Silas0: God bless you for this good work.

Amen thank you silas0

salbis: I use honda accord 1999 model uk. I noticed that whenever I throttled, the car will make a sound as if it sucks air. And I have changed the plugs. Could any leakage from the exhaust cause this problem? Or is there anything wrong with the engine? Please I need your help. Thanks as I awaits u.

Check for leaks arround the intake area since its a sucking sound.

Sucking sounds do not come from exaust. Iv attached a pic of your intake components I hope it helps out check that area.

Pls I need a headway here
I drive a hyundai xg 30, 3.0l V6 DOHC ..

I have the following issues:
1. Rough idling
2. Very low rpm, sometimes stalling
3. Hesitation on acceleration..but when it eventually picks, it zooms off.
4. Engine surging.

I ran a comprehensive scan on it, and the following codes came out..
P0101, 0106, 0113, 0136, 0141, 0156, 0171, 0175, 0183, 0446..

I have replaced, all spark plugs, coils, maf, fuel pump, fuel filter..

The problem still persist

I am not too sure where the map sensor is... Though I changed one sensor that was attached to d throttle body, I think that's the tps after all, as there was no improvement.

Pls I need your contribution..

Attached is a pic of the sensor I changed..

sampepe12: I have a 190 mercedez car, it consumes fuel a lot, what should I do, what is the causee.... It is an injector car..

Since its an injector fuel cunsumption is ecu based, and over fueling could be caused by so many factors I will list them as I remmeber.

Faulty oxygen sensor
Faulty/wrong type of spark plugs
Faulty/disconected thermostat
Engine running too cold
Misaligned timing marks
Faulty injector/s
Faulty ecu/ecm(brainbox)
Blocked air box filter
Leaking fuel lines
Blocked fuel pressure valve


Try and rule them out one at a time and your problem will be solved

SirAweezy:


Can absence of Catalytic Converter(either bad or stolen) affect fuel cosumption of a car?

Depending on where the catalyst is placed.

The main reason a catalyst is put in a vehicle is to reduce environmental pollution, unfortunately the presence of a catalyst actually reduces the horse power of an engine, it sort of retards the flow of exaust fumes, welding a straight pipe across an unmonitored catalyst will not trigger any errors on your ecm, but its not adviceable.

Back to your question proper, if you have a catalyst without the presence of an oxygen sensor in front of it it, its not monitored by the ecm and the presence or absence of the catalyst will not affect fuel consupmtion if there is a sensor infront and at the rear, abuse of the catalyst will result in dtc errors and consumtion issues.

LordOrochimaru: Good job OP, you are an authority in this field...I hope I don't have issues when I buy my first car in 2-3years by God's grace but if I do, I will definitely come running to you via this thread

You are welcome any time.

GAZZUZZ.

Plz I need SAE 5W 20 engine oil for my car I ve looked for it but don't know where to get it. I will prefer fully synthetic one, thanks.

WOW!!!! MUCH AWAITED

murtalaa: Hello, I replaced my Peugeot 406 tyres and then balancing and alignment was done after the replacement. But the problem is that I noticed my gear stick is no longer soft. I have to struggle to change gear. Please what is the solution.

In basket mouths voice "2 things are involved" its either

Lubrication issues

Mechanical issues.

Lubrication issues: the absence of oil in the gear box or the wrong type of oil will cause stiff shifting, the recommended oil for peugeot 406 manual transmission is: 75W-80 (fully synthetic)that's what comes with your vehicle, but if you have ever topped with any oils outside this you will experience stiff shifting unlike what you are used to, the closest available match for gear oil in nigeria is total 85W-90 and 85W-140 if you want 75W-80 you might have to order for it.

Mechanical issues: clutch pressure plate and disk issues could also cause a stiff shift, check to see if the car enters reverse without any strange noises, and if there is no irregular vibration when taking off. Also press pedal fully to the floor before swiching gears.

