obicentlis:
Update: After waiting for the scanner I ordered from konga.com over a week without any sign of them, I had to change the transmission after changing the atf.
But my present worry is the atf leaking. After changing the gear box, I tried to test the car on the highway, on speed of 80km , I noticed something like smoke coming out of the bonnet. I stopped and saw fire on the exhaust pipe as a result of atf leakage. Almost all the atf used was on the ground. I really don't understand what is the problem . Please , what could cause the leakage and what can I do, I'm kinda frustrated.

sultaan:


So changing the transmission was easier than trying Dex vi.

It is better to start things the easy way but changing the gear was expensive and the result will be unreliable so you might be lighter financially and in a worse position

obicentlis:

What is your message now on how to forward?

nissparts:


The "why not" has already been posted in this thread.

lomomike:


I'm reading a 99 toyota owners manual, it never mentioned dextron iii, it however mentioned “genuine toyota type T-IV“ ATF oil.

The type T-IV was stopped in 06 and a new ATF oil started in 07 which is toyota WS ATF. The "WS" means "World Standard"

nurey:


If it is an online manual, it has been reviewed, on the dip stick it is Dextron III clearly imprinted, abi you want me to get a snap shot to prove it.

lomomike:


I'm reading a 99 toyota owners manual, it never mentioned dextron iii, it however mentioned “genuine toyota type T-IV“ ATF oil.

The type T-IV was stopped in 06 and a new ATF oil started in 07 which is toyota WS ATF. The "WS" means "World Standard"

nurey:


My family friend using a sienna 2001 also had this same problem of ATF leak after gear change and the quack mecho said it could be the bolt under and kept on collecting money better look for a better mechanic to help you before that car is turned to scrap.

lomomike:


Chief, my lexus and my toyota hl says dextron iii, but in the car manual issued along with the car, it stated Type T-IV. Even folks in www.clublexus.com and www.toyotanation.com will vouch for type t-iv

senator2k9:
1. Bolt at gearbox bottom plate wasn't properly tied, 2. The gasket or blackgum used wasn't properly applied. Start s car pull d parking brakes , put wedge, put in on drive and go under d car, u wil surely see where d leakage is Coming from.
3. Sometimes leakage comes through the dipstick if not properly closed . Thanks

obicentlis:

(1) 02 sensor heater circuit, bank sensor 1
(2) Transmission fluid temperature sensor A circuit.

(3) 02 sensor heater circuit , bank 1, sensor 1.

obicentlis:
I called mechanic that changed the gear, he noticed that the shaft wasn't properly fixed and the atf was over gauged. He fixed the issue.


The vehicle doesn't accelerate well when I drive towards a hilly area, it will start overheating and vibrating. And it starts consuming a lot of fuel.

Now,I bought scanner. The results are:
(1) 02 sensor heater circuit, bank sensor 1
(2) Transmission fluid temperature sensor A circuit.

(3) 02 sensor heater circuit , bank 1, sensor 1.



My ever ready auto experts on NL. please analyse these things and tell me what to do.
Thanks as I await your suggestions and directions.

DECOtech:
Nissparts and Nurey, when it comes to Toyota ATF, there can be some confusion on what to use, especially for older models. Older manuals will recommend transmission fluids that have been discontinued. Toyota ATF Type T-IV is the most current generation of discontinued types T, T-II and T-III and a toyota specific product. It replaces these for use in older model Toyota. Continue to have your transmission flushed at the interval recommended by your owner's manual even if the transmission fluid claims to never need changing. Cues that there might be an ATF problem are low fluid levels, thickening, discolouration or a burnt smell. All of which can determined with the ATF dipstick.

obicentlis:
I called mechanic that changed the gear, he noticed that the shaft wasn't properly fixed and the atf was over gauged. He fixed the issue.


The vehicle doesn't accelerate well when I drive towards a hilly area, it will start overheating and vibrating. And it starts consuming a lot of fuel.

Now,I bought scanner. The results are:
(1) 02 sensor heater circuit, bank sensor 1
(2) Transmission fluid temperature sensor A circuit.

(3) 02 sensor heater circuit , bank 1, sensor 1.


My ever ready auto experts on NL. please analyse these things and tell me what to do.
Thanks as I await your suggestions and directions.

GAZZUZZ:
This thread is derailed.

