The car is year 2000 wagon and engine size is
2.0. CVT transmission.

I recently changed the flywhweel and torgue
converter of the car. But the mechanic
ignorantly and forcefully cut out the two wires
on the connector on dropping resistor on the
transmission when he separated engine from
transmission during the repair work. The
connector got stuck together and we had to
remove the connector and join the wires only.
The car now drives without selecting the gears.
Engine revs at 2200RPM for car speed of
60/70km/h as against 1800RPM for car speed
of 90/100km/h before we did the flywheel/
converter replacement. Now when the CVT
transmission changes from high gear to low it
also immediately goes back to high gear. It will
also attempt to change again but immediately, in less than two seconds, goes back to high gear. This can be observed by the engine rpm going
down and up again immediately and accompanied with a minor jerk rather staying
down for higher speeds. Please what can be done now?

We have drained the transmission oil two
times and cleaned the magnetic filters and
refill but there still no improvement. The
transmission oil is still light red and clean for I
changed around six months ago and the car
has covered less than 1500km.
But please is there any special information on
how to place the magnetic filters on the cover
of the transmission? Or do they need a replacement?

Please, can driving the car in this state spoil the transmission? I asked because I realized that the car can still accelerate to high speed (100, 120, 130 km/h, etc) in this state.

Your comments are highly appreciated.

Before you start adopting the same trial by error used by road side mechanics just go scan that ride first and come back here to post fault codes. From the description of your story am looking at your quack mechanic destroyed your turbine speed sensor and its connector. And if you feel you are too big to run a scan go get another complete transmission. Some car owners still believe in trial by error though

mayor2013:
Before you start adopting the same trial by error used by road side mechanics just go scan that ride first and come back here to post fault codes. From the description of your story am looking at your quack mechanic destroyed your turbine speed sensor and its connector. And if you feel you are too big to run a scan go get another complete transmission. Some car owners still believe in trial by error though

Thanks. I actually ran a scan before the connector wires were reconnected and got P0745.
That time the car was driving with a lot of difficulties and the "sport" mode was unusually flashing on the dashboard.

The part number of the dropping resistor is
31037-8E002. But the connector that was conmected to a metal on the resistor was eventually removed before we could reconnect the wires back. After the wires were connected the car drives better, the "sport" mode flashing stopped and the code went away. The only issue left is what I brought up here. No codes left after I re-scanned it.

pragmatistm:
The car is year 2000 wagon and engine size is
2.0. CVT transmission.

I recently changed the flywhweel and torque
converter of the car. But the mechanic
ignorantly and forcefully cut out the two wires
on the connector on dropping resistor on the
transmission when he separated engine from
transmission during the repair work. The
connector got stuck together and we had to
remove the connector and join the wires only.
The car now drives without selecting the gears.
Engine revs at 2200RPM for car speed of
60/70km/h as against 1800RPM for car speed
of 90/100km/h before we did the flywheel/
converter replacement. Now when the CVT
transmission changes from high gear to low it
also immediately goes back to high gear. It will
also attempt to change again but immediately, in less than two seconds, goes back to high gear. This can be observed by the engine rpm going
down and up again immediately and accompanied with a minor jerk rather staying
down for higher speeds. Please what can be done now?

We have drained the transmission oil two
times and cleaned the magnetic filters and
refill but there still no improvement. The
transmission oil is still light red and clean for I
changed around six months ago and the car
has covered less than 1500km.
But please is there any special information on
how to place the magnetic filters on the cover
of the transmission? Or do they need a replacement?

Please, can driving the car in this state spoil the transmission? I asked because I realized that the car can still accelerate to high speed (100, 120, 130 km/h, etc) in this state.

Your comments are highly appreciated.

If you have no codes, go back to the drawing board, check bolded.

GAZZUZZ:


If you have no codes, go back to the drawing board, check bolded.

You scared me. Are you saying the torque converter might be bad?

pragmatistm:
You scared me. Are you saying the torque converter might be bad?

Yep, since its not brand new.

Oh dear! Bros Pragmatism I really feel you especially considering what you went through in your previous thread. Nissan's CVT issues are well known, especially in the Murano brand.

Sorry, I don't have a solution to the issue other than to give, well. . . moral support and hope it gets fixed considering the fact it was working perfectly before you changed your flywheel. I drive the p11=144 myself (over 3yesrs now) and testify to what a rugged ride it is. All th best!

plendil:
Oh dear! Bros Pragmatism I really feel you especially considering what you went through in your previous thread. Nissan's CVT issues are well known, especially in the Murano brand.

