This is an interesting thread,but I must say the long hours spent in traffic has nothing to do with mileage accumulation on the odometer as the odometer only count when you are mobile.Think of the hours used in Lagos traffic with no mileage accounted for on the odometer. I just follow a simple rule of balancing the mileage accrued since last oil change and average hours spent in traffic before I go for oil change. I don't necessarily wait until I get to the expected mileage indication on the odometer before I change the oil.

All vehicles whether tokunbo or new are required to service their cars at 3000 if it is in miles or 5000kms or every 3 months whenever you use the lowest grade of oil and for synthetic, 6000mls and 10000kms for every 6 months. If there is sludge in your engine, use engine flush and then maintain the service interval. if you are in Abuja, try TOTAL at zone 3, Wuse and you will get quality service.

sooper rescue: All vehicles whether tokunbo or new are required to service their cars at 3000 if it is in miles or 5000kms or every 3 months whenever you use the lowest grade of oil and for synthetic, 6000mls and 10000kms for every 6 months. If there is sludge in your engine, use engine flush and then maintain the service interval. if you are in Abuja, try TOTAL at zone 3, Wuse and you will get quality service.

This thing with Nigerians!

Please, where did you learn that vehicles engine oil are to be changed every 3 months? You even went further to say "all vehicles, both new and used/tokunbo". Oh! I shake my head!

I want you to refer us to one, i mean, just one vehicle owners manual that instructed that the engine oil should be changed every 3 months. Lets clear this issue once and for all.

Nigerians love this thing called "Bandwagon Propaganda" so much." Everybody does it", thats all matters to us, even to our own detriment. No one bothers to investigate to be sure if this act everybody does is safe or good, as long as its a norm. Well, it's your car anyway. I have no right to tell you how to use it or what to do with it.

Ikenna.

In an extreme driving condition, all engine oils must be changed at 3000 miles or 3 months. Failure to do so will result in sludge in your engine. Our weather condition is extreme, dusty and hot, you need no expert to tell you when to change your oil. In maiduguri, majority of the motorists add oil treatment to their oil because of the excessive heat. Mercedes is programmed for 20,000 kilometers before service, that is in Europe and America but when it comes to Africa, it is a different ball game. Most garages advise that you service your car at every 3000mls or 5000 kms or 3 months. I know a guy that uses over 3000 mls in two weeks and he comes for service because he is following the best counsel.
Oil Sludge: an expensive but preventable disaster
Every year, more of my customers suffer through unnecessary and very expensive engine re-builds due to oil sludge. The causes are complex but sludge damage can be prevented.
The oil sludge problem is reaching epidemic proportions on many 1997 and newer cars, with the following cars greatly affected:
 Audi - 1997-2004
 Chrysler - 1998-2002
 Dodge - 1998-2002
 Hyundai - 1998-2004
 Lexus - 1997-2003
 Toyota - 1997-2003
 SAAB - 1999-2003
 Volkswagen - 1997-2004

What is oil sludge?
Oil sludge is the breakdown product of over-stressed oil in your engine.
Oil that is stressed by contaminants and oxidation-or has to work thousands of miles longer than it was designed to-will break down into a gel that sticks to your engine parts. As the sludge sticks, there is less good oil to circulate and do its protective job. This coating of gel also stores heat instead of releasing it which stresses the radiator and cooling system.
Although at first the motor oil level may appear OK, a sludgy engine is being damaged with EVERY stroke. Your engine may lose oil pressure, get terrible gas mileage, and other components might mysteriously fail such as timing belts, idle speed controls, and gaskets.
Sludge begins to appear in the oil pan and valve covers. Oil filler cap inspection as an indicator of sludge build-up is not conclusive, as normal engines can have a small amount of sludge and condensation present at this 'high point' of the crankcase.
Why is oil sludge affecting more cars?
My research and experience concludes that both environmental and financial pressures have combined to affect your oiling system. Here's how:
Environmental pressures:
1. In the struggle to pass tougher federal emissions specifications, car manufacturers have raised engine operating temperatures and increased exhaust gas recirculation (EGR). In 1996, tighter federal emissions standards were enacted. Fuel mixtures have to run leaner, and leaner mixtures cause higher combustion temperatures. When nitrogen in the air is raised to higher temperatures it is converted into new contaminant cocktails. By 1997, sludge is appearing as a major problem.
2. New "long-life" antifreeze was introduced in 1995 to reduce the amount of chemical pollution in our environment. But longer 100,000-mile radiator service intervals often leads drivers to neglect their cooling systems. Worn-out coolant takes on an electrical charge that chemically acts like acid on engine parts. Depleted coolant also results in higher engine temperatures.
3. Federal pressures for more fuel economy in cars and trucks led car manufacturers to design engines for lower viscosity motor oils. Lighter oils tend to break down faster under urban driving conditions.
Financial pressures:
1. Some manufacturers recommend oil change intervals longer than 3,000 miles to market their cars' quality or to appeal to buyers on a budget. Consumers, already paying on auto loans, are reluctant to spend money for maintenance and embrace these extended intervals.
2. Quick lube shops competing for your business cave into pressure for bargain oil changes. To cut costs, they might buy single weight oil in bulk or use recycled oil. They use cheaper, less durable oil filters. Low-wage, inexperienced technicians sometimes make servicing mistakes when trying to work faster.
A very short history of oil change intervals
With oil prices so high in the early 1970s, and with engine designs evolving, Mobil introduced the Mobil 1 synthetic oil for gasoline engines. At the time, Mobil was promoting 20- or 25,000-mile oil changes with synthetic products, but they soon backed down from this.
In the 1980s, Toyota came out with a 10,000-mile oil change policy, in part to brag about the quality of their cars but mostly to market low maintenance costs. After receiving thousands of warranty claims for engine repairs from angry customers worldwide, they backed off of this absurd recommendation and went back to 3,000 mile intervals.
Improvements in motor oil chemistry in the 1990s encouraged many car makers to promote long oil change intervals. The long intervals actually worked OK until 1996, with very few sludge-related engine failures reported and many happy customers driving up to 10,000 miles between changes. After 1996, tighter emissions standards added pressure to the oiling system, and problems appeared.
Now in the 2000s, oil sludge buildup and sludge-related engine failure is a costly and frustrating nightmare for many. What's going on?

