RARE GEM BUSINESS CONSULTANCY
Majorv dealer to top Nigerians companies.

Property type: down floor (2*2bedrom, 1 self-contain), up floor (1*3 bedroom, 1*2 bedroom)
Location: kotokoto area, uvwie delta state
Price: N30m (negotiablyĺ)

Contact me
Mackengift@gmail.com
+23481704987

Professionals in the house. Please I need your advice urgently. I have just plastered a duplex and I did a decking or slab for my water tank on top of the roof. I just realized during the heavy rain that the slab or decking where we have water tank on it is leaking. I see water finding their way from the water slab to the wall inside. Although my plumber has assured that he will fix everything but I am considering doing a scaffolding and put my tank on it. So I want to know if it is possible to fix the slab as claimed by plumber I should just go ahead and do the scaffolding. I was told that slab will always leak even if it is not now, it will leak later

good day house, is it advisable to use 10mm iron rods for lintel work of inner (partition) walls of 6" blocks in bungalow and how save is it on outer walls of 9" blocks?

my bricklayer suggests we use 3 parallel rods (triangle sharp) instead of usual/normal four (rectangular sharp) on lintel and that we can use 10mm for lintels without any cause for alarms. though he never want to compromise the standard of iron bars used for pillars which were 12mm and rectangular sharp.

thanks

elengine:
Professionals in the house. Please I need your advice urgently. I have just plastered a duplex and I did a decking or slab for my water tank on top of the roof. I just realized during the heavy rain that the slab or decking where we have water tank on it is leaking. I see water finding their way from the water slab to the wall inside. Although my plumber has assured that he will fix everything but I am considering doing a scaffolding and put my tank on it. So I want to know if it is possible to fix the slab as claimed by plumber I should just go ahead and do the scaffolding. I was told that slab will always leak even if it is not now, it will leak later

my suggestion is that you shld take water away from your block walls though someone has addressed something like this before but I strongly believe water is most stubborn substance it will definitely find way to unnecessary places. get a separate water stand, sr. I am a novice ooo

Takoro13:
good day house, is it advisable to use 10mm iron rods for lintel work of inner (partition) walls of 6" blocks in bungalow and how save is it on outer walls of 9" blocks?

my bricklayer suggests we use 3 parallel rods (triangle sharp) instead of usual/normal four (rectangular sharp) on lintel and that we can use 10mm for lintels without any cause for alarms. though he never want to compromise the standard of iron bars used for pillars which were 12mm and rectangular sharp.

thanks

Standard is Y12.
You remind me of one of my clients who asked me to do same.
This is my response to him and same to you.
I will used Y12(rectangular) on the external.
Y10 for internal(triangular) but at a lesser stirrups spacing.
And will use Y10 every where in the building but stirrups spacing with be 150mm c/c if triangular.

If you intend putting concrete fascia, please kindly use Y12(rectangular) on the outside.

bixton:


Standard is Y12.
You remind me of one of my clients who asked me to do same.
This is my response to him and same to you.
I will used Y12(rectangular) on the external.
Y10 for internal(triangular) but at a lesser stirrups spacing.
And will use Y10 every where in the building but stirrups spacing with be 150mm c/c if triangular.

If you intend putting concrete fascia, please kindly use Y12(rectangular) on the outside.

thanks sr,
dealing with the second response sr "
And will use Y10 every where in the building but stirrups spacing with be 150mm c/c if triangular". so I can use triangular shape for the outer walls (9" blocks) with Y10 at 150mm c/c? if this is advisable, I going for this and I must add that no parapet sr.

more advise is welcome

thanks

Takoro13:

thanks sr,
dealing with the second response sr "
And will use Y10 every where in the building but stirrups spacing with be 150mm c/c if triangular". so I can use triangular sharp of the outer walls (9" blocks) with Y10 at 150mm c/c? if this is advisable, I going for this and I must add that no parapet sr.

more advise is welcome

thanks

When you say "sharp" are you referring to the "smooth" type..........
I have no business using smooth type in my jobs ooooo. Don't think I've seen smooth Y10 in my environment, except Y8 and the square type.

bixton:


When you say "sharp" are you referring to the "smooth" type..........
I have no business using smooth type in my jobs ooooo. Don't think I've seen smooth Y10 in my environment, except Y8 and the square type.

sorry for my illiterate acts, I wanted to type shape instead. I never mean smoothness.

Takoro13:

sorry for my illiterate acts, I wanted to type shape instead. I never mean smoothness.

