ceaser:


For the LiFePO4, number 5. GEL European Boost (14.4) Float (13 point 8 volts), I will suggest.

This with bms or without bms

Cc ojeysky

ceaser:


Got it for 130k at a walk in shop. Although I later saw it on Konga and Jumia dem for 107k or thereabout, but I think I'm more comfortable with the walk in shop in case item gives issue during warranty period. Besides it has been my go to store for appliances.

You'll be careful with the remote control though. It is thin and it broke in half when one of the kids mistakenly knelt on it while it was on the bed. The "volume up" button stopped working but I still use the phone app for full control for now while waiting for replacement remote from the store.

Also the android app version is kit kat, I think. Then I have had to do a full TV reset twice since one month use. It seems the ROM is low, so after a while of use, the "source" option (TV, DLNA, AV, HDMI) will not display and only the TV reinstall/reset restores normalcy.

Another downside is that it has no CI card, as much as I would love it to have that. But it was a good choice I made after having a bitter experience with one seller at the NL TV section who sent me one disappointing LG product which showed signs that it has been opened and worked on (repaired). I hope that would be the only time I would have to consider used TVs from Alaba.

But I have to agree, the screen pictures are beautiful and images come out with very punchy colours that threaten to rival my Hisense and LG. That's even for the fact that the TV (43 inch) is HDTV. I understand that the 55 inch (or is it 60 inch now) is UHD.

Also the bevel are so thin, lovely thin with an almost edge to edge screen expanse. Only the lower edge where the product name is has about 5cm bevel.

It also has Bluetooth on board which claims to connect to many BT hardwares including keyboards and mouse. I connect to my earphone, one of the reasons I went with that Alaba TV source in the first instance. It's for the bedroom and I wouldn't love to intrude wifey's sleep while watching TV.

buying second hand-remodify (most of the time) TV is like crossing the express(8-lanes) blindly

earthrealm:


This with bms or without bms

Cc ojeysky

I will do max 27v/26.8v bulk/float without BMS

ojeysky:
BMV 712 with 500A shunt, aux cable, long comms cable, temp sensor - 125k

12.8v 280AH LFP pack with 40A utility charger - 350k

Bus bars, 7s to 16s ANT BMS, 4s smart BMS, balancers(4s, 8s, 16s)

080-three 5-23-3535

Still available

eleojo23:


How and where can one get a CI card (CAM) in Nigeria? I'm really interested. Multichoice doesn't seem to have it according to info from their cc rep.

Multichoice will very unlikely offer you a CI card cos it may eventually backfire on 'em. It is an easy way to bypass their subscription for those that know their ways.

You can get it from those guys that install subscription TVs like Startimes and DSTV. They will also help you set it up including the dish direction placement and every other stuff about it.

ceaser:


Multichoice will very unlikely offer you a CI card cos it may eventually backfire on 'em. It is an easy way to bypass their subscription for those that know their ways.

You can get it from those guys that install subscription TVs like Startimes and DSTV. They will also help you set it up including the dish direction placement and every other stuff about it.

Okay, I'll explore this option. Thanks.

Oshomo12:


buying second hand-remodify (most of the time) TV is like crossing the express(8-lanes) blindly

My brother, I no know nau. European TVs are usually spec'd much better and with superior quality than their African counterpart even for the same manufacturer and model number. So I wanted that high spec'd device too. I thought it will be a fair experience like buying tokunbo vehicles. I no know say na express my masquerade dey go.

eleojo23:


Most of the LG products in the market are fake. If you do a check, you won't find the model on LG's official website. I nearly wasted money (50k) on the LG32Lk50 sold everywhere but decided to check it online only to see that it's available only on Nigerian sites not even on LG's site. I discovered it's actually an imitation of the original LG32LK500BPTA which is more expensive.
I decided to use the same amount to get a non-smart 32" TCL Digital TV and I'm loving it. Sharp HD picture, backlight adjustment 0-10, auto-volume, 4 ECO modes and digital TV channels (mostly scrambled though, needs a CI card to unscramble).

Consumption is 50w at full blast but with the ECO mode set to "High" and backlight setting at 1, I could tell it consumes about 30w or less because of the slow rate of voltage drop on my inverter battery. I'll get a wattmeter to confirm soon.

If one will be constrained to get tokunbo TVs from Alaba, then maybe it'll be wise to choose products such as Sony, Toshiba et al which have slim chances of adulteration. The LGs and the Samsung's to a lesser extent seem to be an easy clone for those Alaba TV merchants.

