I recently worked on my Toyota Siena 1999 model. I replaced the top and on the process I changed the gear oil. I used dextron 111, after about 500miles the car refused to select gear 4 & 5. I checked the oil, it has turned to black, I changed the oil again but it's still not selecting all the gears. I hardly overtake due to this issue.

The experts here, please what should I do?

Is it to change the gear or any other possible solutions?

Please if you have had this experience, don't read and pass.
Thnx.

If u know what can be of help please let me know, don't view and pass.

Go run a scan on your transmission

obicentlis:
I checked the oil, it has turned to black.

If your ATF has turned black, It means your tranny fibres are burnt out and lost its gripping ability so the gears slip. The fibres can be changed sha.

obicentlis:
I changed the gear oil. I used dextron 111,

How long did you use the old oil and what type of oil was it?

Note that toyota has its own recommended ATF
It is labelled: TOYOTA Type T-iv .

DECOtech:


If your ATF has turned black, It means your tranny fibres are burnt out and lost its gripping ability so the gears slip. The fibres can be changed sha.




How long did you use the old oil and what type of oil was it?

Note that toyota has its own recommended ATF
It is labelled: TOYOTA Type T-iv .

Exactly, OP I think you should flush and replace with T-IV fluid and then post your results

DECOtech:


If your ATF has turned black, It means your tranny fibres are burnt out and lost its gripping ability so the gears slip. The fibres can be changed sha.




How long did you use the old oil and what type of oil was it?
I used oando dextron 111.



Note that toyota has its own recommended ATF
It is labelled: TOYOTA Type T-iv .

I used oando dextron 3.
Where can I get this type of oil u mentioned?

T-iv for a 1999 sienna?

nissparts:
T-iv for a 1999 sienna?

What do you think bro?

obicentlis:

What do you think bro?

Toyota sienna 1st generation was from 1998 to 2003, 1998 to 2000 are same until minor changes from 2001 to 2003. I have seen the dip stick of 2000 and 2001 and it says dextron iii not type-iv or anything else and the recommended engine oil is 5W30 api,sj etc. If dextron iii is used and u have issues, they you have simply used fake gear oil.

It was bought at oando. Na wa oo

obicentlis:

What do you think bro?

Your required fluid is Dextron III

Piyke:


Exactly, OP I think you should flush and replace with T-IV fluid and then post your results

nurey:

Toyota sienna 1st generation was from 1998 to 2003, 1998 to 2000 are same until minor changes from 2001 to 2003. I have seen the dip stick of 2000 and 2001 and it says dextron iii not type-iv or anything else and the recommended engine oil is 5W30 api,sj etc. If dextron iii is used and u have issues, they you have simply used fake gear oil.

Good to learn this model uses Dextron III. Thanks Nurey

nissparts:


Your required fluid is Dextron III

Any other brand of dextron 111 apart from oando?

Dexron III from Oando is a good product.

But then GM withdrew the license, so even if they say its Dexron III, there is no independent/third party proof. Does the company even produce a specifications sheet for that ATF? Am not so sure. I searched and found one for their Dexron II product but not the Dexron III.

Why do I raise the above issue, I have used the product, it is good but don't forget its not a synthetic based ATF fluid but a mineral based which means, you may need to change it more often than your manual states like Sooperrescue likes to recommend, this is based on personal experience, I tried using it and following the 30,000 miles change interval and 1/2way through a 400 mile journey, the fluid started smelling burnt. I drove till I got to my destination and then back, but soon thereafter I lost that transmission.

Since then, I don't trust organic ATF for more than 10,000 miles and i keep refreshing it from time to time by draining 2 litres and topping with another fresh 2 litres after every 3,000 miles.

Finally I switched to synthetic, I use Valvoline Dexron VI Full Synthetic, at least you cannot claim to be a Dexron VI product without passing the tests, and Dexron VI is backward compatible with Dexron III.

So first things first, change your ATF ASAP and reduce the ATF change interval to around 10,000 miles and you might not have to change your transmission anytime soon!

But then if you never drive above 80km/hr to 100km/hr on a sustained basis or carry heavy loads on a sustained basis or only do town runs with the very occasional travel, feel free to extend the above recommended interval. The reason is, when you drive at such speeds or carry such heavy loads because of overdrive, your engine is taking a break, but your transmission and wheels are not, and more work means more heat, more heat means the ATF takes a very serious beating and at some point begins to deteriorate. That's why it turned black which is almost as good as no ATF.

