eleojo23:


Village people be looking at you like..."Do that again one more time please..."

I swear down bro...

ceaser:


I actually have one that I have retired. Very good product like that. Used for a year. 12v "BTS" PSW with AC charger with 20% 50% selectable DoD. But it's 750kva so I'm not too sure if it will handle your load. I believe the highest KVA with 12v in that product line up is 1.2kva. Higher KVA come at 24v nominal. It was bought off of Konga. I'll see if I can retrieve the link.

Pls can i get the link? Or urs if you don't mind giving it out.

Thanks for the kind words.
Have a splendid night's rest.
And have solar

tonididdy:

You are so nice bro with your responses. If this is 90% then I do get 13.5v (as I type now, my gen is on and the CC displays 13.5v)

tonididdy:

You are so nice bro with your responses. If this is 90% then I do get 13.5v (as I type now, my gen is on and the CC displays 13.5v)

That is not the actual battery voltage, it's rather the charging voltage and can go up to 15v depending on the type of battery, CC settings or the state of charge.

ceaser:


How many hours into the night does this work (at full brightness) after full charge?

And I hope it's not with PIR sensor.

Am interested to hear response to this as well.

cc: Callmenuel1

Felicity panels in stock o
260w-28k
325w-39k

Trippledots:


Pls can i get the link? Or urs if you don't mind giving it out.

Please note that the screen display can not be switched off, at least that's with the one I have. This picture seems to show an improved new model (can't be so sure but the switch on this is different from that in mine).

Also I found out that generally, inverters with in-built AC charger tend to have higher no-load consumption hence the reason I retired it for one with no AC charger. I didn't really test the consumption but I took that "fact" of higher no-load consumption as a fact.

This inverter has in-built voltage stabilizer as well, so I guess that will further contribute to no-load consumption.

Another thing noteworthy in this inverter is the fact that when the charging voltage is low to around 180v to around 196v (which is very common with NEPA supply) and you have appliances plugged into it, the voltage stabilizer switches the battery charging off and shunts the voltage directly to power the appliance, hence battery charging suffers. But if appliances aren't plugged in during this period, the battery is charged.

If voltage input is adequate, charging is quite fast (I think the in-built charger is 20A) and it is able to power appliances at the same time.

I hated that problem so I bought an external charger to charge my batteries.

olopan:
If I may.
Connect two of them in series i.e. the positive to the negative of the other
and you do the same for the next two then,
you connect the two positive ends together and the negatives
using a pair of two way MC4 connectors.
And you finish the setup using your existing cables before.
Cheers

I have done that. 2s2p setup. The problem is that the panels arent enough for the 24v inverter.i appears to be drawing much energy on idle state.my battery ends up being depleted. Thanks

ceaser:

wow nice one.

guys pls if you are setting up solar for your old ones in d village or location of considerable distance try not to use flooded batrs. nagode

Trippledots:


Look, you are taking this thing the long arduous route. That app is just a program so it is giving u results based on your inputed values. That 95mm cable shoud let u knw using a pwm CC for ur design is highly inefficient. As earlier advised, manage your present harvest or re arrange ur modules and use an MPPT CC. That's all.

I already changed to my idle mppt. Only disadvantage is it only shows daily harvest which disappears at sundown unlike the pwm that gives me cumulative harvest

DONT MISS THIS GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY!!


DISCOUNTED SALES !!!

1) Ultron made in Korea 200a battery ... 115,000

2) Axpert 1.2kva 12v pure sinewave inverter ... 50,000

3) Schneider 1.5kva 24v pure sinewave inverter .. 72,000

4) USA Trojan 225a flooded battery ... 140,000

5) USA Trojan 205a AGM battery ... 160,000

6) USA Trojan 315a 6v AGM Battey ... 155,000

7) Axpert 3kva 24v pure sinewave solar inverter with 80a combined total charging current...110,000

Schneider sw 4048 inverter ...700,000

9) Schneider sw 8548 inverter ...1,300,000

10) Morningstar 45a mppt ...... 150,000

11) Pro solar roof mount and accessories which can take up to 4 units of 370w panels ..... N35,000

12) Improvised solar mount kit .... N15,000

13) Monbat 12v 200a fta battery ....118,000

14) Quanta 12v 200a ... 118,000 (brown carton non export high quality with 64kg weight)

15) Quanta 12v 200a .... 122,000 (white carton for export with 62kg weight)

DON'T MISS THIS GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY!


