AutoElectNG:


Curious question #1...Tell me a little about your brake light...is it permanently ON or does it only come on in response to braking input?

Share with me the data that you intended to share originally, my email is in my signature if it needs to be emailed, otherwise you may wish to post it here

AutoElectNG:


Curious question #2...Tell me a little about your speedometer needle...does it work? Does it behave normally or eratically?

HenriXI:


I'm sorry I've been off for some days now... I've actually been dealing with the money I've lost over the past 3 weeks trying to find solutions to my car issues...

I had the car checked by Mike @King.reign and he confirmed it's a transmission issue...

Yes!!! I got a new transmission. It was carefully installed (with two gallons of original Toyota WS oil @17k each - that set my account about 150k backwards)

And the result was undesirably the same... It shifts from 1-3 and stays there. Same P0500 code.

To respond to your questions, Yes the brake lights come up only when i step on the brakes.

HenriXI:


The speedometer needle works fine - That's obvious in the picture i posted earlier. And it doesn't behave erratic.

But there's something i noticed today.

I tried viewing the Vehicle Speed live data from the Engine/ECU part of my scan tool, but it registered 0 mph even when the vehicle was in motion... (Picture attached)

N/B: If i view the live data from the ABS/TRAC/VSC part of my scan tool, the vehicle speed registers correctly and exactly as it is on my vehicle speedometer.

With these findings its fair to say that the vehicle isn't getting signals from the transmission mounted VSS at all...

You have modules communication issues via the instrument cluster ,PCM is unable to retrieve VSS successfully from abs modules and this could be probably due to instrument cluster issue
To confirm this ,use a professional scan tool to scan the PCM module and confirm if you a have corresponding VSS values that is same as abs VSS.
Note that ABS is the source of VSS for other modules and the instrument cluster is the gateway modules for other the vss in that particular model of vehicle.

N/B: I'm using a new transmission and the VSS that came with it.

How do i proceed from here

Should i ask an auto electrician to strip the wire harness all the way to check for frayed wiring

AutoElectNG:
How do we move from here?

1. The speed sensor input (wiring between the Skid Control ECU and the Instrument Cluster aka combination meter) needs to be checked, see picture 1

2. The speed sensor output (wiring between the Main Body ECU, the sliding roof ECU, the ECM, and the Instrument Cluster aka combination meter Junction Box, the navigation receiver assembly, the radio receiver, the tire pressure warning ECUs as well as the Stereo Component amplifier) needs to be checked

To my mind, this is where your problem lies and not in a transmission replacement


3. What makes you certain that your vehicle is Canadian? Did you run a VIN check?

Even if you run a VIN check, it may be necessary to run the VIN check against manufacturer databases of vehicles of your make/model with known faults? So please send me your VIN via WhatsApp or Email so I can run a check as I earlier requested, I do not recommend posting VINs online.

I strongly believe that the transmission was not procured pro bono, neither was it installed pro bono. I stand to be corrected though.

How much are you willing to pay so I can give you clear and concise instructions so that you can get this off your back?

While you consider that, remember that to the best of my knowledge and belief, no other Nigerian automotive technician on nairaland has provided the iron-clad guarantee that I offer when you engage my service.

mayor2013:


@ the bolded. Do you need to discredit your fellow human just to be heard. I just tire for Nigerians

mayor2013:


@ the bolded. Do you need to discredit your fellow human just to be heard. I just tire for Nigerians

While you consider that, remember that to the best of my knowledge and belief, no other Nigerian automotive technician on nairaland has provided the iron-clad guarantee that I offer when you engage my service.

HenriXI:


I'm sorry I've been off for some days now... I've actually been dealing with the money I've lost over the past 3 weeks trying to find solutions to my car issues...

I had the car checked by Mike and he confirmed it's a transmission issue...

Yes!!! I got a new transmission. It was carefully installed (with two gallons of original Toyota WS oil @17k each - that set my account about 150k backwards)

And the result was undesirably the same...

