ojeysky:


First, your load matters most but with that inverter capacity, 750w panel is too small. I will suggest you change your inverter to 1.5kva max or increase your panel size

Thanks for your response. Pls do u know the exact watts solar panel I will need for the 3.5kva. Is the quoted battery capacity ok for out put. Thanks once again.

odimbannamdi:




My Oga, do you refer to our newly purchased Luminous tubular batteries?

Lol. No. The Luminous tubular batteries are doing very fine.

This is Quanta. Using it at another location.

Monlo:


I have a good used 12volts 200AH Luminous ba3 available,if interested.....
Zero-8054488-three-18

I can't use two different battery brands due to chemistry. I'm in need of 200Ah Quanta. Thanks.

Hello house

Upgraded (4 units 2000US Pylontech, Victron Multiplus-II 48v, and Victron BlueSolar 250/60) and now have my previous system up for sale:

- 4 units Trojan AGM 205AH (commissioned 02/09/2019)
- 2 units Victron BlueSolar charge controller MPPT 100 | 50 - SOLD
- 2 units Victron energy battery balancer - SOLD
- 1 unit Victron energy MultiPlus 24v | 3kva | 70amp - SOLD

a4cube:
Thanks for your response. Pls do u know the exact watts solar panel I will need for the 3.5kva. Is the quoted battery capacity ok for out put. Thanks once again.

Why did you decide to use 3.5kva? I assume it's due to your planned load?

DADAL:
Hello house

Upgraded (4 units 2000US Pylontech, Victron Multiplus-II 48v, and Victron BlueSolar 250/60) and now have my previous system up for sale:

- 4 units Trojan AGM 205AH (commissioned 02/09/2019)
- 2 units Victron BlueSolar charge controller MPPT 100 | 50
- 2 units Victron energy battery balancer
- 1 unit Victron energy MultiPlus 24v | 3kva | 70amp

Call or WhatsApp on 0814 459 3191

How much are the batteries?I know the charge controllers will cost an arm and leg

omotoda:


How much are the batteries?I know the charge controllers will cost an arm and leg

The controllers wouldn’t cost you an arm and leg. If you’re on the market for a controller, make me an offer.

95k for the battery, if you are buying more than one (and I will add a Victron balancer for free). The batteries had only been cycled 13 times (never gone below 70%), and they’re as good as new.

Who has ever used this battery box before? How did you do the connection?

Hello house, please can I use 3.5kva pure sine wave inverter for deep freezer

abbeymighty:
Hello house, please can I use 3.5kva pure sine wave inverter for deep freezer

Of course you can, a typical freezer needs max 300w and that is the power guzzlers and if it surge it could do at X3 to x5 where X is running consumption is still well within your capacity

DADAL:
Hello house

Upgraded (4 units 2000US Pylontech, Victron Multiplus-II 48v, and Victron BlueSolar 250/60) and now have my previous system up for sale:

- 4 units Trojan AGM 205AH (commissioned 02/09/2019)
- 2 units Victron BlueSolar charge controller MPPT 100 | 50
- 2 units Victron energy battery balancer
- 1 unit Victron energy MultiPlus 24v | 3kva | 70amp

Call or WhatsApp on 0814 459 3191

More lithium in the building, enjoy your investment

earthrealm:


I Believe it, should work. 6mm would do fine for a single panel. or reconfirm this on the dc voltage drop website link

Good morning boss man.
Abeg draft that your graph for series parrarel connection mix.
(I just got a 4th panel), thanks
Please.

ojeysky:


More lithium in the building, enjoy your investment

Thanks

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Smart solar charging is a 'demand pull' application. Given optimal conditions, a 300w solar panel may be able to produce 230w but only produce say 30w while the battery is float charging and no loads on. Turn on a 200w load as additional demand and the CC will soon ask the panel to release 200w extra if it is available.

If there is sufficiently large load and/or battery charging demand, the panel will produce its maximum capacity for that given ambient, tilt and solar irradiation condition. Reduce the loads and/or battery charging demand and you will see the solar production drop too.

