eghos12:
I would have liked to buy 10mm but the owner already bought 6mm Cable would the loss of current be negligible

I would advice that u tell him to go get a 10mm cable, so that he won't push everything on ur head if the installation goes south or something awful happens in the future. Though 6mm should also suffice sha but if he wish to upgrade, then cable upgrade will be required

eghos12:


Okay so if I parallel them together and have 36v 27amps on 6mm cable would there still be issue

Yeah, u will have a total of 24.9amps and use10mm cable instead

eghos12:
please can 300w panel of 8.3 amps of 3 pieces blow up a charge controller of 45amps75v max

Yes, it can if the 3panels are wired in series instead of parallel connection, wiring d 3panels in series will exceed d input voltage of the controller.

HeavenlyBang:
A 1 HP AC is on. Along with a fridge and freezer. 310w. Inverter technology is a must with solar.

Have u added more solar panels to ur initial string

TCD:
Hello guys,

could you please recommend alternative brands of hybrid inverters that have [b]Grid electricity, Solar and Generator [/b]inputs and is able to switch between the three based on settings?

I know deye inverters have these feature but deye is pricy.

Thank you

12kw SRNE inverter has this feature u looking for, have installed one before n it's pretty cool

Dam5reey1:
Ignorance!

12V 100ah LFP Batteries support series and parallel!

https://youtube.com/shorts/2MiQrozAxRc?si=g_GtmJV4qgshDy_-

This bros just dey play on people's intelligence here sha.... if it is 100Ah series together, then what is 12v doing in the statement? I expected to see 24v 100Ah battery, isn't it?

easyyoke:


It is a 60A controller. If I use 2s3p configuration, what size of wire will be appropriate to carry 41.58A over a distance of 15m

Use 10mm cable but if u thinking of adding more in the future, then 16mm cable is ur best bet

easyyoke:
Experts in the house, If a solar charge controller has a maximum Voltage VOC input of 108v(Even though the spec document further says MPPT Voltage Range = 30-95VDC). What is the best configuration for me to connect 6 identical solar panels with each panels having the following specs. Voc = 39.38V and Isc 13.86A into the charge controller without burning the controller.

Before I will align with the 2s3p, first of all, what is the amperage of the controller? If it is above 50amps, then ur best bet is 2s3p otherwise u might have problem using 20, 30 or 40amps controller for d connection

Iinnov8:
If you love our Powmr MPPT Solar Charge Controller, then you will love our Powmr 12.8v 100ah (1.28kwh) LiFePO4 battery.

- Comes with a free external voltage meter to show battery voltage
- Made with Rept Grade A cells
- BMS (Battery Management System) gives a maximum charging current of 50A and a maximum continuous discharge current of 100A. But it can also support a discharge of 200A for 3 seconds. BMS offers relevant protection against over-charging, over-discharge, overload, etc.
- Operating voltage range is 10v - 14.6v, but BMS cuts off at 9.1v, lower than the LVD (Low Voltage Disconnect) of most inverters, so inverter will have no issues "waking up" after a shut down
- Can be connected in series or parallel to give 12v, 24v, 36v, 48v

Test report and Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) in below folder:
https://drive.google.com/drive/u/2/folders/1r-85fLgUKdI-Y2HEB5hQznxLETklUdfD

Video test/review Part 1:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTtdMd25__s
Credits: Dam5reey

Summary of video test:
- After full charge, battery gave a run-time of 7hrs 30mins on an average load of 150w before reaching its nominal voltage of 12.8V (recommended 80% Depth of Discharge [DoD]).
- At inverter LVD of 11.3v, battery had ran for 9hrs 16mins on same load, giving 105ah.
- Then it gave another run-time of 1hr 30mins on a DC average load of 20w, giving 107ah (7% more than its rated capacity) before BMS LVD. This discharge test was done twice and capacity remained the same

On another simple test (link to be provided later), battery gave a run time of 7hrs 16mins on an average load of 190w (2 units of 100w yellow bulbs)

