mufutau55:


Every artisan should use the poke on the pillars.... but many don't. You need to see one of my pillar... standing like a dead perforated wood.
But it was corrected during pillar decorations..

Hajji M.

There are certain tools that one needs to have to be regarded as a bricklayer/builder and that concrete vibrating machine is one. So is a concrete mixer, one can argue about a pump.

I see a lot of woods being reused here too.

EgunMogaji:

The woods were straight, well mostly, it's the quality of the wood that bothers me personally. As in not meeting my level of expectation.
Will I do it again? Maybe, but will be more critical.
I do woodwork (mostly finish carpentry) and what I look for might not be possible without using marine boards like Skimanski, et al.

Exactly at the last sentence... most of the lintel or pillar abnormalities are usually corrected during plastering anyway..
Also cement, sand, granite mix ratio is very important in the smoothness of the pillars/lintels.
Can you show/post part of the areas where you are not satisfied?

Hajji M.

@ battleaxe. follow ice4u999 advice. But before you do anything the first step is Raising the height of your tank. If its ontop of the building, take it out and use a tank stand. if you already have a tank stand, you can increase the height or redo a new one. without that, no other process should come first, every other process must follow the tank height process, or others will be a waste of time.

As for pump, do not even go there, because the moment you have a single leakage, there is no going back except to re pipe, and i guess you know what that means

mufutau55:


Exactly at the last sentence... most of the lintel or pillar abnormalities are usually corrected during plastering anyway..
Also cement, sand, granite mix ratio is very important in the smoothness of the pillars/lintels.
Can you show/post part of the areas where you are not satisfied?

Hajji M.

So neither of my build has ever had plastering done so I am not experienced on how much "deficiency" that can cover. My builder has assured me though that I am being overly critical and that it will fine after "finishing".

We'll see.

skimanski:
@ battleaxe. follow ice4u999 advice. But before you do anything the first step is Raising the height of your tank. If its ontop of the building, take it out and use a tank stand. if you already have a tank stand, you can increase the height or redo a new one. without that, no other process should come first, every other process must follow the tank height process, or others will be a waste of time.

As for pump, do not even go there, because the moment you have a single leakage, there is no going back except to re pipe, and i guess you know what that means

What should be the good height after the last block on a duplex building for the tank stand height? Thx.

Hajji M.

EgunMogaji:


So neither of my build has ever had plastering done so I am not experienced on how much "deficiency" that can cover. My builder has assured me though that I am being overly critical and that it will fine after "finishing".

We'll see.

With the one the wood still on, you can't tell. But with the one inside and wood removed... I don't see any abnormality with those.
Yes, may be you just want it to be fined like your carved woodwork...

When you have a pillar like below, you should be worried but also corrected during pillar dressing and plastering.

Hajji M.

skimanski:
@ battleaxe. follow ice4u999 advice. But before you do anything the first step is Raising the height of your tank. If its ontop of the building, take it out and use a tank stand. if you already have a tank stand, you can increase the height or redo a new one. without that, no other process should come first, every other process must follow the tank height process, or others will be a waste of time.

As for pump, do not even go there, because the moment you have a single leakage, there is no going back except to re pipe, and i guess you know what that means

You just can't stop making sense. @ OP, Raise your tank! You really don't want to see a flooded house due to leakage caused by leaking pipes.

As for pumps, boosters etc, no be everything dey work as rated o. I have this stuffs and I can tell you how disappointing it is with all the amount invested. They should work in places where there's quality assurance. I mean your pipes, fittings/faucets are built to standard specs and not here where anything goes (pipe is pipe).

EgunMogaji:

So neither of my build has ever had plastering done so I am not experienced on how much "deficiency" that can cover. My builder has assured me though that I am being overly critical and that it will fine after "finishing".

We'll see.

True. More reason I like Spyder... you don't see most of this problems in his build.

Hajji M.

n3xt:


You just can't stop making sense. @ OP, Raise your tank! You really don't want to see a flooded house due to leakage caused by leaking pipes.