I was expecting something that will be as mint as tokunbo cars that we buy here but was shocked when I was confronted with multiply scratched case, torn label and changed label that the model written on it has no semblance to the model number I ordered for. It was when I switched on the TV that I now saw the correct model number. I mean it's as if a wrong engine was placed in a different chassis altogether.

Time to operate it and both You tube and Netflix started acting up with blurred video images and with muddled colour gamut when using both application. Same problem applies to phone to screen mirroring. It didn't last 24hrs on my TV shelf before I had it shipped back to the vendor who in his best sense felt he would return money short of 30k.

I no even get strength for arguement. Na me dey look for European spec TV when I could have jéjéli manage the mediocre but brand new Subsaharan Africa-Nigeria specs that is usually dumped here.

Abeg make I no detail this thread jàre.

ceaser:


My brother, I no know nau. European TVs are usually spec'd much better and with superior quality than their African counterpart even for the same manufacturer and model number. So I wanted that high spec'd device too. I thought it will be a fair experience like buying tokunbo vehicles. I no know say na express my masquerade dey go. While sorry for dat experience but u can still get good product clean tokunbo tv as clean as new one from der two dat is where my office is one tin with dis guys is if u no know den dey go cut ur head same with computer village dat is lagos for u



If one will be constrained to get tokunbo TVs from Alaba, then maybe it'll be wise to choose products such as Sony, Toshiba et al which have slim chances of adulteration. The LGs and the Samsung's to a lesser extent seem to be an easy clone for those Alaba TV merchants.

I was expecting something that will be as mint as tokunbo cars that we buy here but was shocked when I was confronted with multiply scratched case, torn label and changed label that the model written on it has no semblance to the model number I ordered for. It was when I switched on the TV that I now saw the correct model number. I mean it's as if a wrong engine was placed in a different chassis altogether.

Time to operate it and both You tube and Netflix started acting up with blurred video images and with muddled colour gamut when using both application. Same problem applies to phone to screen mirroring. It didn't last 24hrs on my TV shelf before I had it shipped back to the vendor who in his best sense felt he would return money short of 30k.

I no even get strength for arguement. Na me dey look for European spec TV when I could have jéjéli manage the mediocre but brand new Subsaharan Africa-Nigeria specs that is usually dumped here.

Abeg make I no detail this thread jàre.

u can still get good clean tokunbo tv as clean as new one
Dat is where my office is most of u Don't understand alaba guys major of all d electronics N electricals u use are from der so dey most be bad once too dat is Nigeria for u and lagos too same as computer village too
So na u wey no know ground na u find dem ��

28 days uptime boss. What flavor of Raspbian are you using? That seems like some impressive stability.

In my case the Python scripts I run (6 times per minute) sometimes hog ram and the system freezes up - I have a separate background script that reads free memory and reboots the Pi if it falls below a threshold so SSH and other services can stay running.

I use all Raspberry Pi 3B+s running either EmonPi or NOOBs

litaninja:

Uptime before shutting down to integrate new sonoff pow R2 for power cabinet.
Now the fans are temperature controlled, taking temprature from the MPPSolar heatsink sensor for now.
Might add a standalone temperature sensor later

You can easily flash new firmware onto the inverter that avoids this bug entirely.

You can also send commands over serial that may achieve thesame result.

I recently had a Steca 5kva go out of calibration with its voltage readings. I simply recalibrated it by sending commands over serial.

ojeysky:
This is for folks like me who are using axpert variants for their lithium batteries that experience a well known early float bug. The work around for this is to set bulk and float at the same voltage e.g 28v which is a high voltage to float lithium. In my case before now, I just manage with 27.4v float and wait it out until the battery get full. However with solpiplog running on my pi and BMV in the mix, I am now able to automate that as follows:

@>91% SOC set float at 27v
@<90% SOC set float at 28v

That way the optimal juice from my panels goes into my LFP. So if you have a way to achieve the above you will be able to work around the float bug.
Renewable energy is both the present and future!

Have a good week ahead!

inverter repairer in Asaba, please contact number in signature

Is there any vendor here with this samples? DM dealership price. Thank you..Treat as urgent.. Sample attached is 60W

SuleimanKano:
Is there any vendor here with this samples? DM dealership price. Thank you..Treat as urgent..

