The road — Obalende Road — that leads to Dodan Barracks, Ikoyi in Lagos State was paved with ‘gold.’ The stench of the liquid dry gold of urine filled the air leaving a bitter, acidic taste in passers-by’s mouth.
At 7:30am, street urchins gathered in groups smoking hemp. Residents, who were around when Dodan Barracks was the seat of power, said with the relocation of the seat of government to Abuja, a lot of things have changed — not for the better — in the neighbourhood.
A relic of coups and counter-coups, the military base occupies a large area located off Awolowo Road, Lagos.

It was the residence of the heads of state of various military governments in the country and also the Supreme Military Headquarters from 1966 until the move to Abuja in 1991.

Mr. Gbenga Jacobs, an Obalende resident who appeared to be in his 60s, told SUNDAY PUNCH that being the immediate neighbours of the military seat of power afforded residents peace of mind and privilege
of hobnobbing with soldiers. According to him, residents once enjoyed camaraderie with soldiers.
“Except during coups, we had no cause for fear. You see all these gutters, when there were coups, the soldiers would hide inside them; they also laid ambush in the cemetery. During the time heads of state lived in Dodan Barracks, we did not have problems with criminals. But
things have changed. The barracks and the soldiers have also changed.

Before now, we had unhindered access into the barracks to polish shoes for soldiers when we were young. We went there to watch films. We had very cordial relationships with the soldiers — we could go to the senior officers’ mess without fear. I think that’s impossible for teenagers to do today.
“Not only has the relationship between civilians and the military suffered, the playing fields in the barracks have been overtaken by various buildings in the barracks — great fields that we used to play in when we were young. Let me just say that the beauty of Dodan Barracks is gone. At that time, there was discipline; you don’t see soldiers anyhow on the streets. Today, they have become like policemen,” Jacobs said.
Mr. Sabiu Durojaiye, also in his 60s, expressed similar nostalgia. “When we were teenagers, we had the opportunity to go to the officers’ mess. Sometimes we went there to polish their shoes or to play. We entered the place freely. But today, we can hardly have access to it. We used to enter the barracks to pick fruits from the trees. You can hardly see any tree there today. Even during the Nigerian Civil War, we still had a great time with the soldiers,” Durojaiye said.
For Mr. Abiodun Goodluck, in his late 40s, who lives close to the barracks, recalling the glorious era of the military base, a smile formed on his face. He spoke about peace, the security, adequate social amenities and civilian-soldier relationship in the neighbourhood of
Obalende.
Goodluck said, “From the time of Yakubu Gowon to Ibrahim Babangida, we had everything in terms of adequate power and water supply. Security was fantastic. Criminals could hardly operate in this area. I
remember the time Gowon was getting married. I was there. My mother took me to Gowon’s wedding party. Life was great around here. I could remember that Obalende had the best suya (barbeque) in Nigeria. I
remember fun spots like City Fellow, Last Bus Stop, Aunty, Iya Moji and Iya Paul, just opposite Dodan Barracks.
“When the seat of power was moved away from here, all the good things including the cordial relationship we once had with the soldiers disappeared too. Security has worsened. People now litter everywhere with refuse. The barracks is living on its former glory. We were able to play with children of the leaders of the country then. Life was free and peaceful between us in the neighbourhood and the soldiers in the barracks.”
Having spent 27 years in Obalende, close to the garrison, Umaru Yusuf, a tailor, could only shake his head in disappointment, saying many things have changed for the worse.
“Many things have changed. I know because I have lived long in this area to see the various changes that have occurred. Is it electricity or water supply? Sometimes, we don’t have electricity for a week. It was
not like this when the seat of power was here. We don’t enjoy the security the barracks once provided. Many things have changed. You can’t even enter the barracks as you like,” Yusuf, in his late 40s, told our correspondent.
What Mr. Kayode Fajumobi, in his 60s, miss most about the military base when it served as the seat of government, he said, is the comradeship between the military and the civilians.
“I miss the mutual interaction. To be candid, the relationship between civilian residents in this neighbourhood and the soldiers was very cordial.
However, it turned sour when the capital was moved to Abuja. Today, as a civilian, you can’t enter the barracks anyhow. In the past, a lot of us had access to the barracks without fear or intimidation.
“We used to pass through the barracks to Ikoyi Road — many students passed through there. Today, many of the gates of the barracks are shut. No more playing fields. It is also regrettable that during the glorious days of Dodan Barracks, the military forbade having storey
buildings constructed in this area. That has really affected this area economically,” Fajumobi recalled.
For Tony Adama, the barracks remains a source of security in the area.
He said his neighbourhood along Obalende Road have not had any big challenge with insecurity.
“I remember that barracks was a source and is still a source of protection for this area. Today, it is not easy to enter the barracks as one likes. I think that is a big change,” Adama noted.
Inside the barracks is the old State House. Attempts made by our correspondent to enter the premises were rebuffed by security operatives at its main gate. A man in mufti, who identified himself as Mr. Samuel, told SUNDAY PUNCH that he was in charge of the State
House and he would not permit our correspondent to enter the premises without first getting approval from the Abuja State House.
“I am not convinced by your explanation; besides, you will have to get permission in the form of a letter granting you the approval to gain entry into this place. Please don’t make any further attempt to enter
this place. You are advised to turn back from here. There is nothing special about this place that you want to work about. It has no relationship with the elections,” Samuel said.
Dodan Barracks was one of the bases of a group of army majors who attempted a coup against the civilian government in January 1966. Maj.-Gen. Johnson Aguiyi-Ironsi seized power after an attempted coup and
became the Head of State.
In July 1966, Dodan Barracks became the seat of power in Nigeria after a counter-coup in which Ironsi was murdered and his Chief of Staff, Gen. Gowon became the Head of State, moving into the Federal Guard
Officer’s Mess. It was there that Gowon received the formal surrender of Biafra at the end of the Nigerian Civil War (Biafran War) in January 1970. The barracks was also where a meeting was held in April 1978 between the then-United States President Jimmy Carter and former military Head of State, Gen. Olusegun Obasanjo.
The last occupant, General Ibrahim Babangida, left the old State House shortly after the April 1990 coup attempt by Major Gideon Orkar.

NOTHING IN LIFE IS PERMANENT.... SENATOR AMARA

Thats where the people that destroyed Nigeria initially operated from. Times changed, they became digitalized and more sophisticated, so had to move to Abuja to continue the looting and rapiing of their mother(land)

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The barracks should be well taken care of, it's a state house.

No problem

This place had 24hrs power supply, running water, power good o

I remember when we were here back then as kids.It was all intriguing but same time filled with fun.