Conner44:


If it has been working well for you then you should stick to it

So far no sludge

Or is there something else

Conner44:


So far it was 6PK it will run all the components well but depreciate faster . Instead of your china belt to last 4 years it will likely cut within 2 years except you’re vigilant and change it on time. The 6PK in that belt code is pointing at the number of grooves on the spinning pulleys of your power steering pump, compressor, alternator,water pump and crankshaft where the belt loops around and sits

If you’ve been using a 6PK in your vehicle before and look closely you’d notice that the belt is not covering the whole surface of the pulleys

It makes it undersized and will depreciate faster

All I’m saying is just make sure you get the 1830 part right. If you don’t use the exact 1830 size of belt, you’re looking for trouble

Good evening boss.

I drive a Honda 2004 EOD.
When i want to sellect gear the selection doesn't correlate with the one showing on the Dashboard, and even if i move the gear and put it on "" or "R" or "N" it doesn't enter directly, I'll have to move the gear handle a bit back and forth while looking at the dashboard and still checking the engine sound to hear or see when it has entered...but when it enters the gear selects perfectly without issues...please what could be wrong? My mechanic was saying something about gear wire and requesting for 15k

P0685 ECM/PCM Power Relay Control Circuit Open

Honda accord euro 2006

234GT:
Please help gurus.
I got a tokunbo freshly cleared 2008 accord i4 in December. The car was showing 30% oil life, but the oil was not short on the dipstick.
I got total 5w30 oil on jumia on 17th December. I just checked the dipstick now and saw the oil is below the low mark, in just one month. Oil life is on 70% in just one month of usage. I have travelled 1,200 miles after the service.
Is it that I got a fake oil? I am confused.
I also noticed that the cold start noise frequency has increased.

Possible you got a fake oil, or your car is already burning oil.
You might need to switch to an high mileage oil or 10W40 and observe.

baba4thegehs:
Hello everyone.

I hear this strange loud noise when I'm on idle and vibrating mostly in traffic the sound is from the bonnet particularly loud when the AC is on, I have spent almost 100k plus changing all 3 engine mounts, and trying different recommendations from mechanics it stop for like a week and then starts again.

When you drive for 30-1hr the noise becomes louder in traffic.

I don't even know if it's engine knocking sounds, but it's been like this for about a year.

I decided to just ignore and move on cause every other thing works fine in the car just the stupid sounds.

The sound is like 2 objects clashing on each other.

Please help

Remote diagnosis would be difficult.
Call 07089030689 if in Lagos for physical diagnosis.

williams20:
Hi Car Gurus,

My Honda Pilot 07 displays
Check engine , TPMS, and VSA. VSA and TPMS goes after after a while and comes back . I have checked pressure and checked tyre . What could be wrong

Kindly scan the car with a good scanner then post code for assistance

prevail23:

Good evening boss.

I drive a Honda 2004 EOD.
When i want to sellect gear the selection doesn't correlate with the one showing on the Dashboard, and even if i move the gear and put it on "" or "R" or "N" it doesn't enter directly, I'll have to move the gear handle a bit back and forth while looking at the dashboard and still checking the engine sound to hear or see when it has entered...but when it enters the gear selects perfectly without issues...please what could be wrong? My mechanic was saying something about gear wire and requesting for 15k

This cars tend to be abused by technicians and owners alike.
What repair work did you do on the car prior to now?
Remote diagnosis might be difficult.

prevail23:

Good evening boss.

I drive a Honda 2004 EOD.
When i want to sellect gear the selection doesn't correlate with the one showing on the Dashboard, and even if i move the gear and put it on "" or "R" or "N" it doesn't enter directly, I'll have to move the gear handle a bit back and forth while looking at the dashboard and still checking the engine sound to hear or see when it has entered...but when it enters the gear selects perfectly without issues...please what could be wrong? My mechanic was saying something about gear wire and requesting for 15k

There is a cable that runs under your vehicle from the gear stick to the gearbox. If that cable’s tension is a little off or rusted It could be giving you the same symptoms you’re experiencing. Truly a mechanic can go under there and check it out. Haggle price with him. It shouldn’t be too much because the cable isn’t broken and he wouldn’t need to buy any parts.