Sorry, I don't have a solution to the issue other than to give, well. . . moral support and hope it gets fixed considering the fact it was working perfectly before you changed your flywheel. I drive the p11=144 myself (over 3yesrs now) and testify to what a rugged ride it is. All th best!

Ok. Thanks.

Was the flywheel tested by a machine to see if its not bent. Its difficult to tell with the eyes.

pragmatistm:
The car is year 2000 wagon and engine size is
2.0. CVT transmission.

I recently changed the flywhweel and torgue
converter of the car. But the mechanic
ignorantly and forcefully cut out the two wires
on the connector on dropping resistor on the
transmission when he separated engine from
transmission during the repair work. The
connector got stuck together and we had to
remove the connector and join the wires only.
The car now drives without selecting the gears.
Engine revs at 2200RPM for car speed of
60/70km/h as against 1800RPM for car speed
of 90/100km/h before we did the flywheel/
converter replacement. Now when the CVT
transmission changes from high gear to low it
also immediately goes back to high gear. It will
also attempt to change again but immediately, in less than two seconds, goes back to high gear. This can be observed by the engine rpm going
down and up again immediately and accompanied with a minor jerk rather staying
down for higher speeds. Please what can be done now?

We have drained the transmission oil two
times and cleaned the magnetic filters and
refill but there still no improvement. The
transmission oil is still light red and clean for I
changed around six months ago and the car
has covered less than 1500km.
But please is there any special information on
how to place the magnetic filters on the cover
of the transmission? Or do they need a replacement?

Please, can driving the car in this state spoil the transmission? I asked because I realized that the car can still accelerate to high speed (100, 120, 130 km/h, etc) in this state.

Your comments are highly appreciated.

what made you change the flywheel and the torque converter ?

yes the gearbox will get damaged if driven in one gear

OP is just getting unnecessarily desperate and alarmist. He has not satisfactory resolved the dropping resistor issue which locked up the car to avoid damage to the transmission. Just because there are no corresponding codes and the car has been released from the lockup, he thinks his mending of wires on the resistor is enough. He now gets jittery when doubts have been raised on the flywheel and torque converter. . My advice is for you to replace the resistor with one with complete connector heads. Check also around the resistor area to see that you have not tampered with the connections of the primary speed (rev) sensor. Of course, the transmission is heading for damage if left in its present state.

Costee:
OP is just getting unnecessarily desperate and alarmist. He has not satisfactory resolved the dropping resistor issue which locked up the car to avoid damage to the transmission. Just because there are no corresponding codes and the car has been released from the lockup, he thinks his mending of wires on the resistor is enough. He now gets jittery when doubts have been raised on the flywheel and torque converter. . My advice is for you to replace the resistor with one with complete connector heads. Check also around the resistor area to see that you have not tampered with the connections of the primary speed (rev) sensor. Of course, the transmission is heading for damage if left in its present state.

@ Costeeeee, my oga at the top. I knew you must see this new thread and refer me back to the previous.

But I want you to note that I didn't completely brush aside your suggestion in the previous thread. Im already planning on how to replace the dropping resistor but the mechanic does not want to travel to ladipo lagos because of only that component. I put up this thread to allow others to help me explore all angles to nail the issue.

People, my car did a surprising thing yesterday. It behaved as usual but suddenly selected properly and the car moved well.
This morning, it got worse. The engine RPM was going to 3000 but car speed still around 20km/h. The SES light came on and I scanned immediately. I obtained P0325 and P1777. I saw the code P0325 Possible causes as

- Faulty knock sensor
- Knock sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Knock sensor harness is open or shorted
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

and the P1777 Possible causes as
- Step Motor harness is open or shorted
- Step Motor poor electrical connection
- Faulty Step Motor

Please what should be checked this time.

pragmatistm:
People, my car did a surprising thing yesterday. It behaved as usual but suddenly selected properly and the car moved well.
This morning, it got worse. The engine RPM was going to 3000 but car speed still around 20km/h. The SES light came on and I scanned immediately. I obtained P0325 and P1777. I saw the code P0325 Possible causes as

- Faulty knock sensor
- Knock sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Knock sensor harness is open or shorted
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

and the P1777 Possible causes as
- Step Motor harness is open or shorted
- Step Motor poor electrical connection
- Faulty Step Motor

Please what should be checked this time.