Best of luck.

aceman: Very useful thread.

I had the wheel studs and break pads on my Odyssey replaced 3 days ago, and since then the ABS and TCS has been on. The mechanic did a lot of banging during the work, could he have damaged anything? The car moves ok, not I'm not comfortable with those indicators being on like that. Pls what can be the problem and likely solution?

One or both abs sensors located in the front wheels of you vehicle has been damaged, with a simple multimeter a good technician can locate and replace the faulty culprit. Unfortunately you might have to scan your vehicle to locate the faulty sensor new sensors cost arround 5k each, tokumbor are like 2500-3k each.

Bizibi: please I have a problem with the a/c in the ml Mercedes I drive,I was told the gas is leaking....is there any way one can fix this problem without creating a mess

Depends on the kind of leak, a simple leak caused by an old faulty O ring is a simple leak and an easy fix, but a leak caused by fracture to the condenser will involve welding and if not properly done will lead to consistent visits to the ac technician, if for any reason the leak is from the compressor have it replaced and get a guarantee on the job. So what type of leak is it?

I forgot to mention the leak could be from a faulty hose also have it replaced.

When dealing with ac leaks its better to have leAking sections replaced insted of welding if you can afford it, will save you in the long run.

mokset123: Gazzuzz lovely thread. I have a honda accord 2004 lx model. I withness intense vibrations when my car is idiling and it becomes worse with the ac on. I was told to change my 3 engine mounts which I did, yet the vibrations hasnt left, also cleaned the inner part of my throttle body. Yet, the vibrations hasnt disappeared. My check light read this code p0141.

The vibrations are caused by a faulty idle speed valve if you have clean it and its still not working just have it replaced.

The error code is for a faulty secondary oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2 (heater circuit) I'm guessing your car is a 4 cylinder so its the sensor located on the exhaust pipe after the catalyst, check if the harness is connected properly, if it is have it replaced with a brand new one where I'm from it is 10k tokumbor is 5K. After replacing rest and re scan after running the engine for 30mins.


Best of luck

Klem28: This great job from you is highly commendable. More blessing.
Please my Honda baby boy 99 model has been poorly consuming fuel, so I had it scanned having shown "Check Engine Light". The scann shown the following codes:

P0108
P0420
P0301
P0302
P0300

Kindly help on what to do and how to go about it. I don't want these Mechanics to spoil my car

Your codes are so many I feel you should reset and see which codes come back, a sittuation where a mechanic is diagnosig your vehicle and removing sockets from different sensors will cause multiple errors that will be stored on the ecu/ecm(brainbox)

P0108: manifold pressure circuit high
(Engine will stutter and not rev properly) its located on the intake pic attached.
P0420: catalyst system below threshold bank 1 caused by removed catalyst or leaking exaust. (Car might consume more fuel/ enviromental polution)

P0301,302,300: cylinder misfire on all cylinders (let's just asume all since we already have 3) could be caused by faulty sparkplugs or injectors car will stutter most of the time.

Try and reset the vehicle and rescan after using the car for a day so you don't go fixing problems that don't exist.

davdandam:
Thanks heard transmission is 120k imagine o....will open it up first hope it works

Get a written guarantee.

Best of luck.

expert101: How often should Transmission Oil be changed?

I change at 60,000 miles

drcenti07: Hi Gazzuzz..
Pls I need a headway here
I drive a hyundai xg 30, 3.0l V6 DOHC ..

I have the following issues:
1. Rough idling
2. Very low rpm, sometimes stalling
3. Hesitation on acceleration..but when it eventually picks, it zooms off.
4. Engine surging.

I ran a comprehensive scan on it, and the following codes came out..
P0101, 0106, 0113, 0136, 0141, 0156, 0171, 0175, 0183, 0446..

I have replaced, all spark plugs, coils, maf, fuel pump, fuel filter..

The problem still persist

I am not too sure where the map sensor is... Though I changed one sensor that was attached to d throttle body, I think that's the tps after all, as there was no improvement.