Your car's oiling system is its lifeblood
The oiling system in an engine is similar to the vascular system in a human body. It must absorb and release toxins, transfer heat, and suspend harmful particles until they can be filtered out. Unlike the blood in your body, though, engine oil is not self-renewing and has a limit to how much stress it can safely handle before it needs to be removed and refreshed.
As your car is driven, oil is pumped under pressure from the oil pan up through the oil pump. The oil pump sends oil to the crankshaft and camshaft, and is squeezed into the tiny channels of the motor. The moving parts also splash oil onto other components in the crankcase, and finally it falls under gravity back into the oil pan. Meanwhile, about 20% of the oil flow is diverted to the oil filter for cleaning. On some engines, an external oil cooler is used to dissipate heat from the engine.
Motor oil has a complex chemical job to do. While lubricating your engine's moving parts at high temperatures, motor oil carries combustion by-products, collects airborne contaminants from the air-intake system, and absorbs and releases small amounts of water from engine heating and cooling. Circulating motor oil also suspends acids that are formed by chemical reactions in the crankcase. Sometimes tiny leaks allow some fuel or coolant to creep into the oiling system.
How oil does its job
Motor oil is a refined base stock with chemical additives. These additives work to suspend contaminants, inhibit corrosion, coat metal parts, keep viscosity stable, and slow oxidation.
As you drive, the combustion process allows small amounts of unburned fuel to escape into the oiling system which causes oil contamination. Contaminants are handled by:
 oil additives, which suspend and contain the contaminants to prevent damage to metal engine parts
 the oil filter, which captures large particles that are suspended by the additives
 the PCV system (positive crankcase ventilation) uses a vapor separator to capture the lighter, gaseous contaminants and recirculate them back to the combustion process while the heavier contaminants drain down into the oil pan. So not only is the PCV system an important emissions device, but it's also crucial to keeping your motor oil clean.
As contaminants build up, the oil base itself starts to oxidize and turns the familiar red-brown color of worn-out oil. If not changed promptly, your engine is irreversibly damaged by chemical reactions, heat, and friction.
What makes synthetic oil superior to conventional oil?
I recommend synthetic motor oil to all my customers to prevent sludge. Why?
Synthetic motor oil is made from a blend of mineral oil, natural gas, and special additives. Because this blend is extremely pure from the beginning, it can withstand more torture in your vehicle's engine.
Synthetic lubricants cost just slightly more than conventional oils, but offer the best engine protection because:
 synthetics remain stable at high temperatures (conventional oils break down faster at today's higher engine temps)
 synthetics remain fluid at very low temperatures (conventional oils thicken)
 additive packages are formulated with special chemicals for top cleaning and anti-oxidant protection
Remember, you can switch to synthetics on any car regardless of age or previous motor oil. If your vehicle has been acting up, have your technician check for sludge.
So why don't all cars suffer from sludge?
Some car makers stay with the standard 3-month/3,000 mile oil change interval. Others, such as BMW's longer interval, rarely cause any problems. Why? Their new engine designs call for a 7 or 8 quart capacity, almost twice that of the average car—and they specify full synthetic motor oil.
In addition, some drivers protect their cars by ignoring the recommended longer interval and changing their motor oil every 3,000 miles. These drivers ask for high-quality oil and filters, and keep up with other maintenance schedules.
Remember—any car can suffer an oil sludge problem, and some manufacturers more than others due to various design differences. It's to your advantage to get a technician's advice on what interval your engine and driving habits REALLY requires, and take matters into your own hands!
Rescue and Recovery Nigeria Limited.