[b]NOTE:[/b]We also supply products >> outback,victron, Felicity,flames,foresolar, luminous,magnum,era,ja solar,amerisolar,jinko,solarworld,SMA,keye,solar water heaters etc... feel free to contact us as usual !


Contact,
Smartcell global services
081-350-31951
WHATSAPP::: https:///2348170385620

In need of quality fast renewable energy product supplies , load audit, maintenance, installation ?

Feel free to reach us as usual !


Contact,
Smartcell global services
081-350-31951
WHATSAPP::: https:///2348170385620

TIP; We need to be very careful with how some buyers are very eager to procure cheap substandard renewable energy materials.. First it was the scam about "cells made in germany", later came all sorts of german and japan gel technology in batteries.. Now is dekka, victron, phocos, so many low quality unbranded/rebranded solar panels floating around open market.. We may soon start buying andre and kuemmerling solar panels and batteries ! We've so many enthusiastic individuals who can't really identify fake items to be factual like snapshot sample below.. A word is enough for the wise !!

Hi guys. I just carried out the first major upgrade of my offgrid solar setup after decommissioning the previous install back in December. The new upgrade was long in planning and the idea was to incorporate things I learned from the first install. Unlike the previous install where I had control over many aspect of the system including roof location and battery install location. This new one I had to make do with what is available, The only roof space available for me was the north side of a building adjoining to mine since my roof could not support the installation of 9 335w solar panel in series.

Basic System Specification Include:

9 x 335w Yingli Poly Solar Panels = 3015w
Axpert MKS 3KVA / 2.4Kw Inverter (iPowerplus label)
Victron Smart MPPT 100A / 150v Solar Charge Controller
4 x Exide TI1750 200AH Flooded Battery

Accessory Include:
Victron Battery Monitor BMV 700
Victron Battery Voltage and Temperature Sensor
Raspberry Pi 3B (For remote Monitoring Dashboard)

Panel Configuration
The panels were installed in a 3 3 3 setup, 3 panels in series and the output of each series connection are then paralleled into a home made combiner box. Each positive side of the 3 series array were each terminated to a DC breakers installed in a breaker box to allow for array separation and then from breaker box to home made combiner box.

Inverter and CC configuration

I installed a positive and Negative busbar. All Positive wire from the inverter and cc terminated to a positive bus bar each running through a 125A DC circuit breaker. The Negative from the inverter also terminates to the battery bus bar via the current shunt for the victron battery monitor.

Battery Setup:
The batteries are connected in series parallel. 2 pairs of batteries in series and their output combined together in parallel. The parallel setup was configured so that each battery had a + and - wiring of equal length terminated to the same positive and negative busbar where the inverter was installed

Cabling:
For cabling, I used 6mm for the PV to the combiner box
From the combiner box to the cc is a 10mm cable (distance is less than 2 meters)
cc and inverter to battery bus bar is a 25mm cable
bus bar to the batteries is a 35mm cable
1 foot 50mm cable was used for the series connection

I installed a Victron Battery sensor for voltage and battery temperature sensor. It is installed on one of the batteries in the bank and connected to the battery terminal point to give out the battery voltage at terminal to the charge controller and also sends the battery temperature for temperature compensated charging.

Monitoring
A rasbberry Pi 3 is installed. It uses the Victron VE direct to usb cable to quarry information from the charge controller and the battery monitor bmv 700, it also uses the USB B to USB A cable supplied with the Axpert MKS 3KVA inverter to query it for data. The Pi is connected to my home wireless network and sends all the data gathered (via the MQQT protocol) to my custom emoncms install on a virtual private server someone in the cloud. The result is the dashboard which displays in real time the system performance http://energy.bobby.com.ng/dashboard/view?id=14
(The energy log is abit off, I generated 9kwh yesterday but it is reading 18kwh so it needs a little tweaking).