Available 75k negotiable

Call -08117398294
Chat - http:///2348117398294

I am running Pi 4Bs 4GB running Raspbian 10 Buster. Just direct installs via imager without NOOBs.
6 times per minute? Hmmm, does that give the scripts enough time to run, terminate & return resources properly to the system? As most *nix are quite stable and are expected to go months/years without a reboot.

Also, the monitoring package I'm using is sitting on docker, that would help stability as well.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
28 days uptime boss. What flavor of Raspbian are you using? That seems like some impressive stability.

In my case the Python scripts I run (6 times per minute) sometimes hog ram and the system freezes up - I have a separate background script that reads free memory and reboots the Pi if it falls below a threshold so SSH and other services can stay running.

I use all Raspberry Pi 3B+s running either EmonPi or NOOBs

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You can easily flash new firmware onto the inverter that avoids this bug entirely.

Right if there is such firmware that has the bug fixed, for those using the MPP MK series there is a custom firmware for that. However i use the GK series and for other clones like felicity and co there isn't an appropriate firmware (or I have not seen one)

You can also send commands over serial that may achieve thesame result.

I recently had a Steca 5kva go out of calibration with its voltage readings. I simply recalibrated it by sending commands over serial.

Yeah one can do that as well and then put a Cron to automate the process. Using solpiplog is hassle free for me since I already hervest my data through it anyway.

ojeysky:
Anyone interested in this 12v 280AH bundle package should reach out to me:

Here is what you get:
- 4x280AH cells
- Adjustable 2-40A, 11-16v lithium charger
- 35A smart BMS with Bluetooth monitoring
- Connection bus bars (3 pieces)
- 4s balancer

Price 350k

Fwiw, it's some of the cells that I use personally and I have not confirmed actual capacity.

WhatsApp 0 8 zero three five 2 3 3535

Where are the LFP people

You are basically substituting external control from a Raspberry Pi for a function the inverter should natively perform. I fear for the stability of such a system if the Pi fails or randomly loses comms with the inverter.

In the Victron world, the GX (essentially a commercial grade Raspberry Pi [Beaglebone] with two failsafe partitions) is also an external control mechanism. The difference is that the GXes are battle tested to be super stable (reliable comms, recovery scripts and 2 working partitions) and also Victron forces you to properly configure the MPPTs and inverters that the GX will control, if the GX goes offline, the MPPTs stop charging and inverter switches off too. You would have to manually factory reset the MPPTs and disconnect the inverter from GX and switch it on for charging to resume without a GX. This guarantees industrial grade system stability.

On a side note I just snuck in another 4 bricks to get to 48v 1000Ah/48Kwh energy stored - now the BMS is asking for 500A charge current at 52.8v and I have not the PV capacity to feed the beast

ojeysky:


Yeah one can do that as well and then put a Cron to automate the process. Using solpiplog is hassle free for me since I already hervest my data through it anyway.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You are basically substituting external control from a Raspberry Pi for a function the inverter should natively perform. I fear for the stability of such a system if the Pi fails or randomly loses comms with the inverter.

In the Victron world, the GX (essentially a commercial grade Raspberry Pi [Beaglebone] with two failsafe partitions) is also an external control mechanism. The difference is that the GXes are battle tested to be super stable (reliable comms, recovery scripts and 2 working partitions) and also Victron forces you to properly configure the MPPTs and inverters that the GX will control, if the GX goes offline, the MPPTs stop charging and inverter switches off too. You would have to manually factory reset the MPPTs and disconnect the inverter from GX and switch it on for charging to resume without a GX. This guarantees industrial grade system stability.

On a side note I just snuck in another 4 bricks to get to 48v 1200Ah/57.6Kwh energy stored - now the BMS is asking for 600A charge current at 52.8v and I have not the PV capacity to feed the beast

Actually noting spoils if the pi losses connection to the inverter though that hardly happens unless the pi is switched off, but in that case the last set float voltage is maintained. The pi does various other automation on my house gadgets as well but I make sure it's resource is not stressed. There is still the battery BMS in-between that keeps things in check.

However, I certainly believe the victrons will expectedly perform better, let's just say this is my own way of maintaining certain level of performance at a fraction of cost.