Sportwin:


So far no sludge

Or is there something else

I’ve used many types of oil in my engine just for fun. From mobil1 to royal purple to this hardex and even petrocam. Just make sure to monitor its consumption then change it out when it’s time and your engine will be okay.

Good evening bosses, I’m experiencing an issues with my Honda accord. It drags whenever I accelerate before it becomes stable then when I’m close to like 40mph. It begins to jerks and I have to slow down. Accelerating now takes times, drags and louder. More like the engine doesn’t have enough power to fire.

When I scanned it’s was showing solenoid sensor. I replaced that and also topped the transmission oil and I’ve gone as far as changing fuel pump. It was fine for two days and now again it has started and I really don’t know what’s wrong with it.

Expert advice is needed.

quam9997:
Good evening bosses, I’m experiencing an issues with my Honda accord. It drags whenever I accelerate before it becomes stable then when I’m close to like 40mph. It begins to jerks and I have to slow down. Accelerating now takes times, drags and louder. More like the engine doesn’t have enough power to fire.

When I scanned it’s was showing solenoid sensor. I replaced that and also topped the transmission oil and I’ve gone as far as changing fuel pump. It was fine for two days and now again it has started and I really don’t know what’s wrong with it.

Expert advice is needed.

Scan again and share codes

Conner44:


There is a cable that runs under your vehicle from the gear stick to the gearbox. If that cable’s tension is a little off or rusted It could be giving you the same symptoms you’re experiencing. Truly a mechanic can go under there and check it out. Haggle price with him. It shouldn’t be too much because the cable isn’t broken and he wouldn’t need to buy any parts.

The bolded text is a wrong assumption for a car you've not physically inspected.
What if the cable has stretched and needs replacement?

Good afternoon all,

Please I bought a naija-used 2005 EOD in December which I left parked till after the holidays. I need help to know if I'm being taken advantage of.

- The battery is now weak and the charger says he has to change the acid of the battery. He is charging me 4k.

- Anyone with the idea of how much the engine seats currently costs?

- How much max do you think the dents should be fixed?

Replies will be greatly appreciated

Dozieson:


Scan again and share codes

These are the codes my small scanner is bringing

jceesquare:

The bolded text is a wrong assumption for a car you've not physically inspected. What if the cable has stretched and needs replacement?

But from the above quote we are both assuming and making assumptions aren’t we?

Fact is if the cable isn’t to be replaced then N15k for workmanship fee alone is high. He should haggle the price down.

quam9997:


These are the codes my small scanner is bringing

From your initial post you claimed to have first scanned the vehicle and gotten a solenoid code which you had replaced before driving for a while and the issue came back again right?

Is this code you’re getting the same as you got before you changed the solenoid before or is this a new code?

Mille:
Good afternoon all,

Please I bought a naija-used 2005 EOD in December which I left parked till after the holidays. I need help to know if I'm being taken advantage of.

- The battery is now weak and the charger says he has to change the acid of the battery. He is charging me 4k.

- Anyone with the idea of how much the engine seats currently costs?

- How much max do you think the dents should be fixed?

Replies will be greatly appreciated

If your battery is the type that has those covered holes ontop where the acid can be replaced from then fine, try to get a good bargain and try the battery charger’s option BUT if your current battery is the sealed type then I’d advise you to save up for a replacement battery altogether. For the charger to cut holes on a sealed battery to replace it’s acid is not a good or safe practice.

You have 3 engine seats, front solid type can cost between 7 - 10k, back is around the same price and side should be between 5 - 7 k.

Fixing dents usually is accompanied by spraying. You’d need to let a panel beater assess the issue and give you his recommendation.

Conner44:


From your initial post you claimed to have first scanned the vehicle and gotten a solenoid code which you had replaced before driving for a while and the issue came back again right?

Is this code you’re getting the same as you got before you changed the solenoid before or is this a new code?

Yes .. the P0796 was the initial code of which I was advised to top my transmission oil and also replaced the sensor.

After that the code came back and now the car jerks when I try to push to 40mph and drags before it moves. Like something is holding it form moving well. I have to really accelerate before I’m able to climb some slightly high gallops on the road.


Then when I scanned again which it today, the code is back with 2 others

quam9997:



Yes .. the P0796 was the initial code of which I was advised to top my transmission oil and also replaced the sensor.

