Please come back on June 1, 2017
Includes Nissan and Infiniti Coverage

AutoElectNG:
Please come back on June 1, 2017
Includes Nissan and Infiniti Coverage

Oga autoelect, June 1 na yesterday. Abi you don change mind?

feelme3:


Oga autoelect, June 1 na yesterday. Abi you don change mind?

Posted on similar thread for Honda.

I have yet to post on a Nissan, because no one has brought a Nissan issue for attention except one guy who emailed me and I will post his problem and the fix as time permits.

Meanwhile I have over 5 Honda problems.

If the Nissans come, I will attend to them.

Ask and I will answer.

First 10 Nissans will get recommendations free of charge aka free to play. All subsequent comers will be pay to play.

I prefer the kind of issues that other techs are having problems solving, those are the challenges I love to tackle.

OK boss.
Mine is 97 maxima. Recently car started overheating when I have AC on for like 30mins and it's even worse in traffic. Then all of a sudden it's blowing hot air and airbag light came on blinking and has remained.

Also notice that car drags when I throttled down, like its got an added load on the engine (without the AC on).

feelme3:
OK boss.
Mine is 97 maxima. Recently car started overheating when I have AC on for like 30mins and it's even worse in traffic. Then all of a sudden it's blowing hot air and airbag light came on blinking and has remained.

Also notice that car drags when I throttled down, like its got an added load on the engine (without the AC on).

Using a cause and effect principle.

What happened before recently....

Scan and post the codes here.

Full vehicle service history prior to this development is crucial to finding a lasting remedy.

I have an idea what is wrong, but I need to know from you what has gone wrong also.

In other words, a fact check/reality check on what is peculiar to this ride that might be responsible for this condition viz a viz what ought to be.

AutoElectNG:



Ask and I will answer.

First 10 Nissans will get recommendations free of charge aka free to play. All subsequent comers will be pay to play.

do u mean to aks questions here on nairaland,we will have to pay u

as in,pay u money on a forum u joined for free

I don't get it...my comprehension skills isn't sharp.

help me out

diportivo:



do u mean to aks questions here on nairaland,we will have to pay u

as in,pay u money on a forum u joined for free

I don't get it...my comprehension skills isn't sharp.

help me out

The question will be answered sooner or later.

Whether it is the question that is paid for or something else.

You are not going away anyway soon, so stay tuned.

Somethings you get free, somethings you don't. What I will not give free after the first 10 will be apparent sooner or later.

The forum is free to join, no doubt about it.

What is not acquired freely is the knowledge, the tools and the skills, the access to continuously updated repair databases and manufacturer information and the continuing education to stay current with automotive technology, those cost a fortune, and that is the difference I bring to the table, that the kazeem next door does not.

Plus the ability to directly contact the manufacturer tech helplines for resolution when everything else is tried the problem remains - with all them manufacturers, it is pay to play, not free to pay, and that payment does not stop with the purchase of the car, it continues for as long as you need access to technical documentation, and each vehicle is different, in much the same way, some issues can never be resolved without access to manufacturer technical documentation, which does not come free to play!


By the way, I used to love those square 740 and 760 Volvos. Sadly they don't make them anymore. I will most definitely make a Volvo part of my fleet sometime.

AutoElectNG:


The question will be answered sooner or later.

Whether it is the question that is paid for or something else.

You are not going away anyway soon, so stay tuned.

Somethings you get free, somethings you don't. What I will not give free after the first 10 will be apparent sooner or later.

The forum is free to join, no doubt about it.

What is not acquired freely is the knowledge, the tools and the skills, the access to continuously updated repair databases and manufacturer information and the continuing education to stay current with automotive technology, those cost a fortune, and that is the difference I bring to the table, that the kazeem next door does not.


