FRESHTWANYE:
Please professional help me I just install 2.4kw pure sinewave mercury hybrid inverter using it with dstv xtraview decoder, the primary decoder working perfectly but the secondary decoder didn't work and loss connection with the primary decoder heart beat. But using it with grid or generator works perfectly for both decoder but when switch to inverter it loss connection, please help me

RickyM:
Hello to the great people of Nairaland!
This thunder issue is already messing with my mental state and it’s kind of making me wonder if God is punishing me somehow
Just earlier this year my hybrid inverter got fried and then I decided to get a satchet inverter from one of the seller on here and the inverter been working perfectly fine carrying my two freezers and normal lighting points and charging of my devices.
Went to school yesterday to write an exam and then it started raining, sure can’t run out of examination hall to come home to turn off my system so along the way the thunder strike again and on getting home I realize the inverter isn’t supplying anymore.
Once again I’m without power supply and I have to go to charging stations to have my phone charged.
Please somebody save my dying soul because I’m sad
Could it be because the house I live in is a storey building?
Even my guy without thunder arrestor isn’t affected, why always me?
I already bought all the materials for thunder arrestor installation.
I’m afraid more than ever do buy a normal inverter again because it’s never easy losing money!

SaintUlot:
FOR SALE

This 12v pure sine wave inverter has the capacity to power 4 freezers @ the same time.

Capacity: 6000w Surge capacity and 2750w Actual capacity

Dc to Ac conversion efficiency : 90 - 95%
Idle consumption - 0.3 amp

It is a Non-grid tied Inverter. It powers Inductive and non-inductive loads seamlessly.

In the test video below, I used it to power all these appliances @ the same time:

👉 One normal freezer
👉 1hp pumping machine
👉charge spare battery
👉 one 32inch TV with Decoder
👉 2 medium sized fans
👉1 big ox fan

Then I switched off only the pumping machine to plug in the 1200w pressing iron


I have just one left, If you are interested in buying it, call or WhatsApp 08035537864



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Rap3bnI07g

Obnoxious2001:

Post picture of the Inverter

loluskysat:


Check if the inverter is modified sine wave inverter. The waves generated by the inverter can interfere with the heart beat. Try using PSyW if its MSW.

FRESHTWANYE:
Please professional help me I just install 2.4kw pure sinewave mercury hybrid inverter using it with dstv xtraview decoder, the primary decoder working perfectly but the secondary decoder didn't work and loss connection with the primary decoder heart beat. But using it with grid or generator works perfectly for both decoder but when switch to inverter it loss connection, please help me

FRESHTWANYE:

The inverter is pure sine wave because every other inductive load work perfectly. It strange to me am just thinking maybe inverters generate EMI( Electromagnetic interference)

obitobe:


some mercury 2.4kva inverter are modified sine wave and not pures sine wave, so that could be what might be affection the other decoder

SaintUlot:


Sold

ojesymsym:
I am trying to buy Jinko solar panels, Foauni does not seem to have in stock. Someone recommended stellarmart. ng, anyone knows if they are a reliable source of original JK panels? They say they have the 555W

jonescosmos:
Sorry for this terrible experience bro.

You need to tweak up your installation if you must continue to use Solar and Inverter while living in that building.

1. You need a rain sensor switch. Most rain-sensing devices work by accumulating a set amount of rainfall before a switch is activated that interrupts the circuit from the controller and shuts off the system.

2. You need a contactor style of ATS that disconnects your Grid Input once Grid is Off which is most likely to happen once it starts to rain. Also in the same box, you will integrate a PV Rapid Shutdown Contactor that will be connected to the Rain Sensor. Once the sensor gives the command, these contactors will shut off all inputs to your Inverter.

3. You need to drive a 6ft or 8ft earth rod into the ground and use it as your earth if the building does not belong to you.

4. You need the appropriate SPDs, AC & DC RCBO MCBs for your PV, Inverter and Home loads. By appropriate I mean the amperage ratings must be appropriate to you devices. Eg. Don't go putting a 63A MCB between grid and your Inverter when your Inverter Input Current is rated 25A Max.

