[quote author=lanre2009 post=131328198]can you pls recommend a mechanic that can help to fix these issues??

[/quote
You can reach out to me on whatApp

Where is your workshop??


[quote author=Abbeyismo post=131328303][/quote]

lanre2009:
Where is your workshop??

Lagos Mainland 08139539942

where on the mainland?

Abbeyismo:

Lagos Mainland 08139539942

Baldmarv:
My 2006 Toyota Camry i4 has a shudder with the following characteristics:
1. Vibrations start at around 50m/hr or 80km/hr.
2. Happens only on light throttle.
3. It goes away if I let off the throttle or press Down and it shifts to a lower gear.
4. Only happens after 5th gear when the rpm drops below 2000.

My suspicion is a faulty torque converter for the following reasons:
1. If I turn off Over Drive, limiting the transmission to 4 gears it never vibrates.
2. I’ve dropped the pan, cleaned and actually flushed the transmission fluid with T-IV. And it made no difference; so I know it’s not a fluid issue.
3. My tires are new and balanced
4. Car runs smoothly at same speed it usually vibrates when I turn off OD.
5. My engine mounts and shafts are tight with no clucks when I engage drive or reverse.

Please gurus am I on the right track? Your contributions will be greatly appreciated! If I am on the right track, how do I know a good replacement TC?

I hope this response is not too late.

You have done a good job with the transmission oil change (which is one of the first steps to solve a transmission problem)

The only thing you failed to do after the transmission oil change is transmission reset/adaptive reset. The transmission ECU (memory) has stored this problem in its memory during the period when your car was experiencing the shudder. This has to be wiped off the memory and allow to relearn.
If not, the issue will persist even if you change the whole gear (except if the transmission ECU/module is replaced with a new one with empty/correct memory).

I believe there is a standard relearning procedure for your car. Please search for the relearning procedure and follow it keenly.

I had a similar issue with my 2010 Camry in Nov 2023. I flushed the transmission and did the transmission adaptive reset with my Techstream device. The shudder disappeared and never return till date.

Contact Gazzuzz, he can help with the transmission adaptive reset and stuffs

All the best.

Anyone here into upholstery and based in Lagos?

Or can recommend some very good?

Adejunwonlo94:
Anyone here into upholstery and based in Lagos?

Or can recommend some very good?

Call 07089030689 for assistance.

3kay945:
Good evening my gurus in the house,
I really appreciate the effort of everyone trying to assist or help on matters that relate to our cars. Also to deliver us from the evil hands of Kazeems!

Please, my issue is that anytime my car battery is disconnected and reconnected my RX300, 2001 model, will be idling very low and even dies off when I apply the brake. It often an embarrassing experience due to constant restarting of the car at the middle of the road or traffic.

It normally stop this madness after like 45mins or so of driving nonstop.

I don't think this is normal, what can I do to fast track this re learning of the ECU.

Thanks in anticipation. Kudos to you guys.

Get a new Battery. Your battery is on the last leg

femmykenny:



Get a new Battery. Your battery is on the last leg

Happened with new battery bro.

Adejunwonlo94:
Anyone here into upholstery and based in Lagos?

Or can recommend some very good?

I know a guy at ijegun, very superbly good.
I only know and testify to his work and not his attitude so I cant recommend.

femmykenny:



Get a new Battery. Your battery is on the last leg

Did you read his conplain well before responding?

Good day gurus in the house..

what could these mean?

DTC report
Selected brand: Toyota

============1==============
P0014
Raw code: 0014
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
Camshaft position (CMP) actuator, exhaust/right/rear, bank 1 - timing over-advanced/system performance
Camshaft Position Exhaust/Right/Rear, Bank 1 Over-Advanced or System Performance

============2==============
P0016
Raw code: 0016
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
Crankshaft position/camshaft position, bank 1 sensor A - correlation
Crankshaft Position / Camshaft Position Bank 1 Sensor A Correlation

============3==============
P0101
Raw code: 0101
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
Mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - range/performance problem
Mass or Volume Air Flow Meter Circuit Range / Performance

theguy12:
Good day gurus in the house..

what could these mean?

DTC report
Selected brand: Toyota

============1==============
P0014
Raw code: 0014
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
Camshaft position (CMP) actuator, exhaust/right/rear, bank 1 - timing over-advanced/system performance
Camshaft Position Exhaust/Right/Rear, Bank 1 Over-Advanced or System Performance

============2==============
P0016
Raw code: 0016
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
Crankshaft position/camshaft position, bank 1 sensor A - correlation
Crankshaft Position / Camshaft Position Bank 1 Sensor A Correlation

============3==============
P0101
Raw code: 0101
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
Mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - range/performance problem
Mass or Volume Air Flow Meter Circuit Range / Performance

What's the repair history of the car?
I asked because of the 1st 2 codes.
You'd need to check the timing components and replace whatever is making the car go out of time then reset timing marks on both crank and cam shafts to align well.
Inspect the MAF sensor, wire, and socket for the last code and replace the sensor if all checks fine.

jceesquare:

What's the repair history of the car?
I asked because of the 1st 2 codes.
You'd need to check the timing components and replace whatever is making the car go out of time then reset timing marks on both crank and cam shafts to align well.
Inspect the MAF sensor, wire, and socket for the last code and replace the sensor if all checks fine.

the mechanic change the camshaft recently because of some unusual noise i was hearing..

theguy12:


the mechanic change the camshaft recently because of some unusual noise i was hearing..

