Happy weekend to you all.

Let's actualize and anchor your agricultural investments and dreams#OlaraysConsultingFirm#PlantPhysiologist#GreenHouseAgronomist#OpenFieldAgronomist

Happy weekend to you all

Happy Sunday to you all.

Been dry season or rainy season, with your green house production you are good to go. Contact for your open field irrigated farm set up, green house production and farm consultancy. Put your investment in good hands#GreenHouseAgronomist#FieldAgronomist#TomatoesAllYearRound#FeedingTheWorld#NoFarmerNoNation

Doing what I know how to do best. Not all Sundays are free for a committed agronomist. Early morning pictures of my few weeks babies#FeedTheNation#GreenHouseAgronomist#Consultant#Tomatoes#EvaF1#DirectPlanting

Happy sunday

Do you sell the Main line (2nd pic above) for drip irrigation, and how much per metre.

Also, please what model pumping machine have used and can recommended for a 1 hectare drip irrigation supplied from a 40,000 litre water storage tank.

Thank you.

please do you construct green house for hydroponic fodder

We sell and install galvanized tunnels not construct sir

wengerman:
please do you construct green house for hydroponic fodder

Doing what I know how to do best #GreenHouseConsultant#FarmSetup#IrrigationSpecialist#GreenHouseAgronomist#OpenFieldAgronomist

Hi bro!

Well done.

1. Please, how do you manage soil diseases?

2. Looks like it is only tomatoes you cultivate in your nethouse. Do you practise crop rotation. If yes, which crops?

3. I am just curious how you diagnosed the diseases in the soil before you transplanted those tomato plants. Suppose you have a new site, how do you know if the soil is infected with bactetia wilt, fusarium wilt, nematode, etc.? Or is it that you just transplant and hope you are successful? Just curious to know.

Green houses are reserved for tomatoes and peppers alone due to the expensive nature of the investment for quick return on investment and those are not net house but a tunnel or simply call green house here
Secondly your location determines the pre management practices prior to transplanting. If within south west, east or southsouth, grow bags are always recommended while your soil will be properly sterilized lastly if it's a new site you have to go for soil test and also practice good management practices so the land is not destroyed through infections using recommended fungicides and you can't practice crop rotation in a green house, best is to fallow the land for few months before planting and if using grow bags then that's not needed and on diagnosing infections and correcting with the actual active ingredients is part of our job.

fluentinfor:
Hi bro!

Well done.

1. Please, how do you manage soil diseases?

2. Looks like it is only tomatoes you cultivate in your nethouse. Do you practise crop rotation. If yes, which crops?

3. I am just curious how you diagnosed the diseases in the soil before you transplanted those tomato plants. Suppose you have a new site, how do you know if the soil is infected with bactetia wilt, fusarium wilt, nematode, etc.? Or is it that you just transplant and hope you are successful? Just curious to know.

fluentinfor:
Hi bro!

Well done.

1. Please, how do you manage soil diseases?

2. Looks like it is only tomatoes you cultivate in your nethouse. Do you practise crop rotation. If yes, which crops?

3. I am just curious how you diagnosed the diseases in the soil before you transplanted those tomato plants. Suppose you have a new site, how do you know if the soil is infected with bactetia wilt, fusarium wilt, nematode, etc.? Or is it that you just transplant and hope you are successful? Just curious to know.

this year I farmed maize in taraba,
but I lost my hard earned #800,000 In my second NL account I had started a thread for the project.
Although I i wish to remain ananimous on this one, I had started updating on how it's possible to get for investors 50% ROI in 6-8months

in my years of farming I must confess its alot saffer and better to farm rice during the dry season,
it gives better ROI than all the crops I know trust me on this.

if you are one that invest in agriculture I may like to pm you,
so we can continue from there.

having said that to answer your question on op

1. Op boil hot water and soak your land always before transplanting,
this will kill all the nematods et al...
but it will also kill the soil nutrient.
if you have moringa seeds and neem seeds grind them,
and add goat dung 1wheel barrow upwards depending on how big your land is + very small quantity of ashes (goat dung is far better than sheep and cow you'll thank me later in the future) but that's if you're pro organic like myself

2. If the land needs what I like to call soil adjustment, I can make it fertile with a product I designed that can make unhabitable lands fertile.

its not yet out in the market but I've used it from 2013 to this year,
like I said I lost my farm to herds men this year.
I can prove it I still own the land in taraba,
but I'll never farm here again i'm moving back to my state we still have a very good land especially for rice farming.

