laithanman:


Thanks boss

The power loss thing started after I steam washed then engine.
It started with engine misfiring which my mechanic advised I change the spark plugs and did some setting on it. It then stabilizes but looses power climbing hill. It difficult climbing hill that it doesn't kickdown to speed up but stays in that particular gear and drags up d hill

Throttle position sensor malfunction is another possibility. Luvinghubby already mentioned that. A scan SHOULD give this away, but if not.. for all it's worth, remove the harness and inspect mating surfaces for moisture. If moist, allow dry before reconnecting. Use the opportunity to inspect the harness wires too.

The last thing that could be needed with a TPS malfunction is to replace it. However, you must be certain what you really have is a faulty TPS.

By the way, hope you can see how the dangers of 'steam washing' your car engine far outweigh the benefits of doing a careful, meticulous cleaning by hand periodically. In actual fact, there is no steam anywhere. All you have is usually a jet of water forced through a narrow nozzle tip to create turbulence and a HIGH PRESSURE in the flow.
It is the sheer force of this water under high pressure that dislodges most of the dirt. However, many times we end up getting the water in the wrong places as a 'collateral damage', e.g. alternator, spark plug holes, ignition coils, ECU, one sensor or the other.
You can achieve the same or even better results by using a degreaser/ organic solvent like petrol or carb cleaner to clean oil-smeared part of the engine before carefully hand-washing the engine with mild soap and water, having covered the vital areas with a water-proof material. This will usually save you the kind of issues that result from 'steam washing' engine bays.

The only part you probably need a steam washer nozzle to clean is your a/c condenser, and this must be done right to avoid 'wrecking' the condenser too.

Cheers!

FKBZ:


hello please what do u mean that the tank dried up

it was to be "drained out" actually

as in,if u av an external leak from the tank u will see it on the floor

ur guage is acting up.....inside the tank

lilkech:
I went to buy fuel yesterday and For the first time paid 10k for a full tank from empty just to see if the car’s fuel tank could handle it

After putting in 9k worth of fuel the tank began leaking profusely from beneath the car, as if there was a mighty hole down there somewhere and the excess fuel was draining out to the floor.

Is that how it’s supposed to be or do I have to go see a panel beater to check my tank for leakages? In some other cars I notice that when you overfill it pours out from the fuel inlet opening itself down the side of the body and not from somewhere else.

Car is a 2004 accord

It's not normal. Any work done at the fuel pump area recently? Seems someone didn't install your fuel pump properly.

diportivo:


it was to be "drained out" actually

as in,if u av an external leak from the tank u will see it on the floor

ur guage is acting up.....inside the tank

Some leaks might not be visible enough. Some might be at top most portion of fuel tank.

oluwaseunla:


It's not normal. Any work done at the fuel pump area recently? Seems someone didn't install your fuel pump properly.

Okay I remember changing the pump in January.

So you deduce it wasn’t replaced properly hence the excess fuel pushing up the fuel pump housing and spilling out from beneath the car?

lilkech:


Okay I remember changing the pump in January.

So you deduce it wasn’t replaced properly hence the excess fuel pushing up the fuel pump housing and spilling out from beneath the car?

Yes sir, that's what I think.

oluwaseunla:


Yes sir, that's what I think.

Okay thanks. I will check it myself as it’s pretty DIY to open up and close the fuel pump housing. After that I will fill up with fuel and check for any leakage and revert.

lilkech:


Okay thanks. I will check it myself as it’s pretty DIY to open up and close the fuel pump housing. After that I will fill up with fuel and check for any leakage and revert.

Install properly, especially the rubber seals.

lilkech:


Okay I remember changing the pump in January.

So you deduce it wasn’t replaced properly hence the excess fuel pushing up the fuel pump housing and spilling out from beneath the car?

First thing first I don't think anything is wrong with our car and never fill up your tank till it pours out.. Google "EVAP system"

As for the bolded, you should see/smell fuel in the boot, around the fuel pump assembly cover.. I once did what you did(fill till the brim of the filler neck) and also had a leak and fuel smell in the car.