Price: 300,000 290,000
Warranty: 3 years

For clarity n learning sake, this capacity test defiled what isangjohnson said in one of his posts that the real capacity test n the true battery capacity exist within the green range of 3.0v (12.0) - 3.4v(13.6)


So please help someone elaborate

isangjohnson:
Let me look for a way and drop a clearer picture

Abeg bros, stop arguing with that man until he does what u asked of him since the 4kwh stuff up till d recent claims, you've done enough that's audible to the dumb n so glaring to the blind that you're on d right track..... it's crystal clear that he doesn't have any proof to tender cos I do not know another definition of scam if not to raise false claims just to deceitfully dupe innocent persons of their money

isangjohnson:

This is what I did to my 160ah cells. I sold some of these cells to some members here and some of them still have this picture.

You're on the right track my brother, I do not know or see how someone that is seeking transparency or querying acclaimed authenticity of a product a bad person... d unfortunate thing is that people like you are uncommon, so many people will rather keep mute, knowing fully well that a person is fraudulent, but since some members here also benefit from some dubious runs. That's why it's better to do due diligence when somebody here refers another person, probably maybe dem dey get percentage on top every referrer. 1kobo advise to u Isangjohnson, my brother, when u fight corruption, corruption will fight back brutally, so be careful n be watchful

obitobe:


Thank you for your response, i have battery equalizer installed to the batteries and also the system is a 24 voltage system. I thought my batteries were already getting weak.

Recheck n confirm that the battery equaliser is installed correctly cos I don't see it performing it functions of equalising the battery voltage according to the voltages u shared earlier.... ordinarily you're not suppose to have any disparity between the battery voltages...

With the individual battery voltage u shared, nothing is actually wrong with ur system, u only need to add/install a battery equaliser/balancer to ur system n everything will be fine. Ur 48volt inverter will continue to run provided that the battery voltage is still above 10.5v per piece, once the inverter detects a voltage drop of below 10.50v it would off itself... ur installer ought to have equalised the battery before installing them though

obitobe:
Please i need expert knowledge here, i have four 220ah tubular battery, i just noticed that when the battery is fully charge and i start using it for the night, @136w(5pm-10pm) and 98w ( 10pm -7am). i noticed that the battery will be 24.2v @2-3am then between 3-4am the battery voltage drops to 23.4v and this will get me to the morning. Recently i had to set the battery SOC from 50% to 70% because at 50% the battery goes off at 5-5:30am but at 70% it takes me till the morning. What could be causing the sharp drop in voltage.

With a battery monitor, i am getting this readings in the morning Batt 1: 11.95v Batt 2: 10.99v batt 3: 10.95v Batt 4: 11.94v

Mrreed:
If i might ask, are there no long term consequences for using motor and induction appliances on high frequency inverter?

I don't think there could be any effect more so, I don't use it everyday, just once in a while when the sun is so intense

EduTechTainMent:


Your LFP is 24v or 12v sir?

24v

HeavenlyBang:


I did, it just draws from battery and panel output doesn't rise.

It's bizzare, since after about an hour everything suddenly went back to normal.

My brother, add an additional 580watt panel to ur existing array n everything will hence go smoothly. I'm also using that brand n type of ur inverter and I have 5pieces of 400watt on it n on a good sunny day I use the system to power my 2kw electric kettle n sometimes inductive hotplate self, those two appliances draw 1,300+ from my panel n then draws additional 900+watt from my 5.888kwh lfp pack cos my freezer is always in use with any of the said appliances...but in a hot afternoon when I use my 1000watt philip iron + freezer, my battery will keep charging at around 100w+ while I consume 1.2kw+ from my panel for the said load... all in all, my 2kw panel have never gone above 1.365kw in this rainy season, though I'm yet to experience dry season harvest sha

Juror:


Please breakdown how you arrived at your installation and accessories, budget 150k to 200k

I second this too, I wanna know how he arrived at 150-200k for installation and Accessories abeg

HeavenlyBang:


That's a terrible quote.