Simply, solar energy cannot just be created in a vacuum, there must be a load (house equipment or battery) requesting and consuming that energy.

Thanks boss.

I love the way you always give in-depth analysis.

AGM battery life cycle are just 1yr and few month dont be fool by the brand name all are same

TBrownAuto:
AGM battery life cycle are just 1yr and few month dont be fool by the brand name all are same

Not necessarily true.I have 3 units of 105ah Ritar batteries that I have been using for over 3 years.They are hooked to solar panels and I ensure they are not discharged beyond 70%.They are still going strong. The problem with most people is the very moment they have inverter they see it as the end to all their power issues forgetting that if you need to discharge your batteries below recommended/acceptable DOD then you need to increase your battery bank size accordingly

ojeysky:


Why did you decide to use 3.5kva? I assume it's due to your planned load?

Boss, are you a solar installer? Can u quote for 3.5kva. I have 330w 4 pcs solar panel already. Thanks.

a4cube:
Boss, are you a solar installer? Can u quote for 3.5kva. I have 330w 4 pcs solar panel already. Thanks.

No am not but what is your need, you want to power 3.5kva load? For how many hours?

No, they are not brand new.

They were soldered.

ceaser:


✓ Are they brand new 18/65/0 cells?

✓ Soldered or spot welded?

Pls what is work and advantage of battery balancer and equalisation? Please urgent response

SOMEBODY HELP!!!

Is there anyone here who has used or install Eastman Tubular Batteries?
I bought one 2 weeks ago and this is my experience.

After being fully charged, battery drains from 12.9v to 12.2 in just 10 minutes with less than 200watts load on it.
Then from 12.2, it now drains normally till 11.0 which might last for 5+ hours with same load before inverter will alarm for low battery but I always switch it off when it's 11.6v

After lodging the complain to the seller, i was requested to bring the battery to their service centre, I did and It was delayed for 7 days leaving me stranded 'cos i sold the previous battery off as scrap same day i bought this. I got the battery back 3pm this afternoon and upon installing, same thing happened again.

I called their chief engineer to complain and here is his response.

"Check the backup time how many hours is going, Forget please battery voltage, Check the battery backup time"

which I responded with "Really? Since when has voltage become irrelevant in batteries?, because it will be foolish to keep discharging a battery to 10.5v as told by this so called chief engineer"

So before I take this further, I need to hear from others if they have experienced a thing as this.
mind you i'm using a Genus 875va inverter and the inverter is working fine, even the previous battery i replaced didn't jump voltage till it died.
Thank you.

Please house, I hope this will be treated as urgent.

Is there a possibility that house wiring can slowly but surely cause an inverter to fail?

The house uses generator power without issues. The house is not connected to grid power and has never used same before.

A new 24/1.8kw inverter installed failed on the 3rd day (refuses to come on). I came thru and loaned the guy my standby 800w inverter as stop gap while he sorts himself out. I instructed that it not be loaded beyond capacity cos it's lower than theirs that had fault. They claimed to have followed the instructions. It has worked fine for 4 days. The loads on it had been max 120 watts, no surge draws cos they stayed away from powering freezer or refrigerator. But I was called tonight that the inverter too would not power on.

I still wanna believe that the issue with the second inverter is minor and I hold that believe until I'm able to get there to see things for myself.

Is there a form of house wiring that could slowly kill inverters?

Thanks.

A dead short in the wiring or breaks in the insulation allowing live and neutral to touch could cause this.

Sometimes also, fence lights or external lights getting wet from rain cause such occasional shorts.

If you can install an amp limiter between the inverter and loads, constant tripping of the amp limiter will tell you if any shorts or surges are happening. For the tiny loads you have, you would need an electronic current limiter to set a precise enough limit.

There could also be issues from lightning (not likely based on what you described) or even voltage spikes from a poorly regulated generator.

Many things really up to and including a load e.g. iron that has been inadvertently placed on the inverter - you would have to run thorough diagnostics to identify cause of failure.