Since then I normally stop immediately the fuel Dispenser clicks and stops pumping but during fuel scarcity i might add 1000 naira worth of fuel after the click and have never had any leakage again.

NB if your fuel pump was not placed properly anytime you buy fuel, you should smell the fuel fume in the boot or in the car self

thebigkendo:


First thing first I don't think anything is wrong with our car and never fill up your tank till it pours out.. Google "EVAP system"

As for the bolded, you should see/smell fuel in the boot, around the fuel pump assembly cover.. I once did what you did(fill till the brim of the filler neck) and also had a leak and fuel smell in the car.

Since then I normally stop immediately the fuel Dispenser clicks and stops pumping but during fuel scarcity i might add 1000 naira worth of fuel after the click and have never had any leakage again.

NB if your fuel pump was not placed properly anytime you buy fuel, you should smell the fuel fume in the boot or in the car self

all these are points to take note of, there might be nothing wrong with it after all since it’s happened to you as well. I’m just not happy Honda will make an outlet for the fuel from the tank in such a manner and because if so much fuel can get out that quickly then it’s possible air can get in as well.

Maybe this has happened to some others as well, let me wait for a third opinion. Thanks

lilkech:


all these are points to take note of, there might be nothing wrong with it after all since it’s happened to you as well. I’m just not happy Honda will make an outlet for the fuel from the tank in such a manner and because if so much fuel can get out that quickly then it’s possible air can get in as well.

Maybe this has happened to some others as well, let me wait for a third opinion. Thanks

There are two things that could be wrong. A wrong installation of fuel pump, or a fuel tank leak. Is this the first time you are buying a full tank since January?

lilkech:


all these are points to take note of, there might be nothing wrong with it after all since it’s happened to you as well. I’m just not happy Honda will make an outlet for the fuel from the tank in such a manner and because if so much fuel can get out that quickly then it’s possible air can get in as well.

Maybe this has happened to some others as well, let me wait for a third opinion. Thanks

I am sure you have not googled "EVAP system"
-You are not suppose to fill up your car till the brim be it honda, toyota or volks
-The fuel system is designed to operate between specific pressure/vacuum

thebigkendo:


I am sure you have not googled "EVAP system"
-You are not suppose to fill up your car till the brim be it honda, toyota or volks
-The fuel system is designed to operate between specific pressure/vacuum

Lilkech, take note.

oluwaseunla:


There are two things that could be wrong. A wrong installation of fuel pump, or a fuel tank leak. Is this the first time you are buying a full tank since January?

I think he overfilled .. 9000 at N145/l is 62l.. Tank Capacity on the 7th gen accord is approximately 65l.. Except he is telling me he drained his tank before buying the N9000 fuel..
-I ruled out fuel pump seals since he did not state he has being smelling fuel fume after very refill
and if fuel tank has such a big leak, ECU should throw an EVAP code, since it won't hold vacuum

oluwaseunla:


There are two things that could be wrong. A wrong installation of fuel pump, or a fuel tank leak. Is this the first time you are buying a full tank since January?

I usually buy the amount of fuel that brings my guage to rest on FULL, I only just tried getting a lot more in yesterday, like 1,500 extra fuel after and it started leaking.

The rate is leaked was much, someone from behind had to call both i and the fuel attendant ‘s attention to the spill before we even knew what was happening

The whole floor was covered with fuel. I was afraid to even start the car after filling up because of it.

lilkech:


I usually buy the amount of fuel that brings my guage to rest on FULL, I only just tried getting a lot more in yesterday, like 1,500 extra fuel after and it started leaking.

The rate is leaked was much, someone from behind had to call both i and the fuel attendant ‘s attention to the spill before we even knew what was happening

The whole floor was covered with fuel. I was afraid to even start the car after filling up because of it.