sorry for the digresion and advert at op.

thanks for your time at every potential investors.

oladiran2:
Green houses are reserved for tomatoes and peppers alone due to the expensive nature of the investment for quick return on investment and those are not net house but a tunnel or simply call green house here
Secondly your location determines the pre management practices prior to transplanting. If within south west, east or southsouth, grow bags are always recommended while your soil will be properly sterilized lastly if it's a new site you have to go for soil test and also practice good management practices so the land is not destroyed through infections using recommended fungicides and you can't practice crop rotation in a green house, best is to fallow the land for few months before planting and if using grow bags then that's not needed and on diagnosing infections and correcting with the actual active ingredients is part of our job.

Though, I expected you to give me answers to each questions numbered and not mix all up, but it is fine.

On the bolded phrase above, you actually got it wrong. Greenhouse is the general term for all covered structures no matter the materials you use for it. Yours is both a tunnel and a nethouse. It is a tunnel because the structure is like a tunnel with galvanised arcs used to construct the roof. And it is a net house because you have nets by the sides. In fact, the first greenhouse made was with glass to prevent pest and to trap heat during winter. So, when you check for the meaning of a greenhouse, this is what you might find. However, it is generally accepted that any structure which prevents pests from having easy access is a greenhouse.

These are the points I can get from you:

1. You do not do crop rotation as you believe it is only tomatoes and pepper that are possible because these crops are the only ones profitable under covered production. (Not sure how you arrive at this).

2. One should do soil test to determine disease. (I agree with you)

3. If you detect infection, grow bags will be used. (Nice recommendation but might be there are other options).

4. You leave the greenhouse for some months without planting anything there to prevent disease accumulation in soil. (Just wondering how profitable this idea is considering high cost of set up and very limited land area of cultivation).

Thanks for your answers. God bless you sir. But I have just one more question.

1. The kind of soil test you mentioned above must be for diseases. It is identification of bacteria and fungi in the soil. It involves culturing to see which organism(s) is/are present. Sir, if you have done this kind of test you have suggested, could you name laboratories or places they are done? Please sir, i want to go to the places to submit my samples. If you know, please tell me. If you do not know and you have not done it before, please avoid giving me any recommendation. We want to see if we have bacteria wilt, fusarium wilt, nematode, and other pathogens up to about 30 kinds in our soil.

Do you know why I am asking? Many consultants will just say that you do soil test. But it is only NPK, PH, salinity, and other minor tests that is done in 99% laboratories here in Nigeria. North, East, West and South. Everywhere. So, where exactly have you done your own tests for disease diagnosis in soil? I want to send my soil samples there.

Also, such result should give sensitivity report too. Which active ingredient must be used. So, I do not think it is your job to make any recommendation like you claimed. It is the report that will show me which is not effective, moderately effective, and highly effective. Just exactly how doctors follow reports on results. It is the report that tells the doctor to use cipro and not erythromycin. Or when to use ofloxacin and reject penicilin.

Doctors in the house can come out here to say I am wrong if I am. When they too do not use just use any laboratory in Nigeria again as most are terrible. In fact, many of them are beggining to send samples abroad for tests cos they cannot rely on the results here. Have you been to laboratories meant for detection of pathogens in blood, fluid and semen? Then you know that samples are easily contaminated there.

I have been looking for one. Please, could you mention one place in this Nigeria that you are about 90% sure that I will get good result? I will go to the place sharp sharp, and return to give you credit that yes, your recommendation is super. Please, tell me where you are sure and not just mention some places like IITA thing. Please, kindly direct me to the exact place in any institution or place. If you do not want to write it here, i can send you email.

I believe a professional like you should know. And i will still come here to say that where you recommended is super.

Hope to read from you and get an excellent recommendation which you have used before and you know they can do it very well. Thank you in advance.

Thank you for your comments. I am just trying to get more options and I have learned new ways from you.