I drive between 30,000 and 40,000 miles a year so I do a lot of testing of fluids and their effects on my vehicles, YMMV.

Why Synthetic ATF may be the better choice:
Source #1: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/benefits-of-using-synthetic-transmission-fluid
Source #2: http://www.machinelubrication.com/Read/1290/synthetic-conventional-oils

Quote: "The single most important thing you can do to head off big-bucks transmission repairs is to change the ATF on a regular basis." Read more here: http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/1272521

obicentlis:

I used oando dextron 3.
Where can I get this type of oil u mentioned?

Its right there in the market.

Tell the fluid sellers what you want
(Ask and you shall be given)

If you have already lost gears, changing fluids will not solve that

OP there's nothing wrong with your gear. Problem is with your knock sensors. Scan vehicle, I'm sure bank 1 and 2 are either not connected or bad scan your car.

obicentlis:
I recently worked on my Toyota Siena 1999 model. I replaced the top and on the process I changed the gear oil. I used dextron 111, after about 500miles the car refused to select gear 4 & 5. I checked the oil, it has turned to black, I changed the oil again but it's still not selecting all the gears. I hardly overtake due to this issue.
The experts here, please what should I do?
Is it to change the gear or any other possible solutions?
Please if you have had this experience, don't read and pass.
Thnx.

GAZZUZZ:
OP there's nothing wrong with your gear. Problem is with your knock sensors. Scan vehicle, I'm sure bank 1 and 2 are either not connected or bad scan your car.

Thanks, I will check the knock sensors. How much is obd scanner, I think I need this .

IdaraCHODB:
Dexron III from Oando is a good product.

But then GM withdrew the license, so even if they say its Dexron III, there is no independent/third party proof. Does the company even produce a specifications sheet for that ATF? Am not so sure. I searched and found one for their Dexron II product but not the Dexron III.

Why do I raise the above issue, I have used the product, it is good but don't forget its not a synthetic based ATF fluid but a mineral based which means, you may need to change it more often than your manual states like Sooperrescue likes to recommend, this is based on personal experience, I tried using it and following the 30,000 miles change interval and 1/2way through a 400 mile journey, the fluid started smelling burnt. I drove till I got to my destination and then back, but soon thereafter I lost that transmission.

Since then, I don't trust organic ATF for more than 10,000 miles and i keep refreshing it from time to time by draining 2 litres and topping with another fresh 2 litres after every 3,000 miles.

Finally I switched to synthetic, I use Valvoline Dexron VI Full Synthetic, at least you cannot claim to be a Dexron VI product without passing the tests, and Dexron VI is backward compatible with Dexron III.

So first things first, change your ATF ASAP and reduce the ATF change interval to around 10,000 miles and you might not have to change your transmission anytime soon!

But then if you never drive above 80km/hr to 100km/hr on a sustained basis or carry heavy loads on a sustained basis or only do town runs with the very occasional travel, feel free to extend the above recommended interval. The reason is, when you drive at such speeds or carry such heavy loads because of overdrive, your engine is taking a break, but your transmission and wheels are not, and more work means more heat, more heat means the ATF takes a very serious beating and at some point begins to deteriorate. That's why it turned black which is almost as good as no ATF.

I drive between 30,000 and 40,000 miles a year so I do a lot of testing of fluids and their effects on my vehicles, YMMV.

Why Synthetic ATF may be the better choice:
Source #1: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/benefits-of-using-synthetic-transmission-fluid
Source #2: http://www.machinelubrication.com/Read/1290/synthetic-conventional-oils

Quote: "The single most important thing you can do to head off big-bucks transmission repairs is to change the ATF on a regular basis." Read more here: http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/1272521

What oil is your recommendation?

obicentlis:


Any other brand of dextron 111 apart from oando?

I use Sea horse in my 1999 carmy. Sea horse is also dextron III, works perfectly

Gazzuz is so on point. I can bet op's knock sensors where not connected. His transmission is still in tact.

Please do NOT use seahorse dextron III. I think its manufactured in UAE. Its a low quality dextron III. Go for a higher quality. Buy from petrol station not road side vendors.

You will have to remove these parts b4 you can locate the 2knock sensors.

Pic knock sensor.

Look properly at the 2 sensors and verify yours is connected and harnes (wiring) is fine.

obicentlis:

What oil is your recommendation?

