kiekie1:


They are more efficient dear.. Under proper charging algorithm settings , your ep ever 40a works well on flooded battery's cos it has ability to equalize too.. You can also Contact me for optional MT50 remote (black color) @ just 16k for user defined settings .. Thanks

@kiekie1,pls be explicit about the functions of this MT50 remote,i guess i manna need it.Thanks

Monlo:



@kiekie1,pls be explicit about the functions of this MT50 remote,i guess i manna need it.Thanks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQx54vBDcTo

MT50 features are all clearly stated online .. Pls simply contact me for enquiries or purchase if interested !! Thanks

That's my set up...with my 150*6=900 watts at 24v in panel I can power my fridge 110 watts and a ceiling fan and also a 45 Watts plasma TV. In as much as I can't afford the high cost of getting an mppt, I must say that my pwm charge controllers are not doing bad at all. No matter how cloudy the day might be I can always power my frigde within a minimum of 4 hours everyday,but when we have a sunny day I can power my frigde up to 6 hours from 11am to 5pm.

abunafiu:


ure welcome sir. so how has it been.

Its been gud Sir. A big kudos to u guys who run on bigger set ups. I will be there some day.

Try buy an mppt.......d difference is clear! Common u have six panels....why can't you afford an mppt even if not brand new? Try to make ur connections neater

Obimind1:
That's my set up...with my 150*6=900 watts at 24v in panel I can power my fridge 110 watts and a ceiling fan and also a 45 Watts plasma TV. In as much as I can't afford the high cost of getting an mppt, I must say that my pwm charge controllers are not doing bad at all. No matter how cloudy the day might be I can always power my frigde within a minimum of 4 hours everyday,but when we have a sunny day I can power my frigde up to 6 hours from 11am to 5pm.

DMerciful:
Try buy an mppt.......d difference is clear! Common u have six panels....why can't you afford an mppt even if not brand new? Try to make ur connections neater

I've always had an mppt on my mind... I started using solar panels just four months ago and my batteries clocked 2 years plus as at June this year. So gradually am stepping up. I'll definitely give my testimony when my mppt finally arrives. But 1st I'm trusting God that my next upgrade will be getting a 3.5kva inverter. I only turn on my generator when I want to pump water to my overhead tank. Renewable Energy is a sure way of investing and cutting cost on power generation. A big thanks to u guys for always being a source of inspiration to me and many other silent readers.

Obimind1:

I've always had an mppt on my mind... I started using solar panels just four months ago and my batteries clocked 2 years plus as at June this year. So gradually am stepping up. I'll definitely give my testimony when my mppt finally arrives. But 1st I'm trusting God that my next upgrade will be getting a 3.5kva inverter. I only turn on my generator when I want to pump water to my overhead tank. Renewable Energy is a sure way of investing and cutting cost on power generation. A big thanks to u guys for always being a source of inspiration to me and many other silent readers.

kindly send me an email. check my signature for mu Ymail address.

bigrovar:
for those interested in the device, it does have timer function but it can not be timed by watt threshold (unless one has access to the SDK and modify some parameters.)

anochuks08. I am the one that called you earlier.

Good day house,reminder of GENNEX TECHNOLOGIES, we have products in stock, GENNEX GEL BATTERIES 12v200ah, 1-5kva GENNEX hybrid inverters with MPPT charge controller , professional solar mount accessories, mc4 connectors, e.t.c contact us on 08145463278 and also high quality canadian solar panels,all at a reasonable rate , contact us 08145463278

Your prices please.

Gennextech:
Good day house,reminder of GENNEX TECHNOLOGIES, we have products in stock, GENNEX GEL BATTERIES 12v200ah, 1-5kva GENNEX hybrid inverters with MPPT charge controller , professional solar mount accessories, mc4 connectors, e.t.c contact us on 08145463278 and also high quality canadian solar panels,all at a reasonable rate , contact us 08145463278

anochuks08:
Pointing to ur No 3, the difference in Voltage will be converted to current via an Mppt Controller. The more the difference, the greater the harvest, provided Mppt is in play. To No 1, I may be wrong and stand to be corrected, but I think distance matters between the charge controller and battery bank. it is advised to maintain the shortest distance possible from charge controller to your battery bank to improve efficiency.

1...mppt only helps to find the point of "maximum power" transfer and it supplies your battery at that point.this is simpy the point when the inout resistance equals the output resistance; perturbing and other methods are used to find that point in PV modules.
AC can effectively convert voltage to AMPS with the use of electromagnetic induction,but we are dealing with DC. except you can tell me how the mppt converts excess voltage to current tho...

