Saipro:

Having said that, I have a few brand new, in-the-box Victron and Fanpusun gadgets for sale
- Victron VE.Direct 375VA 48VDC inverter
- Victron BMV 702 (with shunt and cables)
- Fangpusun 100/50 MPPT charge controller (display also available)
- EpSolar (Epever) 150V 60A MPPT
- three new units of Midnite SPD 300V

Used for less than year (then retired) but in perfect working order are
- Victron VE.Can 150/70 MPPT charge controller
- Victron VE.Direct 150/85 MPPT charge controller
- Victron VE.Direct 375VA 48VDC inverter
- Victron VE.Direct 800VA 48VDC inverter
- Victron Color Control GX

This is not a distress sale. Just a surplus listing
WhatsApp/Call O8O 3961 2147

Arg, boss you of all people know how this goes...

Biko, mbok, let's see the digits.
Thanchu sir

earthrealm:


oh, sweet, the mpp solar tracks energy usage again?..thats a big plus. saves one the small coins and labour in installing a standalone energy tracker as well. reminds me, that am yet to install the AC & DC UNITS I BOUGHT.

Anybody using this unit?...dc watt meter
Could you explain how you connected your cc and inverter to it

I use a similar meter.

The DC IN is your solar panel output from the Charge Controller. The load is your battery.

So the bottom terminal (as placed in the diagram in your post) goes into both the positive of your battery and the positive of your terminal. The second hole goes into the negative side of your panel and one side of your shunt. The third hole goes into the same side of your shunt. Finally, the fourth hole goes to the other side of the shunt and the negative side of your battery.

I hope this helps!

laposta:


I use a similar meter.

The DC IN bis your solar panel. The load is your battery.

So the bottom terminal (as placed in the diagram in your post) goes into both the positive of your battery and the positive of your terminal. The second hole goes into the negative side of your panel and one side of your shunt. The third hole goes into the same side of your shunt. Finally, the fourth hole goes to the other side of the shunt and the negative side of your battery.

I hope this helps!

Load is battery, not inverter?.
Where does the cc output go to?

earthrealm:


Load is battery, not inverter?.
Where does the cc output go to?

Sorry for the mix up.

By solar panel, I meant CC. So output from the CC is the DC Input on the Wattmeter. I've edited the post to reflect my thoughts correctly.

Load is the battery, not the inverter. It is the battery that is drawing load from the panels, not the inverter.

laposta:


Sorry for the mix up.

By solar panel, I meant CC. So output from the CC is the DC Input on the Wattmeter. I've edited the post to reflect my thoughts correctly.

Load is the battery, not the inverter. It is the battery that is drawing load from the panels, not the inverter.

HMMM..MAYBE I WANT MINE TO TRACK SOMETHING DIFFERENT,
THE ENERGY BEING DRAWN FROM THE PANELS via the cc, i already know, as the cc tracks/displays that.
what i want to track/know is the energy being taken from my battery from the inverter to power loads, my mustpower inverter simply shows instantenous load, but i need to know the total daily kwh taken from my battery daily, thats the main reason i bought the unit.

my lil confusion is with the cc+inverter in the mix, both acting as energy supplier and then inverter acting as energy consumer {which in my mind = LOAD}, when phcn is off

my plan for connecting it - battery = dc in
inverter = load

Hello house,

Please I want to ask if anyone has used SMG lead acid inverter battery before?/Made in India. How good is it?

oliyeniun:
Hello house,

Please I want to ask if anyone has used SMG lead acid inverter battery before?/Made in India. How good is it?

It’s a good battery and long lasting.

Thanks for the feedback

mcTrinity:


Arg, boss you of all people know how this goes...

Biko, mbok, let's see the digits.
Thanchu sir

You're right. Was a spur-of-the-moment listing. I expected to be taken up on it.

Here it goes:
- Victron VE.Direct 375VA 48VDC inverter (no charger) - 60k
- Victron BMV 702 (with shunt and cables) - 100k
- Fangpusun 100/50 MPPT charge controller - 46k
- Fangpusun display - 20k
- EpSolar (Epever) 150V 60A MPPT - 130k
- Midnite SPD 300V surge protector - 47k
- Midnite MNPV8HV-DISCO 4X disconnect/combiner box - 360k

Used for less than year (then retired) but in perfect working order are
- Victron VE.Can 150/70 MPPT charge controller - 140k
- Victron VE.Direct 150/85 Blue Solar MPPT charge controller - 160k
- Victron VE.Direct 375VA 48VDC inverter (no charger) - 40k
- Victron VE.Direct 800VA 48VDC inverter (no charger) - 90k
- Victron Color Control GX - 150k

This is not a distress sale. Just a surplus/retired-on-account-of-upgrade listing
WhatsApp/Call O8O 3961 2147

Below is how the panels sitting is made on the panels standing.