Please reread my post - Oando is still good is you do town runs, office to home, home to office, then your transmission will never overheat and you can follow the maximum ATF change interval. Infact, Oando is still good if you use it on long journeys but are willing to do shorter ATF change intervals

BUT

you may need to switch to either a Dexron III Fully Synthetic ( there is a Korean brand that i have seen around local transmission repair shops) or even better a Dexron VI synthetic ATF such as Valvoline Dexron VI Full Synthetic if you are concerned/paranoid about the effect of heat/friction due to 1. sustained high speed driving and 2. carrying loads heavy than the car/engine/transmission was designed to carry

This link is not about your particular transmission type but it contains truths that may be universally applicable, please take the time to study it and your transmission may live longer than your engine http://forum.probetalk.com/showthread.php?p=1922481354 . Everything is relevant but please pay particular attention to the section Automatic Transmission Failures.

Take note, even print for reference purposes what is written under neglect, abuse, design flaws and normal wear and tear.

In the light of the above, you may wonder who should I listen to, the manufacturer who recommends long change intervals or the local transmission repair shop who recommends short change intervals, my recommendation is the later if you carry heavy loads, race the car, or do long journeys and the former if you do home to office and back, home to place or worship and back, home to market and back

Speaking once again from experience and lots of interactions with those who know better.

Gazzuzz knows what he is taking about, but I was addressing the issue of the ATF turning black only

kelechi04:
Please do NOT use seahorse dextron III. I think its manufactured in UAE. Its a low quality dextron III. Go for a higher quality. Buy from petrol station not road side vendors.

Seconded, it wrecked my transmission, Oando is a much better buy. maybe the other poster doesn't know because it he did not put the fluid under stress i.e, sustained high speed driving

nissparts:
T-iv for a 1999 sienna?

Why not bro?

DECOtech:


Why not bro?

The "why not" has already been posted in this thread.

Nissparts and Nurey, when it comes to Toyota ATF, there can be some confusion on what to use, especially for older models. Older manuals will recommend transmission fluids that have been discontinued. Toyota ATF Type T-IV is the most current generation of discontinued types T, T-II and T-III and a toyota specific product. It replaces these for use in older model Toyota. Continue to have your transmission flushed at the interval recommended by your owner's manual even if the transmission fluid claims to never need changing. Cues that there might be an ATF problem are low fluid levels, thickening, discolouration or a burnt smell. All of which can determined with the ATF dipstick.

Actually, there should be no confusion in this case.
The transmission in the 1999 Sienna only requires dextron III.
And it is irrelevant that there are current generations of Toyota fluids, that fact changes nothing.

DECOtech:
Nissparts and Nurey, when it comes to Toyota ATF, there can be some confusion on what to use, especially for older models. Older manuals will recommend transmission fluids that have been discontinued. Toyota ATF Type T-IV is the most current generation of discontinued types T, T-II and T-III and a toyota specific product. It replaces these for use in older model Toyota. Continue to have your transmission flushed at the interval recommended by your owner's manual even if the transmission fluid claims to never need changing. Cues that there might be an ATF problem are low fluid levels, thickening, discolouration or a burnt smell. All of which can determined with the ATF dipstick.

If you read my post well, you will note that I only gave the recommended transmission fluid as specified by the manufacturer. But according to reliable sources, dextron III was discontinued or replaced by dextron IV around year 04/05 so with great enthusiasm I am informing the op that he could use Dextron IV as recommended by oga Siena to another brother with same model and make of car

Update: After waiting for the scanner I ordered from konga.com over a week without any sign of them, I had to change the transmission after changing the atf.
But my present worry is the atf leaking. After changing the gear box, I tried to test the car on the highway, on speed of 80km , I noticed something like smoke coming out of the bonnet. I stopped and saw fire on the exhaust pipe as a result of atf leakage. Almost all the atf used was on the ground. I really don't understand what is the problem . Please , what could cause the leakage and what can I do, I'm kinda frustrated.

obicentlis:
Update: After waiting for the scanner I ordered from konga.com over a week without any sign of them, I had to change the transmission after changing the atf.
But my present worry is the atf leaking. After changing the gear box, I tried to test the car on the highway, on speed of 80km , I noticed something like smoke coming out of the bonnet. I stopped and saw fire on the exhaust pipe as a result of atf leakage. Almost all the atf used was on the ground. I really don't understand what is the problem . Please , what could cause the leakage and what can I do, I'm kinda frustrated.

1. Bolt at gearbox bottom plate wasn't properly tied, 2. The gasket or blackgum used wasn't properly applied. Start s car pull d parking brakes , put wedge, put in on drive and go under d car, u wil surely see where d leakage is Coming from.
3. Sometimes leakage comes through the dipstick if not properly closed . Thanks