After that the code came back and now the car jerks when I try to push to 40mph and drags before it moves. Like something is holding it form moving well. I have to really accelerate before I’m able to climb some slightly high gallops on the road.


Then when I scanned again which it today, the code is back with 2 others

Okay, so it was only the code P0796 that came up before you changed the solenoid and used the vehicle for how many more miles before the issue returned and the same code came back with the additional P0966 and P0141?

What type of vehicle is this again? On most accord transmissions their solenoids B & C are usually fused together in a single unit and must be replaced as a whole. It’s possible you purchased a bad replacement before.

Conner44:


Okay, so it was only the code P0796 that came up before you changed the solenoid and used the vehicle for how many more miles before the issue returned and the same code came back with the additional P0966 and P0141?

What type of vehicle is this again? On most accord transmissions their solenoids B & C are usually fused together in a single unit and must be replaced as a whole. It’s possible you purchased a bad replacement before.

2013 Honda accord.. I’m not sure the Mechanic replaced both, but at first it was P0796 and after replacing fuel pump and solenoid c .. that’s when the P0966 came up.


Prior to changing the fuel pump, I topped the transmission oil but it was still the same.


Then we later changed the fuel pump, changed the solenoid C sensor, reduced the transmission oil as the mechanic said it’s too much. After like 30 mins everything cleared and the car was fine until yesterday.


It came back with P0796 and P0966 and the jerking started especially when I change gear from R to D (vice versa) and I can’t go further than 40mph coupled with the car dragging before it moves

quam9997:



2013 Honda accord.. I’m not sure the Mechanic replaced both, but at first it was P0796 and after replacing fuel pump and solenoid c .. that’s when the P0966 came up.


Prior to changing the fuel pump, I topped the transmission oil but it was still the same.


Then we later changed the fuel pump, changed the solenoid C sensor, reduced the transmission oil as the mechanic said it’s too much . After like 30 mins everything cleared and the car was fine until yesterday.


It came back with P0796 and P0966 and the jerking started especially when I change gear from R to D (vice versa) and I can’t go further than 40mph coupled with the car dragging before it moves

Baba, remember you’re driving a vehicle with a CVT gearbox. I hope you’ve not used ATF-DW1 in it

If you reduced the transmission fluid I hope it isn’t too low now. Check your owners manual on the proper way to check your transmission fluid level. It’s not the same across vehicle makes and models and your mechanic might be reading its level wrongly. Your symptoms look like it’s indicative of something to do with the transmission fluid not being at the normal level so far you’ve replaced the faulty solenoids with functional units already

Conner44:


Tpms has to do with your tyre pressures. If it’s displaying an error then it means one or more of the 4 sensors integrated into the tyre valves are either damaged or missing. To fix this issue you need to check each wheel for damaged sensors, purchase new sensors and recalibrate them with your brainbox.

Your vsa error is the same things as an abs error on other vehicles. There is a problem with your abs system. A technician has to peruse its associated components to pinpoint its issue.

BUT those two errors above are less important than your check engine light. You need to scan your vehicle to know exactly what it’s calling your attention to before it gets any worse.

Thanks immensely, I'll scan and post codes this week

Conner44:


If your battery is the type that has those covered holes ontop where the acid can be replaced from then fine, try to get a good bargain and try the battery charger’s option BUT if your current battery is the sealed type then I’d advise you to save up for a replacement battery altogether. For the charger to cut holes on a sealed battery to replace it’s acid is not a good or safe practice.

You have 3 engine seats, front solid type can cost between 7 - 10k, back is around the same price and side should be between 5 - 7 k.

Fixing dents usually is accompanied by spraying. You’d need to let a panel beater assess the issue and give you his recommendation.

Thank you. I really appreciate it

Conner44:


Baba, remember you’re driving a vehicle with a CVT gearbox. I hope you’ve not used ATF-DW1 in it

If you reduced the transmission fluid I hope it isn’t too low now. Check your owners manual on the proper way to check your transmission fluid level. It’s not the same across vehicle makes and models and your mechanic might be reading its level wrongly. Your symptoms look like it’s indicative of something to do with the transmission fluid not being at the normal level so far you’ve replaced the faulty solenoids with functional units already

I used Honda HCF-2 transmission fluid, but I’ll look up on the manual to confirm what you Judy suggested. But could the error codes still be a result of the transmission fluid, as it’s showing that two solenoid being faulty

jceesquare:

This cars tend to be abused by technicians and owners alike.
What repair work did you do on the car prior to now?
Remote diagnosis might be difficult.

just bought the car recently bro, Naija used.