In all the system is a mid sized setup to power a moderate load of about 450w (day time load) and 250w - 90w load at night. From the battery monitoring usually pull about 90AH - 100AH from the battery bank at night which is about 25-30% dod. Fridge and freezer go off by 6pm and comes on by 9am

200amphs, 12volts MONBAT battery is available, #85, 000. Contact us on 08168986461.

Callmenuel1:
200amphs, 12volts MONBAT battery is available, #85, 000. Contact us on 08168986461.

This competition sweet
On a serious note, buying quality products directly from the manufacturers/producers should be our guide to avoid fakes

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I am not sure there is any demerit to having a shunt in line.

All the big names Victron, Bogart Engineering, Midnite all use a shunt - difference is what the shunt is made to handle e.g Victron and Bogart use a ~500A rated shunt - 500A at 48v nominal is ~ 25Kw - very few people pull that kind of power through their CC or inverter and Victron sells a 1000A and 2000A shunt upgrade as well.

....

Very correct. However, all 3 of the aforementioned manufacturers have meters able to use shunts up to 5,000A I think. I once got a 5,000 shunt for my Midnite before tossing it out. Couldn't even give it out for free (as you mentioned, almost no home user deals with that kind of capacity). Darn thing weighs a ton!

bigrovar:
Hi guys. . The result is the dashboard which displays in real time the system performance http://energy.bobby.com.ng/dashboard/view?id=14
(The energy log is abit off, I generated 9kwh yesterday but it is reading 18kwh so it needs a little tweaking).

In all the system is a mid sized setup to power a moderate load of about 450w (day time load) and 250w - 90w load at night. From the battery monitoring usually pull about 90AH - 100AH from the battery bank at night which is about 25-30% dod. Fridge and freezer go off by 6pm and comes on by 9am

This is cool, If it's a normal fridge I think you can still leave it on without issues (my freezer comes on by 10am and off by 4pm). I don't know why but I think my fridge pulls lesser power through the night (less than 50w) so I leave it on and am still at 50% DoD by morning (off-grid on a 300A battery bank). What has been your peak hervest on the 3kw array?

hancock:


This competition sweet
On a serious note, buying quality products directly from the manufacturers/producers should be our guide to avoid fakes

Yes indeed but do you think the mombat advertised is a fake? It doesn't need to be expensive to be original

bigrovar:
Hi guys. I just carried out the first major upgrade of my offgrid solar setup after decommissioning the previous install back in December. The new upgrade was long in planning and the idea was to incorporate things I learned from the first install. Unlike the previous install where I had control over many aspect of the system including roof location and battery install location. This new one I had to make do with what is available, The only roof space available for me was the north side of a building adjoining to mine since my roof could not support the installation of 9 335w solar panel in series.

Basic System Specification Include:

9 x 335w Yingli Poly Solar Panels = 3015w
Axpert MKS 3KVA / 2.4Kw Inverter (iPowerplus label)
Victron Smart MPPT 100A / 150v Solar Charge Controller
4 x Exide TI1750 200AH Flooded Battery

Accessory Include:
Victron Battery Monitor BMV 700
Victron Battery Voltage and Temperature Sensor
Raspberry Pi 3B (For remote Monitoring Dashboard)

Panel Configuration
The panels were installed in a 3 3 3 setup, 3 panels in series and the output of each series connection are then paralleled into a home made combiner box. Each positive side of the 3 series array were each terminated to a DC breakers installed in a breaker box to allow for array separation and then from breaker box to home made combiner box.

Inverter and CC configuration

I installed a positive and Negative busbar. All Positive wire from the inverter and cc terminated to a positive bus bar each running through a 125A DC circuit breaker. The Negative from the inverter also terminates to the battery bus bar via the current shunt for the victron battery monitor.