Then he did not set the timing properly.....he should set it again.

Good morning everyone, my friends 07 accord jerks when entering gear 2. This usually happens when the car is cold but when driven for sometime and fully warmed up, there is no jerk when changing gears. The level/impact of jerk is dependent on the acceleration speed.

He has scanned the transmission several times but there is no error code.
Also, when slowing down, you feel a slight jerk, like changing from gear 2 to gear 1.

Transmission has been serviced with original Honda DW-1 tranny oil, solenoids have also been washed even though there is no error code.
Kindly assist to know what the issue is.

kelvinmnet:
Good morning everyone, my friends 07 accord jerks when entering gear 2. This usually happens when the car is cold but when driven for sometime and fully warmed up, there is no jerk when changing gears. The level/impact of jerk is dependent on the acceleration speed.

He has scanned the transmission several times but there is no error code.
Also, when slowing down, you feel a slight jerk, like changing from gear 2 to gear 1.

Transmission has been serviced with original Honda DW-1 tranny oil, solenoids have also been washed even though there is no error code.
Kindly assist to know what the issue is.

99.5% sure, buy another gearbox.
0.5% grace of whatever u worship.

Na so the gearbox of that car dey do and it will make u do all u have done.
E happen to me. Same model

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Check Your Fluids Regularly: Monitor your engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, and transmission fluid levels to avoid major mechanical issues.
Keep Your Tires in Good Shape: Regularly check tire pressure and tread depth to ensure safety and fuel efficiency.
Replace Your Air Filter: A clean air filter improves engine performance and fuel efficiency, so replace it as needed.
Inspect Your Brakes: Regular brake inspections can prevent costly repairs and keep you safe on the road.
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3kay945:
Good evening my gurus in the house,
I really appreciate the effort of everyone trying to assist or help on matters that relate to our cars. Also to deliver us from the evil hands of Kazeems!

Please, my issue is that anytime my car battery is disconnected and reconnected my RX300, 2001 model, will be idling very low and even dies off when I apply the brake. It often an embarrassing experience due to constant restarting of the car at the middle of the road or traffic.

It normally stop this madness after like 45mins or so of driving nonstop.

I don't think this is normal, what can I do to fast track this re learning of the ECU.

Thanks in anticipation. Kudos to you guys.

Change or work on the alternator. Stop buying new battery, the alternator may not be charging it well, reason why it dies off on traffic.

theguy12:


the mechanic change the camshaft recently because of some unusual noise i was hearing..

He would need to go over the timing again.
Timing is off.

kelvinmnet:
Good morning everyone, my friends 07 accord jerks when entering gear 2. This usually happens when the car is cold but when driven for sometime and fully warmed up, there is no jerk when changing gears. The level/impact of jerk is dependent on the acceleration speed.

He has scanned the transmission several times but there is no error code.
Also, when slowing down, you feel a slight jerk, like changing from gear 2 to gear 1.

Transmission has been serviced with original Honda DW-1 tranny oil, solenoids have also been washed even though there is no error code.
Kindly assist to know what the issue is.

Keep driving that way.
Ease off your foot when it wants to shift to make the shift a bit smooth till transmission oil warns up.

theguy12:
Good day gurus in the house..

what could these mean?

DTC report
Selected brand: Toyota

============1==============
P0014
Raw code: 0014
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
Camshaft position (CMP) actuator, exhaust/right/rear, bank 1 - timing over-advanced/system performance
Camshaft Position Exhaust/Right/Rear, Bank 1 Over-Advanced or System Performance

============2==============
P0016
Raw code: 0016
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
Crankshaft position/camshaft position, bank 1 sensor A - correlation
Crankshaft Position / Camshaft Position Bank 1 Sensor A Correlation

============3==============
P0101
Raw code: 0101
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
Mass air flow (MAF) sensor/volume air flow (VAF) sensor - range/performance problem
Mass or Volume Air Flow Meter Circuit Range / Performance

Do a test of your VVT exhaust solenoid if it's working normally. Might be as simple as replacing that solenoid.

But then with the maf also giving a code, you might want to check the wiring out of they're on the same circuit.

kelvinmnet:
Good morning everyone, my friends 07 accord jerks when entering gear 2. This usually happens when the car is cold but when driven for sometime and fully warmed up, there is no jerk when changing gears. The level/impact of jerk is dependent on the acceleration speed.

He has scanned the transmission several times but there is no error code.
Also, when slowing down, you feel a slight jerk, like changing from gear 2 to gear 1.

Transmission has been serviced with original Honda DW-1 tranny oil, solenoids have also been washed even though there is no error code.
Kindly assist to know what the issue is.

