Dam5reey:


Tubular 48V 200AH 9600WH = LFP 51.2V 100AH 5120WH
@50 DOD for Tubular Useable capacity is 4800WH
@90 DOD for LFP useable capacity is 4608WH

So in terms of pricing, they are very close.
Tubular 48V 200AH is around 1.2M
LFP 51.2V 100AH is around 1.3M

abbeymighty:

Thank you for your response, but how many kwh will the lithium bat3 be?
i.e if am to buy 48v what kwh?

bigrovar:


Like everyone have added, you need to review your electrical fault system including your earthing. You said you had your earthing done, have you had the earthing independently tested to ensure that it is within the recommended resistance required of a TT earth system (which is pretty much what we practice in Nigeria)

You should also ensure that the earth point for all your electrical socket are well terminated, and those terminations are still functional. You can use a multimeter to carry out basic testhing. In my case I run the connect the red probe to the live, and neutral, note down the voltage (which should be around 230v) then I do this same this time with red to live and black probe to earth / ground (the top part of your electrical socket) it should also read 230v. This will let you know the socket it connected to a sort of ground. (It would not tell you how active your earthing is but it is a good indicator)

Light bulb test can also help, get an incandescent light bulb and connect it to live and earth. A well lit bulb indicate decent earthing. Run this across most of your socket to ensure they are well terminated to earth.

Non of the above test should replace a proper earth resistance test which can only be done with proper tooling and by a competent technician. Often time, NEPA officials tend to have this tool so you might want to reach out to your local NEPA office .. you might be able to have someone come run a test on your setup (off the record).

I attached a picture of my previous earthing setup.

For a TT system 200 ohms and below is recommended but anything below 100 ohms is ideal. The earth resistent tester should carry out test of the earth electrode and also check resistant from central earth bar (from your db)

Lastly on the Main Earth Neutral Bonding (MEN). This is not recommended for a TT system. A TT system is technically suppose to have MEN happen between your earth electrode (earth rod) and transformer neutral. The connection between your earth rod and the transformer neutral is meant to happen through the mass of the earth.. basically the soil / ground between your ground rod and your transformer ground (which is bonded to the neutral that comes into your house. (See the attached diagram)

You are suppose to have only 1 MEN in a circuit to ensure that ground loop fault have just 1 path of return. Bonding Earth to neutral in your DB creates multiple fault path because it technically means you have multiple Main earth to neutral.

Lastly, you might want to try installing an RCD to or an ELCB. The latter to detect earth leakage, the former to detect a fault in the system and trip (in other to save life)

Be careful though RCD can become a nuisance if your electrical connection is not properly made.

bigrovar:


Like everyone have added, you need to review your electrical fault system including your earthing. You said you had your earthing done, have you had the earthing independently tested to ensure that it is within the recommended resistance required of a TT earth system (which is pretty much what we practice in Nigeria)

You should also ensure that the earth point for all your electrical socket are well terminated, and those terminations are still functional. You can use a multimeter to carry out basic testhing. In my case I run the connect the red probe to the live, and neutral, note down the voltage (which should be around 230v) then I do this same this time with red to live and black probe to earth / ground (the top part of your electrical socket) it should also read 230v. This will let you know the socket it connected to a sort of ground. (It would not tell you how active your earthing is but it is a good indicator)

Light bulb test can also help, get an incandescent light bulb and connect it to live and earth. A well lit bulb indicate decent earthing. Run this across most of your socket to ensure they are well terminated to earth.

Non of the above test should replace a proper earth resistance test which can only be done with proper tooling and by a competent technician. Often time, NEPA officials tend to have this tool so you might want to reach out to your local NEPA office .. you might be able to have someone come run a test on your setup (off the record).

I attached a picture of my previous earthing setup.

For a TT system 200 ohms and below is recommended but anything below 100 ohms is ideal. The earth resistent tester should carry out test of the earth electrode and also check resistant from central earth bar (from your db)

Lastly on the Main Earth Neutral Bonding (MEN). This is not recommended for a TT system. A TT system is technically suppose to have MEN happen between your earth electrode (earth rod) and transformer neutral. The connection between your earth rod and the transformer neutral is meant to happen through the mass of the earth.. basically the soil / ground between your ground rod and your transformer ground (which is bonded to the neutral that comes into your house. (See the attached diagram)

You are suppose to have only 1 MEN in a circuit to ensure that ground loop fault have just 1 path of return. Bonding Earth to neutral in your DB creates multiple fault path because it technically means you have multiple Main earth to neutral.

Lastly, you might want to try installing an RCD to or an ELCB. The latter to detect earth leakage, the former to detect a fault in the system and trip (in other to save life)

Be careful though RCD can become a nuisance if your electrical connection is not properly made.

brightk:


The big boss.. am tempted to ask where do we bond this our EARH TO NEUTRAL. I understand that the live and neutral wire from nepa pole end up @ ur meter unit where it is drawn to the db.. Most houses have just one db which powers the entire home. and i know for sure you can only have one EARTH TO NEUTRAL bonding..

isangjohnson:
I need original Canadian panels to be shipped to Uyo.
Who has a link to where I can get the original one?
Fouani store doesn't have 580w at the moment?