As for pumps, boosters etc, no be everything dey work as rated o. I have this stuffs and I can tell you how disappointing it is with all the amount invested. They should work in places where there's quality assurance. I mean your pipes, fittings/faucets are built to standard specs and not here where anything goes (pipe is pipe).

how about if this pump is put just before your shower and it supplies just your shower?, cos in my house where Im typing from that seem to be the case

This thread is back to it's best. I am enjoying it. Keep it coming guys. Happy Sunday to you all.

mufutau55:


True. More reason I like Spyder... you don't see most of this problems in his build.

Hajji M.

And I think there's cost savings in there.

So with Spyders method, everything is straight, plumb and no "pregnancies".

So it will theoretically take less plastering labor and materials.

It's a learning lesson for me.

skimanski:
@ battleaxe. follow ice4u999 advice. But before you do anything the first step is Raising the height of your tank. If its ontop of the building, take it out and use a tank stand. if you already have a tank stand, you can increase the height or redo a new one. without that, no other process should come first, every other process must follow the tank height process, or others will be a waste of time.

As for pump, do not even go there, because the moment you have a single leakage, there is no going back except to re pipe, and i guess you know what that means

What is the recommended height for the tank that serves a bungalow?

Thanks.

erico2k2:

how about if this pump is put just before your shower and it supplies just your shower?, cos in my house where Im typing from that seem to be the case

This discussion is something that needs to be well understood.

Most of the times, low pressure issues is always caused by using wrong fittings. Some people will buy the most cheapest tap (even though it's rated high pressure) when they actually require something different to support their water system requirement.

A lot of factors attributes to low water pressure in a house.

1. Length of pipes
2. Water demand
3. Height of the water tank
4. Pipe/Tap rating (low pressure or high pressure). These pipes and Taps are different but who cares.
5. Diameter of supply pipes
6. The water distribution system design. Just like network design, your pipe network is critical to flow rate. The travel distance is also something not to overlook.


So putting a booster will work in a situation where critical planning has not been put in place. For me, I'll try to avoid the use of those boosters and work more on an effective design.

Brabus.

n3xt:


This discussion is something that needs to be well understood.

Most of the times, low pressure issues is always caused by using wrong fittings. Some people will buy the most cheapest tap (even though it's rated high pressure) when they actually require something different to support their water system requirement.

A lot of factors attributes to low pressure in a house.

1. Length of pipes
2. Water demand
3. Height of the water tank
4. Pipe/Tap rating (low pressure or high pressure). These pipes and Taps are different but who cares.
5. Diameter of supply pipes
6. The water distribution system design. Just like network design, your pipe network is critical to flow rate. The travel distance is also something not to overlook.


So putting a booster will work in a situation where critical planning has not been put in place. For me, I'll try to avoid the use of those boosters and work more on an effective design.

Brabus.

abeg nor kill with laugh o " in Nigeria pipe is pipe." You are 100% right and i seriously agree that a booster pump should be part of the initial plumbing drawing design. That way no single factor is left out during execution.

battleaxe:


The height of the tank would not make a difference in this case since the plumber still dropped the feeder pipe to the bottom before distributing.

The mechanics of fluid flow can be very simple and yet mind-boggingly complex
The pressure exerted by a static fluid depends primarily on three things .... density of the fluid, gravity and depth(height)
As applicable in this case the only variable is the height,
From The mathematical relation betwen these three, an increase in the height will give a proportional or almost proprtional increase in hydrostatic pressure (ideally).

However other factors result in pressure losses during flow,
-One of significant note is pressure loss as a result of elbows, and other such fittings. Significant pressure losses can occur when fluid changes direction if proper considerations are not made. For instance the attached pic shows two shower installations in the apartment where i stay. the pressure from the shower head in pic 2 is almost double that in pic 1, even tho they are on the same floor. The elbows in pic 1are too close and too numerous. If such wack plumbing exists on that floor you need to remedy it.

https://neutrium.net/fluid_flow/pressure-loss-from-fittings-equivalent-length-method/

Mechanically Inducing more pressure to achieve good flow on The top floor might not be safe for the rest of your plumbing.