2..concerning my "number 1"...you are right but partially. distance matters from panel to CC to battery. Wherever DC is carried with significant AMPs then distance becomes important. However, proper sizing of cables conducting the DC can reduce the ohmic losses.

PS: d issue of distance is one of the reasons AC is employed in national power distribution rather than DC.

please can i have ur email address

shiftmarket:
Your prices please.

anidat77:
My people,I just received this panel I ordered through konga.
It looks really strange without the cell terminals in front of the cells.
I don't even want to test it yet.
Please can anyone tell me this is not a fake.
Nairalanders what do you guys think.

Hi anidat77, Konga is just a market platform; please who is the actual seller on Konga that sold you these questionable panels?

Read about DC to DC converters then you'll know how mppt works and fully appreciate how excess voltage is converted to current. Just a simple calibration, when a device is 99% efficient by design, and you put in 66V,10A(660W) to give 653.4W output by virtue of being 0.99 efficient. So if the output voltage is 24v, what will be the output current? This is basic physics!

Trippledots:


1...mppt only helps to find the point of "maximum power" transfer and it supplies your battery at that point.this is simpy the point when the inout resistance equals the output resistance; perturbing and other methods are used to find that point in PV modules.
AC can effectively convert voltage to AMPS with the use of electromagnetic induction,but we are dealing with DC. except you can tell me how the mppt converts excess voltage to current tho...

2..concerning my "number 1"...you are right but partially. distance matters from panel to CC to battery. Wherever DC is carried with significant AMPs then distance becomes important. However, proper sizing of cables conducting the DC can reduce the ohmic losses.

PS: d issue of distance is one of the reasons AC is employed in national power distribution rather than DC.

KILL A WATT METER is a device you plug between your wall socket and an electrical appliance to find out how much energy the appliance uses.

At home you can plug one into your refrigerator, TV, computer,
microwave, electric heater, stereo etc... And at work you can use one to
check out the energy consumption of various bits of equipment such as
computers, photocopiers, fax machines, and fans. You'll probably be quite surprised at how much electricity some things
use...

Why should i use it?
Believe it or not, some bad electrical items even use energy when they're switched off! These bad items are called "electricity vampires" because they keep sucking electricity until you unplug them or switch them off at the wall. A plug-in meter will enable you to hunt down these electricity vampires and any other
faulty or inefficient equipment that's using more energy than it should... Once you've
found the worst offenders you can repair or replace them, or at least take special care
to switch them off or unplug them when they're not needed. Some appliances, such as refrigerators, can cost a small fortune to run if they're a bit
worse for wear, so it's very important to check such items every so often to ensure
that they're not pouring energy and money down the drain. Even if you don't find any inefficient equipment, using one of these plug-in electricity
usage monitors will almost certainly make you more aware of your energy
consumption, and you can use the figures from it to encourage your co-workers or
family to be more careful about switching things off when they're not needed.

What are the features?

The Kill-A-Watt Meter -
this is the basic model that lets you read the instantaneous Watts, Volts, Current, Frequency,
Power Factor, and VA, and keeps a running total of kWh (energy
consumption) and the total time since the power was switched on.

The Kill-A-Watt Meter -
this enhanced model does all the above, but also lets you program in the price you pay for
electricity so it can keep a running total of cost as well as kWh,
and give you projected costs per hour, day, week, month and year.
When you have the kWh, calculating these costs is simple enough,
but it's pretty handy to have the meter do it for you automatically.

The other advantage of the watts meter is that it doesn't lose its cumulative totals when it's unplugged or there's a power cut (you have to physically hold the reset button to reset the totals). Unit price : #8000.00

kiekie1:
KILL A WATT METER is a device you plug between your wall socket and an electrical appliance to find out how much energy the appliance uses.

At home you can plug one into your refrigerator, TV, computer,
microwave, electric heater, stereo etc... And at work you can use one to
check out the energy consumption of various bits of equipment such as
computers, photocopiers, fax machines, and fans. You'll probably be quite surprised at how much electricity some things
use...

Why should i use it?
Believe it or not, some bad electrical items even use energy when they're switched off! These bad items are called "electricity vampires" because they keep sucking electricity until you unplug them or switch them off at the wall. A plug-in meter will enable you to hunt down these electricity vampires and any other
faulty or inefficient equipment that's using more energy than it should... Once you've
found the worst offenders you can repair or replace them, or at least take special care
to switch them off or unplug them when they're not needed. Some appliances, such as refrigerators, can cost a small fortune to run if they're a bit
worse for wear, so it's very important to check such items every so often to ensure
that they're not pouring energy and money down the drain. Even if you don't find any inefficient equipment, using one of these plug-in electricity
usage monitors will almost certainly make you more aware of your energy
consumption, and you can use the figures from it to encourage your co-workers or
family to be more careful about switching things off when they're not needed.