There may be a damaged seal somewhere too. But in a case of overfill, fuel should be leaking only from the fuel filler area, and not from underneath the fuel tank area.

Just check it out to be sure.

thebigkendo:


I think he overfilled .. 9000 at N145/l is 62l.. Tank Capacity on the 7th gen accord is approximately 65l.. Except he is telling me he drained his tank before buying the N9000 fuel..
-I ruled out fuel pump seals since he did not state he has being smelling fuel fume after very refill
and if fuel tank has such a big leak, ECU should throw an EVAP code, since it won't hold vacuum

Thanks baba I just read up on how that Evap system works. I’m learning everyday.

Bros, if that amount of fuel... like 5 liters ran off through that vent in the EVAP canister it means that all those happy charcoal inside have really suffered yesterday chei! God, make e never spoil abeg

oluwaseunla:


There may be a damaged seal somewhere too. But in a case of overfill, fuel should be leaking only from the fuel filler area, and not from underneath the fuel tank area.

Just check it out to be sure.

That’s good advice. I don’t smell fuel as I drive and there’s no check engine light on yet but I will check these seals you speak of.

The mistake I made was not to open up the booth and confirm if it was leak from in there as thebigkendo said his own did.

lilkech:


That’s good advice. I don’t smell fuel as I drive and there’s no check engine light on yet but I will check these seals you speak of.

The mistake I made was not to open up the booth and confirm if it was leak from in there as the.bigkendo said his own did.

Hahaha Mine did not leak from "there" oh.. But in my case i checked my boot and confirmed no leakage from pump assembly too.. So i just assumed if was due to overfilling...

Concerning the seals.. If the leak is not from the fuel pump seals.. Please just leave the other seals as dem dey oh and stop overfilling your tank.. So your case will Not be "Trouble dey sleep yanga come wake am"

Do not overfill your tank when you go to the gas station. When filling make sure to put off car and also make sure immediately check valve clicks ask fuel attendant to stop.

lilkech:


Thanks baba I just read up on how that Evap system works. I’m learning everyday.

Bros, if that amount of fuel... like 5 liters ran off through that vent in the EVAP canister it means that all those happy charcoal inside have really suffered yesterday chei! God, make e never spoil abeg

The evap system is about gas from fuel, its storage and movement down to the engine. Remember that the Canister box is the storage house of hydrocarbon and gas. Also if you over fill up your tank you have excess of gas forcing its way through down to the Canister box there by having either a small leak or large leak on evap System. Leaks can also be found along vacuum lines, from fuel tank as well as fuel tank cover.Not to forget you have a vapour pressure sensor which measures pSI of gas. Have created a thread for tank ventilation system before now

https://www.nairaland.com/4084530/lets-discuss-tank-ventilation-system

lilkech:


I usually buy the amount of fuel that brings my guage to rest on FULL, I only just tried getting a lot more in yesterday, like 1,500 extra fuel after and it started leaking.

The rate is leaked was much, someone from behind had to call both i and the fuel attendant ‘s attention to the spill before we even knew what was happening

The whole floor was covered with fuel. I was afraid to even start the car after filling up because of it.

Did you (your mechanic) recently open your fuel pump cover?

kingreign:


Did you (your mechanic) recently open your fuel pump cover?

The last time it was opened was sometime in late January when I changed the fuel pump.

This one that you’re interested in the pump means If there are rubber seals or o rings around the top of the fuel pump housing then I should check to see if they are still good right?

lilkech:


The last time it was opened was sometime in late January when I changed the fuel pump.

This one that you’re interested in the pump means If there are rubber seals or o rings around the top of the fuel pump housing then I should check to see if they are still good right?

yes pls check the pump ASSY and the gasket if it's seated properly and if not replace.

nas00:


Throttle position sensor malfunction is another possibility. Luvinghubby already mentioned that. A scan SHOULD give this away, but if not.. for all it's worth, remove the harness and inspect mating surfaces for moisture. If moist, allow dry before reconnecting. Use the opportunity to inspect the harness wires too.