Hello All,

The 5w-20 and 5w-30 engines oils which are classified as energy conserving oils are actually the oils that are recommended / best suited in the following 2000 - 2013 models:-

Acura : RL, TL, TSX, RDX, ZDX, ILX, MDX.
Chevrolet : Cruze, Equinox, Malibu.
Ford : Fiesta, Fusion, Taurus, Ranger, Escape, Edge, Explorer.
Honda : Accord, Crosstour, Civic, CRV, Pilot, Ridgeline, Element, Odyssey.
Hyundai: Accent, Elantra, Sonata, Tuscon / IX35, Santa Fe, Vera Cruz.
Kia: Rio, Optima, Soul, Sportage, Sorento.
Land Rover : LR2, LR3, LR4, Range Rover, Range Rover Sport.
Lexus: IS, LS, ES, GX, RX, GS, LX.
Mazda: 3, 5, 6, CX7, CX9, Protege, Tribute, Miata, MPV.
Nissan: Altima, Maxima, Murano, Pathfinder, Titan, Xterra, Pathfinder.
Toyota : Yaris, Corolla, Matrix, Prius, Avensis, Camry, Avalon, Venza, RAV4, Highlander, 4Runner, Landcruiser, Sequoia, Sienna, Tacoma, Tundra.

Because the API ratings ( SJ , SL , SM etc ) have changed over the years you will find that 5w20, 5w30, 15w40, and 20w50 now provide the same protection in countries where the ambient temperature is between 90 and 100 regularly. Dont forget that Texas is as hot as Nigeria and they dont use 20w50 for cars that have 5w20 / 5w30 as the recommended oils.

i hope you all find this useful. And when in doubt consult your car owners manual. Our mechanics cannot know better than the manufacturers of the car engines.

We need to be able to define "extreme driving conditions" so that we do not mislead nairalanders. Driving in traffic does not constitute extreme driving conditions. Sustained high speed driving is extreme, pulling trailers is extreme, but stop and go traffic is not. People need to google extreme driving conditions to know if they ever experience such conditions.

We must not lose sight of the fact that only a few yrs ago we were being misled by some mechanics that carburetors and manual transmission was better than fuel injection and automatic transmission. Today we all know better.

Your owners manual contains the interval that should be adhered to. Driving in dusty conditions has also been captured in this manual so relying on a mechanic that might be living in the past might not be helpful.

There is nothing wrong in over pampering ones car but at least you should be aware that that is all you are doing by changing your oil too soon. If you feel you are purchasing poor quality engine oil then it makes sense to remove it at 3000km or miles. However if you are purchasing good quality oil then you should leave it in longer.

Death Valley, United Arab Emirates, and Malaysia are 3 areas that on average record higher temperatures than Nigeria. These places are equally as dusty. Do they change their oils every 3000 miles ?

The 3000 mile oil change interval for every car regardless of country of use is outdated. See Links below:-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3,000_mile_myth
http://www.calrecycle.ca.gov/UsedOil/OilChange/
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/vehicle-maintenance/change-oil-3000-miles.htm
http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop-changing-your-oil.html
https://plus.google.com/+MarkTraphagen/posts/KtQd64qK4FG
http://ctwatchdog.com/finance/3000-mile-oil-change-rule-does-not-apply-to-newer-cars
http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/top-7-urban-legends-about-motor-oil.html


I hope you all find this useful

anneki: We need to be able to define "extreme driving conditions" so that we do not mislead nairalanders. Driving in traffic does not constitute extreme driving conditions. Sustained high speed driving is extreme, but stop and go traffic is not. People need to google extreme driving conditions to know if they ever experience such conditions.

I disagree.

Ikenna.

Changing your Oil after 3000 miles is preferable in the country. As a practitioner in the auto service industry, owners of vehicles that defer their oil change for even a month after the recommended 3 months suffer oil sludge problems in their engines. There are vehicles that come to our workshops and the sludge in the engines are an eyesore but after flushing the engine and making them stick to the 3000mls/5000kms for conventional oils and 6000mls/10000kms for synthetic oils, there is no longer any occurence of sludge in their engines. An extreme driving condition description is what we face here, with the dust, heat and chaotic traffic, we better adhere to the rule or we face the consequence by losing money to fix engines.

if u are using dino/conventional oil [normal 20w 50..costs btw 1500 nd 3k naira.....i advice you to change ur oil every 1500 to 2k miles or 2months, wch ever comes first. if u r using mobil 1 0w 40/ or any synthetic oil sells for 7k to 9k u can change ur oil every 3500 to 5k miles....or 4 to 6months....wch ever u are comfortable with..

conventional oils degrade with time, even if the car is parked for 1month unused............u shud change the oil after 2 months
synthetic oils dont degrade easily so can last for 4 to 6 months.

sludge is a major problem in car engines...dont let ur expensive car get damged cos of something as cheap as oil of 3k or so

There are many motorists that uses conventional oils and they change the oil every month and we still find sludge in the engines. The 3000 or 3 months regime for conventional oils has worked for many of our clients. When the car returns for oil change, we dont use engine flush in the engines again, we just change the oil and it works.There was a car that came for oil change and the engine was very dirty with sludge that we recommended flushing the engine. We flushed the engine and changed the oil. After the service, the engine knocked. The car that was driven into the garage, flushed for five minutes, knocked after the engine was flushed. What could have caused it? The sludge in the engine has been protecting the car, (the engine was already gone anyway)so when the sludge was removed, the engine knocked. Different strokes for different folks

Mix a flawed engine design with less than optimal engine running temperature and a cocktail of poor engine oils / treatment and sludge can result. In a country where we feel that removing our thermostat or connecting our fans direct is normal how can we ever achieve proper engine temperature required for burning off the moisture that is formed in the crankcase especially as we do a lot of short trips?