Your load isn't that much, I have similar load that I run off a 3.3KVA SRNE inverter.

As long as you don't plan on running your AC, washing machine, and all other electronics simultaneously, I don't see why you'd need anything over the 3.5KVA range.

AC+washing machine is around 1600w. Every other load you listed is about 700w at most.

Unless you also want to future proof.

Personally, I'd go with

- 3-4KVA 24v hybrid inverter (400k) or 5KVA 48v hybrid (~550k)
- 5*580w Jinko panels (860k)
- Valto's 24v 7.6kwh battery at 1.55m or his 8.8kwh 48v battery at 1.7m

24v system will be cheaper. You do lose out slightly on efficiency compared to 48v, plus more cable costs. I'd say around 3.1m should get you a capable 24v system.

Please how do check ur daily pv generation or accumulated solar panel harvest on ur 3.3kw SRNE inverter?

Ferdiwar:
Update on my setup.

Sometime last month I connected all my AC to the smart load of my inverter, and noticed that the inverter was going off and on repeatedly for like 5x before stabilizing back on. This would happen severely in a day before the sun goes down as I discovered it only happens during the day.

As a result I reverted back to the previous connection and disabled the smart load thinking that was my issue, but it still persisted, so I did some reading online and concluded it might be a software bug.

I emailed Deye and requested for diagnosis and update which they did by pushing a remote firmware update to the inverter, yet the issue continued (in my mind I was like I spent huge money to buy a faulty batch of an expensive inverter). I sent an update email yesterday to Deye explaining that the issue is not yet resolved (yet to get an update though) after it happened for the 2nd time in the morning (around 11am). At this point I thought it wise to calm down and observe the inverter when next it happens rather than be angry, so I stayed put in front of the inverter and watched it.

Few minutes later it happened again this time around I was watching the screen and boom I caught it in the act and it happens to be that the voltages of 2 strings of panels attached to the 2 MPPTs of the inverter exceeded the max 500v of the inverter (string 1 5x Longi 570w panels was pumping 240v+ as at that time while string 2 5x Jinko 625w panels were pushing over 265v both exceeding the 500v max voltage).

As I saw that I quickly switched off string 1 breaker and the inverter stabilized instantly which suggests that the input of the 2 MPPTs are somehow connected in series or something like that as one of the MPPTs can take 500v alone but the 2 MPPTs combined together is still 500v.

No matter what you do, do not exceed the max voltage of your inverter and take not of the tolerance of the VOC of your panels when connecting your panels to your CC or inverter to avoid stories just in case your inverter or CC is not equipped to handle any form voltage spike above the rated max voltage of the inverter or CC.


@Jonescosmos the 500v is for the 2 MPPTs after all

I think for SRNE inverters, it isn't like this, infact in one of the installations i had with an SRNE inverter with 8pcs of 550watt jinko panels per string n yet nothing of such has ever happened

jonescosmos:
People ended up buying Lithium Batteries from random places at a too good to be through prices.

I personally discovered that some sellers harvest cells and replace with lesser capacity cells (I kid you not, fear Alaba Market People)
We often times look at China as a major source of fake products. Truth is, those guys actually have Quality Control Department that works. But our people will always find a way to infiltrate facilities.

Any Felicity Product you see with Internal defects or cell mismatch and etc must have been tampered after it left factory.

I can show you my chats with Felicity Engineers, where they give a go ahead to open up a product and show them what I found inside and through that most times they have confirmed to me genuine components and fakes.

See this new 25KW that was recently brought into the market, I have made verification from Felicity about the cells and they said its packaged with REPT Cells and this particular 500A Grade A >8000 cycle cell is not yet in the market because REPT must satisfy OEM factories contracts before selling to open markets, let's wait a few months and see what cells you will see from the Alaba Market Sources.

Try to visit Felicity service centers you will understand better.