What are the features?

The Kill-A-Watt Meter -
this is the basic model that lets you read the instantaneous Watts, Volts, Current, Frequency,
Power Factor, and VA, and keeps a running total of kWh (energy
consumption) and the total time since the power was switched on.

The Kill-A-Watt Meter -
this enhanced model does all the above, but also lets you program in the price you pay for
electricity so it can keep a running total of cost as well as kWh,
and give you projected costs per hour, day, week, month and year.
When you have the kWh, calculating these costs is simple enough,
but it's pretty handy to have the meter do it for you automatically.

The other advantage of the watts meter is that it doesn't lose its cumulative totals when it's unplugged or there's a power cut (you have to physically hold the reset button to reset the totals).

Unit price : #8000.00
For best affordable prices,proforma invoices valid for just 1 week, contact Smartcell Global Services,Lagos Nigeria. Simply call Sir Frankie "08135031951" for purchase,fast delivery and waybills .. Thanks !!

kiekie1:
KILL A WATT METER is a device you plug between your wall socket and an electrical appliance to find out how much energy the appliance uses.

At home you can plug one into your refrigerator, TV, computer,
microwave, electric heater, stereo etc... And at work you can use one to
check out the energy consumption of various bits of equipment such as
computers, photocopiers, fax machines, and fans. You'll probably be quite surprised at how much electricity some things
use...

Why should i use it?
Believe it or not, some bad electrical items even use energy when they're switched off! These bad items are called "electricity vampires" because they keep sucking electricity until you unplug them or switch them off at the wall. A plug-in meter will enable you to hunt down these electricity vampires and any other
faulty or inefficient equipment that's using more energy than it should... Once you've
found the worst offenders you can repair or replace them, or at least take special care
to switch them off or unplug them when they're not needed. Some appliances, such as refrigerators, can cost a small fortune to run if they're a bit
worse for wear, so it's very important to check such items every so often to ensure
that they're not pouring energy and money down the drain. Even if you don't find any inefficient equipment, using one of these plug-in electricity
usage monitors will almost certainly make you more aware of your energy
consumption, and you can use the figures from it to encourage your co-workers or
family to be more careful about switching things off when they're not needed.

What are the features?

The Kill-A-Watt Meter -
this is the basic model that lets you read the instantaneous Watts, Volts, Current, Frequency,
Power Factor, and VA, and keeps a running total of kWh (energy
consumption) and the total time since the power was switched on.

The Kill-A-Watt Meter -
this enhanced model does all the above, but also lets you program in the price you pay for
electricity so it can keep a running total of cost as well as kWh,
and give you projected costs per hour, day, week, month and year.
When you have the kWh, calculating these costs is simple enough,
but it's pretty handy to have the meter do it for you automatically.

The other advantage of the watts meter is that it doesn't lose its cumulative totals when it's unplugged or there's a power cut (you have to physically hold the reset button to reset the totals).

Very nice machine,the one i have can actually be programmed to switch on and off at set times,eventhough it cost me a fortune to import.Green all the way.One love

Monlo:




Very nice machine,the one i have can actually be programmed to switch on and off at set times,eventhough it cost me a fortune to import.Green all the way.One love

Okay, programmable weekly timer switches are also available likewise watts meter with there different basic features ... Holla or refer a pal if interested !! Thanks

Trippledots:


1...mppt only helps to find the point of "maximum power" transfer and it supplies your battery at that point.this is simpy the point when the inout resistance equals the output resistance; perturbing and other methods are used to find that point in PV modules.
AC can effectively convert voltage to AMPS with the use of electromagnetic induction,but we are dealing with DC. except you can tell me how the mppt converts excess voltage to current tho...

2..concerning my "number 1"...you are right but partially. distance matters from panel to CC to battery. Wherever DC is carried with significant AMPs then distance becomes important. However, proper sizing of cables conducting the DC can reduce the ohmic losses.

PS: d issue of distance is one of the reasons AC is employed in national power distribution rather than DC.

You are over thinking this. Might want to do a simple Google search. Maximum power point tracking tracks tracks the power generated by your panel and uses the optimum value to charge your battery. Let's say I have 2 panels each at the following specifications
PMAX 240w
VOC 37.8
VMP 30.5
IMP 7.8

My battery bank is 24v. If I do a parallel connection. The VMP of my panel would be inadequate to properly charge my battery which requires at least 28.4v on regular charge and 30v on equalisation charge. Wiring loss, heat loss and general non standard condition would ensure that I never 30v from the panel to the controller.