Codeofconduct:


this year I farmed maize in taraba,
but I lost my hard earned #800,000 In my second NL account I had started a thread for the project.
Although I i wish to remain ananimous on this one, I had started updating on how it's possible to get for investors 50% ROI in 6-8months

in my years of farming I must confess its alot saffer and better to farm rice during the dry season,
it gives better ROI than all the crops I know trust me on this.

if you are one that invest in agriculture I may like to pm you,
so we can continue from there.

having said that to answer your question on op

1. Op boil hot water and soak your land always before transplanting,
this will kill all the nematods et al...
but it will also kill the soil nutrient.
if you have moringa seeds and neem seeds grind them,
and add goat dung 1wheel barrow upwards depending on how big your land is + very small quantity of ashes (goat dung is far better than sheep and cow you'll thank me later in the future) but that's if you're pro organic like myself

2. If the land needs what I like to call soil adjustment, I can make it fertile with a product I designed that can make unhabitable lands fertile.

its not yet out in the market but I've used it from 2013 to this year,
like I said I lost my farm to herds men this year.
I can prove it I still own the land in taraba,
but I'll never farm here again i'm moving back to my state we still have a very good land especially for rice farming.

sorry for the digresion and advert at op.

thanks for your time at every potential investors.

Concerning the maize thread, you can attract investors when you tell the real story and what you have done to improve the situation there. In addition, you talk about the risks involved. Who you will get are investors who are ready to bear any loss, and not the MMM kinds that will give you high blood pressure. The result of your project determines if they stay with you or leave you. So, what you are about doing can break or lift you. Just be careful how you go about it. If you do not mind, you can send me email via the right channel and give me the link to the maize thread since you said you want to remain unknown. Let us see what you have. Perhaps some of my questions and comments can help you along the way. If you want.


On the option of using boiled water to kill pathogens. I can tell you that it is not effective. It is not just. First, how much water will one boil and use to soak one acre of covered production? Second, mushroom growers know better that 4 to 8 hours of pasteurization gets the job done.

Yeah. I have been trying to get neem cake, and I agree using the two seeds you mentioned will be effective. Neem leaves can be grinded with the seeds too. However, I am just looking at the cost. It will be too expensive. Too damn expensive.

Well, i do not know why you wrote that goat is better but I assume it granules nature was the reason. For me, dung is dung as long as long as it is well composted. It is a fact that goat dungs turn to "powder- like black soil" too when turned to compost, I believe you are talking about fresh manure. In such case, if fresh, goat might be preferrable. Rabbit dung is even the best. And you can use the urine too. But using fresh goat releases nutrients gradually just like granules fertilizers. So, I understand your points perfectly. You may add to mine why you prefer it.

About the last product you mentioned, if possible and if you can release the ingredient, I may try it. I do not know if you do not want yo release it a public forum like this. If yes, we can still find a way you tell me about it. I won't mind trying it.

Thanks!

For your understanding on question 1, it's arrived at that from the fact that an average human being will definitely take either one of those two vegetables in a day, have short period to harvesting. From seed to harvesting is just about 3 months which means two months after transplanting you will start your harvest gradually till yield start increasing over time.

On number 3, you are not using grow bags not to have issues with soil borne diseases but they can be contained than it taking over the whole tunnel if it had been a direct soil planting as you can easily break and carry the infected bag out of the tunnel which is not possible in direct planting,even if you remove,tomato roots will still probably elongate to that place under the soil and they are mostly soil born pathogens. Your fungicides of subsequent drenching and spraying should be readily available and not just spray anything for the sake of spraying, you can't cure malaria with headache drugs, that has been the serious issue on farms. Reason you must do a proper sterilization and not just anyhow and be careful with the management practices along the cycle of the plants not to get them infected because that happens a lot as there are practices involved during the production stages like sucker removal which germs can easily be transmitted to your tomato plants and they are very fragile plants compare to the resistivity in peppers.

On number 4,green house investment is not for a child investor, to be sustainable you are to have at least 5 green houses. You can't buy just one or two and expect to be sustainable, it could be under very good management but tough. So when you have 5, you can easily do your planning and scheduling the planting of each of the tunnels as normally you are not expected to plant the whole tunnels at once.

Am definitely glad to help, I agree we don't have much soil sample places done based on pathogens but more of nutrient in soils. Currently on consultancy on babangida's farm and I was shown the one done from federal university of technology, minna which definitely indicates the micro organisms available in d soil, anywhere with biotechnology would do. IITA will as well but not in anyhow of their branches nationwide but at the one in Ibadan cos I know they don't do it at their branch in abuja. The Ibadan branch is their headquarter so it will be available there. Try my Alma mata too if you are in southwest, federal university of agriculture, abeokuta and heard there is a private one in abuja as well doing such test.

fluentinfor:


Though, I expected you to give me answers to each questions numbered and not mix all up, but it is fine.