Installing an electronic amp limit between inverter and loads will both protect the inverter and bring you far closer to the root cause of error.

ceaser:
Please house, I hope this will be treated as urgent.

Is there a possibility that house wiring can slowly but surely cause an inverter to fail?

The house uses generator power without issues. The house is not connected to grid power and has never used same before.

A new 24/1.8kw inverter installed failed on the 3rd day (refuses to come on). I came thru and loaned the guy my standby 800w inverter as stop gap while he sorts himself out. I instructed that it not be loaded beyond capacity cos it's lower than theirs that had fault. They claimed to have followed the instructions. It has worked fine for 4 days. The loads on it had been max 120 watts, no surge draws cos they stayed away from powering freezer or refrigerator. But I was called tonight that the inverter too would not power on.

I still wanna believe that the issue with the second inverter is minor and I hold that believe until I'm able to get there to see things for myself.

Is there a form of house wiring that could slowly kill inverters?

Thanks.

ojeysky:


No am not but what is your need, you want to power 3.5kva load? For how many hours?

No specific hours bro. Just want it to power my house when ever their is power failure.

viperVIP:
SOMEBODY HELP!!!

Is there anyone here who has used or install Eastman Tubular Batteries?
I bought one 2 weeks ago and this is my experience.

After being fully charged, battery drains from 12.9v to 12.2 in just 10 minutes with less than 200watts load on it.
Then from 12.2, it now drains normally till 11.0 which might last for 5+ hours with same load before inverter will alarm for low battery but I always switch it off when it's 11.6v

After lodging the complain to the seller, i was requested to bring the battery to their service centre, I did and It was delayed for 7 days leaving me stranded 'cos i sold the previous battery off as scrap same day i bought this. I got the battery back 3pm this afternoon and upon installing, same thing happened again.

I called their chief engineer to complain and here is his response.

"Check the backup time how many hours is going, Forget please battery voltage, Check the battery backup time"

which I responded with "Really? Since when has voltage become irrelevant in batteries?, because it will be foolish to keep discharging a battery to 10.5v as told by this so called chief engineer"

So before I take this further, I need to hear from others if they have experienced a thing as this.
mind you i'm using a Genus 875va inverter and the inverter is working fine, even the previous battery i replaced didn't jump voltage till it died.
Thank you.

I also experience same, I bought 2 ride plus tubular, no mater the voltage it is once there is no charging input, it will drop to 25.2 withing short period of time after which it will take time before starting to stop depend on the load. I need guru in the house to enlighten us

My gut feeling is that your Genus 875va inverter is grossly incapable of properly charging a flooded battery.

The inverter will top out at max 14.2v to 14.4v per 12v nominal whereas flooded batteries typically need 14.6v minimum and even 14.8v for a proper charge.

Confirm what absorb voltage your inverter is taking the batteries to then proceed to step 2 if above 14.6v


Get an hydrometer and measure the specific gravity of your electrolyte when battery is fully charged and perhaps even equalized. If below 1.28, it is possible the factory got the electrolyte mix wrong - I have seen this happen with Luminous flooded batteries and I had to send them back to be emptied and refilled with proper mix.

More likely your inverter simply cannot charge the battery properly. If this is true, incorporating an el-cheapo smart charger like Souer to charge in parallel is your best bet.

viperVIP:
SOMEBODY HELP!!!

Is there anyone here who has used or install Eastman Tubular Batteries?
I bought one 2 weeks ago and this is my experience.

After being fully charged, battery drains from 12.9v to 12.2 in just 10 minutes with less than 200watts load on it.
Then from 12.2, it now drains normally till 11.0 which might last for 5+ hours with same load before inverter will alarm for low battery but I always switch it off when it's 11.6v

After lodging the complain to the seller, i was requested to bring the battery to their service centre, I did and It was delayed for 7 days leaving me stranded 'cos i sold the previous battery off as scrap same day i bought this. I got the battery back 3pm this afternoon and upon installing, same thing happened again.

I called their chief engineer to complain and here is his response.

