loluskysat:
See, a simple SPD will do this. That's the work of an SPD

You say!

Even with his detailed explanation?

When building LFP packs, there is a resistor attached to either Breaker or BMS to help cater for the Inverter In rush current, that we experience as a large Spark from inverter when connecting first time.

luvlyoracle:
Just asking if any one here has review of these sungene 280w solar panels

They are good enough.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Irs9mpW6hQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Irs9mpW6hQ

Ooreofegrace:
Update

Hello chief, gone there yesterday and did few of the things listed here... (Equalizer also changed the battery settings to flood on the inverter) .. Also went with felicity 60a cc sadly that one doesn't accept more than 145v but was still able to use it to charge cause of the poor weather although when the sun intensity increases, it started blinking the warning red light. Anyways that not where am going... what I noticed myself is that, the battery doesn't take more than 10mins before it runs from full charge to completely discharge which is from 25.+v to 21.8v. and also takes abt same mins (10mins) before it get full even to bulk and float level. Let me also call una attention to this, initially when i did the installation, they had two 100ah battery which i connected to it, after abt few days the batteries became so weak and dead. I was like maybe because they've been using those for going to 2yrs maybe that was why, then we got another one.. Brand new ones this time around two tubular batteries 12v 220ah then this issues again which am just so so confused ... I also noticed the battery will start decreasing just like a clock count down.. It doesn't back up at all ones the PV is been cut off.. Same thing the previous two 100ah did.. what is the way forward, what kind of solution can I use to tackle this problem pls.. Will be in the comment section... Thanks all..

Their usage pattern is the cause they are deep discharging the battery.

11.99V and 10.99V is a sign of bad batteries.

Get them a minimum 5kwh LFP pack and have peace!

Allem:
I get confused when we rate panel purchase with ba3 size.
I use to think it's getting a solar array that can easily replace power consumed daily by the user. I come learn oh.

For OFF Grid system.
Sizing panel is to cater for daily usage, day time plus Night time..

Forexample if your load consume 15WKH, Using 3hours you need 5kw panels minimum too serve on average days. If sun is not enough you ration the load. But you can always oversize as budge permits, you will waste power on good days and enjoy it during bad weather conditions.

Now you size your batteries based on usage pattern, when do you use most power during the day, or night? What is your ideal night usage, some use more power in the night or at specific time?So Night start at 4pm and ends at 9am. So how much energy do you consume during this window will determine your Batteries capacity, let say you use 8kwh(DC usage) during this window, then size the batteries to 10kwh or more as budget permits. The solar panel will power the load connected during the day and also charge batteries for night backup.

Nutridelfarms:


I'm based in Lagos

You can reach out, +2348132394478

Smartwoods:
How many amps can I do on 24v 104 LifePO4 battery?

You can do up to 0.5C which translated 0.5*104, that is 52A.

Charging the solar, CC or hybrid I set to max 52A.

Charging with Grid I only do 0.2C max which is 21A

jonescosmos:
The Original Canadian Solar Panels are equipped with T4 or MC4-Evo2 connectors.
The T4/MC4 Evo2 is designed to handle higher voltage/amperage module ratings than the conventional MC4 and I tried coupling the both some years back and they didn't mate when you plug them together.
So you might have to hold your sample in hand before buying the particular T4/MC4-Evo2 that you seek.

Boss, you don go reply like AI.

a Plug in Naija and context of the question mean connect or Source,better still where he can get quality Canadian solar panel.

isangjohnson:

Fake test reports are extremely easy to verify. Simply email the test reports to EV for verification.
Between 24-48 hours, you will receive a feedback.
I verified test reports for 280ah matched and batched Grade A Ev cells a few weeks ago and they said are all legit.
I'm expecting 105ah batched and matched grade A cells with their test reports next week
Tuesday. Once I receive them, I'll email the test reports to EV for verification.
EV company is too big for the cells resellers to bribe and the company doesn't joke with it standards.
The company has been receiving negative complains about the dubious activities of the gray market cells dealers. That was why Ev decided (about two years ago) to stamp B on top of the cell qr code in all its rejected cells that were not up to the automotive standards. The
resellers would replace the entire qr codes with the fake ones and sell them as Grade A+.
These are all fake market strategies. There is
nothing like grade A+ or grade B-.
You can peel off the black cover, clean and wipe all the glue off with rubbing alcohol gently to find out the truth.
Finally, capacity is not a good measure of a cell, nor is it the primary reason why cells are grade A.