Please use rectangular on the outside and triangular on the inside.
Ensure you use a good concrete mix afterwards.
Good luck.

cindybaby22:

This is well explained
Please can a 9 inches pillar reinforced with 16mm rods and 150mm slab reinforced with 12mm septic tank carry the load of car? There is limited land space for number of cars, we may result to parking on septic tank. These are the materials my engineer proposed. Thanks so much

PICTORIAL DEPICTION OF SAFE SEPTIC TANK TO PARK CARS

See the attached photos as illustration if you need to park a number of cars on a septic tank. Notice the rebar on the corners and the introduction of a beam (all round chaining) after about six courses of blockwork and then beaming again after the final six courses of blockwork and the slab with the manhole. This method is a safe industrial standard. Some civil/structural engineers may want to cut corners by adopting some other methods but this approach hardly fails over the years.

bixton:


Yes and No. It is all in the method used at the site.
Just as I've explained in my previous post.
You can substitute Y12 for ground beam, Y16 for columns (depending on your terrain you can install basket to hold the column and add the grade beam).
I use a 20-22(max 25) block/cement bag during moulding (hollow block). I fill my block holes with concrete. Install chaining after 5-6 course, more block work to desired height and concrete filling of block holes. Do the form work for the slab, install beam(external, centre and height of beam 9",run slab matting with Y12 and pour concrete of appropriate mix(thickness of 6". Ensure you cut out your manhole to size.
Good luck.

Why not the person just use re-inforced concrete (granite, cement, iron and stone dust, at proper mix ratio) to do the walls and cover of the Septic tank and not introduce any block at all? He does not even need to make them too thick. Eight inches max, with middle support for the top, cover slabs
That is how l did mine, on very, very soft grounds and l park two heavy SUV's on the two septic tanks, side by side.
No shaking for some years, till now.

Dennis3D:


This is risky. Don't try it.
Reason: The load over time is going to stress your septic tank and soak away if not properly done. Especially if the soil is not hard enough to support such load on it.

With respect Sir,
If he uses stone dust, does not economise on other materials like granite, cement and iron, it will still be standing for the next 50yrs from now, literally speaking.

We needed to drill, then chisel an internal Pole that we used the above mix for and it was impossible, all the iron equipment were iehter breaking or bouncing-off. I really pity the artisan and we just abandoned the effort.
Artisan was like: Oga, wetin you take do this your pillar sef, na iron or na cement?

Dominionng:


Do consider Precast or Polystyrene parapet. They are both cheaper, faster and lighter.

Did you say Polystrene is cheaper?

The quote l got nearly doubled what l spent on casting in-situ.
or may be the price has reduced drastically in the last three years?

Make l go price am, l might need it around next year

Excuzeme:


Why not the person just use re-inforced concrete (granite, cement, iron and stone dust, at proper mix ratio) to do the walls and cover of the Septic tank and not introduce any block at all? He does not even need to make them too thick. Eight inches max, with middle support for the top, cover slabs
That is how l did mine, on very, very soft grounds and l park two heavy SUV's on the two septic tanks, side by side.
No shaking for some years, till now.

The soil type determines the best method to use along with experience and foresight of the individual handling the job. Precast method is good though.

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N.B: Terms and Conditions applied.

elengine:
Professionals in the house. Please I need your advice urgently. I have just plastered a duplex and I did a decking or slab for my water tank on top of the roof. I just realized during the heavy rain that the slab or decking where we have water tank on it is leaking. I see water finding their way from the water slab to the wall inside. Although my plumber has assured that he will fix everything but I am considering doing a scaffolding and put my tank on it. So I want to know if it is possible to fix the slab as claimed by plumber I should just go ahead and do the scaffolding. I was told that slab will always leak even if it is not now, it will leak later

I don't understand what you mean by your plumber fixing everything.

I advise you felt the whole slab and drain the floor through sprout detailing. If you are considering having a scaffold, its great but still you need to arrest leakages on the the slab.