1200Ah/48v LFP is something else o..... You've become a mini grid o. My 560AH/24v is already more than enough for my needs

earthrealm:


Care to throw more light, as i had a different opinion as well, till i saw the trojan batt writeup.

bro,
firstly, we all know that c rating (as regards battery capacity) is the safest maximum continuous discharge rate the battery
will support.
a carefully calibrated load is applied until the voltage gradually depletes to 1.75v/cell (lead acid) or 1.0v/cell (nicd/nimh)
and 3.0v/cell (for li-ion}
having said that, while i wouldn't want to pick holes in trojan's claims, i do understand that battery c ratings and capacity
are not cast in stone.
for instance take the case of two batteries with 200ah c10 and 200ah c20 respectively. the first battery with a capacity and
rating of 200ah c10 may turn out to be actually 250ah when discharged at c20 depending on battery chemistry and quality
of materials used to produce it while at c100 it could go higher to 320ah in capacity as an example.
i do see most of our sellers here bandying all sorts of batteries for sale. they put out a lot of info but leave out the most
relevant which is the c rating of the battery. i guess they are either ignorant themselves or perhaps they are feeding fat on
the ignorance of potential customers. if i buy a c100 rated 200ah battery unknowingly thinking it is c20, i'm invariably
buying a 170ah battery. no wonder many peeps here keep complaining of dead battery after just a few months of usage.

When your base load is 3kw to 4kw overnight. 48v 1200Ah doesn't really go very far....

For your price vs performance tradeoff argument, I used to be a staunch advocate of value products e.g I used MustPower inverters for nearly 4 years. At some point my paradigm changed. When you reach that place you will know as well

ojeysky:


Actually noting spoils if the pi losses connection to the inverter though that hardly happens unless the pi is switched off, but in that case the last set float voltage is maintained. The pi does various other automation on my house gadgets as well but I make sure it's resource is not stressed. There is still the battery BMS in-between that keeps things in check.

However, I certainly believe the victrons will expectedly perform better, let's just say this is my own way of maintaining certain level of performance at a fraction of cost.

1200Ah/48v LFP is something else o..... You've become a mini grid o. My 560AH/24v is already more than enough for my needs

WE BUY DEAD/SCRAP BATTERIES!!!

We also buy off scrap/dead deep cycle batteries from any state to Lagos(T&C applies) .

12v 200a ..... N15,000
12v 150a.......N11,000
12v 100a.......N7,500
2v 500a.......N5,500

If outside Lagos state , send the scrap batteries to your nearby Lagos park & get your payment alert immediately after confirmatory remarks from me with the transport company manager / secretary or driver .

Contact,
Smartcell global services
CALL:: 081-350-31951
WHATSAPP::: https:///2348170385620

GeorgeD1:


bro,
firstly, we all know that c rating (as regards battery capacity) is the safest maximum continuous discharge rate the battery
will support.
a carefully calibrated load is applied until the voltage gradually depletes to 1.75v/cell (lead acid) or 1.0v/cell (nicd/nimh)
and 3.0v/cell (for li-ion}
having said that, while i wouldn't want to pick holes in trojan's claims, i do understand that battery c ratings and capacity
are not cast in stone.
for instance take the case of two batteries with 200ah c10 and 200ah c20 respectively. the first battery with a capacity and
rating of 200ah c10 may turn out to be actually 250ah when discharged at c20 depending on battery chemistry and quality
of materials used to produce it while at c100 it could go higher to 320ah in capacity as an example.
i do see most of our sellers here bandying all sorts of batteries for sale. they put out a lot of info but leave out the most
relevant which is the c rating of the battery. i guess they are either ignorant themselves or perhaps they are feeding fat on
the ignorance of potential customers. if i buy a c100 rated 200ah battery unknowingly thinking it is c20, i'm invariably
buying a 170ah battery. no wonder many peeps here keep complaining of dead battery after just a few months of usage.

@the bold
Did you really mean C100 or you meant to type C10?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You are basically substituting external control from a Raspberry Pi for a function the inverter should natively perform. I fear for the stability of such a system if the Pi fails or randomly loses comms with the inverter.

In the Victron world, the GX (essentially a commercial grade Raspberry Pi [Beaglebone] with two failsafe partitions) is also an external control mechanism. The difference is that the GXes are battle tested to be super stable (reliable comms, recovery scripts and 2 working partitions) and also Victron forces you to properly configure the MPPTs and inverters that the GX will control, if the GX goes offline, the MPPTs stop charging and inverter switches off too. You would have to manually factory reset the MPPTs and disconnect the inverter from GX and switch it on for charging to resume without a GX. This guarantees industrial grade system stability.