These are the points I can get from you:

1. You do not do crop rotation as you believe it is only tomatoes and pepper only that are possible because these crops are the only ones profitsble under for covered production. (Not sure how you arrive at this).

2. One should do soil test to determine disease. (I agree with you)

3. If you detect infection, grow bags will be used. (Nice recommendation but might be there are other options).

4. You leave the greenhouse for some months without planting anything there to prevent disease accumulation in soil. (Just wondering how profitable this idea is).

Thanks for your answers. God bless you sir.
I have just one more question sir.

1. The kind of soil test you mentioned above must be for diseases. It is identification of bacteria and fungi in the soil. It involves culturing to see which organism(s) is/are present. Sir, if you have done this kind of test you have suggested, could you name laboratories or places they are done? Please sir, i want to go to the places to do. If you know, please tell me. If you do not know and you have not done it before, please kindly just say so. We want to see if we have bacteria wilt, fusarium wilt, nematode, and other pathogens up to about 30 kinds in our soil.

Do you know why I am asking? Many consultants will just say that you do soil test. But it is only NPK, PH and other minor tests that is done in 99% laboratories here in Nigeria. North, East, West and South. Everywhere. So, where exactly have you done your own tests for disease diagnosis in soil? I want to send my soil samples there.

Doctors in the house can come out here to say I am wrong if I am. When they too do not use just use any laboratory in Nigeria again as most are terrible. In fact, many of them are beggining to send samples abroad for tests cos they cannot rely on the results here. Have you been to laboratories meant for detection of pathogens in blood, fluid and semen? Then you know that samples are easily contaminated there.

I have been looking for one. Please, could you mention one place in this Nigeria that you are about 90% sure that I will get good result? I will go to the place sharp sharp, and return to give you credit that yes, your recommendation is super. Please, tell me where you are sure and not just mention some places like IITA thing. Please, kindly direct me to the exact place in any institution or place. If you do not want to write it here, i can send you email.

I believe a professional like you should know. And i will still come here to say that where you recommended is super.

Hope to read from you and get an excellent recommendation which you have used before and you know they can do it very well. Thank you in advance.

Apply goat, cow, sheep or any grass eating animal on your land and you will be sorry for the damage you would have cause on such land, weeding would take over all your profit. It will not be funny if tried during raining seasons. Stick with poultry manure and you are safe with just normal growth of weed on such land but with those mentioned above, you will end up abandoning the land due to weed frustration as you will be surprised at their level of growth.

Codeofconduct:


this year I farmed maize in taraba,
but I lost my hard earned #800,000 In my second NL account I had started a thread for the project.
Although I i wish to remain ananimous on this one, I had started updating on how it's possible to get for investors 50% ROI in 6-8months

in my years of farming I must confess its alot saffer and better to farm rice during the dry season,
it gives better ROI than all the crops I know trust me on this.

if you are one that invest in agriculture I may like to pm you,
so we can continue from there.

having said that to answer your question on op

1. Op boil hot water and soak your land always before transplanting,
this will kill all the nematods et al...
but it will also kill the soil nutrient.
if you have moringa seeds and neem seeds grind them,
and add goat dung 1wheel barrow upwards depending on how big your land is + very small quantity of ashes (goat dung is far better than sheep and cow you'll thank me later in the future) but that's if you're pro organic like myself

2. If the land needs what I like to call soil adjustment, I can make it fertile with a product I designed that can make unhabitable lands fertile.

its not yet out in the market but I've used it from 2013 to this year,
like I said I lost my farm to herds men this year.
I can prove it I still own the land in taraba,
but I'll never farm here again i'm moving back to my state we still have a very good land especially for rice farming.

sorry for the digresion and advert at op.

thanks for your time at every potential investors.

Thanks for the recommendation. I will check the Minna option as i have tried the others (ibadan and abeokuta) you mentioned but I was not satisfied. One thing is they do, another is that the samples arent contaminated. Anyway, thank you. Actually, i felt you did one by yourself. But i will still check the place. Thanks!

About not using goat, sheep and cow dung. You are absolutely right about the weed issue. However, you did not take into consideration some other available options. I expect you to be using mulch in your nethouses at this stage and with your level. I did not want to mention it earlier but since you brought the issue up, I think I suggest you start using mulch. Use any kind of manure and no weed will take over.

And you may not be sure how the man uses goat manure on his farm whereby weed will not give him problems.