Pls I need your contribution..

Attached is a pic of the sensor I changed..

What kind of throttle body do you use? Is it motorised? If its not you have to check the idle speed valve its always located on the throttle body. More pictures of the throttle body will be more helpful.
Now if your throttle body is motorised, and has been replaced or disconnected recently you might have to recalibrate it if your ecm(brainbox) does not have a re-learning fuction.
As for the codes

P0101: mass airflow meter
0106:map manifold absolute pressure
0113:intake air temp circuit
0136:O2 sensor malfunction bank2 sensor1 bank 2 is near the firewall opposite side of radiator.
0141:O2 heater sensor malfunction bank 1 sensor 2 that's the lower sensor on the radiator side
0156:O2 sensor bank 2 sensor 2 lower side fire wall,
0171:system too lean bank 1(ignore this error when you fix the underlying problem it will go),
0175:system too rich bank 1(also ignore this code,
0183:fuel temp sensor open or short, 0446:evaporation emission control system vent control circuit.

Please reset your codes and re scan your vehicle after using it for a day then let's see which codes show up, do not do any testing with the sockets after resetting as it will store errors.

Modified

Since there's a TPS its not motorised open the other sensor on the pic and have it cleaned that's the idle speed valve.

tornwa: Plz I need SAE 5W 20 engine oil for my car I ve looked for it but don't know where to get it. I will prefer fully synthetic one, thanks.

Close match is mobil1 5W-30 any mobil lube shop has it.

GAZZUZZ:

One or both abs sensors located in the front wheels of you vehicle has been damage...

Thanks for the diagnosis and suggestions, I'll try and get it replaced.

On another note, I recently ordered a D900 OBD II scanner, if I have it, will I be able to use it to identity the faulty sensor by myself and save the cost of the diagnosis?

More grease to your elbows .

Hello Gazzuzz,

Please respond to my question on the previous page regarding fluids for a 2007 Honda accord. Thanks

Hello,

Please my 2008 outlander's engine switches off while in motion especially when moving slow in traffic. mechanic has washed the tank and changed the plugs. problem persists. what can i do cos i have to always restart the car while in motion which is dangerous.

mokikeoj: Hello, I just acquired a 2007 Honda and would like to find out the best fluids for the following:

Engine oil
Power steering fluid
Automatic transmission fluid
Coolant
Brake fluid
Washer fluid

I would also like to find out if it is possible to get the Fluids manufactured by Honda in Nigeria, and if possible, where?

Recommended engine oil 5W-20 fully synthetic

Power steering fluid: (I use any dextronIII if its a top off but using DW1 will be better if its a complete flush you can then use for 3years after that)

Transmission fluid:strictly honda ATF DW1

Brake oil: any good DOT 3 fluid will do.

Washer fluid: (I use morning fresh liquid wash) don't know recommended but that has always worked for me.

Coolant: better to use the 4liter already mixed instead of buying the smaller cans.

Most of these oils you can source from
Luvinhubby www.hondaspares.com.ng (08029255299)

Hello sir,

Do you have a workshop ? I will like to bring my car for inspection, it's a toyota camry 1999 tiny light

Thanks

Hi GAZZUZZ and other car gurus in the house....

Please my 2003 corrolla has been giving me some issues lately...

Previously everything worked fine.. with a silent engine and steam usually coming out of the exhaust when the car is started in the morning..
Few weeks back, I started the car but heard some rattling noise from the engine compartment and then the engine oil light began blinking...

I checked the engine oil gauge, it was okay, I changed my oil about 4 weeks earlier with mobil xp 1000 synthetic.