By the way, I used to love those square 740 and 760 Volvos. Sadly they don't make them anymore. I will most definitely make a Volvo part of my fleet sometime.

let me use my seat belt then

this journey will be long.....or maybe it wont

diportivo:




let me use my seat belt then

this journey will be long.....or maybe it wont

Two examples to buttress my point

1. Helped a carowner with strong DIY skills pass emission testing in Sweden
- https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions

2. Helped fix a Honda whose tech spent a whole day fooling around
- https://www.nairaland.com/996664/maintenance-tips-honda-cars/104#54766412

Both issues were resolved sight unseen

Cars have become too complex to repair without some form of advanced and continuing education

AutoElectNG:


Two examples to buttress my point

1. Helped a carowner with strong DIY skills pass emission testing in Sweden
- https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions

2. Helped fix a Honda whose tech spent a whole day fooling around
- https://www.nairaland.com/996664/maintenance-tips-honda-cars/104#54766412

Both issues were resolved sight unseen

Cars have become too complex to repair without some form of advanced and continuing education

so you intend to rely on data gotten from cars users to make accurate diagnoses ,try to be realistic for once Na.
You can even be led astray from common DTC code you use your own professional $10,000 scanner to retrieve.
how do u intend to separate the real code from reference codes ??the manufacturer repair algorithms that you so much rely atimes can lead you nowhere ,you need to rely on basic fact from from science to pull though .
.
I currently concluded a fix on a Siena 2004 that the owner complaint is overheating issue After some series of test ,I found that the overheating causes is due to serious misfiring that is happening and I have to performed several test and monitored the car for two days to convince myself that the overheating is not due to other factors .If the same complaints is reported on a forum like this,I am sure the direction of focus will be leak in the system ,clogged ,etc .
Also there is another case of a user of Camry 2010 v6 engine reported issue with performance on this forum before and the DTC code is pointing to timing issue and when the car got to my workshop ,the actual root of the performance issue problem is due to his fan runned direct ,no any anything related at all to anything related timing at all ,this is what is refered to as reference code. There is another case of multiple misfire and vaccum leak reported by the dtc that is actually due to kazeeem
connecting vacuum hose to wrong points .!!!So numerous cases to mention that required an expert physical presence in the line of action that !!!
My main point is that physical inspection is not negotiable in accurate diagnosis
and don't take DTC codes hook ,line and sinker to make accurate diagnosis,they are there as pointer not the real thing.
That you got some right unseen is not always so in real life practice. Atimes you need to monitor ,retrieve numerous data ,take drive test etc and analyses your data for hours to see where the missing links is and what about kazeem variables ??
I am an expert in electrical and computer engineering dedicated to automobile with more than 15 years experience so I should know the missions u are taking about here.
However ,don't let me discourage you if you are hell bent in doing this,probably u have discovered a better way to cover for all the variable mentioned . There is nothing that is impossible !!Fire on !!

honmusa:

so you intend to rely on data gotten from cars users to make accurate diagnoses ,try to be realistic for once Na.
You can even be led astray from common DTC code you use your own professional $10,000 scanner to retrieve.
how do u intend to separate the real code from reference codes ??the manufacturer repair algorithms that you so much rely atimes can lead you nowhere ,you need to rely on basic fact from from science to pull though .
.
I currently concluded a fix on a Siena 2004 that the owner complaint is overheating issue After some series of test ,I found that the overheating causes is due to serious misfiring that is happening and I have to performed several test and monitored the car for two days to convince myself that the overheating is not due to other factors .If the same complaints is reported on a forum like this,I am sure the direction of focus will be leak in the system ,clogged ,etc .

Also there is another case of a user of Camry 2010 v6 engine reported issue with performance on this forum before and the DTC code is pointing to timing issue and when the car got to my workshop ,the actual root of the performance issue problem is due to his fan runned direct ,no any anything related at all to anything related timing at all ,this is what is refered to as reference code. There is another case of multiple misfire and vaccum leak reported by the dtc that is actually due to kazeeem
connecting vacuum hose to wrong points .!!!So numerous cases to mention that required an expert physical presence in the line of action that !!!
My main point is that physical inspection is not negotiable in accurate diagnosis
and don't take DTC codes hook ,line and sinker to make accurate diagnosis,they are there as pointer not the real thing.
That you got some right unseen is not always so in real life practice. Atimes you need to monitor ,retrieve numerous data ,take drive test etc and analyses your data for hours to see where the missing links is and what about kazeem variables ??
I am an expert in electrical and computer engineering dedicated to automobile with more than 15 years experience so I should know the missions u are taking about here.
However ,don't let me discourage you if you are hell bent in doing this,probably u have discovered a better way to cover for all the variable mentioned . There is nothing that is impossible !!Fire on !!