Topmost11:


Now I get. Im thinking of using aluminium poles to cross the inverted L, then fix the panels with bolt and nut to the aluminium poles.

Several moons ago, we drew extensive diagrams on how to connect this.

But let me go again - you have two items, a display meter and a shunt - the shunt is a metal strip of known resistance - the meter reads the voltage drop across the two sides of the shunt and converts it into a amperage (load) reading.

I believe you have an 100a/75mv shunt so each each 1mv of drop across the shunt is read as 1.33amps. Since the shunt is a calibrated metal piece you have two sides of it - the power/battery side (bottom of shunt in your pics) and the load side (top side of shunt in your pic)

To wiring - Let us label top to bottom as in your wiring diagram (back of the meter) let us call it pins/terminals 1, 2 , 3 ,4

The simple part - wire pin 4 directly to your battery +ve and pin 3 to your battery negative - for this part, it should be easy to see that this is only the voltage supply to the meter so any cable from 1mm2 is okay.


Look at the shunt itself - the bottom part at the very end that would take a large screw is the battery side - wire that directly to the battery -ve terminal with suitable gauge/thickness of cable. The top side of the shunt is the load side. Here you put anything you want to measure the charge or discharge of - if you wanted to see what your houseloads pulled through your inverter, you put the inverter negative cable here, if you want to see what your CC puts in your batteries, you put the CC negative cable here too.

So only negative cables for inverter and/or CC connect to the load side of the shunt.

Still talking about the shunt, you are now left with the two tiny screw terminals for measuring voltage drop/difference - take a small gauge wire of 1mm2 or more from the small screw terminal on the load side of the shunt to pin 1 (topmost terminal) of the meter and take another small gauge wire from the screw terminal at the battery side of the shunt to pin 2 of your meter.

If you did it right, meter should be lit up and taking readings.

earthrealm:


oh, sweet, the mpp solar tracks energy usage again?..thats a big plus. saves one the small coins and labour in installing a standalone energy tracker as well. reminds me, that am yet to install the AC & DC UNITS I BOUGHT.

Anybody using this unit?...dc watt meter
Could you explain how you connected your cc and inverter to it

If your inverter is grid connected then you may get misleading readings as sometimes the inverter is taking power out of the battery (off grid) and sometimes putting power back (charging the battery).

But to achieve what you want, simply connect only the inverter negative cable to the load side of the shunt - connect CC negative directly to the battery terminal or bus bar.

Remember only negative cables connect to the shunt - if you put any CC or inverter positive on the shunt you may release the magic smoke.

earthrealm:


HMMM..MAYBE I WANT MINE TO TRACK SOMETHING DIFFERENT,
THE ENERGY BEING DRAWN FROM THE PANELS via the cc, i already know, as the cc tracks/displays that.
what i want to track/know is the energy being taken from my battery from the inverter to power loads, my mustpower inverter simply shows instantenous load, but i need to know the total daily kwh taken from my battery daily, thats the main reason i bought the unit.

my lil confusion is with the cc+inverter in the mix, both acting as energy supplier and then inverter acting as energy consumer {which in my mind = LOAD}, when phcn is off

my plan for connecting it - battery = dc in
inverter = load

hello house, being a while. need some inputs on this.
I currently have a system that works well for me.
2pcs of 100ah batteries in parallel.
40a pwm cc, 1000w modified 12v inverter and a 600w pv (150x4) in parallel.
inverter runtime is from 7am to 9:30 pm daily with average load of 80w. from 9:30pm to 7am, I run dc loads of about 80w load.
am able to achieve. above 50% dod with this setup. I am now upgrading as I need am adding a 80w AKIA fridge to the setup. the fridge will run during peak sunlight around 11am to 3am.
I would still love working with a 12v inverter because of my Dc loads.
whats your take on the required upgrade.@ceaser,topmost,kiekie,..niyi....ojesky....etal

olendave:


I think the power rating in watts is around 110 -120 watts

From the formula of P=IV ; where P is power in watts, I is the value of the rated current and V is the rated voltage.

From the provided data: P= 0.5 x 220 = 110 watt
or
P=0.5 x 240 = 120 watt.

My view about it.

Correct view. add 15w if d lamp is on. enjoy ur money

SolnergyPower:
Below is how the panels sitting is made on the panels standing.

Noted. Thanks

Come on now, Zeestone.. sokoto is calling you o...

zeestone99:


I understand you sir. We will do our best to help you sir. What is the update on the controller.