Conner44:


There is a cable that runs under your vehicle from the gear stick to the gearbox. If that cable’s tension is a little off or rusted It could be giving you the same symptoms you’re experiencing. Truly a mechanic can go under there and check it out. Haggle price with him. It shouldn’t be too much because the cable isn’t broken and he wouldn’t need to buy any parts.

he changed it today o, but still doesn't select perfectly yet.

quam9997:



I used Honda HCF-2 transmission fluid, but I’ll look up on the manual to confirm what you Judy suggested. But could the error codes still be a result of the transmission fluid, as it’s showing that two solenoid being faulty

If the scan is pointing to specific solenoids then that is where the issue is manifesting itself to be picked up by the car’s computer.

What powers solenoids is 12v from the alternator/battery and specific transmission fluid pressures. Sometimes solenoids just get bad and start working erratically before finally shutting down.

Also having low, old or dirty fluid can mess up with the solenoids. Low fluid will need topping off. Old/dirty fluid needs to be replaced and the solenoids cleaned up after the fluid change.

If after you changed the solenoids that first time you had some trouble-free day’s driving the vehicle around before the issue manifested itself again I’d suspect that you bought a bad replacement solenoid BUT if after the change you didn’t notice any immediate improvement that lasted for a few days then I’d shift my attention to the quality of the replacement I just put in before suspecting the transmission fluid or something else.

First of all check the proper way to guage your fluid. The mechanic might have gauged your own like how he does another brand of vehicle

prevail23:
he changed it today o, but still doesn't select perfectly yet.

What of your transmission neutral safety switch. That cable you just changed actually controls this switch and makes your gearbox enter different gears as you shift the lever. Since the cable is no longer an issue your next culprit is this switch.

It is on the side of your gearbox just behind your drivers wheel and It can either be recalibrated or replaced.

Show your mechanic the picture below and he will know where it is on your gearbox. Let him check it to see if it’s loose or bad.

Can someone help read these codes, the card is eod, what can I do, my card is consuming too much fuel.

Conner44:


If the scan is pointing to specific solenoids then that is where the issue is manifesting itself to be picked up by the car’s computer.

What powers solenoids is 12v from the alternator/battery and specific transmission fluid pressures. Sometimes solenoids just get bad and start working erratically before finally shutting down.

Also having low, old or dirty fluid can mess up with the solenoids. Low fluid will need topping off. Old/dirty fluid needs to be replaced and the solenoids cleaned up after the fluid change.

If after you changed the solenoids that first time you had some trouble-free day’s driving the vehicle around before the issue manifested itself again I’d suspect that you bought a bad replacement solenoid BUT if after the change you didn’t notice any immediate improvement that lasted for a few days then I’d shift my attention to the quality of the replacement I just put in before suspecting the transmission fluid or something else.

First of all check the proper way to guage your fluid. The mechanic might have gauged your own like how he does another brand of vehicle

Thank you very much, really appreciate.


I’m going to check the oil gauge from the “check bolt” but I’m thinking of even draining all the oils and put new one make sure it gauged. Then try it after a while, if it persists then will look into the solenoids. I don’t know if that makes sense tho

quam9997:




Thank you very much, really appreciate.


I’m going to check the oil gauge from the “check bolt” but I’m thinking of even draining all the oils and put new one make sure it gauged . Then try it after a while, if it persists then will look into the solenoids. I don’t know if that makes sense tho

The above bolded is the right way to go. Make sure the fluid is fresh and properly gauged before shifting your attention to anything else. The fluid is the life of the gearbox.

Stubborn82:
Can someone help read these codes, the card is eod, what can I do, my card is consuming too much fuel.

Is your catalyst intact within your exhaust system? Those codes point to issues with both your O2 sensors and they may need to be changed if you have not lost your catalyst yet.