1. I have not said that physical inspection is not necessary. I learnt from the whites, sometimes you don't need to be physically present to inspect. You can direct someone who is physically present to inspect so so and so. I have been a beneficiary of help from professionals who assisted me to without being physically present. It is proof that you know the subject inside out to be able to tell what to look out for and that helps to solve the problem without wasting time and effort.

For those that are DIY, I will tell them exactly what to look for.

For those that have a trusted mechanic who is stomped but is willing to consider a second opinion, I am willing to tell them what to look out for.

Countless times, I have been involved in circumstances where a call is placed to the Factory service helpline, the factory personnel is not right there physically, but he can direct the person at the other end of the line to check this or that and in the end the problem is resolved

The avensis in Sweden was physically inspected, just that I did not do myself, but I directed the owner on what to do.

2. I have never said I will not physically inspect. I have a case of a Mazda MPV that will not start, I performed physical inspection and to resolve the issue that is causing the non-start condition involves access to manufacturer information to make certain corrections. Did I physically inspect? Yes. But I will not say, I will not attempt to assist with troubleshooting until I see the car.

That is my position. Obviously, if a vehicle has been abused and altered from factory state, a physical inspection may be necessary and essential to remedy the situation, but in an age of technology, that can still be accomplished via a video call without any need to be physically present if we have a knowledgeable person at that end who has the appropriate tools but is simply at his wits end.

On the other hand, I have already addressed the issue that DTC codes are not a definitive, but suggestive at my thread. However, in an age where vehicles are computer controlled and full of complex electronic components, DTC codes must not be ignored. They must play a part in diagnosis.

It is basically an emissions standard and was initially designed for the reporting of vehicle emission status, but manufacturers latched onto the standard making it the de facto diagnosis and reprogramming protocol

Also see https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions#54360613 where I asked and answered the question:
What is a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)? And why you should be interested in DTCs! and among other things said:

NOTE: A trouble code by itself does NOT tell you which part to replace. You must diagnose the system, sensor and/or circuit to determine the fault before repairs are made or any parts are replaced.

Whatever manual diagnosis is done, has to be validated in the end by ensuring that the PCM or ECM or ECU as the case maybe agrees that the problem is indeed gone, and that means checking what DTCs existed before the repair and ensuring that those DTCs no longer exist after the repair, hence DTCs cannot be ignored.

I don't deal with DTCs only. I do full service, but I am open-minded.

But I start with the simple things, only after those are eliminated that I go complex with all the electronic/electrical wizardry that is required to solve the problem. If all else fails, and I have to come around, I will.

I proposed to assist with the overheating Mazda MPV owned by Hellustic - the problem could be purely mechanical, or purely electrical or a combination of the two. Suppose the vehicle is in Zamfara, and I have intimate knowledge of the vehicle such that I know what is wrong or could be wrong, must I insist that he pay the cost of transporting me there before I assist with the diagnosis, if he can afford to pay for the cost of transporting me, can he afford to pay for the opportunity cost of dislocating me and my schedules?

I am providing a valuable service, a valuable second opinion and sometimes, I get to solve the problem even when I am not physically present like I did for the Honda accord that I pointed out to in response to a question on my Nissan thread.

If the vehicle owner wants a physical, and is ready to pay for the it, why not if not.

AutoElectNG:


Using a cause and effect principle.

What happened before recently....

Scan and post the codes here.

Full vehicle service history prior to this development is crucial to finding a lasting remedy.

I have an idea what is wrong, but I need to know from you what has gone wrong also.