Battery Setup:
The batteries are connected in series parallel. 2 pairs of batteries in series and their output combined together in parallel. The parallel setup was configured so that each battery had a + and - wiring of equal length terminated to the same positive and negative busbar where the inverter was installed

Cabling:
For cabling, I used 6mm for the PV to the combiner box
From the combiner box to the cc is a 10mm cable (distance is less than 2 meters)
cc and inverter to battery bus bar is a 25mm cable
bus bar to the batteries is a 35mm cable
1 foot 50mm cable was used for the series connection

I installed a Victron Battery sensor for voltage and battery temperature sensor. It is installed on one of the batteries in the bank and connected to the battery terminal point to give out the battery voltage at terminal to the charge controller and also sends the battery temperature for temperature compensated charging.

Monitoring
A rasbberry Pi 3 is installed. It uses the Victron VE direct to usb cable to quarry information from the charge controller and the battery monitor bmv 700, it also uses the USB B to USB A cable supplied with the Axpert MKS 3KVA inverter to query it for data. The Pi is connected to my home wireless network and sends all the data gathered (via the MQQT protocol) to my custom emoncms install on a virtual private server someone in the cloud. The result is the dashboard which displays in real time the system performance http://energy.bobby.com.ng/dashboard/view?id=14
(The energy log is abit off, I generated 9kwh yesterday but it is reading 18kwh so it needs a little tweaking).

In all the system is a mid sized setup to power a moderate load of about 450w (day time load) and 250w - 90w load at night. From the battery monitoring usually pull about 90AH - 100AH from the battery bank at night which is about 25-30% dod. Fridge and freezer go off by 6pm and comes on by 9am

Congratulations on your new setup. This must've cost a lot. I like that you are rocking the flooded cell batteries, which it's been a while I've seen anyone use.

Call or WhatsApp us on- 08168986461

ojeysky:


This is cool, If it's a normal fridge I think you can still leave it on without issues (my freezer comes on by 10am and off by 4pm). I don't know why but I think my fridge pulls lesser power through the night (less than 50w) so I leave it on and am still at 50% DoD by morning (on a 300A battery bank). What has been your peak hervest on the 3kw array?

pls whats the make of your fridge, if possible pictures my LG fridge still consume 195w after 6hrs usage

@Bigrovar looking at your flooded batteries, they seem to be on the bare tiled floor.
Please try to get em on some kinda hard plastic or wooden base. From my little practical experience I've found out that batteries on the bare floor get really cold at the base. This affects it's chemistry negatively.

Hello house,

Please i am trying to install a solar panel system for my parents, can you recommend a good solar installer in Ilorin?

Secondly, I want to ask if anyone can help with the schematic drawing for hybrid inverter connection. I am not an expert but I try to read up, and from my readings, it seems that the connection of solar hybrid inverter is different from the normal solar-inverter connection.

Thirdly, I assume I don't need a charge controller if I am using a hybrid inverter...please help clarify.

Lastly, what is the recommended cable size and type for connection from the panels to the inverter....this is so that if I don't get a recommended installer, I can at least monitor the one I can manage to get to ensure a good connection.

Thanks house.

Janyves:
@Bigrovar looking at your flooded batteries, they seem to be on the bare tiled floor.
Please try to get em on some kinda hard plastic or wooden base. From my little practical experience I've found out that batteries on the bare floor get really cold at the base. This affects it's chemistry negatively.

That is actually the idea.. Batteries hate heat and Nigeria is generally a hot and tropical region so ambient temperature tend to be very high. Heat is the enemy of battery and putting it on the floor was suppose to help with some form of heat transfer. Well that was the idea.. but turns such theory might not translate where in practical sense since the heat transfer would be minimal and advantages of putting it on the floor kind of minimal. I would be putting it on wood for the practical purpose of cleaning... not a priority now though.

Can the experts please recommend a response?

oliyeniun:
Hello house,

Please i am trying to install a solar panel system for my parents, can you recommend a good solar installer in Ilorin?