Won't be surprised if you engine/transmission mounts are bad. Greatest torque is on the low gears. So bad mounts could mimic a transmission jerk. Check if you're having misfires too. That gear ratio requires good engine performance.

masciv:


Won't be surprised if you engine/transmission mounts are bad. Greatest torque is on the low gears. So bad mounts could mimic a transmission jerk. Check if you're having misfires too. That gear ratio requires good engine performance.

It's not the mount, all mounts are fine.
When the car has been driven for sometime and the engine has warmed up, the selection becomes smooth.

But when the car has been parked for sometime and it's cold, when you drive it, the engine revs high and then a sudden jerk/bang when changing to the 2nd gear. But if you don't rev too high, the jerk is minimal.

Then when slowing down, you will feel a downward jerk, like going from gear 2 to gear 1.

Saw a comment online talking about clutch not releasing properly, don't know how true that is.

jceesquare:

He would need to go over the timing again.
Timing is off.

thank you boss

kelvinmnet:


It's not the mount, all mounts are fine.
When the car has been driven for sometime and the engine has warmed up, the selection becomes smooth.

But when the car has been parked for sometime and it's cold, when you drive it, the engine revs high and then a sudden jerk/bang when changing to the 2nd gear. But if you don't rev too high, the jerk is minimal.

Then when slowing down, you will feel a downward jerk, like going from gear 2 to gear 1.

Saw a comment online talking about clutch not releasing properly, don't know how true that is.

It’s a gear slippage problem. A sensor inside the gear is faulty. On YouTube it is fixable, but our mechanics here aren’t are careful as those abroad, so they’ll ask you to get a new gearbox.

That’s my advice for you as well. Don’t bother opening the transmission in hope of fixing it, try to save up and get a replacement.

Sheuns:


It’s a gear slippage problem. A sensor inside the gear is faulty. On YouTube it is fixable, but our mechanics here aren’t are careful as those abroad, so they’ll ask you to get a new gearbox.

That’s my advice for you as well. Don’t bother opening the transmission in hope of fixing it, try to save up and get a replacement.

Thanks bro.
I checked Oyingbo over the weekend and was told the tranny is 350k right now.
Tranny was 250k as at March this year.

Any idea on the name of the sensor inside the tranny causing the slippage?
I have scanned the tranny several times without any code.

kelvinmnet:


Thanks bro.
I checked Oyingbo over the weekend and was told the tranny is 350k right now.
Tranny was 250k as at March this year.

Any idea on the name of the sensor inside the tranny causing the slippage?
I have scanned the tranny several times without any code.

The gear is bad, even if you dismantle and clean the fault is still there. Continue to manage the gear and save up for replacement. EOD and DC gear are problematic though 05 to 07 model years were better than 03 to 04

kelvinmnet:


Thanks bro.
I checked Oyingbo over the weekend and was told the tranny is 350k right now.
Tranny was 250k as at March this year.

Any idea on the name of the sensor inside the tranny causing the slippage?
I have scanned the tranny several times without any code.

Shift solenoid valve A to E

kelvinmnet:


Thanks bro.
I checked Oyingbo over the weekend and was told the tranny is 350k right now.
Tranny was 250k as at March this year.

Any idea on the name of the sensor inside the tranny causing the slippage?
I have scanned the tranny several times without any code.

It can be any of these. Just try save up for a new gear while managing this one. If you decided to go for a fix, they may charge you over 100k and the gear may still pack up after a few weeks.

Also when going to buy the gear, I’ll advise you go with a trusted mechanic to get a decent one. Remember, the gear you’re also buying is used and you can’t be 100% sure how much life it has left in it.

Sheuns:


It can be any of these. Just try save up for a new gear while managing this one. If you decided to go for a fix, they may charge you over 100k and the gear may still pack up after a few weeks.

Also when going to buy the gear, I’ll advise you go with a trusted mechanic to get a decent one. Remember, the gear you’re also buying is used and you can’t be 100% sure how much life it has left in it.

Thanks bro.
The image you sent, is it located inside the tranny?
Like when I remove the sump cover, will I find it Inside?
If yes, then I don't mind doing the experiment myself. Removing and testing the solenoids. I may be lucky to find the faulty one.
However, from videos I have seen online, it's pointing to the twin solenoid on the tranny.

How can sump have such sensor. Do u know what sump is.sump dont use hard and round sensors. They use flat ,real flat sensor. Dont bother bringing outbthat gear,just get a replacement.i know how it feels,but just adjust to it and get a replacement. If u do otherwise. Your car,both electrical,tranny and engine will never be the same 4life. When u have funds,scrap the follow come transmission and get direct toks. Direct toks wont be sparkling clean and shinny,it will be dirty a bit. Any shinny transmission is reworked and not direct tokunbo.dont get scammed. Bro dollar is fuc king high on colos

kelvinmnet:


Thanks bro.
The image you sent, is it located inside the tranny?
Like when I remove the sump cover, will I find it Inside?
If yes, then I don't mind doing the experiment myself. Removing and testing the solenoids. I may be lucky to find the faulty one.
However, from videos I have seen online, it's pointing to the twin solenoid on the tranny.