Las Las most can't tell difference once it's inside pack, no matter how you preach this Grade A gospel.

Let's just leave the matter and move on with, people will get what so ever they paid for.

Home storage DIY users can always top balance their cells and not have issues, for a long time with Good smart active balancer in place, also they are not heavy users, hence Grade A is useless.

jonescosmos:
People ended up buying Lithium Batteries from random places at a too good to be through prices.

I personally discovered that some sellers harvest cells and replace with lesser capacity cells (I kid you not, fear Alaba Market People)
We often times look at China as a major source of fake products. Truth is, those guys actually have Quality Control Department that works. But our people will always find a way to infiltrate facilities.

Any Felicity Product you see with Internal defects or cell mismatch and etc must have been tampered after it left factory.

I can show you my chats with Felicity Engineers, where they give a go ahead to open up a product and show them what I found inside and through that most times they have confirmed to me genuine components and fakes.

See this new 25KW that was recently brought into the market, I have made verification from Felicity about the cells and they said its packaged with REPT Cells and this particular 500A Grade A >8000 cycle cell is not yet in the market because REPT must satisfy OEM factories contracts before selling to open markets, let's wait a few months and see what cells you will see from the Alaba Market Sources.

Try to visit Felicity service centers you will understand better.

When buying felicity products, buy from them directly, e get why

I don explain this thing tire, say Felicity have genuine product with full capacity, but some ignorance fellow will use the fake/relabeled ones as yardstick to demarket Felicity, company we don dey the game for over 15 years..

But Naija people just want it cheap.

kristien4:
Na wa... me thinking it was 80amps charging current all this while, to give a safe gap, i actually configured the the batteries to charge at 50amps max, not knowing i was already maxing out the 50amps charging current. I reduced it now. I just dey suffer my battery since.. . Seems i wont be adding any more lead acid battery.

If Solar is only solar for charging. Leave it at 50A. Most time it won't reach, as you can see at 3900w PV input your load is taking 2000w and reaming going to battery which in return battery are only. Charging at 28A.. which is fair. Only time you will be boiling is when load is not that much.

But set grid to charge at 20A and use CSO- which is Solar charge during the day and Grid during night.

kristien4:
@techGeek777 @Dam5ree1. The battery also has a c1 rating on a sticker placed on top, does that justify the 80A max charge?

That's Discharge..

Again you have exposed more reasons why we shout LFP battery

at C10 is where you get 200AH..
At C5 you get 182AH
At C3 you get 166AH
At 1C which you never even attemp. You will only get 132AH and Voltage would have sagged to 9.6V before you can achieve that..

50A Max is the Bulk charging current just as stated 0.25CA. to prolong your batteries do only 20A, 0.1C charging

.

durodee:
Due to my needs, I have added two other packs to the @ 5kwh pack to a total of @15kwh. Though I don't monitor daily or that frequently for that matter, I have not seen any unexpected behavior outside what is expected , based on the way I use them.
Nothing lasts forever, but one thing I never wish for is to go back to Lead acids. In Yoruba , it is called APADASIBURU (return to evil). If newer technology comes, I am very open. When I see videos of people lugging tubular batteries up and down, I tend to pity them and wonder why some people are still riding bicycles uphill when the direction to their destination is downhill.
If you have Lead acids now, by all means use them but please please my brother, there is absolutely nothing to gain by buying Lead acids in 2024.
I have used Sagem 4 sim phones before. Wonderful phone for 2005 but not for 2025. I hope you get my point.

Boss, how Una take solve the Sunking 2.5kwh packs for 11M matter?

I just saw my old mentions

kristien4:
Thanks boss. I appreciate the info. I wanted to ask, if i add 4 more batteries to make it 8pieces. That's 4s2p(400ah), can i increase the charging current too?

If you are using Hybrid it will make sense to set max charging current to 20A for 4s and 40A for 4s2p.. anything higher is over charging and will kill the AGM faster.