The problem with a flush especially one of those 5-15 min ones is that the chemical you introduce into your crankcase loosens a lot of gunk which now moves and blocks an oil passage creating an entirely new problem. If the chemical will dissolve the sludge ( see Kreen and Marvel Mystery Oil ) gradually over time that is better than trying to do same in 5 - 15 mins. Go to this site www.bobistheoilguy.com. Very helpful info there about oils and how to go about addressing sludge. Not all chemicals are the same and some ( auto-rx ) actually create problems when used for flushing. Below are oil recommendation charts. You might want to advise your clients to start with the correct oil viscosity that will have the correct additive package to deal with sludge.

yomiam69:
i call B.S. on most of the suggestions in this thread.

Yes in almost ALL cases in the User Manuals of the most common cars in Nigeria, it is advised to changed your Oil and Filter under the "Severe Schedule", i.e. 2,000 miles.

but in reality, DO NOT WAIT till even the 2,000 miles thing IF using the regular Oils (e.g. 20W50, etc).......change your Oil and Filter at 1,500 - 1600 miles MAX and you Engine, Seals etc will last beyond what you expected.

even at 1,500 miles IN THIS PART OF THE WORLD, there are some very tiny amounts of sludge in the expelled oil due to the weather and the driving and road conditions, just that you don't notice it.

and NO, you are not wasting your money.....how could anyone have such a gross thought when spending money to protect you and your car from future colossal failure expenses and unexpected disappointments?

The idea that the conditions in Nigeria are far different from the condition in europe or America is not very true. California is known to get just as hot as lagos or even Kano. Australia is also vey hot during summer, likewise many other european countries.
The manufacturers of these cars are experts and would never recommend anything that would harm the car.
In the US, the most strigent servicing is at 3000 miles, most cars after 2000, would recommend after 5000 miles for severe usage.
The only advice I would give is that use the best parts available, buy original oil filter and the specified oil or something closest to it.

ijigbamigb: Hey Nlanders. My toyota corolla presently is at 102k mileage and i service it every last day of the month, I DRIVE or I NO DRIVE...I use Mobil, the one of 3k...is this ok or just a waste of cash...ABEG make una advice me ooo

hahaha...your mechanic just dey chop ur money oooo.

Ikenna351: i beg to differ from the position some of you took. Oil of a vehicle driven mainly in cities should be changed frequently, more often than one use for long distance. Use of vehicles in cities or short distances bring more wears & tears on such vehicles than one use frequently on long distance. Reason: story for another day.

Normally, you should refer to your owners manual. As for most Peugeots I know, the manual would instruct: Drain & refill oil (& change the oil filter too) every 7,500 km (5,000 miles) or at least twice yearly (every 6 months). So you are wasting your money changing oil & filter every 3 months, as far as am concerned. I dont know about other brands, though.

Ikenna.

Ikenna is correct, city driving (stop and go traffic) means the car should follow the severe service schedule that's because long distance drives are far easier on the vehicle than stop and go traffic.

anneki: We need to be able to define "extreme driving conditions" so that we do not mislead nairalanders. Driving in traffic does not constitute extreme driving conditions. Sustained high speed driving is extreme, pulling trailers is extreme, but stop and go traffic is not. People need to google extreme driving conditions to know if they ever experience such conditions.

We must not lose sight of the fact that only a few yrs ago we were being misled by some mechanics that carburetors and manual transmission was better than fuel injection and automatic transmission. Today we all know better.

Your owners manual contains the interval that should be adhered to. Driving in dusty conditions has also been captured in this manual so relying on a mechanic that might be living in the past might not be helpful.

There is nothing wrong in over pampering ones car but at least you should be aware that that is all you are doing by changing your oil too soon. If you feel you are purchasing poor quality engine oil then it makes sense to remove it at 3000km or miles. However if you are purchasing good quality oil then you should leave it in longer.

Death Valley, United Arab Emirates, and Malaysia are 3 areas that on average record higher temperatures than Nigeria. These places are equally as dusty. Do they change their oils every 3000 miles ?