My best bet is to connect in series. Series connection would give me about 60v VMP from my panels. More than enough voltage to charge my battery. However if I used a PWM controller. PWM would be unable to utilise all of my panel PMAX. It would only be able to use roughly half panel capacity. Other half is wasted.. because pwm does not have a DC to DC converter. It only takes about 28v required to charge battery and 7Amps.

An MPPT is a different beast. It will take the 60vmp coming from the panel and down convert to about 28v needed for my battery. The rest is converted to amps.. and added to the 7amps coming from my panels so in the end my battery gets about 28v 15-17amps on a decent day (plus or minus )

Of cause no conversion is 100% some energy is lost during the conversation stage but in all most mppt are 97% efficient. The mppt tracks your panel through out the day delivering the optimum charge to your battery based on panel PMAX which changes based on weather conditions.

One out of the numerous advantage of using MPPT is it saves on wiring. You spend less on wiring because you can string your panels in series to 3 times your battery nominal voltage (higher voltage means less resistance)

It also get the best out of panels whose nominal voltage is too low to effectively charge a battery. A good 12v panels should have a VMP of at least 18v anything less and you need an mppt otherwise u won't be able to efficiently charge your battery.

PWM are not useless. They are ideal for small installations where the battery nominal voltage is close to panel voltage. And cabling between panel and battery is very short. The relatively high power usage of an mppt might make it less ideal for such applications.

DMerciful:
Read about DC to DC converters then you'll know how mppt works and fully appreciate how excess voltage is converted to current. Just a simple calibration, when a device is 99% efficient by design, and you put in 66V,10A(660W) to give 653.4W output by virtue of being 0.99 efficient. So if the output voltage is 24v, what will be the output current? This is basic physics!

ok...

bigrovar:


You are over thinking this. Might want to do a simple Google search. Maximum power point tracking tracks tracks the power generated by your panel and uses the optimum value to charge your battery. Let's say I have 2 panels each at the following specifications
PMAX 240w
VOC 37.8
VMP 30.5
IMP 7.8

My battery bank is 24v. If I do a parallel connection. The VMP of my panel would be inadequate to properly charge my battery which requires at least 28.4v on regular charge and 30v on equalisation charge. Wiring loss, heat loss and general non standard condition would ensure that I never 30v from the panel to the controller.

My best bet is to connect in series. Series connection would give me about 60v VMP from my panels. More than enough voltage to charge my battery. However if I used a PWM controller. PWM would be unable to utilise all of my panel PMAX. It would only be able to use roughly half panel capacity. Other half is wasted.. because pwm does not have a DC to DC converter. It only takes about 28v required to charge battery and 7Amps.

An MPPT is a different beast. It will take the 60vmp coming from the panel and down convert to about 28v needed for my battery. The rest is converted to amps.. and added to the 7amps coming from my panels so in the end my battery gets about 28v 15-17amps on a decent day (plus or minus )

Of cause no conversion is 100% some energy is lost during the conversation stage but in all most mppt are 97% efficient. The mppt tracks your panel through out the day delivering the optimum charge to your battery based on panel PMAX which changes based on weather conditions.

One out of the numerous advantage of using MPPT is it saves on wiring. You spend less on wiring because you can string your panels in series to 3 times your battery nominal voltage (higher voltage means less resistance)

It also get the best out of panels whose nominal voltage is too low to effectively charge a battery. A good 12v panels should have a VMP of at least 18v anything less and you need an mppt otherwise u won't be able to efficiently charge your battery.

PWM are not useless. They are ideal for small installations where the battery nominal voltage is close to panel voltage. And cabling between panel and battery is very short. The relatively high power usage of an mppt might make it less ideal for such applications.

ok...

PWM vs MPPT is like Petrol generator vs gas turbine.
Cheap vs costly at low capacity
Less efficient vs more efficient as capacity increases
Costly vs cheap at large capacity


If you're only concern about, say less than 2kwhr usage per day, PWM is enough so long as panel Vmp is matched with battery Vmax and panel is of adequate capacity. Otherwise MPPT wins.

Please house I want to ask, is there a maximum number of parallel connections that can be done when doing series-parallel battery connection? Let's say a 24v inverter and the owner wants to connect up to 10, 20 or even more batteries in series n parallel to increase power, is there a maximum number of allowed parallel connection?

iLoveTheSun:
@anidat77
Can you please upload a picture of the name/type plate please?!

Your module is made of back contact cells, those are manufactured by Sunpower et al.
They have one of the highest efficiency in the market, because there are no frontside bars.
There are small holes that lead the front to the backside.

