earthrealm:


A&edunamis servo picks from 80v have used both 10 and 15kva.. its reliable

Anyone available for sale?

abbeymighty:
I also experience same, I bought 2 ride plus tubular, no mater the voltage it is once there is no charging input, it will drop to 25.2 withing short period of time after which it will take time before starting to stop depend on the load. I need guru in the house to enlighten us

Thats the typical behaviour of flooded batts.
Its more pronounced when they are relatively new.

ceaser:


Hmmm. Okay, when I tried to fix the second inverter, I inadvertently touched the positive pole of the battery terminal while the inverter was working (had my feet on the bare floor) and I sensed an electric shock. Could that suggest a live-neutral short?

How does one get an electronic amp limiter?

In cases of confirmed short, is there a way that can be finally corrected that the continued use of the limiter will not be necessary?

If you can trace the short and remove it that will be fine. A generator can handle shorts better than an inverter. Run a continuity test between the three wires (L,N and E). You can check the wires to see if there are areas (especially around joints) that the live may be making contacts with either the neutral or earth. This can also be ascertained by putting the loads off, removing both the output and input wires of the inverter and connecting it together, place a clamp meter on the wire and power on. Check for any presence of high current. If you cannot find any, then there is no short on the line.

Also there is a possibility that there is a faulty electrical equipment that introduces short to the system. You can have them power everything they ever use (including chargers for different devices) to see if any of it is the rogue equipment.

I hope there is no backfeed from the output of the inverter to the input.

The shock you got may have something to do with you being bare feet. Reason it is advised to wear a thick rubber boot while working with electricity- you gotta increase your resistance to electric current flow.

mctfopt:


If you can trace the short and remove it that will be fine. A generator can handle shorts better than an inverter. Run a continuity test between the three wires (L,N and E). You can check the wires to see if there are areas (especially around joints) that the live may be making contacts with either the neutral or earth. This can also be ascertained by putting the loads off, removing both the output and input wires of the inverter and connecting it together, place a clamp meter on the wire and power on. Check for any presence of high current. If you cannot find any, then there is no short on the line.

Also there is a possibility that there is a faulty electrical equipment that introduces short to the system. You can have them power everything they ever use (including chargers for different devices) to see if any of it is the rogue equipment.

I hope there is no backfeed from the output of the inverter to the input.

What would cause a back feed?

The shock you got may have something to do with you being bare feet. Reason it is advised to wear a thick rubber boot while working with electricity- you gotta to increase your resistance to electric current flow.

Thanks so much for this.

@ bolded, I wouldn't be sure but that suspicion was why I made that statement of electric shock when I touched the battery terminal. I'm used to working with standalone systems (that power appliances directly rather than going thru the wiring of the house, so I touch the DC terminals of those without experiencing shock.

What would cause such back feed?

I don't have access to a clamp meter, just the usual multimeter. I'll try a continuity test using that.

In the event of confirmed short which may not be easily traceable, na for the guy to follow Ògá Niyi's prescription of an amp limiter.

But inverters have short circuit protection built into 'em. Isn't that supposed to offer some sort of protection to the device itself so that it does not go kaput due to shorts?

This can also be ascertained by putting the loads off, removing both the output and input wires of the inverter and connecting it together, place a clamp meter on the wire and power on. Check for any presence of high current. If you cannot find any, then there is no short on the line.

@ bolded. I don't really get that connection described.

If you got an electric jolt while touching a battery terminal and the DC bus is running under 60v, this suggests that there is no earthing/grounding in place and/or the inverter is not connected to earth/ground.

Typically cheap inverters have poor isolation in the internal components and some current leakage occurs and can manifest as slight to severe electric jolts when you touch the metallic chassis or screws used to hold the inverter together or the battery terminals. Proper earthing usually masks the problem by giving the fault currents a lower resistance path to go to.

The electronic amp limiter is a lazy/modern/smart way to identify the problem here. JUO sells the devices and I have a few too (but targeted to protect our installations and not for direct sales).

I see that someone else has given a working guide to identify shorts by testing for continuity between L, N, E or looking for high currents in the line.

I use a different approach to get close to the problem - having ascertained that a short is indeed the root cause (observe current reading spikes on the amp limiter), we begin to switch off breakers one by one on the DB until the spikes stop or the other way round switch on breakers on the DB one at a time until the spikes start. Having isolated the portion of house wiring that feeds that problem breaker, we commence troubleshooting from there.

This method presupposes a standard installation with DB and breakers dedicated for inverter loads, if all the load wires were twisted together at the inverter output, you simply have to unbundle all and bring them back together one at a time.

ceaser:


Hmmm. Okay, when I tried to fix the second inverter, I inadvertently touched the positive pole of the battery terminal while the inverter was working (had my feet on the bare floor) and I sensed an electric shock. Could that suggest a live-neutral short?

How does one get an electronic amp limiter?

In cases of confirmed short, is there a way that can be finally corrected that the continued use of the limiter will not be necessary?