Huge discount for any Fangpusun products. This offer is valid for the first 3 people

Israelicc:
Come on now, Zeestone.. sokoto is calling you o...

solasola:
hello house, being a while. need some inputs on this.
I currently have a system that works well for me.
2pcs of 100ah batteries in parallel.
40a pwm cc, 1000w modified 12v inverter and a 600w pv (150x4) in parallel.
inverter runtime is from 7am to 9:30 pm daily with average load of 80w. from 9:30pm to 7am, I run dc loads of about 80w load.
am able to achieve. above 50% dod with this setup. I am now upgrading as I need am adding a 80w AKIA fridge to the setup. the fridge will run during peak sunlight around 11am to 3am.
I would still love working with a 12v inverter because of my Dc loads.
whats your take on the required upgrade.@ceaser,topmost,kiekie,..niyi....ojesky....etal

As long as your Solar setup is fine with maximum output, I don't see any problem with that. The only problem I see here, is with your Inverter!
Modified sinewave inverters are not good for inductive load like refrigerators. So! You may have to change your inverter to pure sinewave inverter.

Never the less, the gurus here will provide better view to this

Inverter VA Rating - 7500 VA
Battery Capacity - 150 Ah
Number of batteries - 10

Can I get this and how much would it cost please ?

Please my luminous sine wave 900va inverter, keeps showing me this error message each time i charge with my generator...help please.

saint2ace:


Got hit by the spam bot yesterday while trying to post the link to the power bank case you posted here, na wa oh. By force holiday

Sorry bro. That thing could be so annoying . Me Don become veteran for that ban thingy.

Callmenuel1:
60watt solar flood light available, #16 000. Contact us on 08168986461

How many hours into the night does this work (at full brightness) after full charge?

And I hope it's not with PIR sensor.

queenfav:
happy New year solarlanders.Pls i just got this hisense fridge,i can't seem to find d watts it uses.Pls can anyone help me figure that out from the info here?

Olendave has given a likely consumption of your device.

But the other way to be absolutely sure about your device is to have a wattmeter handy. Use it to determine the consumption of this fridge.

Subsequently when you wanna purchase any AC appliance, go to the merchant armed with the meter and have it plugged into the appliance when it's being tested. You can then relay your findings to guys here to help decide before your buy.

ceaser:


Olendave has given a likely consumption of your device.

But the other way to be absolutely sure about your device is to have a wattmeter handy. Use it to determine the consumption of this fridge.

Subsequently when you wanna purchase any AC appliance, go to the merchant armed with the meter and have it plugged into the appliance when it's being tested. You can then relay your findings to guys here to help decide before your buy.

hello ceaser, pls help out with recomending a 12v pure sine wave hybrid inverter with adjustable dod that can power a 150w fridge. Thanks

earthrealm:


HMMM..MAYBE I WANT MINE TO TRACK SOMETHING DIFFERENT,
THE ENERGY BEING DRAWN FROM THE PANELS via the cc, i already know, as the cc tracks/displays that.
what i want to track/know is the energy being taken from my battery from the inverter to power loads, my mustpower inverter simply shows instantenous load, but i need to know the total daily kwh taken from my battery daily, thats the main reason i bought the unit.

my lil confusion is with the cc+inverter in the mix, both acting as energy supplier and then inverter acting as energy consumer {which in my mind = LOAD}, when phcn is off

my plan for connecting it - battery = dc in
inverter = load

Perhaps you'll do better with new types of DC meters that utilize hall sensors rather than wire connections to measure the energy consumption. The terminals on those ones are usually limited to the Voltage input, hall sensor terminal and the temperature probe terminal for those with temperature parameters (that's about four terminals in all). The energy is measured with the hall sensor. Some have the added advantage of being able to simultaneously measure parameters either way i.e. the energy going into the battery and the energy being utilized all through the same wire(s)

They are a little bit pricey though.

By the way, I am wary of putting energy meters in-between the solar panels and the Charge Controller cos one MPPT CC manual I have explicitly forbade it. However I still love to do that.

Has anyone done that with an MPPT SCC without consequences?

solasola:
hello house, being a while. need some inputs on this.
I currently have a system that works well for me.
2pcs of 100ah batteries in parallel.
40a pwm cc, 1000w modified 12v inverter and a 600w pv (150x4) in parallel.
inverter runtime is from 7am to 9:30 pm daily with average load of 80w. from 9:30pm to 7am, I run dc loads of about 80w load.
am able to achieve. above 50% dod with this setup. I am now upgrading as I need am adding a 80w AKIA fridge to the setup. the fridge will run during peak sunlight around 11am to 3am.
I would still love working with a 12v inverter because of my Dc loads.
whats your take on the required upgrade.@ceaser,topmost,kiekie,..niyi....ojesky....etal

I think your 600 watts panel will still be sufficient to power the total 160 watts load and charge the battery sufficiently especially during this periods of good insolation, you may need to add more for the rainy season.