5. You need an experienced electrical personnel to do this connections. No need to go this route if you will not use a qualified technician to install them.

Though this might sound expensive, It's better than replacing or repairing your Inverter every rainy season. It's a must in Renewable Energy if you must use it.

jonescosmos:
Sorry for this terrible experience bro.

You need to tweak up your installation if you must continue to use Solar and Inverter while living in that building.

1. You need a rain sensor switch. Most rain-sensing devices work by accumulating a set amount of rainfall before a switch is activated that interrupts the circuit from the controller and shuts off the system.

2. You need a contactor style of ATS that disconnects your Grid Input once Grid is Off which is most likely to happen once it starts to rain. Also in the same box, you will integrate a PV Rapid Shutdown Contactor that will be connected to the Rain Sensor. Once the sensor gives the command, these contactors will shut off all inputs to your Inverter.

3. You need to drive a 6ft or 8ft earth rod into the ground and use it as your earth if the building does not belong to you.

4. You need the appropriate SPDs, AC & DC RCBO MCBs for your PV, Inverter and Home loads. By appropriate I mean the amperage ratings must be appropriate to you devices. Eg. Don't go putting a 63A MCB between grid and your Inverter when your Inverter Input Current is rated 25A Max.

5. You need an experienced electrical personnel to do this connections. No need to go this route if you will not use a qualified technician to install them.

Though this might sound expensive, It's better than replacing or repairing your Inverter every rainy season. It's a must in Renewable Energy if you must use it.

Mud3x:
Good evening senior men,
I have 6kw growatt and I'm trying to understand the mppt
The maximum volt is 500
Is the 500vdc limited to each string or both strings on the inverter?
For example, 330v for pv1 string and 330v for pv2 string or 330v shared among both strings?

zeestone99:


Get a double pole breaker between inverter and battery, also break your input, output and pv. Turn off your breakers when you are not home or it's raining.
If the building is not your house and you have no long term commitment to the house, you won't want to install proper earthing equipments.

jonescosmos:
Sorry for this terrible experience bro.

You need to tweak up your installation if you must continue to use Solar and Inverter while living in that building.

1. You need a rain sensor switch. Most rain-sensing devices work by accumulating a set amount of rainfall before a switch is activated that interrupts the circuit from the controller and shuts off the system.

2. You need a contactor style of ATS that disconnects your Grid Input once Grid is Off which is most likely to happen once it starts to rain. Also in the same box, you will integrate a PV Rapid Shutdown Contactor that will be connected to the Rain Sensor. Once the sensor gives the command, these contactors will shut off all inputs to your Inverter.

3. You need to drive a 6ft or 8ft earth rod into the ground and use it as your earth if the building does not belong to you.

4. You need the appropriate SPDs, AC & DC RCBO MCBs for your PV, Inverter and Home loads. By appropriate I mean the amperage ratings must be appropriate to you devices. Eg. Don't go putting a 63A MCB between grid and your Inverter when your Inverter Input Current is rated 25A Max.

5. You need an experienced electrical personnel to do this connections. No need to go this route if you will not use a qualified technician to install them.

Though this might sound expensive, It's better than replacing or repairing your Inverter every rainy season. It's a must in Renewable Energy if you must use it.

RickyM:

My installation is off grid completely and not connected to grid.
Can I have your contact?

Dam5reey:


It has 2 independent trackers 500V each and is limited by 16A input current.

MPPT Solar Charging Mode
Max. PV Array Power 4000W+4000W
Max. PV Input Current 16A+16A
Start-up Voltage 150Vdc±10Vdc
PV Array MPPT Voltage Range 120Vdc~450Vdc
Max. PV Array Open Circuit Voltage 500Vdc

Dam5reey:


It has 2 independent trackers 500V each and is limited by 16A input current.