In other words, a fact check/reality check on what is peculiar to this ride that might be responsible for this condition viz a viz what ought to be.

Hmm. Reading how articulate your responses are shows that you really know your onions abi ur tools in this case.

To your question, before recently car runs as smooth as butter. Then sometime early this year I experienced the first overheating in traffic. Took it to one kazeem and before I say Kai, Oga we go remove the thermostat. Our weather too hot na why ur car dey overheat. Na so we dey do am. What do I know so I said fine. True overheating stopped for a while.

Then I was driving home one day and started hearing this wheezing sound from under the hood. Turned out to be coming from around where the steering belt and compressor is but I couldn't figure which it was. And sound comes out once the AC is turned on. Two days later the wheezing sound stopped and AC started blowing warm. Even now, without having the AC on I sometimes feel warm air blowing from the vents. And that's where I am with my baby now.

feelme3:


Hmm. Reading how articulate your responses are shows that you really know your onions abi ur tools in this case.

To your question, before recently car runs as smooth as butter. Then sometime early this year I experienced the first overheating in traffic. Took it to one kazeem and before I say Kai, Oga we go remove the thermostat. Our weather too hot na why ur car dey overheat. Na so we dey do am. What do I know so I said fine. True overheating stopped for a while.

Then I was driving home one day and started hearing this wheezing sound from under the hood. Turned out to be coming from around where the steering belt and compressor is but I couldn't figure which it was. And sound comes out once the AC is turned on. Two days later the wheezing sound stopped and AC started blowing warm. Even now, without having the AC on I sometimes feel warm air blowing from the vents. And that's where I am with my baby now.

COOLING SYSTEM ISSUES

1. Do you use coolant or just water?

2. Do you have the thermostat that was removed?

3. Can you purchase a brand new replacement thermostat?

4. Other than the thermostat, were any electrical modifications made? If yes, do you know what those are/were?

5. Can you confirm that your cooling system has no leak? hoses or the reservoir if your vehicle uses one or even the radiator itself

6. Do your fans (assuming the vehicle has 2) when the AC is turned on?

7. Do your fans come on when the vehicle is very hot but the AC is not on?

8. Do your fans come on as soon as the ignition switch turns on?

SOUNDS

9. What is the mileage of this vehicle?

10. How many belts does it use? I should not be asking but I have not bothered to check the documentation at this point in time, so you tell me.

11. Do you know the recommended replacement interval for those belts?

12. Have you replaced them according to the specification?

13. Are you low on refrigerant?

14. Do you have a loose hose connection?

15. Do you have hoses that are so dry that they no longer function effectively.

The noise could be a belt problem, or a pulley problem or a compressor problem. Get someone you trust that is mechanically inclined to check, and you can also get a second opinion just be on the safe side. You may need to meet a mech tech and an ac technician for diagnosis as opposed to repair so we can zero in on what's wrong.

If we reverse everything that was messed up, we should be good.

97 Maxima what trim? So I can do further checks for you later.

AutoElectNG:


COOLING SYSTEM ISSUES

1. Do you use coolant or just water?

2. Do you have the thermostat that was removed?

3. Can you purchase a brand new replacement thermostat?

4. Other than the thermostat, were any electrical modifications made? If yes, do you know what those are/were?

5. Can you confirm that your cooling system has no leak? hoses or the reservoir if your vehicle uses one or even the radiator itself

6. Do your fans (assuming the vehicle has 2) when the AC is turned on?

7. Do your fans come on when the vehicle is very hot but the AC is not on?

8. Do your fans come on as soon as the ignition switch turns on?

SOUNDS

9. What is the mileage of this vehicle?

10. How many belts does it use? I should not be asking but I have not bothered to check the documentation at this point in time, so you tell me.

11. Do you know the recommended replacement interval for those belts?

12. Have you replaced them according to the specification?

13. Are you low on refrigerant?

14. Do you have a loose hose connection?

15. Do you have hoses that are so dry that they no longer function effectively.

The noise could be a belt problem, or a pulley problem or a compressor problem. Get someone you trust that is mechanically inclined to check, and you can also get a second opinion just be on the safe side. You may need to meet a mech tech and an ac technician for diagnosis as opposed to repair so we can zero in on what's wrong.

