the car. Try and do that first. |
| Re: Mazda Thread by sultaan(m): 10:56pm On Sep 14, 2014 |
barthosa: Hi They have messed up that car, your problem is a simple vacuum leak plus misfire. If a car has not been tapered with I can easily diagnose it but once they start messing with it like you said Change valves its game over. Unless you misunderstood what they did it can easily be fixed with a cylinder drop test and leak test. since check engine light is blinking stop driving scan and post result, if you mechanics have done damage trying online help. |
| Re: Mazda Thread by 19naia(m): 4:49am On Sep 15, 2014 |
sultaan: The Mazda truck i had, i posted photos above... It had the jerky motion problem to it at 98k miles.. It started small and became a stronger jerkiness.. I took it to the dealer for service and the did a Major tune up.. It was not enough to replace spark plugs and wires, but also the spark distribution module. It wont be a rotor type distribution cap, but a modern one.. It manages the spark distribution and when it goes bad, it creates misfire due to poor management of the spark distribution... Its a very easy fix right on top of the engine center area... It happens at around 100k mile in most Mazda trucks... If he hasn't changed the spark distribution module, then that is the problem and an easy fix... The same fix i got at USA Mazda dealer service department with genuine mazda corporation service and parts and certified technicians... |
| Re: Mazda Thread by 19naia(m): 4:51am On Sep 15, 2014 |
barthosa: Hi The Mazda truck i had, i posted photos above... It had the jerky motion problem to it at 98k miles.. It started small and became a stronger jerkiness.. I took it to the dealer for service and they did a Major tune up.. It was not enough to replace spark plugs and wires, but also the spark distribution module. It wont be a rotor type distribution cap, but a modern one.. It manages the spark distribution and when it goes bad, it creates misfire due to poor management of the spark distribution... Its a very easy fix right on top of the engine center area... It happens at around 100k miles in most Mazda trucks... If he hasn't changed the spark distribution module, then that is the problem and an easy fix... The same fix i got at USA Mazda dealer service department with genuine mazda corporation service and parts and certified technicians... |
| Re: Mazda Thread by barthosa(m): 7:22am On Sep 15, 2014 |
Thanks for the reply. Valve replacement was done after scan showed p0302 with weak compression on that cylinder. After which compression went back to normal and the new code was p0300. Having checked online that most users of this car have done valves replacement as a routine, I didn't bother much on doing same. will scan the car again this morning and post codes here. The last scan showed p0300. P0480 and P0481. As at then the engine check light was flashing. It's no more flashing now but still getting the jerking but no misfire recorded. my thinking was towards fuel distribution problem rather than vacuum leaks as different mechanics have checked it out. thanks |
| Re: Mazda Thread by barthosa(m): 10:02am On Sep 15, 2014 |
Guys I just got it scanned. Came up with same codes. P0300. P0480 and P0481. My question now is why does it misfire after scanning and clearing of codes, because on my way back from the scan, the engine light flashes with lose of engine power. Had to park until it stopped. Drove home now without flashing. Meaning it has stored the misfire code again. Please I need urgent help. The engine power is still superb when not misfiring. I can get 180km/hr in 30 seconds. |
| Re: Mazda Thread by kenmaro: 12:56pm On Sep 15, 2014 |
barthosa: Guys I just got it scanned. Came up with same codes. P0300. P0480 and P0481. My question now is why does it misfire after scanning and clearing of codes, because on my way back from the scan, the engine light flashes with lose of engine power. Had to park until it stopped. Drove home now without flashing. Meaning it has stored the misfire code again. My brother, you have allowed naija mechanics to use your car as a simulating test machine for their practice. What you are having in ur mazda CX does not warrant any mechanic to go as far as changing your valves as a first start. I was having an intermittent check light and was getting either a P0300 or P0301 sometimes with rough idling at cold start. I did cleaned the fuel filter, cleaned maf sensor, changed air filter, and changed the air/fuel ratio sensor (top oxygen sensor) but it didn't help. Not until some two months ago after a long drive that i had a whistling sound coming from the engine bay, it turned out to be a leak at the plastic intake manifold gasket point by cylinder #1 as a result of a crack at the plastic intake manifold gasket sitting. I had the entire plastic intake manifold changed, two weeks after the manifold changed, because it had to relearn the system, my car drives good now. My fuel consumption is superb now and no more rough idling. The crack on the plastic intake manifold was caused by wear and tear process which caused heat expansion on the intake manifold which is built with plastic materials as obtainable in almost all modern cars. Steps to take: Carefully check for vacuum leaks around the intake lines & systems including possible leaks at the exhaust flange Do u top-up engine oil at some interval because it's short, then inspect your pcv valve and check the pcv hose for any crack too. Check ur ignition coils if they are in good condition. For the jerk in motion, check the fuel pump pressure. Maybe the fuel pump pressure is weak which is giving an inconsistent fuel supply thereby requiring you to floor the gas pedal for more fuel supply to stop the jerk. Also, be sure that you have the right spark plugs in there too. I would recommend OEM spark plugs and also do endeavor to use genuine brand new OEM replacement parts. |
| Re: Mazda Thread by 19naia(m): 4:00pm On Sep 15, 2014 |
barthosa: Guys I just got it scanned. Came up with same codes. P0300. P0480 and P0481. My question now is why does it misfire after scanning and clearing of codes, because on my way back from the scan, the engine light flashes with lose of engine power. Had to park until it stopped. Drove home now without flashing. Meaning it has stored the misfire code again. When I had that problem, everything about it seemed like fuel delivery problem. It would run fine and then jerky and there was always plenty power and even the engine sounded fine.. Just the jerky motion that got worse over time... If you have not ever changed the spark fire management module, then that can explain the misfire.. It manages all the firing order of the spark plugs... When that module goes bad, nothing will help you other than to replace it.. Even new spark plugs and wires and new fuel system and lines and so on etc will be a waste of time... It can mimic fuel problem because the burning of the fuel is affected by the spark being sporadically blocked with bad timing order.. Please go and check the spark plug Firing management module..Older cars called them the distributor cap which was mechanical and rotary... Modern ones are compact electronic modules... Follow the wires from the spark plug positions in the engine, all of them should converge at a module which distributes their input current for proper timing without misfire... It may have a plastic cover on it or it may be a metal or plastic module box.. There are other wire feeds to and from it that go to the cars power supply and cars main computer... Just be sure all those other wires are in good order properly connected and not damaged... If you have never replaced the Module i am talking about, then do replace it because it manages the issues of proper order of firing for the engine spark-plugs... Maybe post a,picture of your Open engine bay so we can see where the Module is located to help you identify it... |
| Re: Mazda Thread by barthosa(m): 6:39pm On Sep 15, 2014 |
Thanks guys, really appreciate the input. I haven't changed the module before so will probably have that checked too. Unfortunately, I can't snap the engine bay showing the wires because an intercooler is sitting on top the engine and is very hot. I use original iridium plugs. All I really need now is a good referral to a mechanic here in abuja that will trace all this issues and get I done. Even the fuel pressure test. Don't know where to do it. By the way, the car has another high pressure pump mounted on the engine to engine adequate supply. I tried remove the electrical socket on the body to check if it's working, and I confirmed working as the rrough idling increased and ticking sounds from the engine stopped. Please guys I need a good mechanic in abuja. Mr ikenna . I know you deal on Peugeot, if u can help me out, please do. Thanks everyone. |
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