The 3000 mile oil change interval for every car regardless of country of use is outdated. See Links below:-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3,000_mile_myth
http://www.calrecycle.ca.gov/UsedOil/OilChange/
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/vehicle-maintenance/change-oil-3000-miles.htm
http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop-changing-your-oil.html
https://plus.google.com/+MarkTraphagen/posts/KtQd64qK4FG
http://ctwatchdog.com/finance/3000-mile-oil-change-rule-does-not-apply-to-newer-cars
http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/top-7-urban-legends-about-motor-oil.html


I hope you all find this useful

I agree with you 100%. My 2004 Toyota sienna manual says pointed out what constitute extreme driving conditions which includes driving in dusty areas, sustained high speed, towing a trailers etc. driving in traffic does not constitute extreme driving. I also use the recommended 5w 30 & synthetic. I service at 5000 miles.

bravolad:

I agree with you 100%. My 2004 Toyota sienna manual says pointed out what constitute extreme driving conditions which includes driving in dusty areas, sustained high speed, towing a trailers etc. driving in traffic does not constitute extreme driving. I also use the recommended 5w 30 & synthetic. I service at 5000 miles.

Definition: This type of driving is especially hard on a vehicle because the engine spends most of it time at idle where it works less efficiently. Because the water pump is turning slowly at idle, the cooling system can overheat on a hot day. Continual stopping and starting also accelerates wear on the brakes, clutch and automatic transmission. When combined with short trips, the engine never gets a chance to reach full operating temperature so the oil becomes contaminated much more rapidly. Therefore, this kind of driving usually means more frequent oil changes and more frequent brake, clutch and transmission repairs.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/glossary/bldef-754a.htm

and this:

http://autos.aol.com/article/hard-driving-changing-engine-oil/

Extract lifted:

Let’s start by trying to understand the differences between normal and severe. The severe schedule, which always has shorter recommended intervals between oil changes, applies if any of the following are true:

Most trips are less than 10 miles (16 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.

Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic).

The vehicle is frequently driven in dusty areas, like on dirt or gravel roads.

The vehicle is frequently used for towing a trailer or using a carrier on top, both of which place extra demands on the engine.

The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi, or other commercial applications
....
This sort of driving can be hard on oil because the engine isn’t allowed to completely warm up to operating temperature, especially during the winter in cold climate areas.

When the engine is cold, it operates in a mode that richens the fuel mixture, which causes excess fuel to spill down past the piston rings and into the crankcase. This dilutes the oil and breaks down its chemical fortifying packages, ultimately diminishing the oil’s ability to flow. This change in viscosity decreases the oil’s capacity to protect the internal engine parts, and to resist vaporization and oxidation. Other damaging effects are acid buildup and ash, causing further viscosity breakdown as well as internal sludging.

and this


Severe driving conditions include driving in stop-and-go traffic or excessive idling, making frequent short trips (less than 5 miles per trip), driving in extreme temperatures (over 90 F or below freezing), and towing and hauling. The average driver probably considers his or her driving conditions normal, but the truth is that most of us drive under severe conditions far more often than we realize and should time our oil changes accordingly. Source: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=9014501&contentId=6004639 (they sell oil, right?)

Ikenna351: i beg to differ from the position some of you took. Oil of a vehicle driven mainly in cities should be changed frequently, more often than one use for long distance. Use of vehicles in cities or short distances bring more wears & tears on such vehicles than one use frequently on long distance. Reason: story for another day.

Normally, you should refer to your owners manual. As for most Peugeots I know, the manual would instruct: Drain & refill oil (& change the oil filter too) every 7,500 km (5,000 miles) or at least twice yearly (every 6 months). So you are wasting your money changing oil & filter every 3 months, as far as am concerned. I dont know about other brands, though.

Ikenna.

Wrng bro,stress on the engine is removed via transmissin.has nothing to do with urban or higiway driving,however the constant in all this is distance.If u gt the right oil with the right viscocity U can do the manu spec

ZIM DRILL: this is the simple answer to the question asked

your got two choices

1 follow what user manual of your car says meaning they encourage you to change over certain covered mileage eg if was bought new change when it reaches 12000miles then at 23000 etc

2nd option is do it every year thats what most people in the UK

Here in UK some people take it to the dealer the dealer stamps the service book for those who dont want to heavy bills from the cars dealer they take it to normal garage to be serviced but one key thing is done you get all the reciepts of the things that got changed this will help you when you want to sell the car the buyer might ask for service history and you will show him/her all the reciepts

dont worry about the oil being black becoz it always turn into black

My brother God bless you, following these links, i would have almost repented from my usual one year interval of my neatly kept and well maintain c class because it usually goes dark at 6 months(usually pushed to 12 monthly interval) with mobil1 0w40 , and my 190 , hardly use and never went dark in 12 monthly interval..never had engine problems before.

These excerpts from Edmund confirms your hypothesis:

The “3,000-Mile Rule” is just one of many common myths exposed by Edmunds.com. Other oil myths debunked by Edmunds.com include:

MYTH: Nearly all cars should be serviced under the “severe” maintenance schedule. When manufacturers say “severe,” they generally apply to vehicles that pull heavy trailers, or commercial vehicles that can idle for hours at a time. Plain old stop-and-go traffic doesn’t automatically bump people into the severe schedule.

MYTH: Check the oil on the dipstick. If it’s black, change the oil. Experts say that oil is meant to get dark — it means it’s doing its job. Also, different additives can change the color of motor oil.