GAZZUZZ:
This thread is derailed.

obicentlis:

I tire ooo

ACOgp:
@Decotech I come in with a different complain and believe you will help me on what to do. I stay in ph.
I have transmission issue with my 2009 toyota camry SE 4-cyl 2.4 lit. If I start the car, it will move normal for some period of time. But once the engine is very hot on normal condition of movement ,it will refuse to select gears and decide the one to stay on. it can go down to lower gear and gradually starts to drag to stop. At that point it will not enter gear again if u want to off and on it. my sensor indicators there is a problem on engine check.
Went for a comprehensive scan and they said my transmission has gone bad. took out the oil and filter and they are very dirty with carbon smell. they now confirmed their scan. They made me to understand that my U250E(13-pin auto) transmission is always very sensitive and cannot be repaired. I was advised to replace with another one.
I made inquiries abt dat and the price is high up to N165 -180K. And I have told them my condition of the business transaction for the transmission. if my car at less than 60kilomiles can suddenly go bad, it means what their to sell to me might as well go bad in a shot interval. Any one am buying from will only be paid after 2weeks of distance journey to confirm it.
Now the question is, Is there any other thing i could try in repairing the transmission since the replacement option is not coming fast?.
Secondly, if u're in my shoes, wot will be ur next line of action?.
Sorry for bothering u Sir but will appreciate ur help.

DECOtech:


Hello sir, I have read through your message and I have few questions to ask.
1. What kind of scanner was used?
2. What codes did the scanner give throw out?
3. When last did you service your transmission?
4. What sepc and brand of transmission oil did you use?

I think you used a wrong ATF, one with a low boiling point which starts to boil and bubble as soon as your transmission gains some degree of heat and this can cause serious damage on you transmission. Another possible cause could be that
your ATF cooler might have been bypassed which would result in the over heating of your transmission.

I don't know any parts dealer that will give you his ware and allow you to pay after 2 weeks. At most, you will have one week guarantee in which you are allowed to return it in a case the transmission fails to work as expected. Other conditions include the dealer recommending a mech to do the installation. Besides, the vehicle you are talking about is not know for transmission problem.

For now, I will advise you replace your transmission fluid with the right one (Toyota Type WS) for your vehicle and check if the transmission oil cooler is intact and see if it works. From ur result, I can then know what final advise to give to you.

Better still, just go for another transmission cos I have personally stopped rebuilding transmissions.

You can add me on whatsapp with 08030938491 or bbm with 330FC751 to allow a much faster flow of communication between you and I. I'm very interested in this case.

It is well.
Good bless you sir.

GAZZUZZ:

ACOgp:
Ok Sir.
However, for your questiuons non stands cos I 've not worked on the transmission b4 now. only open the bottom to access the filter and see more of the oil nature.
As for the car transmission service, non have ever been done cos the car was bought new. didn't see it neccessary doing anything there b4 now.
No shortage of transmission oil and no complain from that angle b4 now. like i earlier stated the car is around 60kilomiles and was bought 2010 from USA after using it for awhile there to avoid their export duty stuff and register it as used car taken to 9ja. Am talking of one uswer stuff here Sir.
The scanner stuff was done in three different offices cos I wanted to be very sure of direction they point at in my car. Opening of the bottom was done to see the dirties from the oil and filter. We eneded it there based on their advise on not wasting time reparing rather replace to have peace.
Well i will call u soon to discuse better.

chukel:
Op, sorry to say this. U have not seen anything. This is just the beginning. U obviously don't need advice here. Better go and carry ur previous transmission and keep if u have not done that. U will eventually revert to dat if u don sell that car out of frustration. Gazzuz advised u check ur knock sensors which u obviously dint do. Goodluck

sultaan:


Means the wires to the o2 sensor on driver side is frayed or cut so its probably burnt the o2 heater fuse check the thread by pyke and you will see an example

DECOtech:


When to Replace Your Automatic Transmission
Fluid
The Toyota Maintenance Guide for the four-cylinder Camry 5SFE engine says to inspect the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) every 30,000 miles. It doesn't say when or whether to replace the fluid, but in general, mechanics recommend a simple "drain-and-fill" every 30,000 miles. With most. automatic transmissions, ATF operating at or below 175 degrees F should last close to 100,000 miles. But for every 20-degree increase in temperature, ATF fluid life is cut in half. Cars can reach temperatures of 210 degrees or more during towing or stop-and-go summer driving. Fully synthetic ATF can withstand approximately 225 degrees before thermal breakdown.

When ATF breaks down, it "cooks," or oxidizes, losing its detergent and lubricating properties. It turns from bright red to brown or black, and has a burnt smell. Oxidized ATF can cause buildup of varnish and sludge.