If we reverse everything that was messed up, we should be good.

97 Maxima what trim? So I can do further checks for you later.

1. I used (freezetone) coolant only prior to the AC issue. But since I haven't been using the AC, been using water.

2. No I don't have the removed thermostat but I wouldn't mind buying another one if that will help in solving the issue.

3. The only electrical modification was on the fans (double) which they connected direct. Comes on once the ignition is turn on.

4. Yes there were leaks from some hoses which I have replaced. Also changed the hose clips that were loose.

5. Car has 100k plus on mileage. Has Two belts power steering and compressor I believe. Honestly I don't know about belt change intervals, only changed the belts on two occasions when it cut. Also do my normal servicing every three months (oil change and filter change) I've been using Mobile 20-50w. I don't know if that's okay but I haven't had any issues for the past one year I've been using it.

I don't know about Refrigerant o. I thought that's what's supposed to make the AC cool. AC just dey blow hot air. Will take it to a technician as you suggested. I watched on YouTube to replace hoses that makes squeaky sound when it is squeezed so I had a couple from the radiator that I replaced too.
Car trim is GLE.

I really appreciate your help. Thanks

Oga AutoElectNG,
What code should one look out for a failing ECU when vehicle is scanned? 1996 Nissan maxima has been giving some headache and my kazeem believe the ECU might be bad requiring replacement.

Is the free consultation for Nissan car still available?

buddie:
Oga AutoElectNG,
What code should one look out for a failing ECU when vehicle is scanned? 1996 Nissan maxima has been giving some headache and my kazeem believe the ECU might be bad requiring replacement.

Is the free consultation for Nissan car still available?

Is the free consultation for Nissan car still available? Yes.

I would rephrase the question. What code(s) you have? What symptom(s) or issue(s) is/are you contending with?

Is there any history before/after?

If you can answer the above, I can provide better help.

feelme3:


1. I used (freezetone) coolant only prior to the AC issue. But since I haven't been using the AC, been using water.

2. No I don't have the removed thermostat but I wouldn't mind buying another one if that will help in solving the issue.

3. The only electrical modification was on the fans (double) which they connected direct. Comes on once the ignition is turn on.

4. Yes there were leaks from some hoses which I have replaced. Also changed the hose clips that were loose.

5. Car has 100k plus on mileage. Has Two belts power steering and compressor I believe. Honestly I don't know about belt change intervals, only changed the belts on two occasions when it cut. Also do my normal servicing every three months (oil change and filter change) I've been using Mobile 20-50w. I don't know if that's okay but I haven't had any issues for the past one year I've been using it.

I don't know about Refrigerant o. I thought that's what's supposed to make the AC cool. AC just dey blow hot air. Will take it to a technician as you suggested. I watched on YouTube to replace hoses that makes squeaky sound when it is squeezed so I had a couple from the radiator that I replaced too.
Car trim is GLE.

I really appreciate your help. Thanks

If I understand what is going on well, at all other times while the AC is not on, the vehicle does not overheat.

I am going to paint some scenarios, I want you to tell me which of them is correct, or if all of them are correct!

The vehicle overheats when the AC comes on for like 30 minutes. Right or wrong? If the AC was not on throughout the journey the vehicle would not overheat? Please confirm or disprove.

The vehicle only overheats when the AC is not on but in heavy traffic. In other words, as long as traffic is free flowing no overheating, but the moment traffic snarls, the vehicle starts overheating. Right or wrong?

AutoElectNG:


If I understand what is going on well, at all other times while the AC is not on, the vehicle does not overheat.

I am going to paint some scenarios, I want you to tell me which of them is correct, or if all of them are correct!

The vehicle overheats when the AC comes on for like 30 minutes. Right or wrong? If the AC was not on throughout the journey the vehicle would not overheat? Please confirm or disprove.