MPPT Solar Charging Mode
Max. PV Array Power 4000W+4000W
Max. PV Input Current 16A+16A
Start-up Voltage 150Vdc±10Vdc
PV Array MPPT Voltage Range 120Vdc~450Vdc
Max. PV Array Open Circuit Voltage 500Vdc

mank1234:


1 and 2 is going overboard. Lightening do also happen before it rain and sometimes while grid is ON.
3-5 is where he should focus his energy.

I would suggest he check the following:
-if his thunder arrestor is properly earthed. There's a building that the tape was cut during renovation and they kept experiencing what he's experiencing until it was fixed.
-if house earthing is separate from thunder arrestor earthing. Bonding means the discharge appear briefly as voltages at grounding terminals. So SPD is needed to keep this potential within limit.
-if thunder arrestor cabling is running in close proximity to any of his power line. This causes induced voltages/flash over on the power line.
-if he has SPD. To electronics, having thunder arrestor without SPD is more dangerous than not having thunder arrestor at all. Also, having SPD incorrectly installed causes harm rather than removing it.

RickyM:

I’m using the system for business for ice making so turning it off when I’m not at home means it will set it back for certain hours.

obitobe:
Please i need expert knowledge here, i have four 220ah tubular battery, i just noticed that when the battery is fully charge and i start using it for the night, @136w(5pm-10pm) and 98w ( 10pm -7am). i noticed that the battery will be 24.2v @2-3am then between 3-4am the battery voltage drops to 23.4v and this will get me to the morning. Recently i had to set the battery SOC from 50% to 70% because at 50% the battery goes off at 5-5:30am but at 70% it takes me till the morning. What could be causing the sharp drop in voltage.

With a battery monitor, i am getting this readings in the morning Batt 1: 11.95v Batt 2: 10.99v batt 3: 10.95v Batt 4: 11.94v

Edrizz:
With the individual battery voltage u shared, nothing is actually wrong with ur system, u only need to add/install a battery equaliser/balancer to ur system n everything will be fine. Ur 48volt inverter will continue to run provided that the battery voltage is still above 10.5v per piece, once the inverter detects a voltage drop of below 10.50v it would off itself... ur installer ought to have equalised the battery before installing them though

obitobe:


Thank you for your response, i have battery equalizer installed to the batteries and also the system is a 24 voltage system. I thought my batteries were already getting weak.

brightk:
if lightning arrestor earth pit is different from house earthing pit, do you subscribe to bonding both earth pits together to keep the potentials as low as possible? If no do you prefer one earth pit for both house earthing and lightning? Would you use one. Earth rod for ac and dc spds?

mank1234:

Personally, I'll do lightening arrestor earthing separate from house earthing. I'll put house AC and DC on same earthing. However, panel frame would have a separate one or go with thunder arrestor earthing with a different wire conection. My logic: anything that would have contact with lightening, I wouldn't put it with my house earthing. If you want to go with texbook recommendation, you'll then use bare copper tape or wire to bond them together inside ground. Personally I wouldn't do the last part - because I don't have a means of checking how good the earthing is.

The above would protect the house but is not enough to protect sensitive equipments. You still need an SPD to be connected in the manner of the picture below, taking note to ensure that the total distance of Va and Vb is less than 50cm. Taking your supply directly from the terminals of the SPD (live, neutral and earth) makes Va+Vb to be zero, thus ensuring that connected equipment won't see voltage above Up of the SPD. It's assume the supply has a suitable breaker upstream.

SPD to be selected at the point of protection for AC should be one with Up of 1500V or less, Un of 275V.
For DC, Un of your controller limit, Up of 2200V or less if HV controller or Up of 1500V or less if 200V controller and below. Computer and most electronics with processors have withstand voltage of 1500 while HV controllers have 2500V.

Syber:
Selling my Gennex 5KVA inverter after my recent upgrade.

Works like a champ

250k giveaway

Interested let me know you can pickup at my Office

No 53,Iyun Road, Stadium hotel bustop western avenue Surulere

Call me 08123871212