It shifts from 1-3 and stays there. Same P0500 code.

To respond to your questions, Yes the brake lights come up only when i step on the brakes.

Kashif:


Wow!

You need a good electrician who can scope signals. Automatics won't work well without a clean VS signal. The signal is generated, but it either doesn't get to your PCM, or gets there too weak for the PCM to make any meaning out of it.

To all technicians here, don't think of replacing any gear without establishing what the computer is commanding first. If there are no flares, you are most likely down with electrical issue(s).

AutoElectNG:


Oscilloscope?

Am I on the right path to sort out the electricals first?

HenriXI:
Hi Guys,

Please i need help with my 2010 corolla S P0500 (Vehicle Speed sensor) issue.

Since i got the vehicle August last year, everything has been functioning well except for the ABS, VSC OFF (blinking) & skid control lights on the dashboard. My mechanic diagnosed the vehicle and told me the ABS Pump Assembly was bad and needed replacement... (the code was C1246 - Malfunction in master cylinder pressure sensor). All these didn't affect the vehicle performance except that it would skid when i push hard on the brakes.

Recently I've replaced the ABS Pump Assembly but i now have a P0500 code and my car only shifts between gear 1 and 3. I sometimes have very low RPM when I'm idling too.

Please i need some advice on what to do cuz I've tried the following...
1) I've put back my previous ABS Pump Assembly and it's still the same (now with the abs lights on and check light on too - P0500 & C1246 codes). N/B the new ABS Pump Assembly has the same numbers on them (44540-02110 89541-12450. 133800-4290 QK.)

2) I've replaced the gearbox speed sensor (shown in the picture attached). And it still didn't solve the problem.

3). I've had an auto electrician trace the wires from the gearbox sensor all the way to where it enters the brainbox and he has confirmed there's continuity.

4) All the wheel speed sensors are okay and they are reading correctly (As shown on Live data on a diagnosis machine - Picture attached).

5) I've replaced my vehicle ECU (as directed by my mechanic - he suggested they might have interchanged polarities when they tried jumpstarting the vehicle after i parked it for a long time) and it still didn't solve the problem.

Please i need your inputs cuz I've spent money trying lots of ideas and the latest of them all is that my mechanic asked me to get a new gearbox.

My RPM get's high up to 3600 @ 100km/hr and even up to 4500 @ 120km/hr... Very abnormal

Please if you've experienced this kinda problem, share how you got out of it.

N/B: My odometer wasn't engineered, there's actually 103k now - display ink issue i guess.

Thanks in advance.

HenriXI:
Hi Guys,

Please i need help with my 2010 corolla S P0500 (Vehicle Speed sensor) issue.

Since i got the vehicle August last year, everything has been functioning well except for the ABS, VSC OFF (blinking) & skid control lights on the dashboard. My mechanic diagnosed the vehicle and told me the ABS Pump Assembly was bad and needed replacement... (the code was C1246 - Malfunction in master cylinder pressure sensor). All these didn't affect the vehicle performance except that it would skid when i push hard on the brakes.

Recently I've replaced the ABS Pump Assembly but i now have a P0500 code and my car only shifts between gear 1 and 3. I sometimes have very low RPM when I'm idling too.

Please i need some advice on what to do cuz I've tried the following...
1) I've put back my previous ABS Pump Assembly and it's still the same (now with the abs lights on and check light on too - P0500 & C1246 codes). N/B the new ABS Pump Assembly has the same numbers on them (44540-02110 89541-12450. 133800-4290 QK.)

2) I've replaced the gearbox speed sensor (shown in the picture attached). And it still didn't solve the problem.

3). I've had an auto electrician trace the wires from the gearbox sensor all the way to where it enters the brainbox and he has confirmed there's continuity.

4) All the wheel speed sensors are okay and they are reading correctly (As shown on Live data on a diagnosis machine - Picture attached).