Why not save for Lithium! Where you can do up to 0.5C charging. That's 100A on a 48V 200Ah

TechGeek777:


Your battery is rated C10(i.e, you shouldn't discharge the battery in less than 10hrs)

200Ah/10 = 20Ah discharge current * norminal voltage(48v) ==> 960w(Don't discharge more than this at any given time).

80A is your Max Charging Current
80A * 48v = 3840w (Don't charge more than this)

Submission: Based on your Pv production of 3900w, your charging Wattage is good.

DON'T discharge more than 960w if you want your battery to see 3-5yrs!

Just a Note sir, C-rate is for both Charging and Discharge..

C10 is 20A operating Current for both. Not just for discharge.

Even if you charge at that 80A, the Battery voltage will rise quickly and the Charging current will start to reduce..

This will also result to inefficiency cause when sun is blasting his panels won't be able to push available energy into the battery.

That's why some systems don't last, they are boiling the battery thinking 80A is okay since it's written on it.

At 50 DOD, meaning you only need to push 100AH into the battery, it's best to charge at 20A as per C rate, so in 6-8hours your batteries should float.

Nexuspulse:

New Cells are grade A 6000 Cycles Series. 5 years warranty 6000 Times cycle base on 0.25C at 25°，DOD 80%, with communication protocol, warranty 5 years,life time more than 10 years Communicate procotal with following inverter brand name :Growatt,Voltronic, DEYE, GOODWE, VICTRON, PYLONTEC, SMA, SOFAR and so on, IP20, while new cells grade B is 4000 cycles base on 0.2C at 25°, 3 year warranty, use life over 5 years. Communicate procotal with following inverter brand name :Growatt,Voltronic, DEYE, GOODWE, VICTRON, PYLONTEC, SMA, SOFAR and so on

5120WH New Grade A Cells NGN 1,258,613
5120WH New Grade B Cells NGN 1,113,425

Nationwide Delivery

Interesting to see brand come out and tell us the truth about grades and pricing.. some will just Hide under grade B and claim they are selling cheaper per KWH cause based on these you won't even notice any difference for first year!

Xanderone:


Yes. Attached is the picture of the remote.

If you use the smart inverter AC 1.5HP.

Try this Hack if it works for you.

Use the Timer function to activate the power saver mode..
It will reduce the power to less than 600w

Set like 20 degrees and use 4 to 7 hours.
Timer is at the bottom.

sharks776:
More

1kw Low frequency inverter that can only do 350w inductive load?

Where is the Surge ratings?

QuoteJust1nce:
After much delib, Finally settled for:

Jinko 580W x9,
Growatt SPF 5000ES and
Pylontech UP5000 5.12kWh x2

I guess it's time to find a reliable installer and I'll love recommendations. Thanks alot

You can reach out +234-8132394478

durodee:
Can the Sunking 10kwh carry his load?
I cannot send the voice notes the installer sent claiming the batteries will serve overnight!

Well, He has advised to the best of his knowledge. I am not there before client make payment and what transpire before the agreement was made.
I rest my case.

S007:


I have not made any comment here in years.......
How am I not going to make this an epistle....

Thanks for your wonderful contributions. I think you are right on this one. But not entirely 100%.
The OEM did not state the rating of the mppt tracker in their spec sheet. I strongly suspect that they chose to be silent on this for a reason. They know what they are doing.....
I did a couple of deye installations of recent in two different places. I had to put 8 units of original Canadian solar 650W panels on 6Kw deye inverter and I ran into a dilemma doing the job. All panels installed together in the same angle.
If I split the panels into 2 strings, the inverter will struggle to wakeup or run during the day. To make matters worse, if I choose to do the second string, I will have to run extra pair of 10mm cable over 40meters. At 5000naira/meter that is extra 200k.
I was very angry and furious with deye on why they choose to be silent over this very important matter.
Well.... i took matters into my own hands. I put all the 8 panels on one string and into one of the mppt tracker knowing fully well that I am not going to break any of the rules according to their spec sheet to avoid voiding the warranty.
Kw, voltage and current all slightly below spec rating even on a single string.
On commissioning, we were getting well over 100amps. In fact I had to limit the output current at some point to protect battery. Installation had been running for several months without any issue.
My conclusion is that the 7.8Kw norminal rating for a 6Kw deye is for the internal charge controller and not mppt/2 as i also previously thought. After all, they did not state this in their document anywhere.
Now... their could be reasons where you want to use only one mppt like in my case. Their will also be many reasons where I will want to use the 2 mppts like if I have enough panels, if cost of running cable for another string is no issue or if the installation is such that sun shines on one part of the roof in the morning and the other part later in the day and i need to take advantage of the two sides.
Hope this helps.