I called my mechanic who now came and unscrewed the oil filter and then screwed it back, the rattling noise stopped and the engine oil light in the dashboard stopped blinking.
I then tried driving the car but as I was driving a little distance, the noise came back stronger and the engine oil light started blinking again, I managed to drive back home slowly with the noise.
My mechanic then changed my oil and fixed a new oil filter but the noise still persisted. He then told me that the noise could be coming from the timing belt, he requested I buy a new roller chain for the noise to stop.
He opened my engine and removed the timing belt ( roller chain with yellow marking) which came with the vehicle from US, thats the first time the engine has ever been opened.
He took N12,000 from me to buy a new roller chain ( this one had no yellow markings on it).
After fixing it; the rattling noise still persisted.
He then unscrewed the oil filter with the vehicle still on, and screwed it back; he said my oil pump is weak because he expected so much oil with pressure splashing on him in the process but that it wasnt the case as the oil that splashed on him wasnt with so much pressure.
He then took N10,000 from me to buy oil pump, saying it will solve the problem.
After fixing a brand new pump ( according to him), the noise came back stronger with the engine oil light constantly showing on the dashboard.
As it stands now; I'm tired and confused that my once sweet and smooth running car is now heading for the quagmire.
The mechanic seems to have run out of ideas.
I have advised him to put back the original timing belt (roller chain) and the oil pump which the vehicle came with when it arrived Nigeria as I dont think his prognosis so far is successful.

Note; This is the very first time the engine has been opened, and I think the timing belt is supposed to be set correctly after removing and installing it, I'm not sure if he has done this ( please correct me if i'm wrong).

Please kindly help me out to save my car as I'm at cross-roads now, I really dont know what to do again given the steps taken above.

lurvy: Hi GAZZUZZ and other car gurus in the house....

Please my 2003 corrolla has been giving me some issues lately...

Previously everything worked fine.. with a silent engine and steam usually coming out of the exhaust when the car is started in the morning..
Few weeks back, I started the car but heard some rattling noise from the engine compartment and then the engine oil light began blinking...

I checked the engine oil gauge, it was okay, I changed my oil about 4 weeks earlier with mobil xp 1000 synthetic.

I called my mechanic who now came and unscrewed the oil filter and then screwed it back, the rattling noise stopped and the engine oil light in the dashboard stopped blinking.
I then tried driving the car but as I was driving a little distance, the noise came back stronger and the engine oil light started blinking again, I managed to drive back home slowly with the noise.
My mechanic then changed my oil and fixed a new oil filter but the noise still persisted. He then told me that the noise could be coming from the timing belt, he requested I buy a new roller chain for the noise to stop.
He opened my engine and removed the timing belt ( roller chain with yellow marking) which came with the vehicle from US, thats the first time the engine has ever been opened.
He took N12,000 from me to buy a new roller chain ( this one had no yellow markings on it).
After fixing it; the rattling noise still persisted.
He then unscrewed the oil filter with the vehicle still on, and screwed it back; he said my oil pump is weak because he expected so much oil with pressure splashing on him in the process but that it wasnt the case as the oil that splashed on him wasnt with so much pressure.
He then took N10,000 from me to buy oil pump, saying it will solve the problem.
After fixing a brand new pump ( according to him), the noise came back stronger with the engine oil light constantly showing on the dashboard.
As it stands now; I'm tired and confused that my once sweet and smooth running car is now heading for the quagmire.
The mechanic seems to have run out of ideas.
I have advised him to put back the original timing belt (roller chain) and the oil pump which the vehicle came with when it arrived Nigeria as I dont think his prognosis so far is successful.

Note; This is the very first time the engine has been opened, and I think the timing belt is supposed to be set correctly after removing and installing it, I'm not sure if he has done this ( please correct me if i'm wrong).

Please kindly help me out to save my car as I'm at cross-roads now, I really dont know what to do again given the steps taken above.

Please run away from that mechanic before he kills you!. I experienced something like that when I changed my car engine Camry 1999. The reverse gear often makes noise when engaged. My advice is for you to make enquiries of a good mechanic and a gear expert that can diagnose the problem.

GAZZUZZ:

I change at 60,000 miles

Thanks much!