Tolutopsy:


Anyone available for sale?

i recently acquired this TBB POWER 10kva servo stablizer. its rugged and efficient.wall mountable type. 80V to 270V. it is very much affordable. u can get it below 100k.

ceaser:


Thanks so much for this.

@ bolded, I wouldn't be sure but that suspicion was why I made that statement of electric shock when I touched the battery terminal. I'm used to working with standalone systems (that power appliances directly rather than going thru the wiring of the house, so I touch the DC terminals of those without experiencing shock.

What would cause such back feed?

I don't have access to a clamp meter, just the usual multimeter. I'll try a continuity test using that.

In the event of confirmed short which may not be easily traceable, na for the guy to follow Ògá Niyi's prescription of an amp limiter.

But inverters have short circuit protection built into 'em. Isn't that supposed to offer some sort of protection to the device itself so that it does not go kaput due to shorts?



@ bolded. I don't really get that connection described.

Most backfeed is mostly from electrical connection, when the output is allowed to feed the input. Also it can be as a result of inverter failure.


The short circuit protection response time of various inverter differs, some may respond slower than others, and by then the damage is already done.

The connection I described is simply bypassing the inverter. Just connect both lives together, do same for both neutral and the earth respectively- effectively bypassing the inverter.

I'm in the market for a good smart 8s BMS for Lifepo4 batteries with active balancer of between 1A to 2A. Anyone got ideas on which brand to get? Links, screenshots, suggestions are all welcome.

Valto:
i recently acquired this TBB POWER 10kva servo stablizer. its rugged and efficient.wall mountable type. 80V to 270V. it is very much affordable. u can get it below 100k.

Where can I get one of this?

Tolutopsy:
Anyone has a used 10kva/12kva central stabilizer that picks from 80v or even lower sef?

I have a 12kva Prag relay central home stabilizer that should be able to pick that range

Valto:
80A DC circuit breaker(brand new)

63A DC circuit breaker(used)

40A AC circuit breaker (used)

HA02 48v battery balancer (used)

125A automatic transfer switch 2pole(brand new)

100A automatic transfer switch 4pole(brand new)

[s] fangupsun blue solar charge controller MPPT 50A with the display meter(used)[/s] sold

lcd battery monitor with 100A shunt (used)

digital timer switch din rail (used)

all used ones are very clean and working perfectly and for sale @affordable prices. can be easily waybilled to anywhere.
whatsapp 080-8541-5985.

My Oga, can you share pics of the lcd battery monitor with 100A shunt, as well as price? I go message your for whatsapp later though

Abdomox:


Lol. No. The Luminous tubular batteries are doing very fine.

This is Quanta. Using it at another location.

Aaaah! Fear catch me ooo...Thanks God.

Weldone bro

Monlo:


I have a good used 12volts 200AH Luminous ba3 available,if interested.....
Zero-8054488-three-18

Still available?

a4cube:
Thanks for your response. Pls do u know the exact watts solar panel I will need for the 3.5kva. Is the quoted battery capacity ok for out put. Thanks once again.

You can call/chat 08117398294 for professional installation.

viperVIP:
SOMEBODY HELP!!!

Is there anyone here who has used or install Eastman Tubular Batteries?
I bought one 2 weeks ago and this is my experience.

After being fully charged, battery drains from 12.9v to 12.2 in just 10 minutes with less than 200watts load on it.
Then from 12.2, it now drains normally till 11.0 which might last for 5+ hours with same load before inverter will alarm for low battery but I always switch it off when it's 11.6v

After lodging the complain to the seller, i was requested to bring the battery to their service centre, I did and It was delayed for 7 days leaving me stranded 'cos i sold the previous battery off as scrap same day i bought this. I got the battery back 3pm this afternoon and upon installing, same thing happened again.

I called their chief engineer to complain and here is his response.

"Check the backup time how many hours is going, Forget please battery voltage, Check the battery backup time"

which I responded with "Really? Since when has voltage become irrelevant in batteries?, because it will be foolish to keep discharging a battery to 10.5v as told by this so called chief engineer"

So before I take this further, I need to hear from others if they have experienced a thing as this.
mind you i'm using a Genus 875va inverter and the inverter is working fine, even the previous battery i replaced didn't jump voltage till it died.
Thank you.

Donblanco, please how can you assist this our guy with some advise? I know you use an 200ah Eastman tubular battery and it has been servicing you oerfectly since March this year.

Tolutopsy:


Where can I get one of this?

it is sold by AMARSHAL POWER. they sell rugged inverters too. they have office in lagos. thier sales rep number is-080-3732-3210

NiyiOmoIyunade:
A dead short in the wiring or breaks in the insulation allowing live and neutral to touch could cause this.

Sometimes also, fence lights or external lights getting wet from rain cause such occasional shorts.

If you can install an amp limiter between the inverter and loads, constant tripping of the amp limiter will tell you if any shorts or surges are happening. For the tiny loads you have, you would need an electronic current limiter to set a precise enough limit.