"Check the backup time how many hours is going, Forget please battery voltage, Check the battery backup time"

which I responded with "Really? Since when has voltage become irrelevant in batteries?, because it will be foolish to keep discharging a battery to 10.5v as told by this so called chief engineer"

So before I take this further, I need to hear from others if they have experienced a thing as this.
mind you i'm using a Genus 875va inverter and the inverter is working fine, even the previous battery i replaced didn't jump voltage till it died.
Thank you.

a4cube:
No specific hours bro. Just want it to power my house when ever their is power failure.

State the appliances you want to power and for how long do you want them to run individually. That will help in giving you an estimate

@NiyiOmoIyunade

Thank you for your response.
it is just one battery.
I will confirm the max voltage tomorrow.
Whereas there is a Suoer 40a Battery Charger connected to the battery already.

Concerning the hydrometer, I'll do that tomorrow as well.

a4cube:
No specific hours bro. Just want it to power my house when ever their is power failure.

My brother when it comes to planning for renewable energy, your needs has to be clearly stated o.... Before I go and advice you on what won't meet your expectation. However I will give you an idea. Assuming you need 10hrs backup time daily outside of sun hours and you have a load of 300w. That will be 3.6kw (assuming we factor in .8 Inverter efficiency) and that's 150AH @24v.

- Lead acid 200AH x 4 (so you maintain 40% DOD) or 200AH lithium
- 300w X 2 (add to the 4 you currently have)
- 60A charge controller

Note that the above is in consideration that you have utility to charge the battery as well otherwise you will need to increase your panels if your utility is not relatively constant.

@Niyiomolyunade, for mine, am using mercury 2.4kva inverter also 2*300watts solar panel with 40ams CC, a times when the sum is shinning very the voltage will uptill 29v upward but most times it stsus at 27.6v but immidiatly theirs is no charging it will started dropping until it reaches 25.3 before it will now start gradual droping depend on the loads.is it normal?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
My gut feeling is that your Genus 875va inverter is grossly incapable of properly charging a flooded battery.

The inverter will top out at max 14.2v to 14.4v per 12v nominal whereas flooded batteries typically need 14.6v minimum and even 14.8v for a proper charge.

Confirm what absorb voltage your inverter is taking the batteries to then proceed to step 2 if above 14.6v


Get an hydrometer and measure the specific gravity of your electrolyte when battery is fully charged and perhaps even equalized. If below 1.28, it is possible the factory got the electrolyte mix wrong - I have seen this happen with Luminous flooded batteries and I had to send them back to be emptied and refilled with proper mix.

More likely your inverter simply cannot charge the battery properly. If this is true, incorporating an el-cheapo smart charger like Souer to charge in parallel is your best bet.

Tolutopsy:
Anyone has a used 10kva/12kva central stabilizer that picks from 80v or even lower sef?

A&edunamis servo picks from 80v have used both 10 and 15kva.. its reliable

NiyiOmoIyunade:
A dead short in the wiring or breaks in the insulation allowing live and neutral to touch could cause this.

Sometimes also, fence lights or external lights getting wet from rain cause such occasional shorts.

If you can install an amp limiter between the inverter and loads, constant tripping of the amp limiter will tell you if any shorts or surges are happening. For the tiny loads you have, you would need an electronic current limiter to set a precise enough limit.

There could also be issues from lightning (not likely based on what you described) or even voltage spikes from a poorly regulated generator.

Many things really up to and including a load e.g. iron that has been inadvertently placed on the inverter - you would have to run thorough diagnostics to identify cause of failure.

Installing an electronic amp limit between inverter and loads will both protect the inverter and bring you far closer to the root cause of error.

Hmmm. Okay, when I tried to fix the second inverter, I inadvertently touched the positive pole of the battery terminal while the inverter was working (had my feet on the bare floor) and I sensed an electric shock. Could that suggest a live-neutral short?

How does one get an electronic amp limiter?

In cases of confirmed short, is there a way that can be finally corrected that the continued use of the limiter will not be necessary?