Takoro13:
good day house, is it advisable to use 10mm iron rods for lintel work of inner (partition) walls of 6" blocks in bungalow and how save is it on outer walls of 9" blocks?

my bricklayer suggests we use 3 parallel rods (triangle sharp) instead of usual/normal four (rectangular sharp) on lintel and that we can use 10mm for lintels without any cause for alarms. though he never want to compromise the standard of iron bars used for pillars which were 12mm and rectangular sharp.

thanks

All those bricklayers sef
Why still suggest 10mm when he intends to do a triangular type of reinforcement??
Please use 12mm & if possible do square. I know many people do triangle, but it is not right, reinforcement should be even in number.

diordaves:


PICTORIAL DEPICTION OF SAFE SEPTIC TANK TO PARK CARS

See the attached photos as illustration if you need to park a number of cars on a septic tank. Notice the rebar on the corners and the introduction of a beam (all round chaining) after about six courses of blockwork and then beaming again after the final six courses of blockwork and the slab with the manhole. This method is a safe industrial standard. Some civil/structural engineers may want to cut corners by adopting some other methods but this approach hardly fails over the years.

Is the mat rods for slab in d second pics 16mm same as columns?

elengine:
Professionals in the house. Please I need your advice urgently. I have just plastered a duplex and I did a decking or slab for my water tank on top of the roof. I just realized during the heavy rain that the slab or decking where we have water tank on it is leaking. I see water finding their way from the water slab to the wall inside. Although my plumber has assured that he will fix everything but I am considering doing a scaffolding and put my tank on it. So I want to know if it is possible to fix the slab as claimed by plumber I should just go ahead and do the scaffolding. I was told that slab will always leak even if it is not now, it will leak later

Felt the slab,then tile it,you should not experience any leakage again,pls for tiling of your building you can contact me on Whatsapp on 09069193297

Rubbiish:

Is the mat rods for slab in d second pics 16mm same as columns?

I think it was 12mm all through according to the structural drawings.

diordaves:


I think it was 12mm all through according to the structural drawings.

Including the columns?

Rubbiish:

Including the columns?

Yes

diordaves:


Yes

I don't think it is advisable using 12mm for columns of a septic tank that will carry the load of a car o

diordaves:


I think it was 12mm all through according to the structural drawings.

Clearly it will carry the intended load(s) but that is not to say its the best industrial safe practice even if its done as designed by the structural engineer. They even did not run returns for the mat onto the beams.

elengine:
Professionals in the house. Please I need your advice urgently. I have just plastered a duplex and I did a decking or slab for my water tank on top of the roof. I just realized during the heavy rain that the slab or decking where we have water tank on it is leaking. I see water finding their way from the water slab to the wall inside. Although my plumber has assured that he will fix everything but I am considering doing a scaffolding and put my tank on it. So I want to know if it is possible to fix the slab as claimed by plumber I should just go ahead and do the scaffolding. I was told that slab will always leak even if it is not now, it will leak later

Use waterproof cement to floor with tiles slope to floor drains, use flout switch. scaffolding is the best but also has its danger if not well done.

bixton:


Clearly it will carry the intended load(s) but that is not to say its the best industrial safe practice even if its done as designed by the structural engineer. They even did not run returns for the mat onto the beams.

You sure a 12mm reinforced column can safely carry the weight of a car?

bixton:


Clearly it will carry the intended load(s) but that is not to say its the best industrial safe practice even if its done as designed by the structural engineer. They even did not run returns for the mat onto the beams.

@bold the beam was cast separately from the slab

Rubbiish:

You sure a 12mm reinforced column can safely carry the weight of a car?

True, it will.
You have not just reinforcement but a rich concrete mix to keep the tank intact.
If I intend doing such I reduce the stirrups spacing for both columns and beams.

Rubbiish:

I don't think it is advisable using 12mm for columns of a septic tank that will carry the load of a car o

12mm columns with the right mix ratio will carry the load of a car conveniently and safely. If you want to build a septic tank column with 16mm, you may have your reasons for doing that so long as you are trained and certified to design such structure, I'm with you.

I didn't design and certified the tank. A seasoned structural engineer did and he certified that the structure is safe and fit for purpose.

diordaves:


12mm columns with the right mix ratio will carry the load of a car conveniently and safely. If you want to build a septic tank column with 16mm, you may have your reasons for doing that so long as you are trained and certified to design such structure, I'm with you.

I didn't design and certified the tank. A seasoned structural engineer did and he certified that the structure is safe and fit for purpose.

Thanks for d explanation sir

bixton:


True, it will.
You have not just reinforcement but a rich concrete mix to keep the tank intact.
If I intend doing such I reduce the stirrups spacing for both columns and beams.

Ok
Thanks sir

Good Day Guys. I am about to do my first setting out for bored pile. Please is it preferable to just mark out the centre point or the entire diameter. Thanks.