The last thing that could be needed with a TPS malfunction is to replace it. However, you must be certain what you really have is a faulty TPS.

By the way, hope you can see how the dangers of 'steam washing' your car engine far outweigh the benefits of doing a careful, meticulous cleaning by hand periodically. In actual fact, there is no steam anywhere. All you have is usually a jet of water forced through a narrow nozzle tip to create turbulence and a HIGH PRESSURE in the flow.
It is the sheer force of this water under high pressure that dislodges most of the dirt. However, many times we end up getting the water in the wrong places as a 'collateral damage', e.g. alternator, spark plug holes, ignition coils, ECU, one sensor or the other.
You can achieve the same or even better results by using a degreaser/ organic solvent like petrol or carb cleaner to clean oil-smeared part of the engine before carefully hand-washing the engine with mild soap and water, having covered the vital areas with a water-proof material. This will usually save you the kind of issues that result from 'steam washing' engine bays.

The only part you probably need a steam washer nozzle to clean is your a/c condenser, and this must be done right to avoid 'wrecking' the condenser too.

Cheers!

Thanks Nas00

I bought the mini OBD II car Scanner and did a scan on the car, the trouble codes displayed are as follows:

P2185 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High
Vehicle Area: Powertrain (P)
Area of Vehicle System: Fuel and Air Metering and Auxiliary Emission Controls
Controlled by: ISO/SAE Controlled Code (Core DTC)
Controll Unit: $09 - manufacturer-specific
P0122 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Low
Vehicle Area: Powertrain (P)
Area of Vehicle System: Fuel and Air Metering
Controlled by: ISO/SAE Controlled Code (Core DTC)
Controll Unit: $09 - manufacturer-specific
P0341 - Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance
Vehicle Area: Powertrain (P)
Area of Vehicle System: Ignition System or Misfire
Controlled by: ISO/SAE Controlled Code (Core DTC)
Controll Unit: $09 - manufacturer-specific
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
Vehicle Area: Powertrain (P)
Area of Vehicle System: Fuel and Air Metering
Controlled by: ISO/SAE Controlled Code (Core DTC)
Controll Unit: $09 - manufacturer-specific
P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
Vehicle Area: Powertrain (P)
Area of Vehicle System: Fuel and Air Metering
Controlled by: ISO/SAE Controlled Code (Core DTC)
Controll Unit: $09 - manufacturer-specific

I'm nt a guru as such but i did a youtube search on them but seems not to get a video that breaks them down for a layman lik me.

please kindly enlighten me on way forward. i Just want to be able to direct my mechanic on what to do.
thank you

kingreign:


Did you (your mechanic) recently open your fuel pump cover?

Hmmm...So the artisan could have tampered with something.
Please check our signature in blue below and contact us by visiting our Ikeja office. Click on the WhatsApp link to directly chat us or call the phone line.

laithanman:

Thanks Nas00

I bought the mini OBD II car Scanner and did a scan on the car, the trouble codes displayed are as follows:

P2185 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit High
Vehicle Area: Powertrain (P)
Area of Vehicle System: Fuel and Air Metering and Auxiliary Emission Controls
Controlled by: ISO/SAE Controlled Code (Core DTC)
Controll Unit: $09 - manufacturer-specific
P0122 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Low
Vehicle Area: Powertrain (P)
Area of Vehicle System: Fuel and Air Metering
Controlled by: ISO/SAE Controlled Code (Core DTC)
Controll Unit: $09 - manufacturer-specific
P0341 - Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance
Vehicle Area: Powertrain (P)
Area of Vehicle System: Ignition System or Misfire
Controlled by: ISO/SAE Controlled Code (Core DTC)
Controll Unit: $09 - manufacturer-specific
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
Vehicle Area: Powertrain (P)
Area of Vehicle System: Fuel and Air Metering
Controlled by: ISO/SAE Controlled Code (Core DTC)
Controll Unit: $09 - manufacturer-specific
P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
Vehicle Area: Powertrain (P)
Area of Vehicle System: Fuel and Air Metering
Controlled by: ISO/SAE Controlled Code (Core DTC)
Controll Unit: $09 - manufacturer-specific

I'm nt a guru as such but i did a youtube search on them but seems not to get a video that breaks them down for a layman lik me.

please kindly enlighten me on way forward. i Just want to be able to direct my mechanic on what to do.
thank you

Before my brothers in the Lord makes their appearance with big grammars.