Based on specifications, what you experienced is normal.. it can output 6500w maximum.

13A x 500V on each tracker. Is 6500w
That's 120A charging at 48V norminal which is the maximum it can charge.

But don't expect it to output 6500 on both trackers to give 13kw.. it will simply throttle them to 3250w each and output 6500w.

That's why it's written maximum full Load 250V per tracker. So if you have like 13kw. The trackers will work at 250V /13A + 250V/13A which is 6500w

Just like Epever allows you to use 2 tracker as 1, or allow them to operate as independent 2 tracker, output is still limited to maximum output.

DaniellaDokubo:


From experience your panels wont get you much of what is on the name plate wattage. I use imported premium panels and my data logger has showed the panels could get only a paltry 60% of its designed capacity. This is after observing the production for a period of time on daily basis.

Way forward is to oversize your PV system but not the Voc as that is the only thing that is always higher than the name plate value when it is in use. Don't waste your money on any premium anything.

Lol, na fake imported you bought, or you don't have correct orientation.. panels do way more during peaks.

UnfairLife7:
lol

Tell your epistle to 95% of Nigerians that cannot boast of 500k in their bank account. Tell that to over 95% of Nigerians that cannot afford 3 square meal daily. You can aswell tell that to millions of unemployed graduates littered all over the country.

Make people in UK save £500k first

Obnoxious2001:


It's the repair and maintenance people are running from...

The money you saved initially, you will vomit it when you want to repair it .

Standalone gives you the advantage of easy repair or conversion. Even if I can convert your hybrid, I will not bother doing it.....

Which repair and maintenance?

This is like saying Laptops are not good because once your board has issues you have to replace the whole board.

You can use a Laptop as CPU only, same with Hybrid, you can decide to buy external Charge controller and chargers it your choice.

Amador1:

Okay thanks a lot. Let me wait till this weekend to see if he will reply or not so that later he won’t come online and say I was impatient. Will give you a call first thing next week if he doesn’t respond. Once again thanks a lot

Hence my response, I believe he will reply, just be patient.

Emmypam:
it's a PWM 60A charge controller.
If i may ask, why won't 200 watts be suitable? Because i already have bought two 200 watts panel few months back

Your information self, you said 30A, and planning 200w.. now it's 60A, and you have 2, 200w already na wa oo.

Anyways you need a panel with 17/18V VMP for best efficiency. If your 200w is similar then it's fine.
Post the panel spec sheet.

Emmypam:
PLEASE HELP
I have a 1KVA Hybrid inverter, it comes with 30 amps charge controller. I also have a 220Ah battery.
I use a total load of 100-150 watts
I'm planning on getting 200 watts panels to enable me charge my battery to 100% daily, how many 200 watts panels would i need?

I guess you have a PWM 30A controller

You can get 3 or 4, 150watt panels, you need a panel with 17/18V VMP.
200w may not be suitable.

Amador1:

No I don’t have a voltage meter with me except I ask around or I place an order for one.
My location is Lagos surulere

Okay, you can reach out on 23481-323-94478, you don't need to buy.

I can help check if you don't get response from the pack builder.

Amador1:

I’ve opened the battery and these are the pictures I took before closing it back. Please if anyone knows where Or who can help get it fixed, please do recommend. I have to revert back to my generator now in this current fuel scarcity wahala.

You have 2p14s configuration, Li-ion or NMC

I don't know how technical you are?
Do you have a voltage meter?

Check the individual voltage.

What is the BMS showing now?

Seems your BMS failed or failing.

Where is your location?

Jefferyzz:
Budget

So you quote 103k for 60A CC and 92k 3000w which is 1500w continuous

An Hybrid inverter cost 200k
80A MPPT, 1.6KW 2KVA with 60A AC Charge, editable settings for LFP.