Ok. Is there anyone who can advise us how to use goat, cow, sheep manure effectively on open field? @CodeOfConduct, any idea?

Referring to on open field cultivation since he was talking about rice cultivation which am also aware of and you can't use mulch on such and applying such kind of manure apart from poultry is an automatic failure to such cultivation, and even on normal large scale open field cultivation where you might spend a lot if considering mulching all your vegetable beds might be very expensive and even in green house, you can't plant indeterminate tomatoes and be thinking of mulching because you will still have to trelish by bringing the plant down so multiple roots can help sustain the continuous growth of the plant as the stems are touching the bed during the trelising. It can be possible if going into pepper production. That's why I said earlier every crops has it's own specific management practices.
quote author=fluentinfor post=62932090]Thanks for the recommendation. I will check the Minna option as i have tried the others (ibadan and abeokuta) you mentioned but I was not satisfied. One thing is they do, another is that the samples arent contaminated. Anyway, thank you. Actually, i felt you did one by yourself. But i will still check the place. Thanks!

About not using goat, sheep and cow dung. You are absolutely right about the weed issue. However, you did not take into consideration some other available options. I expect you to be using mulch in your nethouses at this stage and with your level. I did not want to mention it earlier but since you brought the issue up, I think I suggest you start using mulch. Use any kind of manure and no weed will take over.

And you may not be sure how the man uses goat manure on his farm whereby weed will not give him problems.

Ok. Is there anyone who can advise us how to use goat, cow, sheep manure effectively on open field? @CodeOfConduct, any idea? [/quote]

Even if you use any kind in grow bags, you will be surprised how the weed will be sprouting out from on top of the bags immediately you start irrigating when your new transplant hasn't fully established.you will end up weeding too early and if you now have a stupid farm hand, you might start lossing your young seedlings in d process of weeding by disturbing the soil around the root zones and even mistakes of uprooting seedlings and indirectly lossing money.

oladiran2:
Referring to on open field cultivation since he was talking about rice cultivation which am also aware of and you can't use mulch on such and applying such kind of manure apart from poultry is an automatic failure to such cultivation, and even on normal large scale open field cultivation where you might spend a lot if considering mulching all your vegetable beds might be very expensive and even in green house, you can't plant indeterminate tomatoes and be thinking of mulching because you will still have to trelish by bringing the plant down so multiple roots can help sustain the continuous growth of the plant as the stems are touching the bed during the trelising. It can be possible if going into pepper production. That's why I said earlier every crops has it's own specific management practices.
quote author=fluentinfor post=62932090]Thanks for the recommendation. I will check the Minna option as i have tried the others (ibadan and abeokuta) you mentioned but I was not satisfied. One thing is they do, another is that the samples arent contaminated. Anyway, thank you. Actually, i felt you did one by yourself. But i will still check the place. Thanks!

About not using goat, sheep and cow dung. You are absolutely right about the weed issue. However, you did not take into consideration some other available options. I expect you to be using mulch in your nethouses at this stage and with your level. I did not want to mention it earlier but since you brought the issue up, I think I suggest you start using mulch. Use any kind of manure and no weed will take over.

And you may not be sure how the man uses goat manure on his farm whereby weed will not give him problems.

Ok. Is there anyone who can advise us how to use goat, cow, sheep manure effectively on open field? @CodeOfConduct, any idea?

oladiran2:
Even if you use any kind in grow bags, you will be surprised how the weed will be sprouting out from on top of the bags immediately you start irrigating when your new transplant hasn't fully established.you will end up weeding too early and if you now have a stupid farm hand, you might start lossing your young seedlings in d process of weeding by disturbing the soil around the root zones and even mistakes of uprooting seedlings and indirectly lossing money.

Your comments here make me doubt your ability to use grow bags and mulch. I do not think the pictures of mulch and grow bags you put here are yours if you make this post.

But I am a bit confused because I saw one special picture on page one of this thread which confused me you know the details of grow bags and mulch. But with this comment, bro...I am totally confused.