I had adverted to the step motor in your former thread; apprently you took little notice. Here's what I wrote: "it could be the result of excessive dirt and debris obstucting proper flow through the solenoid. The recent work may have led to a recycle of debris-ladden oil hitherto at the bottom of the pan. I had a recent experience with the step motor, which also is apart of the valve body. The car just wouldn't move. Even after draining and replacing the transmission oil and thoroughly cleaning the oil pan and filter there was no improvement. I had given up hope when suddengly two days after I tried the car and after convulsing terribly returned to normalcy. (Miracle?) I think what happened was that new oil eventally forced its way past the dirty step motor during that convulsive process."
The step motor is one part you not likely to find. So I wish for you that the issue is connected to the unresolved one of your dropping resistor. I say that because if you had pulled P1778, then you'd have had to change your transmission. Does your cvt light blink when you put the ignition on? If so, it blinks 16 times before it goes off. I'd still suggest a good resistor is installed. But if the trouble is getting intolerable, might as well change the transmission.

Costee:

I had adverted to the step motor in your former thread; apprently you took little notice. Here's what I wrote: "it could be the result of excessive dirt and debris obstucting proper flow through the solenoid. The recent work may have led to a recycle of debris-ladden oil hitherto at the bottom of the pan. I had a recent experience with the step motor, which also is apart of the valve body. The car just wouldn't move. Even after draining and replacing the transmission oil and thoroughly cleaning the oil pan and filter there was no improvement. I had given up hope when suddengly two days after I tried the car and after convulsing terribly returned to normalcy. (Miracle?) I think what happened was that new oil eventally forced its way past the dirty step motor during that convulsive process."
The step motor is one part you not likely to find. So I wish for you that the issue is connected to the unresolved one of your dropping resistor. I say that because if you had pulled P1778, then you'd have had to change your transmission. Does your cvt light blink when you put the ignition on? If so, it blinks 16 times before it goes off. I'd still suggest a good resistor is installed. But if the trouble is getting intolerable, might as well change the transmission.

Thanks Costee. I saw that previous post of yours and the content. To your question on CVT blinking. Yes, The sport light blinks now for few times. Though I didn't count but it will be like six times.

Did you say I cant find the stepper motor in Ladipo, lagos? Please where is the stepper motor located on the engine?

***Modified
I just counted the blinking. It blinks 16 times. I will definitely get another dropping resistor as you suggested.

pragmatistm:

Did you say I cant find the stepper motor in Ladipo, lagos? Please where is the stepper motor located on the engine?

The step motor is a part of the valve body. (I don't want to go so far as to suggest that you tampered with connections in there when you were draining the oil.) Most sellers won't want to sell as a separate unit because it's an integral part of the transmission. Send your email to this number:08179381094, and I'll forward the picture to you. It should assist your mechanic to locate it should it be necessary.

pragmatistm:

- Faulty knock sensor
- Knock sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Knock sensor harness is open or shorted
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

Stop ignoring the knock sensor issue, and I hope you have not fried ur ecm cause its boldy written faulty engine control module.

GAZZUZZ:


Stop ignoring the knock sensor issue, and I hope you have not fried ur ecm cause its boldy written faulty engine control module.

I beg, do you think there could be issues with the ECM?
I think the knock sensor code is due to some shaking/vibrations produced in the morning after starting.

pragmatistm:
People, my car did a surprising thing yesterday. It behaved as usual but suddenly selected properly and the car moved well.
This morning, it got worse. The engine RPM was going to 3000 but car speed still around 20km/h. The SES light came on and I scanned immediately. I obtained P0325 and P1777. I saw the code P0325 Possible causes as

- Faulty knock sensor
- Knock sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Knock sensor harness is open or shorted
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

and the P1777 Possible causes as
- Step Motor harness is open or shorted
- Step Motor poor electrical connection
- Faulty Step Motor

Please what should be checked this time.

I see its under possible causes so ur safe.

People, I changed the dropping resistor but no improvement. When started, CVT light flashed sometimes, sometimes it does not. Car drags as before and engine rpm rising with increasing noise. Codes P0325 and P1777 still remain. Help me on what to do.

No comments. Na wa oo.

Still no comments. Na wa oo.

Take that ride to a tech workshop and fix the rest of the issue there

mayor2013:
Take that ride to a tech workshop and fix the rest of the issue there

Ah, Mayor, thanks. But I cant drive it out again unless I want to spoil the transmission totally.


Someone has suggested that I change the step motor that its the bone of contention. And that's what I think may solve the issue. But I still need your experienced comments before I embark on any step.

If u are getting a code for step motor den u need to carefully take a look at it. U can call a tech person to come check it 4 u

mayor2013:
If u are getting a code for step motor den u need to carefully take a look at it. U can call a tech person to come check it 4 u

Ok.Mayor, Im still working hard on it.