MYTH: Once you use synthetic oil, you always have to use it. “As long as the oil meets the service and viscosity requirements set out in your owner’s manual, you can switch back and forth as much as you want,” says Edmunds.com Engineering Editor Jason Kavanagh.

For detailed explanations explaining all seven urban legends about motor oil, please visit Edmunds.com at http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/top-7-urban-legends-about-motor-oil.html.

Edmunds.com also provides tips on choosing the right motor oil for your car at http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/do-i-have-to-use-the-manufacturers-oil.html.

JideTheBlogger:

hahaha...your mechanic just dey chop ur money oooo.

and probably selling off the oil that was changed

Preventive maintenance is usually cheaper than repairs. I advocate changing the oil filter and engine oil after 5,000kilometres regardless of whether or not the oil has changed color and I use Total Quartz 9000.

Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years and the transmission fluid changed every 40,000-50,000 kilometers.

If you use Quartz 9000, then it is 6 months and 10000 kilometers or 6000 miles. Transmission fluids are to be changed at every 15000 miles or the equivalent in kilometers or every year. Forget all those life time oil. It is at your own peril. We happen to observe cars that run on conventional oils are better serviced at 3000 miles or 5000 kilometers and when they come back after three months, no sludge in the engines. But if they come after 4 months, you will see sludge all over the engine oil chamber. The conventional 3 months is better or 6 months for synthetic oils.

sooper rescue: If you use Quartz 9000, then it is 6 months and 10000 kilometers or 6000 miles. Transmission fluids are to be changed at every 15000 miles or the equivalent in kilometers or every year. Forget all those life time oil. It is at your own peril. We happen to observe cars that run on conventional oils are better serviced at 3000 miles or 5000 kilometers and when they come back after three months, no sludge in the engines. But if they come after 4 months, you will see sludge all over the engine oil chamber. The conventional 3 months is better or 6 months for synthetic oils.

You are wrong.

Ikenna.

Ikenna,
I am not quoting from any textbook. I see it every day. In 2005, in a meeting with Coscharis garage, they confided in me that BMW suggested that they should use Mobil 1 instead of Castrol oil as it is not available in the country. With their long interval of 20000 kms, they discovered that there was sludge in all the 3 and 5 series that they serviced. Only the 7 series were not common with sludge related issues. The reason for the 7 series lower sludge related issues was because the car is hardly used on a daily basis.Today, there is a 1 series BMW in my garage and it is choked with sludge. The owner uses Mobil 1. The number 1 problem today is sludge and whoever ignores it is ready to spend money which we, Mechanics are always looking for. My customers rush down once they are close to the date given to them on their stickers and their cars are in top shape. Total Q 9000 is very well known to me because I worked with the product consistently for 2 years and in the beginning, nobody wanted it but now, it is the market leader. There was a lady that I changed her oil and used Q9000 in her Range Rover Sport and immediately I took the jeep to her, she was mad at me that I wanted to destroy her Jeep. 30 mins later, a Mechanic from Coscharis rushed down to VI on a bike with Mobil 1 and drained out the Q9000 in the Jeep. My interaction with TOTAL lubes engineer was that it can go up to 20000kms but we disagreed to now agree at 10000 kms or 6000miles and 6 months interval. Now, I am experimenting with OANDO Synthetic and am monitoring its performance based on the cars that I have used it on. I guess that oil will be the market leader soon. Barka da sallah

sooper rescue: Ikenna,
I am not quoting from any textbook. I see it every day. In 2005, in a meeting with Coscharis garage, they confided in me that BMW suggested that they should use Mobil 1 instead of Castrol oil as it is not available in the country. With their long interval of 20000 kms, they discovered that there was sludge in all the 3 and 5 series that they serviced. Only the 7 series were not common with sludge related issues. The reason for the 7 series lower sludge related issues was because the car is hardly used on a daily basis.Today, there is a 1 series BMW in my garage and it is choked with sludge. The owner uses Mobil 1. The number 1 problem today is sludge and whoever ignores it is ready to spend money which we, Mechanics are always looking for. My customers rush down once they are close to the date given to them on their stickers and their cars are in top shape. Total Q 9000 is very well known to me because I worked with the product consistently for 2 years and in the beginning, nobody wanted it but now, it is the market leader. There was a lady that I changed her oil and used Q9000 in her Range Rover Sport and immediately I took the jeep to her, she was mad at me that I wanted to destroy her Jeep. 30 mins later, a Mechanic from Coscharis rushed down to VI on a bike with Mobil 1 and drained out the Q9000 in the Jeep. My interaction with TOTAL lubes engineer was that it can go up to 20000kms but we disagreed to now agree at 10000 kms or 6000miles and 6 months interval. Now, I am experimenting with OANDO Synthetic and am monitoring its performance based on the cars that I have used it on. I guess that oil will be the market leader soon. Barka da sallah