Thermostat sensor

Oxygen sensor 1 & 2

Camshaft sensor

Throttle position sensor

3 & 4 should worry you.

Structuralman:


Same thing happened to my car whenever it rains. Solution: Take it to your mechanic to pour water on the car to identify the leaking point. Then the entire glass associated with the leak will have to be reinstalled.

Where exactly was your leak coming from?
The back windscreen has been reinstalled, the sunroof drain has been unplugged yet the leak continues. The car has been taken to a car wash and thoroughly soaked yet we couldnt trace the point of leak. I'm at my wit end now.

nas00:


Throttle position sensor malfunction is another possibility. Luvinghubby already mentioned that. A scan SHOULD give this away, but if not.. for all it's worth, remove the harness and inspect mating surfaces for moisture. If moist, allow dry before reconnecting. Use the opportunity to inspect the harness wires too.

The last thing that could be needed with a TPS malfunction is to replace it. However, you must be certain what you really have is a faulty TPS.

By the way, hope you can see how the dangers of 'steam washing' your car engine far outweigh the benefits of doing a careful, meticulous cleaning by hand periodically. In actual fact, there is no steam anywhere. All you have is usually a jet of water forced through a narrow nozzle tip to create turbulence and a HIGH PRESSURE in the flow.
It is the sheer force of this water under high pressure that dislodges most of the dirt. However, many times we end up getting the water in the wrong places as a 'collateral damage', e.g. alternator, spark plug holes, ignition coils, ECU, one sensor or the other.
You can achieve the same or even better results by using a degreaser/ organic solvent like petrol or carb cleaner to clean oil-smeared part of the engine before carefully hand-washing the engine with mild soap and water, having covered the vital areas with a water-proof material. This will usually save you the kind of issues that result from 'steam washing' engine bays.

The only part you probably need a steam washer nozzle to clean is your a/c condenser, and this must be done right to avoid 'wrecking' the condenser too.

Cheers!

Lovely explanation.

Nothing can cause me to use high pressure water streams to clean up my engine bay.

I am happy you took time out to detail why, I hope the Nigerian motoring public takes note.

This practice has caused more grief than many care to acknowledge

luvinhubby:


Before my brothers in the Lord makes their appearance with big grammars.

Thermostat sensor

Oxygen sensor 1 & 2

Camshaft sensor

Throttle position sensor

3 & 4 should worry you.

Please let me know if i am wrong.

1. The TPS is the one on the throttle body.
2. the Camshaft sensor is the one on the left side of the engine on the cylinder head
3. The thermostat sensor is the one at the bottom of the Radiator (I checked this and the wire has been cut off)
4. The O2 sensor in on the exhaust pipe under the car ( the wire too has been disconnected).

Thank you for the support.

Hello house, im new here, and really enjoying the conversations.
Please im considering buying an 03/04/05 naija used honda pilot. But I need honest reviews.
Is it problematic?
Is it fuel efficient, compared to its Toyota or mdx counterparts?
Are the parts available?
Please I need honest reviews, and if anyone in the house, has one for sale, pls holla.

Cheers

blueblood1:
Hello house, im new here, and really enjoying the conversations.
Please im considering buying an 03/04/05 naija used honda pilot. But I need honest reviews.
Is it problematic?
Is it fuel efficient, compared to its Toyota mdx counterparts?
Are the parts available?
Please I need honest reviews, and if anyone in the house, has one for sale, pls holla.

Cheers

*Toyota or acura mdx counterparts*