I have a solar installation with Sunpower modules as well. Each module (1,65 x 1,05m) is 310 Watts(peak)!

The open-current voltage is higher than other solar modules. So, you need to get the right solar charger.

sunny regards,

@ iLoveTheSun
thanks for the info man.....It really a scared me when I saw them looking different until I did some research and actually got them tested. Its not Sunpower though, I'll watch its performance as time goes on. Got me 4 panels to upgrade my old two 200Ah batteries / 24v inverter system.
Here's the label behind it and hey guys just received my Epever tracer controller today too.
I'm looking towards the pole mount options to mount the panels to a water tank stand (Diplomatic limitations on using the roof) hope I get good house of sunshine out of shades, hope you guys guide me through alternative mounting options.

With you guys all the way" Going green rocks"...

anidat77:




@ iLoveTheSun
thanks for the info man.....It really a scared me when I saw them looking different until I did some research and actually got them tested. Its not Sunpower though, I'll watch its performance as time goes on. Got me 4 panels to upgrade my old two 200Ah batteries / 24v inverter system.
Here's the label behind it and hey guys just received my Epever tracer controller today too.
I'm looking towards the pole mount options to mount the panels to a water tank stand (Diplomatic limitations on using the roof) hope I get good house of sunshine out of shades, hope you guys guide me through alternative mounting options.

With you guys all the way" Going green rocks"...

If the nominal voltage of your panel is 24v then your best bet is a series parallel connection. Beware of shading when mounting your panels. Make sure there are not structures that can cast shade on your panel. Also make sure your panel faces south.. and ensure it is grounded.

anochuks08:
Please house I want to ask, is there a maximum number of parallel connections that can be done when doing series-parallel connection?

If you're referring to battery, it depends on your inverter specification; if solar panel, it depends on maximum open circuit voltage your charge controller can handle (some mppt cc are rated to 150V, some 600V)

mank1234:


If you're referring to battery, it depends on your inverter specification; if solar panel, it depends on maximum open circuit voltage your charge controller can handle (some mppt cc are rated to 150V, some 600V)

I am talking of battery connection. let's say a 24v inverter and the owner wants to connect up to 10, 20 or even more batteries in series n parallel to increase power, is there a maximum number of allowed parallel connection?

anochuks08:
I am talking of battery connection. let's say a 24v inverter and the owner wants to connect up to 10, 20 or even more batteries in series n parallel to increase power, is there a maximum number of allowed parallel connection?

Yes, rule of thumb says max 3 strings.

Come to think if it, if u connect 20batteries in a 24v system, how would you get them charged?

Nothing Kills a battery like undercharging.

If owner wants higher backup power, increase the DC voltage to maybe 48v or get lower voltage and higher AH batteries.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

anidat77:




@ iLoveTheSun
thanks for the info man.....It really a scared me when I saw them looking different until I did some research and actually got them tested. Its not Sunpower though, I'll watch its performance as time goes on. Got me 4 panels to upgrade my old two 200Ah batteries / 24v inverter system.
Here's the label behind it and hey guys just received my Epever tracer controller today too.
I'm looking towards the pole mount options to mount the panels to a water tank stand (Diplomatic limitations on using the roof) hope I get good house of sunshine out of shades, hope you guys guide me through alternative mounting options.

With you guys all the way" Going green rocks"...

This ain't a German panel OK...! White back sheet ain't as standard as German spec from pics you posted , branding ain't like German , max fuse rating comes in (A).. Thanks !

Konnektions146:

Yes, rule of thumb says max 3 strings.

Come to think if it, if u connect 20batteries in a 24v system, how would you get them charged?

Nothing Kills a battery like undercharging.

If owner wants higher backup power, increase the DC voltage to maybe 48v or get lower voltage and higher AH batteries.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Thanks. Noted. I am asking cos I use 12 batteries in my 24v system (100ah). So I have 6 parallel connections. For charging, an external smart charger does the work. I am asking to know whether I should reduce the batteries in the bank.

anochuks08:
I am talking of battery connection. let's say a 24v inverter and the owner wants to connect up to 10, 20 or even more batteries in series n parallel to increase power, is there a maximum number of allowed parallel connection?

By 24V you're already limited by the number of series setup to 2 in series if using 12V batteries. For the paralleling, theoretically it's unlimited, but in reality for longevity of your battery you'll be constrained by how many Amp your charger can charge per time.

mank1234:


By 24V you're already limited by the number of series setup to 2 in series if using 12V batteries. For the paralleling, theoretically it's unlimited, but in reality for longevity of your battery you'll be constrained by how many Amp your charger can charge per time.

Thanks mahn. I appreciate