From your field experience, Please compare and contrast Mobil 1 with Oando Synthetic Total Q9000 and Forte Synthetic. My manual specifies severe service as 3,000 miles or 5,000 kilometres which i follow religiously but intend to switch to synthetic and increase the intervals to 9,000 miles or 14,500 kilometres while using Bosch DistancePlus Oil Filters

6000 miles or 10000 kms for the period of 6 months. I have not used Forte but I know that Q 9000 is good, very good and with OANDO synthetic which I am pasting the specifications now, you will see that this is the new kid on the block. Although Forte synthetic claims to have the same characteristics with OANDO, but with time we shall know. Mobil 1 has been in the market for long and from 2003 when they became the market leader, they could not manage the success. They made a company policy of partnering with MR Biggs and rebuilt their stations to incorporate the fast food outfit and forgot to build lube bays where their lubricants will be sold and dispensed to the public. They assigned their lube products to dealers who in a bid to sell these products quickly invaded the markets where unscrupulous traders now determine for us, which fake mobil 1 is good for us. So they lost the market share to TOTAL. This is the spec sheet for OANDO SYN.

[b]
OLEUM Syn
Ultra High Performance Passenger Car Synthetic Engine Oil
VISCOCITY GRADES: SAE VG 5W/40
Oleum Syn is a premium, fully synthetic motor oil scientifically formulated with global ultimate active cleansing technology. It works harder to protect than conventional motor oils by continuously helping to prevent dirt and sludge from building up. For better responsiveness and improved performance, enabling your engine to operate at its full potential right up to the next scheduled oil change. Oleum Syn helps to minimise engine noise, and conditions and protects engines from the extra stresses of driving in modern start-stop traffic conditions. Oleum Syn is for performance motoring, and it rejuvenates and refreshes your engine
It is formulated to meet the latest API (American Petroleum Institute) SN; ACEA C3-10(2010); PORSCHE A40; BMW LONGLIFE-04 and MB-Approval 229.51 specification.
PERFORMANCE:
Oleum Syn is Ultra High Performance Passenger Car Synthetic Engine Oil with ultimate active cleansing technology designed for the most advanced protection of all modern petrol engines including Turbo charged ones.
BENEFITS:
 It provides the best engine protection by continuously helping to remove deposits from dirty engines.
 Long-term oxidation stability
 Low viscosity, rapid oil flow and low friction with excellent technical performance
 Improved fuel efficiency and easier cold starting and pumpability.
 High shear stability with exceptional anti-wear and anti-corrosion properties.
 To maintain viscosity and stay in grade throughout the oil drain period.
 Specially selected synthetic base oils that exceeds engine requirements
 Helps reduce oil volatility and therefore oil consumption. The need for oil top-up is reduced.
 Minimises vibration and engine noise
 Smoother, quieter drive.
Performance level: API Service SN
2
Typical Characteristics:
Aspect TEST METHODS UNIT Value
Appearance ASTM D 4176/1 - Bright & Clear
Density @ 15°C ASTM D 1298 Kg/l 0.8530
Kinematics Viscosity @ 40°C ASTM D 445 cst 73
Kinematics Viscosity @ 100°C ASTM D 445 cst 12.6
Viscosity Index ASTM D 2270 - 165
Viscosity CCS @ -30°C ASTM D 5293 CP 6250
Flash Point COC(min) ASTM D 92 °C 232
Pour Point ASTM D 97 °C -36
LBS Per U.S GAL @ 15.6 C ASTM D 2878 Kg/l 7.11
LBS Per U.S GAL @ 15.6 C ASTM D 2878 Kg/l 8.54
Calcium ASTM D 4628 %wt 0.0104
Magnesium ASTM D 4628 %wt 0.212
Zinc ASTM D 4628 %wt 0.084
Sulphur ASTM D 4628 %wt 0.216
Nitrogen ASTM D 4628 %wt 0.09
Phosphorus ASTM D 4628 %wt 0.077
Sulphated Ash ASTM D 4628 %wt 0.78
Base Number ASTM D 2896 mg.KOH/g 7.40
Performance Level: API SN
 ACEA C3-10(2010)
 Porsche A40
 BMW Longlife-04
 MB-Approval 229.51[/b]

@ sooper rescue,

I would suggest to you to speak of what you know and leave the ones you don't know. You are beginning to sound as if no other member in Car Talk uses TOTAL engine oils.

From your comments here, it showed that you have no clue or know little about TOTAL 5W40 (Quartz 9000). So you think every engine Oil is meant for every engine? Have you bothered to find out specific engines the oil was produced for? Did you bother to find out the specific recommended oils for those engines you claimed that had sludge? Where were the engine oils purchased from? Road side stores, TOTAL or Mobil fuel stations?

The other day, somebody was saying he switched to TOTAL engine oil and his car engine oil temperature started hitting 100 degree Celsius. For that, he condemned the oil. Probably, the brand or oil grade he was using before would leave his oil temperature at 70 degree Celsius, no matter how long the engine had ran, even if the low oil temperature is killing the engine. Of course, he didn't check to find out the normal oil temperature for that engine/vehicle in the owners manual.