@All

Many thanks for your valuable contributions- well digested. And I think there are others who are benefitting from this.

I need some more help though- as guessed by eriko, steel pillar carrying tank is cast into a tall foundation. It would be absolutely impossible to drop it, modify and re-stand. Anyone with ideas to modify this, pls share.

I know it isn't a distance issue because there are other bungalows fed from a 2nd lower tank on same stand, and supply is excellent.

My assumption is that because the supply is going up, against gravity, for the duplex, hence the sluggishness.

I will work on the option of increasing the supply line, while retaining the distribution piping.

Does anyone have an experience with power showers? As they have an inbuilt pump, do they help with pressure at individual showers?

Thanks again all.

mufutau55:


What should be the good height after the last block on a duplex building for the tank stand height? Thx.

Hajji M.

from 2m above the last block

battleaxe:

steel pillar carrying tank is cast into a tall foundation. It would be absolutely impossible to drop it, modify and re-stand. Anyone with ideas to modify this, pls share.

I know it isn't a distance issue because there are other bungalows fed from a 2nd lower tank on same stand, and supply is excellent. My assumption is that because the supply is going up, against gravity, for the duplex, hence the sluggishness.
.

Your description is vague why dont you provide a picture of the setup and get more realistic and concrete input.

Travelling against gravity isn't the reason why you have low pressure.... It is the reason Why the problem is Noticeable... if water can't travel one floor up, what happens to people several floors up ?
You can have a low pressure situation and still have good supply in a bungalow, the pressure differential is optimum .

skimanski:

from 2m above the last block

Thank you Boss.

Hajji M.

battleaxe:
@All

Many thanks for your valuable contributions- well digested. And I think there are others who are benefitting from this.

I need some more help though- as guessed by eriko, steel pillar carrying tank is cast into a tall foundation. It would be absolutely impossible to drop it, modify and re-stand. Anyone with ideas to modify this, pls share.

I know it isn't a distance issue because there are other bungalows fed from a 2nd lower tank on same stand, and supply is excellent.

My assumption is that because the supply is going up, against gravity, for the duplex, hence the sluggishness.

I will work on the option of increasing the supply line, while retaining the distribution piping.

Does anyone have an experience with power showers? As they have an inbuilt pump, do they help with pressure at individual showers?

Thanks again all.

I certainly am benefiting from this. Thanks for asking the question.

allCopacetic:

The mechanics of fluid flow can be very simple and yet mind-boggingly complex
The pressure exerted by a static fluid depends primarily on three things .... density of the fluid, gravity and depth(height)
As applicable in this case the only variable is the height,
From The mathematical relation betwen these three, an increase in the height will give a proportional or almost proprtional increase in hydrostatic pressure (ideally).

However other factors result in pressure losses during flow,
-One of significant note is pressure loss as a result of elbows, and other such fittings. Significant pressure losses can occur when fluid changes direction if proper considerations are not made. For instance the attached pic shows two shower installations in the apartment where i stay. the pressure from the shower head in pic 2 is almost double that in pic 1, even tho they are on the same floor. The elbows in pic 1are too close and too numerous. If such wack plumbing exists on that floor you need to remedy it.

https://neutrium.net/fluid_flow/pressure-loss-from-fittings-equivalent-length-method/

Mechanically Inducing more pressure to achieve good flow on The top floor might not be safe for the rest of your plumbing.

This is what ALL my elbows are going to look like. Absolutely no gluing, joining anywhere on the line.

Personally I think every little bit helps and it's a sum of all the small parts that makes a great system.

ice4u999:


abeg nor kill with laugh o " in Nigeria pipe is pipe."