FACT: I have not seen any farmer who usees mulch or grow bag and knows the tricks about them weed their farm. Except walk way weeding. If you have to weed with grow bags, it means you do not know how to use it. I am not attacking you but telling you the FACT.

oladiran2:
Referring to on open field cultivation since he was talking about rice cultivation which am also aware of and you can't use mulch on such and applying such kind of manure apart from poultry is an automatic failure to such cultivation, and even on normal large scale open field cultivation where you might spend a lot if considering mulching all your vegetable beds might be very expensive and even in green house, you can't plant indeterminate tomatoes and be thinking of mulching because you will still have to trelish by bringing the plant down so multiple roots can help sustain the continuous growth of the plant as the stems are touching the bed during the trelising. It can be possible if going into pepper production. That's why I said earlier every crops has it's own specific management practices.

1. I agree that using mulch on rice farm is not advisable. But the fact again is using manure for rice farming is not practised on large scale too. Most use fertilizer and green compost, and not manure for commercial farming. The same way mulch is not advisable, is the same way manure is not so advisable. Green compost is recommended. So, I guess the topic should be for crops on open field where manure is recommended on large scale. But i will not totally cancel using manure in small or medium scale rice farm. Perhaps, the man has done it. So, why don't we wait for comments and other opinions. I believe we will all learn more. So, I am still going to put out the question that how best can goat, sheep, cow manure be used on open field. Anyone with any suggestion?

2. I agree that tomatoes having multiple roots from stems can help the plant. Sure, but is it compulsory to have multiple roots? Are you saying because mulch will not allow multiple root that is a disadvantage? If it is, have you ever thought of hydroponic or aquaponics indeterminate tomatoes? Do they have multiple roots from stems? Have you ever seen one with multiple roots? By the way, have you ever seen the root of a tomato plant which is with mulch and well fed compared with the roots of all your stem developed roots? You do not want to mess around with a well fed plant which consumed almost all the nutrients it is given without one single competition with weeds, or fight to consume when weeds are around. Your own multiple roots, do they have higher yields than hydroponics and aquaponics? Or maybe I do not get you. You are at a real disadvantage by allowing one single weed to grow cos it drains nutrient in your soil. So, this theory of yours to me is not just accepted. Or those growbags, do they have multiple roots. Like I said, I do not think you have really used mulch and perhaps you do not understand the concept behind mulch. If you do, trust me, you will never write what you have to written because this does not make sense at all.

To have one super, healthy, robust root with high yield, or having multiple roots shooting out from stems of a single plant, which are not all too robust, which is better?

I advice you stop, and allow the guy who talked about goat manure come to explain how to use it. This is my suggestion. You may learn. So, i beg, do not send him away with unnecessary criticism.

I have learned so much from you bro. I beg, allow me learn from the guy or anyone else too who can use goat, cow, sheep manure excellently without having issues with terrible weed.

God bless.

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I was referring to inside the grow bags, Sorry to say sir but are you really a field farmer or internet farmer,you saying if grow bags are able to have multiple roots says it all.during trelising,the stem of one plant in one bag will definitely lays on the subsequent and it will continue like that.You are mixing my points up.Won't you mix manure in your sterilized soils you would bag?? Why don't you try to use cow/goat or any grass eating animal apart from poultry dung as manure during your sterilizing ratio mixing and come back and tell me your result if you will have to just weed your furrows or walk ways after the bed has been mulched which you won't have to weed been mulched. Mix those manures with your bagged soil and come back to tell me your result sir and secondly mix those mentioned manures and mulch your bed for open field cultivation and then make your holes where you will have your individual plants and come back and tell me if you won't have to worry about constant weeding inside those made holes meant for your plants sir.since some of your comments were insultive, best is for me to not reply your inquiries and what I thought you needed to know anymore. My own kind of consultant and agronomist is not one who keeps knowledge and not share. I just hope you are a field farmer and not just online farmer that would try the manures out, that's when you can realize the importance of advice.

fluentinfor:



Your comments here make me doubt your ability to use grow bags and mulch. I do not think the pictures of mulch and grow bags you put here are yours if you make this post.

But I am a bit confused because I saw one special picture on page one of this thread which confused me you know the details of grow bags and mulch. But with this comment, bro...I am totally confused.