5) I've replaced my vehicle ECU (as directed by my mechanic - he suggested they might have interchanged polarities when they tried jumpstarting the vehicle after i parked it for a long time) and it still didn't solve the problem.

Please i need your inputs cuz I've spent money trying lots of ideas and the latest of them all is that my mechanic asked me to get a new gearbox.

My RPM get's high up to 3600 @ 100km/hr and even up to 4500 @ 120km/hr... Very abnormal

Please if you've experienced this kinda problem, share how you got out of it.

N/B: My odometer wasn't engineered, there's actually 103k now - display ink issue i guess.

Thanks in advance.

AutoElectNG:


OP, these are my final words on this thread, you asked for advice but have consistently ignored well meaning advice.

I will only reopen communication when I see (please see picture below).

Now for the benefit of anyone else who has a 2010 Corolla with P0500:

This is what you need to know.

First, take note that repairs will require access to factory information.

Second, the factory diagnostic information is different depending on the engine installed in your Corolla.

Third, it is not sufficient to search for hits in the open internet, the information therein is incomplete at best and irrelevant/outdated at worst.

Fourth, P0500 is a generic code and implementation varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, and consequently testing and fault isolation procedures can never be the same.

Fifth, due to copyright concerns and indeed respect for copyright, I can only provide highlights....

These are the highlights:

41 documents were responsive to the search.

4 of which are super relevant, the rest address the issue of looking at symptoms not individually but as part of a system, repairing cars today requires that the automotive technician deploy systems thinking and not symptoms thinking.

The information was last modified/updated on: 4-17-2018, that was just 3 months ago for a 2010 car! Those of us with PDFs gotten off the internet would most definitely miss the update!, the update is not even in PDF format but HTTP.

There are 3 other related codes.

The factory manual lists 4 areas to check to resolve this issue and the transmission is not one of them!



From Day 1, I have always made the point that if you bring your repair to me, I will do it exactly the same way as the manufacturer would or a dealer would, I would play by the book, I cannot imagine any other way to fix a car aright.

And that is why my brand specific threads are aptly titled Dealer-Level Diagnostics.

By the way, I am cheaper than the average dealer but costlier than the average shade tree mechanic, but I stand behind my work!

May I respectfully bow out of here.

cc: Uboma

Kashif:


Don't apply everything you read from manuals. That is the reason many Dealerships are not able to fix many problems. With time, you will realize that you apply what the manual says in a particular issue, and still not resolve it. Experience taught me!

Kashif:


Don't apply everything you read from manuals. That is the reason many Dealerships are not able to fix many problems. With time, you will realise that you apply what the manual says in a particular issue, and still not resolve it. Experience thought me!

HenriXI:
Thank you very much Guys for the inputs and assistance you've offered me through this time...

It was really a rough time for me cuz i did the paying (for the various attempts) while we all did the learning...

@AutoElectNG, please pardon me for not updating this post as often as i should have done. Please put yourself in my shoes. (I've replaced 2 front wheel speed sensors @30k, ABS Pump Assembly @65k, 2 transmission VSS @25k each, the transmission itself @100k + 2 4 litres of WS Gear oil @34k and the Instrument Cluster @30k). Bros, i needed time to recuperate...

Well, the issue was actually the Instrument cluster... After replacing the instrument cluster, everything worked fine - meaning my old transmission and everything else was working fine.

It's really hard troubleshooting these modern semi-complex electrical and computer controlled vehicles. If this is the case with a small 2010 Toyota Corolla, then what would be the case on more complex brands like Mercedes Benz, BMW, Audi and the likes...

It's a learning curve and I'm sure someone out there will see this post early enough and not have to go through what i went through.

Let's i forget, please link me up to buyers for my transmission. Help me get some money back.

You can reach me on 08033149441.

Once again, Thank you for everything. I appreciate.

My current Instrument cluster is attached in the picture here... Sorry i took the picture at night and YES!!! on the express... Lol.