Such very poor perspective and misguided misconception is something that literally bleeds my heart. I neva see country like Naija .
When i look at many high budget buildings here and see the type of pipes and piping accessories utilized in the conduiting especially lighting and knockout boxes, I just shake my head and sigh .
The problem with us as a people is that..as long as the effects of a choice or an action are not immediately or short-term visible, then it can sail.
And we wonder why standards are falling everyday

EgunMogaji:


This is what ALL my elbows are going to look like. Absolutely no gluing, joining anywhere on the line.

Personally I think every little bit helps and it's a sum of all the small parts that makes a great system.

Is this for plumbing?

allCopacetic:

For plumbing?

Yes Sir.

EgunMogaji:


Yes Sir.

Oohhh, ok something like the henco pipes used here right?
The bend makes it look like regular electrical conduit pipes.

battleaxe:
@All

Many thanks for your valuable contributions- well digested. And I think there are others who are benefitting from this.

I need some more help though- as guessed by eriko, steel pillar carrying tank is cast into a tall foundation. It would be absolutely impossible to drop it, modify and re-stand. Anyone with ideas to modify this, pls share.

I know it isn't a distance issue because there are other bungalows fed from a 2nd lower tank on same stand, and supply is excellent.

My assumption is that because the supply is going up, against gravity, for the duplex, hence the sluggishness.

I will work on the option of increasing the supply line, while retaining the distribution piping.

Does anyone have an experience with power showers? As they have an inbuilt pump, do they help with pressure at individual showers?

Thanks again all.

Power shower is just another option of what I suggestion, its a shower with a little pump inside,That brings you back to the power source.If you can gt over the power supply to the power shower then you are good to go.

allCopacetic:

Oohhh, ok something like the henco pipes used here right?
The bend makes it look like regular electrical conduit pipes.

Yes similar. We call it PEX over here.

allCopacetic:

Such very poor perspective and misguided misconception is something that literally bleeds my heart. I neva see country like Naija .
[b]When i look at many high budget buildings here and see the type of pipes and piping accessories utilized in the conduiting especially lighting and knockout boxes, I just shake my head and sigh .
[/b]The problem with us as a people is that..as long as the effects of a choice or an action are not immediately or short-term visible, then it can sail.
And we wonder why standards are falling everyday

God bless you, oga. I have seen it all here.

EgunMogaji:


What is the recommended height for the tank that serves a bungalow?

Thanks.

Height of tank is a function (pressure head) is govern by the hight of the highest place where you will like to take the water to. For a bungalow of less than 3.5 m from ground level, height of over head tank can be 6m

n3xt:


This discussion is something that needs to be well understood.

Most of the times, low pressure issues is always caused by using wrong fittings. Some people will buy the most cheapest tap (even though it's rated high pressure) when they actually require something different to support their water system requirement.

A lot of factors attributes to low water pressure in a house.

1. Length of pipes
2. Water demand
3. Height of the water tank
4. Pipe/Tap rating (low pressure or high pressure). These pipes and Taps are different but who cares.
5. Diameter of supply pipes
6. The water distribution system design. Just like network design, your pipe network is critical to flow rate. The travel distance is also something not to overlook.


So putting a booster will work in a situation where critical planning has not been put in place. For me, I'll try to avoid the use of those boosters and work more on an effective design.

Brabus.

You just made remembered pipe network analysis.
Water demand is not a factor that reduce pressure head. Water demand will affect your storage capacity

abdulwastecx:


You just made remembered pipe network analysis.
Water demand is not a factor that reduce pressure head. Water demand will affect your storage capacity

He meant to say usage per time. Running many tap simultaneously reduces that available to others especially if the main supply pipe presents a bottleneck.

abdulwastecx:


Height of tank is a function (pressure head) is govern by the hight of the highest place where you will like to take the water to. For a bungalow of less than 3.5 m from ground level, height of over head tank can be 6m

6m = ~20feet

Shower head and fire sprinklers is highest point.

So 20 feet above shower head or 20 feet from ground level?

Thanks Sir.