@viperman: a steady CEL will usually not result in degraded performance; however, like I said, a "flashing" CEL would. You would only know what sensor (if the fault is indeed sensor-related) to replace by hooking your car up to an OBDII scanner and reading out the fault code(s). BTW, a sensor cannot be repaired, only replaced,

and oh, the sound COULD be timing chain-related, possibly the tensioner. There's a TSB on the Sonata V6 regarding this. you could read it here: http://www.jerrystout.us/sonata/tsb/timing_chain_tensioner_replacement.pdf. Good luck!

viperman:

Yo siena,

If the oxygen sensor is faulty, does the engine make a cranky sounds for a few seconds when you start the car and then comes back to normal sound? or is that something else?

viperman: a faulty O2 sensor will result in a steady CEL (check engine light), but other than that AFAIK it should not produce anything that could be felt or heard like the brief rattling sound you're describing. But I would be worried if the sound is accompanied by a blinking CEL.

As to the sound - an engine standing all night (or for any long periods) would not have as much oil coating its internals (because of gravity, with the oil settling at the bottom). So the cranking sound that you are hearing at startup is probably friction between metals, which goes away as soon as the oil circulates within.

most probably a cracked/damaged spark plug gasket/seal on the cylinder head which is allowing oil to seep through.

Can you get an after-cat oxygen sensor for a 2000 Honda CR-V? How about a steering rack assembly for the same make and model? I am also looking for Honda Z1 auto transmission fluid, can you get them as well? Terms and conditions of payment and delivery? Warranties?

Better yet, indicate your email address here so that we could send our requests and questions to you directly. Thanks!

kladder:

@shagati:


Please can you help my Toyota Corrolla is showing check engine.

Please hat can i do i have done the servicing and all.

@kladder: here, you might find this thread useful: https://www.nairaland.com/nigeria/topic-399021.0.html

there are some very useful responses there regarding check engine lights (CELs). refer to it before some person who likes to "shag" an "ati" (whatever the heck that is) pull off another parrot, "pointing you to the river" stunt, good luck!

Shagati:

Right
Sometimes, when one asks for food and is given a fish, that's all he really wants at that point not to be directed to the Library of Congress to reasearch on the fine art of fishing.
I know it may be a little hard for you to comprehend but matey; it's true.

Gimme a bloody fish first then while I'm turning it into correct peppersoup, you can unburden yourself by pointing the way to the damn river Mr I-know-the-answer-but-will-still-be-obnoxious-while-not-helping-you! ! ! ! ! ! !

Always Shagati

@shagati: First of all, Mr Genius, you did not directly answer the poster's question - you merely rode on my response (you probably did not know what to say anyway). Which you AGAIN did with your last post here: you merely repeated (like a give-me-my-biscuit-then-I-would-say-I-gave-the-original-answer parrot) what @arsenal4va said.

And about your "enlightening-as-Confucius" fish parable, hear this: "it is better to teach a man how to fish than to merely give him fish, for if you only give him fish he would only have let him live for a day; whereas if you teach him how to fish you give him the chance to live the rest of his life." And that is from YC James Yen (you probably did not know that, Mr Parrot).

So sit down before you give yourself a paper cut while typing on your keyboard.   

@all4gold: from your post I assume that you're driving an auto trans, right? so steering vibrates when from standstill, you press the brakes to release the transmission lock to engage Drive? Does it only happen during cold starts?

It might not have anything to do with your steering - could be more about the transmission. First thing you should check is the auto transmission fluid condition and level. When was the last time you had a transmission flush? If you recently did, did you use the prescribed ATF for the make and model of your car?

@shagati: you learn a lot about your vehicle by reading the manual, it's the first thing you should consult when you have a problem. it's not that i do not KNOW how to do a simple maintenance light reset, or that I do not want to tell the poster how to do it, I am simply pointing out the fact that the answer IS in the manual. you do not need to be sarcastic (and an a$$wipe) about it.

You have to reset the maintenance required light after you service your Honda. The procedure on how to do the reset is in your car's service manual.

Haven't a foggiest idea how much it would be here in Nigeria. In some cases, the service center would (should?) not even charge you anything, especially if you are going to get the part that need replacing from them as well.

Anyway, estimated cost? Hmmmm, MAYBE around N2k to N3k,

The best place to go would be your car make's service center (eg Camrys would be the Toyota Service Center, etc). OBDC readers should be pretty common fare in these centers nowadays, since onboard computers with OBDC ports have been around since 1998 IIRC.

TIP: In some vehicles, as simple as not tightening the gas cap enough could result in a CEL. As rule of thumb, make sure that you hear the gas cap click at least 5-6 times when putting it back after you fill up. But like I said, this is just one of the things you could watch out for,

Some people avoid white on their vehicles because of the perceived low value attached to white-colored vehicles. If you would notice, the "cheapest" cars of even the newest models off the production lines are of the basic colors, specifically whites and blacks. Colored cars (i.e., reds, maroons, blues, silvers, etc) fetch a higher premium.