The vehicle only overheats when the AC is not on but in heavy traffic. In other words, as long as traffic is free flowing no overheating, but the moment traffic snarls, the vehicle starts overheating. Right or wrong?

Yes sir. Car ONLY overheat when AC is turned on for 30mins or an hour at most, especially when traffic snarls. If traffic is flowing temperature rises but takes longer before going high which it eventually does.

Without AC on car never overheats.

In very simple terms, when AC is turned on, the load on the engine increases, when the load on the engine increases, more heat is created, which needs to be taken away, that is the purpose of the cooling system which is operates partly on mechanical principles, and partly electrical principles.

The vehicle can run the fans at several speeds cycling faster or slower depending on the demands based on the various inputs the system receives.

Right now, the ECU/PCM/ECM has the ability to control the fan as directed, but that control has been taken away from it by your Kazeem who decided to do a direct connection to the ignition - which as you must have guessed is set to one speed which is sufficient to cool the car without the AC but is insufficient to cool the car when the AC comes on.



It is true that you don't have a thermostat, but the key issue to returning the vehicle to factory specifications is to return the control to the ECU/PCU/ECM ASAP because at the moment it is powerless to respond to demands for additional cooling, as the vehicle was designed, it will keep the fans running at the highest speeds for as long as it is necessary to stabilize the temperatures and then turn them off, that is more effective than a one-speed setting which you currently run, and then we can replace the thermostat.

That is my diagnosis.

If you need me to do it for you, or you need me to provide you the wiring diagrams, or direct you or your trusted mechanic or electrician on the step by step actions to make this a reality, then pay to play comes into the picture.

Do the above, and everything will be back to normal.

AutoElectNG:
Please come back on June 1, 2017
Includes Nissan and Infiniti Coverage

Good day,

I just got a Nissan quest 2005.

The issue is that my fuel guage and temp guage meter is not visible. My rewire said that it cannot be repaired unless we buy a new dashboard from Ladipo. Though, other lights are showing and functional.

AutoElectNG:
In very simple terms, when AC is turned on, the load on the engine increases, when the load on the engine increases, more heat is created, which needs to be taken away, that is the purpose of the cooling system which is operates partly on mechanical principles, and partly electrical principles.

The vehicle can run the fans at several speeds cycling faster or slower depending on the demands based on the various inputs the system receives.

Right now, the ECU/PCM/ECM has the ability to control the fan as directed, but that control has been taken away from it by your Kazeem who decided to do a direct connection to the ignition - which as you must have guessed is set to one speed which is sufficient to cool the car without the AC but is insufficient to cool the car when the AC comes on.



It is true that you don't have a thermostat, but the key issue to returning the vehicle to factory specifications is to return the control to the ECU/PCU/ECM ASAP because at the moment it is powerless to respond to demands for additional cooling, as the vehicle was designed, it will keep the fans running at the highest speeds for as long as it is necessary to stabilize the temperatures and then turn them off, that is more effective than a one-speed setting which you currently run, and then we can replace the thermostat.

That is my diagnosis.

If you need me to do it for you, or you need me to provide you the wiring diagrams, or direct you or your trusted mechanic or electrician on the step by step actions to make this a reality, then pay to play comes into the picture.

Do the above, and everything will be back to normal.

Oga, I think say the awoof insurance go cover the pay to play o

Anyways, thanks again for the diagnosis. So how do we proceed? Any number to call you? Or can you PM with contact details?
Thanks

ghadaffi2000:


Good day,

I just got a Nissan quest 2005.

The issue is that my fuel guage and temp guage meter is not visible. My rewire said that it cannot be repaired unless we buy a new dashboard from Ladipo. Though, other lights are showing and functional.

Well-documented factory fault or age-related problem (either or both) for 2004 - 2009 Nissan Quest vehicles.

Did he mean instrument cluster? is that what you call dashboard?

I cannot imagine replacing the entire dashboard when the fault is localized to the instrument cluster!

Could you share pictures?

If you mean missing pixels in the instrument cluster, then the solution is to replace the LCD Ribbon cable that links the LCD Panel to the circuit board within the instrument cluster and the fuel and temperature gauges on your instrument cluster should roar back into life.