When buying felicity products, buy from them directly, e get why

Please do you have the contact of their major dealer in Nigeria..... some vendors that advertise on this thread are too temperamental to deal with, some shout n yell at a potential client on phone as if they are forced to open a shop

kristien4:
My jinko 580w watts making me proud.
Rated 13.6amp at STC producing 13amps..

A string or 2 strings of panels connected in series n parallel?

jonescosmos:


10mm PV Cables for such a small unit? Honestly? Why do this?. You will loos energy bro.
The most practical wire for solar panels is PV1-F 750V-1000V Anti-Stretch Shielded Outdoor solar cable, this cable is most common in 4mm2 and 6mm2. A very rough rule of thumb is for arrays of less than 20A can use 4mm2, and 20A or larger should use 6mm2. If a larger size is required, it is recommended to run twice from the array to the solar controller.

U didn't capture distance in ur calculations boss cos of voltage loss

[quote author=HeavenlyBang post=129875293]

Jinko 580w. 11.68A NOCT ISC. STC ISC is 14A.


What's the max current you've gotten at peak hour

mctfopt:


I've done this before and it ended in tears. I did parallel Longi 450W with 11.60A Isc. The Growatt will be working fine until sun hears it's peak and it sees 22A and then enters into error mode and shut down after 3 minutes or so

But a lot of people in here were of the opinion that its only voc of the inverter that one mustn't go beyond that going above the rated current guarge will not harm the inverter... but still how did resolve the code ?

HeavenlyBang:


Power is power, regardless of voltage/current split.

My inverter is limited to 13A, my PVs max out at 11.5A, but I don't think I've ever gotten more than 9A in the real world.

Still I run a 1 HP inverter AC in the afternoon comfortably without the inverter drawing any power from my battery.

What brand n wattage is ur pv? Is the 11.5amps ISc or Imax?

toscotech:
Powmr 60a for sale

Price?

jonescosmos:


The bolded claim is not correct sir. 6500w is the combination power of both MPPTs

Maybe Deye is different then, cos I'm 100% aware that for SRNE, their 2 MPPT trackers are independent of the max input pv of 6500watt, 125v nominal voltage and 500v max pv n attached is my proof

Ferdiwar:
Please I need your input on Deye inverter specs.

Mine is the 5kw with 2 MPPTs, the specs reads;

Max PV input power of 6500w.
PV input voltage 370vdc (125vdc - 500vdc).
PV input current 13Adc + 13Adc.

Now I understand that the input current is 13A for both MPPTs but I don't know if same is the case for the input voltage.

My question is "is the 370v (125v - 500v) for each of the MPPTs or a combined voltage for both MPPTs"?

I want to increase my panels wants to know if I can still add to already existing setup or make provision for an external CC.

The 2 MPPT trackers are 6500watt apart and the 370v (125 - 500v) is for individual MPPT tracker n not combined. So in total, ur 2 MPPT trackers can take 6,500watt x 2 = 13kw all together

Ferdiwar:
Isc or Imp? Cause but are totally different.

High frequency SRNE hybrid inverter with 500v, 13amps... the amperage of the PV input is rated at 13amps

Penuelseun:
JA Solar 460w is around 11a

Have checked the datasheet n even the 470watt ja solar is 11.53amps ISc n 50.31v at VOC... abeg bro, do u have contact details of a trusted ja solar panel dealers

HeavenlyBang:


Just connect in series...

Also, unlike voltage, current needs to be drawn. Even if your setup is supplying 25A isc, your Growatt will only pull the 22A it's limited to. You still lose some power but not much.

My SRNE has a max input of 13A but a 500v VOC, so I just ran my PVs in series.

Infact, I'm also at the Cross road on this subject matter, though it's already written on the manual that high ISC of the solar panel will not affect the inverter but my concern is that, why waste energy when I could get a panel with ISC of 13amps n below... abeg help share a panel with ISC less than 13amps

Hit me up, I reside in Ibadan 08025911622

de3lar:
Any reliable Solar installer based in Ibadan here?