Secondly, I want to ask if anyone can help with the schematic drawing for hybrid inverter connection. I am not an expert but I try to read up, and from my readings, it seems that the connection of solar hybrid inverter is different from the normal solar-inverter connection.

Thirdly, I assume I don't need a charge controller if I am using a hybrid inverter...please help clarify.

Lastly, what is the recommended cable size and type for connection from the panels to the inverter....this is so that if I don't get a recommended installer, I can at least monitor the one I can manage to get to ensure a good connection.

Thanks house.

Topmost11:
Let's see today's yield with other things remaining same

How has the charge controller been performing?

What voltage comes out of the load interface of the charge controller?
Is there a setting to cut off the output to that load at a certain battery level/voltage?

Valto:
pls whats the make of your fridge, if possible pictures my LG fridge still consume 195w after 6hrs usage

Well you may be using a bigger fridge, mine is a "small" 9 years old thermocool HR -135A fridge

oliyeniun:
Hello house, Thanks house.

Please i am trying to install a solar panel system for my parents, can you recommend a good solar installer in Ilorin? ------ AM SURE ANY OF THE INSTALLERS WOULD CONTACT U, IF ITS A BIG PROJECT. ZEESTONE/NIYI/KIEKIE ETC, DISTANCE ISNT AN ISSUE. IF NONE..THEN CONTACT ANY SOLAR INSTALLER IN ILLORIN LET HIM GIVE YOU HIS DESIGN, AND YOU COME HER POST IT AND WE QAQC IT

Secondly, I want to ask if anyone can help with the schematic drawing for hybrid inverter connection. I am not an expert but I try to read up, and from my readings, it seems that the connection of solar hybrid inverter is different from the normal solar-inverter connection. -------ALMOST SAME..JUST THAT IT HAS ANOTHER NEG & POS TERMINAL FOR THE SOLAR PANELS INPUT, THEN THE STANDARD NEG& POSITIVE TERMINAL FOR BATTERY

Thirdly, I assume I don't need a charge controller if I am using a hybrid inverter...please help clarify. ....YES

Lastly, what is the recommended cable size and type for connection from the panels to the inverter....this is so that if I don't get a recommended installer, I can at least monitor the one I can manage to get to ensure a good connection.---THIS IS A FACTOR OF DISTANCE, THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN THRASHED A MILLION TIMES HERE, AND LINKS POSTED TO CROSSCHECK YOUR CABLE REQUIREMENT

earthrealm:


Please i am trying to install a solar panel system for my parents, can you recommend a good solar installer in Ilorin? ------ AM SURE ANY OF THE INSTALLERS WOULD CONTACT U, IF ITS A BIG PROJECT. ZEESTONE/NIYI/KIEKIE ETC, DISTANCE ISNT AN ISSUE. IF NONE..THEN CONTACT ANY SOLAR INSTALLER IN ILLORIN LET HIM GIVE YOU HIS DESIGN, AND YOU COME HER POST IT AND WE QAQC IT

Secondly, I want to ask if anyone can help with the schematic drawing for hybrid inverter connection. I am not an expert but I try to read up, and from my readings, it seems that the connection of solar hybrid inverter is different from the normal solar-inverter connection. -------ALMOST SAME.. JUST THAT IT HAS ANOTHER NEG & POS TERMINAL FOR THE SOLAR PANELS INPUT, THEN THE STANDARD NEG& POSITIVE TERMINAL FOR BATTERY

Thirdly, I assume I don't need a charge controller if I am using a hybrid inverter...please help clarify. ....YES

Lastly, what is the recommended cable size and type for connection from the panels to the inverter....this is so that if I don't get a recommended installer, I can at least monitor the one I can manage to get to ensure a good connection.---THIS IS A FACTOR OF DISTANCE, THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN THRASHED A MILLION TIMES HERE, AND LINKS POSTED TO CROSSCHECK YOUR CABLE REQUIREMENT

Chief, did you mean to write that a hybrid inverter differs from charge controllers because it has connection for PHCN/Generator?

Thanks.