Dam5reey:
Available for sale: Abule Egba Lagos.
+234,8132394478


Mercury Modified Sinewave Inverter/Charger
24V - Needs 2 units of 12V batteries.
2400VA ~ 1.44KW Continous
20A AC Charger inbuilt
100K negiotiable

Review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrJgG2EaOZg

olopan:
TECHLAND SHOULD HAVE SOME

bigrovar:
Selling off some excess solar panels and inverter.

Deye 8kw Brand new = 2.3m
Axpert 5kva used = 350k (sold)
4 x 540w 480k (in a bundle) available only FCT
2 x midnite SPD 600v 180K each.

Product and details available here.

https://x.com/bigbrovar/status/1800587475468882317

SaintUlot:
FOR SALE

This 12v pure sine wave inverter has the capacity to power 4 freezers @ the same time.

Capacity: 6000w Surge capacity and 2750w Actual capacity

Dc to Ac conversion efficiency : 90 - 95%
Idle consumption - 0.3 amp

It is a Non-grid tied Inverter. It powers Inductive and non-inductive loads seamlessly.

In the test video below, I used it to power all these appliances @ the same time:

👉 One normal freezer
👉 1hp pumping machine
👉charge spare battery
👉 one 32inch TV with Decoder
👉 2 medium sized fans
👉1 big ox fan

Then I switched off only the pumping machine to plug in the 1200w pressing iron


I have just one left, If you are interested in buying it, call or WhatsApp 08035537864



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Rap3bnI07g

Drgreatone:

Bros pls take it easy on this reposting na... U spamming the thread. Sure whoever is interested wud av reached out to you

dollarnaira:
Original Jinko solar panels.
Authorize dealer.
Delivery available nationwide.
Pay on delivery, LAGOS ONLY.

475WATTS JINKO SOLAR PANELS-140,000
550WATTS JINKO SOLAR PANELS-155,000 out of stock
555 WATTS JINKO SOLAR PANELS-160,000
580WATTS JINKO SOLAR PANELS-175,000
625WATTS JINKO SOLAR PANELS-185,000

bigrovar:


In a TT system earth to neutral bonding happens between the consumer ground rod, and the ground rod installed at the NEPA transformer that serves your house. The neutral (that comes into your house from NEPA) and Earth electrode (installed at the transformer) is *suppose* to be bonded together. That transformer earth electrode/rod is connected to your house earth electrode (rod) using the mass of the soil / earth between them. The soil acts as the connector. Faults that goes into your earth rod finds its way to the transformer neutral via the transformer earth rod.

For this to work though, the earthing at the transformer level has to be properly done and not more than 5ohms in resistance. It most also be bonded to the neutral supplied from the same transformer and into your house.

Unfortunately, the above is not always the case, we see situation where transformer earthing is not properly done or the neutral is not bonded to it thus making the transformer run a floating neutral.

There is a test for checking if your electrode is bonded to your neutral (via the transformer ground) in a TT system. It is called ground impudence test. This test checks how much resistance exist between your earth rod and the transformer neutral. I don't know much about this impudence test but a competent ground tester should be able to check it out for you.

If you use an inverter, most inverters have MEN relays for when your inverter is operating offgrid or in island mode (in this case disconnected from NEPA) I know for sure that Axpert and SRNE have this MEN relay. It works by bonding ground to neutral when your system is off-grid or when NEPA is disconnected thus ensuring you maintain your earth to neutral bonding. The relay pretty much connects neutral to earth when NEPA goes and disconnects it when NEPA is on.

Some inverters like DEYE don't have this MEN relay hence allowing your system run in what is called floating neutral. You can use an external contactor to fix this but that is another rabbit hole.

jonescosmos:
Please post the side sticker of your Inverter, or send the specific datasheet or model of your inverter.

From the pictures you attached your model is either SUN-3.6KSG03LP1-EU, SUN-5KSG03LP1-EU or SUN-6KSG03LP1-EU

If yes, then bolded is a confirmation that your inverter has just 2 MPPT with 1 string each and both trackers should be independent with a Max ISc of 17A each.

I hope one of your PVs is not shorted or leaking power to the frame.

Please take a look at the attached Datasheet.

Ferdiwar:
Yes mine is the SUN-5K-SG03LP1-EU model with 2 MPPTs.

The Longi string is connected to MPPT 1 while the Jinko string is connected to the MPPT 2.

Will have the installer check for leakage to the frame when he's back.

Drgreatone:

Bros pls take it easy on this reposting na... U spamming the thread. Sure whoever is interested wud av reached out to you

Ferdiwar:
Yes mine is the SUN-5K-SG03LP1-EU model with 2 MPPTs.

The Longi string is connected to MPPT 1 while the Jinko string is connected to the MPPT 2.

Will have the installer check for leakage to the frame when he's back.

jonescosmos:
How my set up looks now.

jonescosmos:
How my set up looks now.

TechGeek777:


Money is water to some people, 75kwh is no joke, enjoy your setup bro.

Snap your MCCB and enclosure box for clearer view

jonescosmos:
How my set up looks now.

isangjohnson:

Jonescosmos don vex again.

TechGeek777:


Money is water to some people, 75kwh is no joke, enjoy your setup bro.

Snap your MCCB and enclosure box for clearer view

isangjohnson:

What happened to your former batteries?

noel76:
Good morning house, please i need inverter expert help in here, i have an eco solar 3.5kva 48v inverter, 3 days ago during the rain d light went off and refused to stay on, it always trip off went d inverter is powered on, and d display is showing "fuse trip" how do i go about it? D inverter uses 4 batteries and 8 solar panels