FACT: I have not seen any farmer who usees mulch or grow bag and knows the tricks about them weed their farm. Except walk way weeding. If you have to weed with grow bags, it means you do not know how to use it. I am not attacking you but telling you the FACT.

oladiran2:
I was referring to inside the grow bags, Sorry to say sir but are you really a field farmer or internet farmer,you saying if grow bags are able to have multiple roots says it all.during trelising,the stem of one plant in one bag will definitely lays on the subsequent and it will continue like that.You are mixing my points up.Won't you mix manure in your sterilized soils you would bag?? Why don't you try to use cow/goat or any grass eating animal apart from poultry dung as manure during your sterilizing ratio mixing and come back and tell me your result if you will have to just weed your furrows or walk ways after the bed has been mulched which you won't have to weed been mulched. Mix those manures with your bagged soil and come back to tell me your result sir and secondly mix those mentioned manures and mulch your bed for open field cultivation and then make your holes where you will have your individual plants and come back and tell me if you won't have to worry about constant weeding inside those made holes meant for your plants sir.since some of your comments were insultive, best is for me to not reply your inquiries and what I thought you needed to know anymore. My own kind of consultant and agronomist is not one who keeps knowledge and not share. I just hope you are a field farmer and not just online farmer that would try the manures out, that's when you can realize the importance of advice.

I understand perfectly that you call yourself a professional agronomist, a consultant, and you are a field farmer who does not use internet for research but uses what has been passed down from his predecessors on the field. It is fine. And I am not criticising you.

My suggestion to you are:

1. You can still learn from people here. It does not take from you to listen to others opinion.

2. You should update yourself with recent techniques. The best way to do it is online. If that makes you an internet farmer, you still do not lose.

Based on advice 2 above, go and research online how to kill weed seed in manure and in soil. Also, make a deep research why well composted manure of any animal dung like cow, sheep, goat does not bring out weed later. By so doing, you will keep weed completely out of your grow bags.

Sir, it will add value to you if you can be an internet farmer like some of us for just one day. Thenafter, find a way to stop having your grow bag bring out weed. I do not think you can get such technique from the farm you are working right now because apparrently, you do not know.

I do not call myself the almighty agronomist who know all. I do not even call myself one. I am just my humble self. And if you have any advice to still give as an agronomist and consultant, I am reading to still learn because I do not think I cannot still learn from you. But I will stop making contribution to your thread since you feel it is only you who can give advice.

Stay blessed and keep up your good work in your own way.

Shalom!

I apologise for my late response,

but I must confess I was just smiling when I was reading every ones coment;
you see I intentionally leftout some details,
someone said if you apply goat/cow/sheep dung in your rice farm you'll end up loosing every thing.
Sorry sir this is not to spite you in anyform,
but I found your input quite hilarious.

Alright back to the topic


albeit a little history before then;

I've been a follower of Ja..thro a long while back during her early days in nairaland,
and also Jas..per solo..xam pa..vor and many others on the agro section.

So trust me i know how to use rabit urine as a fertilizer my profession is an added advantage to me because I know how to stop the smell....

i've also buit both net and polyethylene green houses up north,
and I can confidently bost that the ethylene green house is better than the net house when you're farming up north.


alright in the north we use glytex companies glyphosphate
an over dose of it will make grace run from your maize/rice farm atleast for 2months.

Note I said rice/maize or grains majorly not vegetables

in your vegetables you're quite right when you said the use of chicken dung is far better yes sir it is but to the novice it might not ne depending on how he applies it tho.

I know there are alot of contentions in the science world on the use of glyphosphate,
but a tentative conclusion has not been reached since the 1950's when Mosato a chemist founded it.

But in my profession as a scientist, I do alot of what I call reverse engineering lolz.

what I mean by that is I can take a final product run an NMR e.t.c to know the active,
ingredients/functional group most often for the fun of it, on few ocasions to improve on the product.

I must confess I was quite impressed with the GNLD supergrow this was my last project tho.

I'm sorry for digressing at Op forgive me, I'm out.

I love the way you sorted the tomatoes according to their levels of ripeness.

You don't sound like someone ready to learn, and who tell you I don't make research or open to more knowledge?? Is it by you writing insultive comments that's shows you are trying to share knowledge? If you don't understand something, you can ask for more clarification than the way you used your words. I wasn't concerned anymore after going through your profile and posts on your manner of approach in those posts. what you have read is what you believe you know. You seem to know little about tomatoes production and it's fragility. Go ahead and use those compost, manure as have suggested and give everyone including me the result of your experiment after your 5WAT rather than just typing them.

fluentinfor:


I understand perfectly that you call yourself a professional agronomist, a consultant, and you are a field farmer who does not use internet for research but uses what has been passed down from his predecessors on the field. It is fine. And I am not criticising you.

My suggestion to you are:

1. You can still learn from people here. It does not take from you to listen to others opinion.

2. You should update yourself with recent techniques. The best way to do it is online. If that makes you an internet farmer, you still do not lose.