I doubt that the appropriate/cost-effective repair is an instrument cluster replacement not to talk of dashboard replacement.

In other words, this fault is electrical not mechanical.

Please the check engine light on my nissan qashqai 2010 model 2.0 is currently on and the code is P1111. I have tried to reset this but it's still showing. Any serious issues with this code? How do I fix this and can this code be responsible for not getting more than 21mpg within lagos. Thanks

feelme3:


Oga, I think say the awoof insurance go cover the pay to play o

Anyways, thanks again for the diagnosis. So how do we proceed? Any number to call you? Or can you PM with contact details?
Thanks

There is an alternative professional opinion from a highly respected source who chooses to remain undisclosed at the moment (by that I mean I do not have his permission to disclose his identity) which addresses something I overlooked, you may observe I spent scant attention to the wheezing sound you made mention to coming from around the compressor unit or area.

It reads:

"The temperature on the condenser/radiator went to high that the relief valve on the compressor opened up ( the wheeze sound) and stopped wheezing when the pressure was within limits."

The professional opinion then recommended/concluded:

"I feel she needs a new radiator"

So that is another possibility that we might have to strongly consider.

I came to a different conclusion because I have had to troubleshoot a situation where the temperatures would rise in slow moving traffic or at speeds under 50 MPH, but then there was no wheezing sound. Turns out that the fan that cycles on with the AC compressor has stopped working, so although the vehicle had not been abused, the cooling power of one fan was insufficient to bring temperatures down. But as soon as that problem was identified and rectified so that both fans would work as originally designed, the overheating went away. The difference though is that on this vehicle there was no wheezing sound, as soon as the overheating was observed more than once, the AC was shut down and temperatures came down, the AC was no longer used until the issue was rectified.

Second scenario, different vehicle at all other times, no overheating, but at a stop or in slow moving traffic without AC the vehicle would begin overheating, once the connections were reversed to factory setting, the overheating went away.

So now you have the benefit of more than one expert opinion, so you are in good hands.

shoot me an email carelectronics (at) nichekonsult (dot) com, then I can give your other methods of contacting me if email is not convenient

adefes:
Please the check engine light on my nissan qashqai 2010 model 2.0 is currently on and the code is P1111. I have tried to reset this but it's still showing. Any serious issues with this code? How do I fix this and can this code be responsible for not getting more than 21mpg within lagos. Thanks

Still working on this!

AutoElectNG:


There is an alternative professional opinion from a highly respected source who chooses to remain undisclosed at the moment (by that I mean I do not have his permission to disclose his identity) which addresses something I overlooked, you may observe I spent scant attention to the wheezing sound you made mention to coming from around the compressor unit or area.

It reads:

"The temperature on the condenser/radiator went to high that the relief valve on the compressor opened up ( the wheeze sound) and stopped wheezing when the pressure was within limits."

The professional opinion then recommended/concluded:

"I feel she needs a new radiator"

So that is another possibility that we might have to strongly consider.

I came to a different conclusion because I have had to troubleshoot a situation where the temperatures would rise in slow moving traffic or at speeds under 50 MPH, but then there was no wheezing sound. Turns out that the fan that cycles on with the AC compressor has stopped working, so although the vehicle had not been abused, the cooling power of one fan was insufficient to bring temperatures down. But as soon as that problem was identified and rectified so that both fans would work as originally designed, the overheating went away. The difference though is that on this vehicle there was no wheezing sound, as soon as the overheating was observed more than once, the AC was shut down and temperatures came down, the AC was no longer used until the issue was rectified.

Second scenario, different vehicle at all other times, no overheating, but at a stop or in slow moving traffic without AC the vehicle would begin overheating, once the connections were reversed to factory setting, the overheating went away.