And of course, also the preceived "difficulty" of maintaining a white vehicle clean, which is actually a myth dark-colored cars are even more difficult to maintain. but that's another issue,

Can't really say since i do not know your fuel consumption before and after the CEL turning on, and also your maintenance habit (i.e., change oil interval, spark plug changing, tune-up schedule, etc).

But right off the bat, and assuming that you follow the recommended maintenance schedule, it's safe to say that the drop in fuel mileage could be because of the malfunction detected by the CEL (the CEL itself is not a malfunction, it's an INDICATOR of a malfunction).

So like I suggested, have your CEL error code read ASAP, and post here what the resulting code or codes are.

Good luck!

Your problem could have been as simple as a loose horn grounding wire located within your steering wheel/assembly. When you start your car in the morning, the grounding wire could have settled from the night before and makes good contact. As you go about during the day, with all the "twisting and turning" of your steering wheel, the wire could get loose, which is probably why you associate having no horn "as the engine gets hot".

In any case, you should not have had just any mechanic tamper with your airbag/SRS-equipped steering wheel without proper equipment and/or proper procedure. Any mishandling could lead to accidental deployment of airbag when not needed, or non-deployment when needed, which is very dangerous in both cases. As your SRS light is now constantly on, it indicates that the SRS system has detected a malfunction. So your simple horn problem might become a bigger one, but hopefully not so.

Good luck!

A Check Engine Light (CEL) could mean a number of things. The best way to make sure is to have the code read using OBDC II reader. In most cases, however, if the CEL stays on (not blinking) it has something to do with the emissions system of your car (i.e., busted oxygen sensor, loose gas cap, bad catalytic converter, etc). If it is blinking, then it is something worse, usually with the engine.

Depending on the system affected, a CEL staying on could lead to higher fuel consumption, loss of power, bad emission, etc. Would suggest to have the error code read as soon as possible.

After you have had your CEL code(s) read, search through net of what the code means (there's plenty of resource materials about CELs). This would give you a better idea of how to go about fixing it.

Hope this helps.

do you do swaps? am looking to swap my expat-maintained 2001 Honda CRV to a later model Rav4 (2003 up) or another CRV (also 2003 up). If os, what do I do and how much do I need to add?

Btw, you are doing a great service to this forum. Keep it up!

I would tend to agree with @joy2dwise: although "lowballing" is a generally accepted practice when it comes to online negotiations, we might also want to consider "what if we are the one selling?", in this case @abbas71, if you were the one selling this 2003 Montero, will you give it at 850k? I do not think so, what i am saying is that although this is a generally free market, let our conscience - and our common sense - be our guides so that we could reach an amicable compromise between seller and buyer.

just my two cents on this,

anyhow, @ispeed, thanks for the clarification about the pictures. I might have somebody interested in the SUV. Will let you know.

Peace all!

@ispeed: are you sure that the pictures are of the same vehicle? Strangely enough, the interior pictures are different: take note of the speedometer and tachometer dials - one is regular, black-faced and the other is white-faced; additionally, the 4x4 shifters in the two pictures are also different, so which one are you really selling

Thanks web_master, will watch out for your updates here.

@web_master: Any updates on this?

@web_master: Do keep us posted on how much it all took to change your ATF. Could you also ask if they sell just the Mobil ATF? I would probably go to Honda Place one of these days, it's just a PITA to go down there from Ibadan. I also find it amazing that a Honda dealer will be using a third-party ATF and not the Honda ATF-Z1.

Make sure as well that they use the Mobil 1 SYNTHETIC ATF and NOT the Multi-Vehicle one or other types, they are quite different,

By the way, I did some research on substitutes for the Honda ATF-Z1, and it would seem that the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF would be a very good choice (check this link: https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobil_1_Synthetic_ATF.aspx), since it looks like no one knows where we can get the original Honda ATF-Z1 here. Please note of transmission exception for Honda vehicles in the link (not applicable for CVTs).

I am guessing that reputable Mobil gas stations in Lagos would be selling this, i hope!  

bump

I also need this for my CR-V! Somebody, anybody, please help with the needed info,

I thought you indicated significant REDUCTION? Then why the significant INCREASE in the asking prices of the Montero and Landrover (from 1m to 1.595m)?

Hi guyz!

Could somebody here point me where I could buy original Honda parts for my CR-V? I am relatively new in Nigeria and I work/live in Ibadan. Any point in Lagos is fine, but somewhere closer would even be better, as long as they are certified original Honda parts dealers. I might soon need to change a lot of things in my ride (i.e., transmission and power steering fluids, brake pads and rotors, shock absorbers, oxygen sensors, etc).

Clear directions/exact addresses or even a map (if possible) would be greatly appreciated

Thanks and more power to Nairaland!

@bisoyeg

you'e the man! thanks for the help.

jtoliver

hi again @bisoyeg,

Reposting. Would you kindly check this VIN for me: JHLRD2848YC018211.

Thanks and more power to you!

Hi bisoyeg,

Would you kindly check this VIN for me: JHLRD2848YC018211. Would be much obliged.