If Oando works for you, stick to it. It doesn't mean the other brand of oils are bad, simply because they were put in wrong engines.


Ikenna.

Ikenna,
I know much about TOTAL Q 9000 and the people that uses TOTAL never complains about the oil. My main concern here is sludge in Engines and how do you ensure that they dont return again. The guy that condemned TOTAL oil, did he check if there was sludge in his engine before changing to TOTAL? Oando syn has just of recent been used on some cars and we will know of its acclaimed performance once the vehicles are due for service.

sooper rescue: 6000 miles or 10000 kms for the period of 6 months. I have not used Forte but I know that Q 9000 is good, very good and with OANDO synthetic which I am pasting the specifications now, you will see that this is the new kid on the block. Although Forte synthetic claims to have the same characteristics with OANDO, but with time we shall know. Mobil 1 has been in the market for long and from 2003 when they became the market leader, they could not manage the success. They made a company policy of partnering with MR Biggs and rebuilt their stations to incorporate the fast food outfit and forgot to build lube bays where their lubricants will be sold and dispensed to the public. They assigned their lube products to dealers who in a bid to sell these products quickly invaded the markets where unscrupulous traders now determine for us, which fake mobil 1 is good for us. So they lost the market share to TOTAL. This is the spec sheet for OANDO SYN.

[b]
OLEUM Syn
Ultra High Performance Passenger Car Synthetic Engine Oil
VISCOCITY GRADES: SAE VG 5W/40
Oleum Syn is a premium, fully synthetic motor oil scientifically formulated with global ultimate active cleansing technology. It works harder to protect than conventional motor oils by continuously helping to prevent dirt and sludge from building up. For better responsiveness and improved performance, enabling your engine to operate at its full potential right up to the next scheduled oil change. Oleum Syn helps to minimise engine noise, and conditions and protects engines from the extra stresses of driving in modern start-stop traffic conditions. Oleum Syn is for performance motoring, and it rejuvenates and refreshes your engine
It is formulated to meet the latest API (American Petroleum Institute) SN; ACEA C3-10(2010); PORSCHE A40; BMW LONGLIFE-04 and MB-Approval 229.51 specification.
PERFORMANCE:
Oleum Syn is Ultra High Performance Passenger Car Synthetic Engine Oil with ultimate active cleansing technology designed for the most advanced protection of all modern petrol engines including Turbo charged ones.
BENEFITS:
 It provides the best engine protection by continuously helping to remove deposits from dirty engines.
 Long-term oxidation stability
 Low viscosity, rapid oil flow and low friction with excellent technical performance
 Improved fuel efficiency and easier cold starting and pumpability.
 High shear stability with exceptional anti-wear and anti-corrosion properties.
 To maintain viscosity and stay in grade throughout the oil drain period.
 Specially selected synthetic base oils that exceeds engine requirements
 Helps reduce oil volatility and therefore oil consumption. The need for oil top-up is reduced.
 Minimises vibration and engine noise
 Smoother, quieter drive.
Performance level: API Service SN
2
Typical Characteristics:
Aspect TEST METHODS UNIT Value
Appearance ASTM D 4176/1 - Bright & Clear
Density @ 15°C ASTM D 1298 Kg/l 0.8530
Kinematics Viscosity @ 40°C ASTM D 445 cst 73
Kinematics Viscosity @ 100°C ASTM D 445 cst 12.6
Viscosity Index ASTM D 2270 - 165
Viscosity CCS @ -30°C ASTM D 5293 CP 6250
Flash Point COC(min) ASTM D 92 °C 232
Pour Point ASTM D 97 °C -36
LBS Per U.S GAL @ 15.6 C ASTM D 2878 Kg/l 7.11
LBS Per U.S GAL @ 15.6 C ASTM D 2878 Kg/l 8.54
Calcium ASTM D 4628 %wt 0.0104
Magnesium ASTM D 4628 %wt 0.212
Zinc ASTM D 4628 %wt 0.084
Sulphur ASTM D 4628 %wt 0.216
Nitrogen ASTM D 4628 %wt 0.09
Phosphorus ASTM D 4628 %wt 0.077
Sulphated Ash ASTM D 4628 %wt 0.78
Base Number ASTM D 2896 mg.KOH/g 7.40
Performance Level: API SN
 ACEA C3-10(2010)
 Porsche A40
 BMW Longlife-04
 MB-Approval 229.51[/b]

Thanks a million, Sir.

I'll start with Mobil 1, and if original is so hard to find, i'll import it since my manual recommends it.

But am interested in knowing how the other oils fare before I try them. 9,000 miles take a long time to cover if you rarely travel so it would take years to complete the test hence my recourse to you.

Ultimately the answer lies in a Blackstone lab analysis http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php

Thanks once more!

That is why I still insist that you cannot go 9000 miles before oil change. The best is 6000 miles or 6 months, even if you import Castrol oil to use here. There are real Mobil 1 being sold in the country. Try the Mobil along Lekki expressway. and the one in Maryland in Ikeja. They cant afford to sell fake oil there.