So now you have the benefit of more than one expert opinion, so you are in good hands.

shoot me an email carelectronics (at) nichekonsult (dot) com, then I can give your other methods of contacting me if email is not convenient

Bros you are throwing parts at issue. This is more less like trial and error cos u are not asking the pertinent questions.You are neither here or there .
Let the OP flush the radiator first cos dirt buildup can cause unesssary pressure buildup with the cooling system ,it is more easier and less expensive to wash the radiator than any other thing .Before u can even conclude on any swap ,physical Inspection is required cos u are dealing with alot of variables.

honmusa:

Bros you are throwing parts at issue. This is more less like trial and error cos u are not asking the pertinent questions.You are neither here or there .
Let the OP flush the radiator first cos dirt buildup can cause unesssary pressure buildup with the cooling system ,it is more easier and less expensive to wash the radiator than any other thing .Before u can even conclude on any swap ,physical Inspection is required cos u are dealing with alot of variables.

Thank you

AutoElectNG:



Well-documented factory fault or age-related problem (either or both) for 2004 - 2009 Nissan Quest vehicles.

Did he mean instrument cluster? is that what you call dashboard?

I cannot imagine replacing the entire dashboard when the fault is localized to the instrument cluster!

Could you share pictures?

If you mean missing pixels in the instrument cluster, then the solution is to replace the LCD Ribbon cable that links the LCD Panel to the circuit board within the instrument cluster and the fuel and temperature gauges on your instrument cluster should roar back into life.

I doubt that the appropriate/cost-effective repair is an instrument cluster replacement not to talk of dashboard replacement.

In other words, this fault is electrical not mechanical.

Thank you very much for this response. I believe it's the instrument cluster. Where can I get the replacement of the LCD cable ribbon done or can it be done at Ladipo. I also doubted the need to replace the whole instrument cluster.

ghadaffi2000:


Thank you very much for this response. I believe it's the instrument cluster. Where can I get the replacement of the LCD cable ribbon done or can it be done at Ladipo. I also doubted the need to replace the whole instrument cluster.

As far I know, it has to be imported.

Nisspart and/or Costee might be able to answer if it can be sourced locally

I defer to their wisdom in that regard

adefes:
Please the check engine light on my nissan qashqai 2010 model 2.0 is currently on and the code is P1111. I have tried to reset this but it's still showing. Any serious issues with this code? How do I fix this and can this code be responsible for not getting more than 21mpg within lagos. Thanks

My access to Nissan Technical Data does not include the Service Manual for this vehicle ( it was not targeted at the American/Canadian market)

I have requested for help from Nissan to that effect, they have promised to get back to me, once I get a response, I will reach out to you.

That is why I have been silent.

AutoElectNG:


My access to Nissan Technical Data does not include the Service Manual for this vehicle ( it was not targeted at the American/Canadian market)

I have requested for help from Nissan to that effect, they have promised to get back to me, once I get a response, I will reach out to you.

That is why I have been silent.

Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve. I think you can apply the troubleshooting procedure for 2005 Sentra for the code. Funny enough his 2010 Qashqai is fitted with the same MR20DE engine as in the Sentra of the same (2010) year, yet the Sentra does not have the IVT valve code. Looks straight enough: check for electrical shorts connected with the valve or replace the valve. Timing may be a little retarded resulting in the rpm slightly out of spec (high) and so poor mpg. But then one wonders whether this issue did not result from the use of some contaminated engine oil.

Costee:

Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve. I think you can apply the troubleshooting procedure for 2005 Sentra for the code. Funny enough his 2010 Qashqai is fitted with the same MR20DE engine as in the Sentra of the same (2010) year, yet the Sentra does not have the IVT valve code. Looks straight enough: check for electrical shorts connected with the valve or replace the valve. Timing may be a little retarded resulting in the rpm slightly out of spec (high) and so poor mpg. But then one wonders whether this issue did not result from the use of some contaminated engine oil.

Thanks so much Resident Nissan Expert.

Part of the confusion is that depending on whom you ask, it says that the code stands for Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid OR Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit.

In relation to the Qashqai, I see the later. In relation to other vehicles in the Nissan lineup, I see the former.

So I decided to hold on until I can gain some clarity on which is which.