There could also be issues from lightning (not likely based on what you described) or even voltage spikes from a poorly regulated generator.

Many things really up to and including a load e.g. iron that has been inadvertently placed on the inverter - you would have to run thorough diagnostics to identify cause of failure.

Installing an electronic amp limit between inverter and loads will both protect the inverter and bring you far closer to the root cause of error.

Mehn! In this inverter hustle, there are many ways things could go south. So many factors beyond one's view and control.

This amp limiter, sir; can it be installed as a prevention for this kinda situation even though one is yet to experience it?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
My gut feeling is that your Genus 875va inverter is grossly incapable of properly charging a flooded battery.

The inverter will top out at max 14.2v to 14.4v per 12v nominal whereas flooded batteries typically need 14.6v minimum and even 14.8v for a proper charge.

Confirm what absorb voltage your inverter is taking the batteries to then proceed to step 2 if above 14.6v


Get an hydrometer and measure the specific gravity of your electrolyte when battery is fully charged and perhaps even equalized. If below 1.28, it is possible the factory got the electrolyte mix wrong - I have seen this happen with Luminous flooded batteries and I had to send them back to be emptied and refilled with proper mix.

More likely your inverter simply cannot charge the battery properly. If this is true, incorporating an el-cheapo smart charger like Souer to charge in parallel is your best bet.

I think this was the same problem Abdomox was having with his 2 units of newly installed Luminous tubular batteries. The electrolyte was gauged beyond the recommended level, and he had to drain out nearly a litre of it before things resolved.

The guy should follow the steps you highlighted and inform the house. I also remember earthrealm saying something about most inverters being incapable of effective charging a flooded battery. I think one has to be specific in inverter selection when using a flooded battery

Regarding the emboldened; how possible is it? Can you explain how the connection would look like?

viperVIP:
@NiyiOmoIyunade

Thank you for your response.
it is just one battery.
I will confirm the max voltage tomorrow.
Whereas there is a Suoer 40a Battery Charger connected to the battery already.

Concerning the hydrometer, I'll do that tomorrow as well.

Weldone, sir. I am particularly interested in your case coz i was about getting a tubular battery a month ago before plans changed. I hope you get it resolved eventually

odimbannamdi:


Mehn! In this inverter hustle, there are many ways things could go south. So many factors beyond one's view and control.

This amp limiter, sir; can it be installed as a prevention for this kinda situation even though one is yet to experience it?

Yea you can

Tolutopsy:


Anyone available for sale?

search on jumia/konga[quote author=odimbannamdi post=96129584]

I think this was the same problem Abdomox was having with his 2 units of newly installed Luminous tubular batteries. The electrolyte was gauged beyond the recommended level, and he had to drain out nearly a litre of it before things resolved.

The guy should follow the steps you highlighted and inform the house. I also remember earthrealm saying something about most inverters being incapable of effective charging a flooded battery. I think one has to be specific in inverter selection when using a flooded battery

Regarding the emboldened; how possible is it[b]? Can you explain how the connection would look like?[[/b]/quote]

simply hook up the terminals of the battery charger onto the battery, same place the inverter terminals are hooked up...

NiyiOmoIyunade:
If you got an electric jolt while touching a battery terminal and the DC bus is running under 60v, this suggests that there is no earthing/grounding in place and/or the inverter is not connected to earth/ground.

Typically cheap inverters have poor isolation in the internal components and some current leakage occurs and can manifest as slight to severe electric jolts when you touch the metallic chassis or screws used to hold the inverter together or the battery terminals. Proper earthing usually masks the problem by giving the fault currents a lower resistance path to go to.

@ Bolded. You're absolutely correct. It's 48 volt system and I don't think the inverter has earthing. My own inverter has a scr3w point on the casing for earth wire and it came bundled with the special wire to use for the scr3w point.

I'll instruct the guy to check continuity between the building wirings to check for shorts. I believe all appliances should be unplugged from all sockets and heater fuses switched off at the Distribution Box before commencing this trouble shooting.

Thanks for the wonderful inputs.

Posting with the alternate profile. SpamBot went on overdrive again when I posted this response. Maybe it's my use of the word "scr3w" in it's unaltered form.

Monlo:


I have a good used 12volts 200AH Luminous ba3 available,if interested.....
Zero-8054488-three-18

Still available?

Any one with a very good fairly used 200ah 12v battery for sale.

Valto:
it is sold by AMARSHAL POWER. they sell rugged inverters too. they have office in lagos. thier sales rep number is-080-3732-3210

Okay, thanks.

odimbannamdi:


I have a 12kva Prag relay central home stabilizer that should be able to pick that range

Drop your contact details

mctfopt:
I'm in the market for a good smart 8s BMS for Lifepo4 batteries with active balancer of between 1A to 2A. Anyone got ideas on which brand to get? Links, screenshots, suggestions are all welcome.

I know someone who has the attached for 50k/60k it's 100A/150A with 1A/1.5A balance