Draining and Replacing the ATF
An ATF drain-and-fill is similar to a motor oil change, except there is no paper filter element to replace, and not all the fluid is drained. There is an internal metal mesh filter within the transmission drain cover, but it does not have as fine a mesh as an oil filter, and rarely requires replacement. The
drain plug is a 10-mm indented hex bolt requiring a hex socket. You add the new transmission fluid by removing the fluid level dipstick, and inserting a narrow-mouthed funnel into the dip stick tube. Approximately 2.6 quarts of fluid can be drained from the transmission oil pan, and replaced via the dipstick. Considerable fluid will remain in the transmission's torque converter, the transmission oil lines, and the radiator. If the fluid is dark red and has not turned brown, it’s okay to mix old and new fluid without flushing. But if the fluid is brown or black, a complete flush of the system would be in order. This would require about four additional quarts of oil.

How Flushing the ATF Works
The purpose of a 'flush' is to pump out as much as possible of the old oxidized ATF fluid out of the transmission and fluid lines. The engine's hydraulic pressure pumps new ATF through the system to push out an additional 4 quarts of trapped ATF. Before doing a flush, perform a drain-and-fill and drive the car for a few days. The new fluid's detergent additives will dissolve harmful deposits from transmission components. Once these deposits are broken down and suspended in the fluid, a flush will remove them. Even after doing a complete flush of an old, high-mileage Camry, you can expect the ATF to turn dark again within six months. At that time you can do a simple drain-and-fill or repeat the flush. The fluid should now stay red much longer.

obicentlis:

My brother, I ordered for the scanner so that I can scan it but it took konga upto 2weeks to deliver and I showed mechanics the picture he sent but the couldn't find anything.

ACOgp:
Good information brother just dat am afred the transmission might gone very bad and ther might not be need for this procedures at this point. However we will look at it very well before replacement.
Thanks for ur contributions so far.

obicentlis:

My brother, I ordered for the scanner so that I can scan it but it took konga upto 2weeks to deliver and I showed mechanics the picture he sent but the couldn't find anything.

GAZZUZZ:


Without a scan you replaced a functional transsmission.

I GIVE UP!

chukel:
they couldnt find it cis it was not there. it was not put back while replacing ur top. or they dont even kn what it is. u wont see it cos its buried in the engine. what u will see is just the connector.

DECOtech:


When to Replace Your Automatic Transmission
Fluid
The Toyota Maintenance Guide for the four-cylinder Camry 5SFE engine says to inspect the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) every 30,000 miles. It doesn't say when or whether to replace the fluid, but in general, mechanics recommend a simple "drain-and-fill" every 30,000 miles. With most. automatic transmissions, ATF operating at or below 175 degrees F should last close to 100,000 miles. But for every 20-degree increase in temperature, ATF fluid life is cut in half. Cars can reach temperatures of 210 degrees or more during towing or stop-and-go summer driving. Fully synthetic ATF can withstand approximately 225 degrees before thermal breakdown.

When ATF breaks down, it "cooks," or oxidizes, losing its detergent and lubricating properties. It turns from bright red to brown or black, and has a burnt smell. Oxidized ATF can cause buildup of varnish and sludge.

Draining and Replacing the ATF
An ATF drain-and-fill is similar to a motor oil change, except there is no paper filter element to replace, and not all the fluid is drained. There is an internal metal mesh filter within the transmission drain cover, but it does not have as fine a mesh as an oil filter, and rarely requires replacement. The
drain plug is a 10-mm indented hex bolt requiring a hex socket. You add the new transmission fluid by removing the fluid level dipstick, and inserting a narrow-mouthed funnel into the dip stick tube. Approximately 2.6 quarts of fluid can be drained from the transmission oil pan, and replaced via the dipstick. Considerable fluid will remain in the transmission's torque converter, the transmission oil lines, and the radiator. If the fluid is dark red and has not turned brown, it’s okay to mix old and new fluid without flushing. But if the fluid is brown or black, a complete flush of the system would be in order. This would require about four additional quarts of oil.

How Flushing the ATF Works
The purpose of a 'flush' is to pump out as much as possible of the old oxidized ATF fluid out of the transmission and fluid lines. The engine's hydraulic pressure pumps new ATF through the system to push out an additional 4 quarts of trapped ATF. Before doing a flush, perform a drain-and-fill and drive the car for a few days. The new fluid's detergent additives will dissolve harmful deposits from transmission components. Once these deposits are broken down and suspended in the fluid, a flush will remove them. Even after doing a complete flush of an old, high-mileage Camry, you can expect the ATF to turn dark again within six months. At that time you can do a simple drain-and-fill or repeat the flush. The fluid should now stay red much longer.