Based on advice 2 above, go and research online how to kill weed seed in manure and in soil. Also, make a deep research why well composted manure of any animal dung like cow, sheep, goat does not bring out weed later. By so doing, you will keep weed completely out of your grow bags.

Sir, it will add value to you if you can be an internet farmer like some of us for just one day. Thenafter, find a way to stop having your grow bag bring out weed. I do not think you can get such technique from the farm you are working right now because apparrently, you do not know.

I do not call myself the almighty agronomist who know all. I do not even call myself one. I am just my humble self. And if you have any advice to still give as an agronomist and consultant, I am reading to still learn because I do not think I cannot still learn from you. But I will stop making contribution to your thread since you feel it is only you who can give advice.

Stay blessed and keep up your good work in your own way.

Shalom!

Thanks for some clarification as I believe knowledge is an every day assignment as I want to keep learning and adding knowledge to knowledge. I agree on maize with glyphoshate been sprayed with extreme caution but when you said you can use glyphoshate on rice farm, I think you need to specify the variety, is it on the lowland or upland rice?

Codeofconduct:
I apologise for my late response,

but I must confess I was just smiling when I was reading every ones coment;
you see I intentionally leftout some details,
someone said if you apply goat/cow/sheep dung in your rice farm you'll end up loosing every thing.
Sorry sir this is not to spite you in anyform,
but I found your input quite hilarious.

Alright back to the topic


albeit a little history before then;

I've been a follower of Ja..thro a long while back during her early days in nairaland,
and also Jas..per solo..xam pa..vor and many others on the agro section.

So trust me i know how to use rabit urine as a fertilizer my profession is an added advantage to me because I know how to stop the smell....

i've also buit both net and polyethylene green houses up north,
and I can confidently bost that the ethylene green house is better than the net house when you're farming up north.


alright in the north we use glytex companies glyphosphate
an over dose of it will make grace run from your maize/rice farm atleast for 2months.

Note I said rice/maize or grains majorly not vegetables

in your vegetables you're quite right when you said the use of chicken dung is far better yes sir it is but to the novice it might not ne depending on how he applies it tho.

I know there are alot of contentions in the science world on the use of glyphosphate,
but a tentative conclusion has not been reached since the 1950's when Mosato a chemist founded it.

But in my profession as a scientist, I do alot of what I call reverse engineering lolz.

what I mean by that is I can take a final product run an NMR e.t.c to know the active,
ingredients/functional group most often for the fun of it, on few ocasions to improve on the product.

I must confess I was quite impressed with the GNLD supergrow this was my last project tho.

I'm sorry for digressing at Op forgive me, I'm out.

oladiran2:
Thanks for some clarification as I believe knowledge is an every day assignment as I want to keep learning and adding knowledge to knowledge. I agree on maize with glyphoshate been sprayed with extreme caution but when you said you can use glyphoshate on rice farm, I think you need to specify the variety, is it on the lowland or upland rice?

no sir you still didn't get me, you only spray it before farming not after farming.

My choice of glytex is its effectiveness.

Most farmers spray it a month before planting,
I still don't know why.
I wanted planting two weeks after spraying,
but was advice by an old man to be patient.
I will experiment with a small portion of land tho.
Low land rice sir....
In yauri in kebbi for example the locals have two major sprays,
i'll be farming there from janaury next year.

I'LL open a thread for it,
and give my all on it... Is that okay

modify

there is a measuring cylinder in your sprayer container,
or in the absence of it just use an empty peak milk container.

instead of what is writen on the bottle,
fill two containers of the peakmilk can or measuring rubber with glytex,
and pour in your bag pack per spray.

Thanks sir.

Codeofconduct:

no sir you still didn't get me, you only spray it before farming not after farming.

My choice of glytex is its effectiveness.

Most farmers spray it a month before planting,
I still don't know why.
I wanted planting two weeks after spraying,
but was advice by an old man to be patient.
I will experiment with a small portion of land tho.
Low land rice sir....
In yauri in kebbi for example the locals have two major sprays,
i'll be farming there from janaury next year.

I'LL open a thread for it,
and give my all on it... Is that okay

modify

there is a measuring cylinder in your sprayer container,
or in the absence of it just use an empty peak milk container.

instead of what is writen on the bottle,
fill two containers of the peakmilk can or measuring rubber with glytex,
and pour in your bag pack per spray.