You are about putting two appliances with huge startup current on the set up. The two will have to start at different times. A 1000 watts (2000 watts surge) may be sufficient.

And why modified sine inverter with your refrigerator? You may get by with this but believe me, that is not healthy for the compressors. Akin to someone binging on junk foods instead of better foods. Such individual may get by for sometime, but if obesity doesn't catch up soon, hypercholesterolemia and MI will.

As per 12v vs higher volts, well my take is that I have done fine on loads within 200 watts on 12v system but with good cabling sizes. Although on the flip size, I wished I'd started with 24v system since I now have 24v lithium within reach (I'd stayed away from 24v system because of the trouble with battery balancing and other babysitting that 24v lead acid set up requires).

While 200 watts load on your 12v system may not be much of a hassle in surge-free conditions, the challenge I foresee is the startup surges of the devices (now 2 of them) which 24v will have handled seamlessly.

Your choice of 12v DC devices should not preclude you from upgrading to 24v system, in fact you have better versatility with 24v system: longer run distances at lower heat losses and you still get to be able to use devices that may require 18v-24v DC. I have a water tank level meter cum pump controller that is 15vdc - 24vdc rated, so there are everyday devices that still run on higher than 12v.

Better still, if you are on 24v and needs to run 12v devices, high efficiency, minimal losses buck converters abound out there that you can always rely on.

Please await input from the gurus in the house.

Saipro:

You're right. Was a spur-of-the-moment listing. I expected to be taken up on it.

Here it goes:
- Victron VE.Direct 375VA 48VDC inverter (no charger) - 60k
- Victron BMV 702 (with shunt and cables) - 100k
- Fangpusun 100/50 MPPT charge controller - 46k
- Fangpusun display - 20k
- EpSolar (Epever) 150V 60A MPPT - 130k
- Midnite SPD 300V surge protector - 47k
- Midnite MNPV8HV-DISCO 4X disconnect/combiner box - 360k

Used for less than year (then retired) but in perfect working order are
- Victron VE.Can 150/70 MPPT charge controller - 140k
- [s]Victron VE.Direct 150/85 Blue Solar MPPT charge controller - 160k[/s] Sold
- Victron VE.Direct 375VA 48VDC inverter (no charger) - 40k
- [s]Victron VE.Direct 800VA 48VDC inverter (no charger) - 90k[/s] Sold
- Victron Color Control GX - 150k

This is not a distress sale. Just a surplus/retired-on-account-of-upgrade listing
WhatsApp/Call O8O 3961 2147

Thanks for the patronage. Keep the calls/messages coming.

Good morning everyone.
I have this setup at my grandma's.
She has round the clock electricity supply through this (TV 60watts, dstv decoder, random phone charging, led bulbs of 5watts each (at most 3 on at once).

I am worried it only has 300w panels on the roof, I feel she is using more of the battery power during the day and night.

Is it possible to get full charge from these panels and load?
Any advice can be given to get better battery life fr the future?

solasola:
hello house, being a while. need some inputs on this.
I currently have a system that works well for me.
2pcs of 100ah batteries in parallel.
40a pwm cc, 1000w modified 12v inverter and a 600w pv (150x4) in parallel.
inverter runtime is from 7am to 9:30 pm daily with average load of 80w. from 9:30pm to 7am, I run dc loads of about 80w load.
am able to achieve. above 50% dod with this setup. I am now upgrading as I need am adding a 80w AKIA fridge to the setup. the fridge will run during peak sunlight around 11am to 3am.
I would still love working with a 12v inverter because of my Dc loads.
whats your take on the required upgrade.@ceaser,topmost,kiekie,..niyi....ojesky....etal

I've got a few units of EPEVER 30A MMPT Charge Controller for N35,000 if you'd like an upgrade of your charge controller. It is also available on my store on Jumia if you'd prefer to deal through Jumia.

earthrealm:


...big leagues is any setup that consistently hits 500% panel array and above.
Btw your display is a lil confusing, whats the 3.76kwh stand for?

With significant shading from noon on a all series setup, there has been consistency between 5 and 6kwh daily. I am on 50% DOD by morning. I think the MPP solar GK and sunfit has delivered, now I hope it lasts.

solasola:
hello ceaser, pls help out with recomending a 12v pure sine wave hybrid inverter with adjustable dod that can power a 150w fridge. Thanks

I actually have one that I have retired. Very good product like that. Used for a year. 12v "BTS" PSW with AC charger with 20% 50% selectable DoD. But it's 750kva so I'm not too sure if it will handle your load. I believe the highest KVA with 12v in that product line up is 1.2kva. Higher KVA come at 24v nominal. It was bought off of Konga. I'll see if I can retrieve the link.