GAZZUZZ:

The vibrations are caused by a faulty idle speed valve if you have clean it and its still not working just have it replaced.

The error code is for a faulty secondary oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2 (heater circuit) I'm guessing your car is a 4 cylinder so its the sensor located on the exhaust pipe after the catalyst, check if the harness is connected properly, if it is have it replaced with a brand new one where I'm from it is 10k tokumbor is 5K. After replacing rest and re scan after running the engine for 30mins.


Best of luck

Thanks boss, would look into it and get back to you about the outcome and yes its a 4 cyl engine

expert101:
Please run away from that mechanic before he kills you!. I experienced something like that when I changed my car engine Camry 1999. The reverse gear often makes noise when engaged. My advice is for you to make enquiries of a good mechanic and a gear expert that can diagnose the problem.

@ Expert101, its not a gear issue, my gear works perfectly without issues.

Its about an annoying rattling noise at the engine compartment causing the engine oil indicator light on the dashboard to blink continously.

Car gurus in the house.... I'm still waiting for your inputs...Please kindly help out....

heryyy: Hello sir,

Do you have a workshop ? I will like to bring my car for inspection, it's a toyota camry 1999 tiny light

Thanks

Contact me on my signature.

lurvy: Hi GAZZUZZ and other car gurus in the house....

Please my 2003 corrolla has been giving me some issues lately...

Previously everything worked fine.. with a silent engine and steam usually coming out of the exhaust when the car is started in the morning..
Few weeks back, I started the car but heard some rattling noise from the engine compartment and then the engine oil light began blinking...

I checked the engine oil gauge, it was okay, I changed my oil about 4 weeks earlier with mobil xp 1000 synthetic.

I called my mechanic who now came and unscrewed the oil filter and then screwed it back, the rattling noise stopped and the engine oil light in the dashboard stopped blinking.
I then tried driving the car but as I was driving a little distance, the noise came back stronger and the engine oil light started blinking again, I managed to drive back home slowly with the noise.
My mechanic then changed my oil and fixed a new oil filter but the noise still persisted. He then told me that the noise could be coming from the timing belt, he requested I buy a new roller chain for the noise to stop.
He opened my engine and removed the timing belt ( roller chain with yellow marking) which came with the vehicle from US, thats the first time the engine has ever been opened.
He took N12,000 from me to buy a new roller chain ( this one had no yellow markings on it).
After fixing it; the rattling noise still persisted.
He then unscrewed the oil filter with the vehicle still on, and screwed it back; he said my oil pump is weak because he expected so much oil with pressure splashing on him in the process but that it wasnt the case as the oil that splashed on him wasnt with so much pressure.
He then took N10,000 from me to buy oil pump, saying it will solve the problem.
After fixing a brand new pump ( according to him), the noise came back stronger with the engine oil light constantly showing on the dashboard.
As it stands now; I'm tired and confused that my once sweet and smooth running car is now heading for the quagmire.
The mechanic seems to have run out of ideas.
I have advised him to put back the original timing belt (roller chain) and the oil pump which the vehicle came with when it arrived Nigeria as I dont think his prognosis so far is successful.

Note; This is the very first time the engine has been opened, and I think the timing belt is supposed to be set correctly after removing and installing it, I'm not sure if he has done this ( please correct me if i'm wrong).

Please kindly help me out to save my car as I'm at cross-roads now, I really dont know what to do again given the steps taken above.

Will get back to you within the hour.

Modified


The rattling noise you are hearing is most likely coming from the head (top cylinder) you camshaft and vvti are being starved of oil, this could be caused by a bad oil control valve or a clogged oil control valve strainer(filter). I will post pictures of the ocv and strainer. Have them checked out and strainer cleaned.

@Gazuzz, please the check engine has been on my toyota sienna 2006 and whenever they scan it goes off, after driving some miles it comes up again, kindly assist and please what is your phone number?