On a side note I just snuck in another 4 bricks to get to 48v 1200Ah/57.6Kwh energy stored - now the BMS is asking for 600A charge current at 52.8v and I have not the PV capacity to feed the beast

I will love to see how well your array will perform with this new battery capacity. For me, I will stick with that 19kw array, to get value for money on the panels. I want to believe you have just matched the array with ur new capacity. Before, it was an underused array system.
This is my take o. Further expansion of array might be a waste.

ojeysky:


1200Ah/48v LFP is something else o..... You've become a mini grid o. My 560AH/24v is already more than enough for my needs

Abeg which appliances subsist on your 24/560 that it will be more than enough? 24 hrs running appliances? Air conditioners? Cos me I doubt if that capacity will satiate me o.

As for Ògá Niyi, his case is what one says "àfi sùúrù" to. Well make I just no talk much because me too I hope to one day accumulate half that much storage if not as much.

Abeg make nobody shout "sòròsókè werey" o

SuleimanKano:
Is there any vendor here with this samples? DM dealership price. Thank you..Treat as urgent.. Sample attached is 60W

available 70k
WhatsApp 08028074483

Penuelseun:
You are going to need at least 4pcs of those batteries to connect to a 12v inverter, higher if going for 24v or 48v systems, also by the time you factor in the cost of importation and customs duties. You will realize that it is not cheap

What's the difference between 12v, 24v and 48v?

GeorgeD1:


bro,
firstly, we all know that c rating (as regards battery capacity) is the safest maximum continuous discharge rate the battery
will support.
a carefully calibrated load is applied until the voltage gradually depletes to 1.75v/cell (lead acid) or 1.0v/cell (nicd/nimh)
and 3.0v/cell (for li-ion}
having said that, while i wouldn't want to pick holes in trojan's claims, i do understand that battery c ratings and capacity
are not cast in stone.
for instance take the case of two batteries with 200ah c10 and 200ah c20 respectively. the first battery with a capacity and
rating of 200ah c10 may turn out to be actually 250ah when discharged at c20 depending on battery chemistry and quality
of materials used to produce it while at c100 it could go higher to 320ah in capacity as an example.
i do see most of our sellers here bandying all sorts of batteries for sale. they put out a lot of info but leave out the most
relevant which is the c rating of the battery. i guess they are either ignorant themselves or perhaps they are feeding fat on
the ignorance of potential customers. if i buy a c100 rated 200ah battery unknowingly thinking it is c20, i'm invariably
buying a 170ah battery. no wonder many peeps here keep complaining of dead battery after just a few months of usage.

You are 101% correct...the same way lithium chemistry battery sellers quote capacity of battery in mAh and deftly hide the working voltage of the system...

ceaser:


Abeg which appliances subsist on your 24/560 that it will be more than enough? 24 hrs running appliances? Air conditioners? Cos me I doubt if that capacity will satiate me o.

As for Ògá Niyi, his case is what one says "àfi sùúrù" to. Well make I just no talk much because me too I hope to one day accumulate half that much storage if not as much.

Abeg make nobody shout "sòròsókè werey" o

Certainly not with a 24hrs AC haba but as I don't use them 24hrs and since I still have utility 14kw is enough backup for me for now o else what happened in 1960 go repeat itself

generationz:


What's the difference between 12v, 24v and 48v?

Nominal battery voltages that most DC systems are built around.

Trippledots:



You are 101% correct...the same way lithium chemistry battery sellers quote capacity of battery in mAh and deftly hide the working voltage of the system...

Hmm that's a new one, you may want to provide further explanation is it possible for instance to sell a 48v as 24v? That will be obvious to the buyer isn't it

eleojo23:


@the bold
Did you really mean C100 or you meant to type C10?

yep bro. that isn't a typo. i meant exactly c100 as against c20.
if it was a c10 being sold off as a c20 battery, of course the customer would be the one at an advantage.
curiously, same trojan has a c100 battery with glowing capacity rating and non-savvy peeps might be tempted
to rush it thinking it is a good bargain. not so at all.

ojeysky:


Hmm that's a new one, you may want to provide further explanation is it possible for instance to sell a 48v as 24v? That will be obvious to the buyer isn't it

Obvious to a keen eye oh.

Take for instance, I couple 18650 cells to give a 12v battery and advertise the sum of the cell's Ahr capacity. That advertised Ahr is false with regards to the coupled battery's voltage. Do you get?

It's mostly common with combo packs where they sell inverter and battery packs, or battery with DC-DC converters to charge devices and run some DC loads.

I almost fell for it when I was shopping on AE for battery banks.