HenriXI:
Thank you very much Guys for the inputs and assistance you've offered me through this time...

It was really a rough time for me cuz i did the paying (for the various attempts) while we all did the learning...

@AutoElectNG, please pardon me for not updating this post as often as i should have done. Please put yourself in my shoes. (I've replaced 2 front wheel speed sensors @30k, ABS Pump Assembly @65k, 2 transmission VSS @25k each, the transmission itself @100k + 2 4 litres of WS Gear oil @34k and the Instrument Cluster @30k). Bros, i needed time to recuperate...

Well, the issue was actually the Instrument cluster... After replacing the instrument cluster, everything worked fine - meaning my old transmission and everything else was working fine.

It's really hard troubleshooting these modern semi-complex electrical and computer controlled vehicles. If this is the case with a small 2010 Toyota Corolla, then what would be the case on more complex brands like Mercedes Benz, BMW, Audi and the likes...

It's a learning curve and I'm sure someone out there will see this post early enough and not have to go through what i went through.

Let's i forget, please link me up to buyers for my transmission. Help me get some money back.

You can reach me on 08033149441.

Once again, Thank you for everything. I appreciate.

My current Instrument cluster is attached in the picture here... Sorry i took the picture at night and YES!!! on the express... Lol.

AutoElectNG:


HenriXI... I know what it means to be in your shoes, why did I undertake formal training to become an automotive technician?

I have always loved electronics, I have always loved cars, and I was not exactly comfortable with the way the technicians were handling the issues I was having with my cars.

I often had to educate them, and then I noticed that my background in IT was what they lacked, and cars were becoming more and more computerized, so I dived in.

I contacted you immediately via PM after my first post, to share with you privately the information that I ended up sharing publicly.

Those of us in the habit of ignoring PMs, please respond to PMs, they may be well-intentioned.

I am so grateful that you have found time to vindicate me and my approach.

I was also taught to try least invasive techniques first, and not most invasive techniques first.

Spend the least you can to solve an issue first, and not the most you can to solve an issue first!

Had you reached out to me, I would have saved you unnecessary expense.

But I am happy that it has ended well for you, and never forget this, always consult factory documentation!

Let me conclude by stating once again, thank you for saying it yourself that it was indeed an instrument cluster (combination meter) issue and not a transmission issue!

Thank you again for vindicating my position that you should have kept the other transmission and not pawned it away for next to nothing.


What many technicians fail to acknowledge is this, there are decision trees, and following those decision trees helps to point one in the direction of the actually faulty item, and that it should not be a matter of guesswork deciding what is faulty, but it should rather be a scientific and rational decision determined by either mathematics, electronics, hydraulics and sometimes mechanics, these value are not sentimental, they will remain what they are irrespective of skin color, tribe, or tongue.

Cheers!

Let me also extend a hand of fellowship to my very able brothers, Mayor2013 and and Autologic who were right on the mark with their diagnosis, and most respectfully request LUDATRAVELS to see how the matter was finally resolved given his position on the matters therein.

AutoElectNG:

MODIFIED... SEE STRIKETHROUGH TEXT

Possibilities include:

Brake Light Switch?
Brake Light Circuit?
Wheel Speed Sensors?
Brake/Traction Actuators?
Brake Actuator Assembly?
Brake Light Switch Assembly?

Possibilities...you need scan data, maybe freeze frame data, detailed manufacturer technical troubleshooting guidelines, patience and some familiarity with electrical electronics and you should be good

As much as I would love to help...this is in-depth troubleshooting and goes beyond what can be done pro bono..[s].I suggest you take up the offer by Kingreig.n who will most likely not do it for free, but then he is close to you, if that gives you some comfort that you are dealing with someone that is within reach[/s]

Ricmayak1:
Again, as a solution seeker, learn to reach out to people that are willing to assist you at least for the courtesy. Not everybody does that to get a customer. I told you to contact me, at least a whatsapp chat would do. Some people are just happy providing solution to other's problems.