Its never news to learned that people deny themselves a whole lot of stuffs, and saved a bunch, to buy their new(I mean, foreign used) vehicles.

Such vehicles could be their first, or an addition, to existing ones.

But what has amazed me over the years, has being the immediate problems such vehicle (s) encounters, or develops, as it leaves the port of laden(Apapa), to a client's destination.

You'd hear stories of such vehicles either braking down due to engine or transmission system issues, a sudden development of some sort of "strange" problems.

Yeah, I know you might say these are used vehicles that could get to developed some faults along the way, considering it has being either purchased off an auction platform, or had being parked for a long time, from its country of purchase.

No one is ever happy, to spend extra funds on a purported "new" car, after purchases. It hurts, to realised on taking delivery of your first car to say, you begin to spend so much on repairs.

SO WHAT TO DO BEFORE TAKING DELIVERY OF YOUR CAR
1. RESEARCH. If you're a novice on cars, try as much as possible, to be informed about your vehicle of purchase.
This won't caused you much, in terms of resources. All you need to do is spend a few times on the internet, and research common problems embedded in your vehicle of purchase. Visit forums, and get to read what other car owners are saying about the car. Is it something you could cope with, despite the information you may get there?

2. GETTING A DRIVER, to drive the car to your destination. If you're a novice not familiar with the Port, hire a driver that can assist with driving the car down to your destination.
This person, must be someone whom you could trust, and you know.
Don't send people, or mechanic(s) alone to take delivery of your car, if you have that gut feelings that they are not professional enough to undertake the tasks.

3. CAR INSPECTIONS FIRST! As you are at the port, and ready to take delivery of the car over there, its important you carry out few checks on the it, before driving it to your destination.

a). Ensure all fluids are intact (gauged). Don't ever assumed because a car was imported into the country, that gives it a clean bill of health. In some cases, and if you're lucky, your hypothesis could be correct.

Not carrying out basic fluids checks before even starting an engine, has costs vehicle car owners, untold pains, ranging from catastrophic mechanical problems, and eventual selling off of the vehicle at below purchase prices.

Fluids you could check spans from the engine oil, transmission system oil, brake fluids, and power steering fluids, if your car is equipped with such.

b). visually look at the brake pads, and/or brake shoes, to ascertain their lever of wear.
Guage mentally, if the pads/brake shoes ought to be replaced immediately, or afterwards.

Your safety should be paramount FIRST, before anything else.
Driving your car off the Port, without such checks amounts to a huge risks and a gamble with your life.

c). RETRIEVE CODES. There are various reasons why dashboard lights such as ABS, VSC, and check engine lights pops up. Some could be some form of intermittent fault, or a permanent error problem with the emissions, or power train portions of the vehicle.

Getting a small potable diagnostic tool, would helped you established a baseline, before driving off the car to your destination. That, would helped you in keeping track of the BEFORE codes, when the car came to your destination, and the AFTER, after every REPAIRS.

d). All other checks such as body paints, and a hosts of others can be done, if you got the time.



CASE STUDY(A STORY):
A client had to go through some terrible experiences, after an FX35 he asks his mechanic to take delivery of for him, OVERHEATED while driving.

A call was placed to him by the driver, and mechanic, informing him about the situation.
It was frustrating. How could a car that hadn't overheated abroad, suddenly got to this stage, was my question to the client.

His response was, "I really don't know too". In trying to helped this dude, I specifically told him to ensure that those guys don't connect the radiator cooling fans of the vehicle directly to the ignition system. He did relayed that information to them, but they did otherwise, and got the car(a Tokunbo), somewhere, to fix the overheating issue, according to them.

Eventually when the vehicle got home, owner had noticed that the cooling fans have being made to run off the ignition system, ad that made the car so noisy when idling.

MY DISCOVERIES WHEN I GOT TO SEE THE VEHICLE:
1. Radiator cooling fans were made to run, immediately the ignition system was turned on. Further checking, I shockingly realised that the power feed to the fans were sourced from one of the ignition coil circuits. This would definitely caused a lot of driveability problems for the car.

2. Radiator reservoir, had no cover (cap) on it.
A car's cooling system is supposed to be pressurised, and not left exposed to the atmosphere.


THE FIX
1. In situations like these, you got to be patient enough to reasonably identify where the problem is, developed a planned action to fix the issue.

2. Tried as much to in detail, get as much information from the client, in how the vehicle had overheated.
Always listen attentively to clients when they tell you about their vehicles.
A lot of information that could helped you in any fixes, are hidden in their complaints.

3. Undoing the mess those guys have created on the car's cooling system, was not easy.
Here are bunch of wire harnesses that were ripped off by these guys, that needs careful attention to details here(you need to be familiar wit the colour codes of those wires that were cut and joined to some sets of heavy-duty relays).

4. Get to be familiar with the uses of digital test meters. It helps you not involved in guessing what wires or not are the powers/grounds in the circuits.
A wrong connections, could damage the vehicles integrated power modules and the ECU via short circuits.

Leaving it exposed without its cover, would sped up rate of evaporation of coolants, and allowing the presence of air bubbles, which are the must causes of overheating on vehicle engines.

5. Your code reader comes into play here.
Connected the code reader, started the car, and went straight to the REALTIME READING. This would show you realtime info about the various PIDs such as ETC°, RPM values, etc. My main interest was the engine coolant temperature.

After the radiator cooling fans were returned back to factory fittings, the huge noise from the fan stopped, and the temperature of the engine was below the middle indication mark.

6. Do not forget to wrapped all the cut wires with an electrician's tape, to prevent exposed wires to corrosion.
Exposing wires to corrosions, would caused erratic problems.


WHAT ACTUALLY CAUSED THE OVERHEATING?
From my tests, and fixes, the MAJOR REASONS the engine overheated was because of the ABSENCE OF A RESERVOIR COVER, and NOT BLEEDING THE VEHICLE ACCORDING TO NISSAN'S BLEEDING PROCEDURES.


CONCLUSION
Carrying out little research on your potential vehicle, and some basic vehicle checks, would go along way in having issues with your "new" vehicle.

Get to employed the services of drivers/mechanics you can trust know the job before taking delivery of your car.




PS: Whenever you cone across with any modern vehicle running with it's electric radiator cooling fans connected to the ignition system, just know its either there's an UNDERLYING OVERHEATING ISSUES. This is absolutely different for engines such as those with mechanical viscous fans attached to their engines.




Regards.

The p340 code would never go, no matter how you erased the code. You got to solved the root cause before it can clear.

Its something to do with your car's camshaft signals. It could be that the signal wire, that's the muddle one on the sensor has an open or short circuit problem, thereby causing the ECU not to know exactly the position of the pistons in the cylinders, in order to properly controlled the timing, injection pulses, etc. Its line saying the ECU isn't seeing the right data it needs to see from the camshaft sensor..

Another likely cause could be that the signal plate attached to the camshaft itself on the camshafts, are broken.

Lastly, the sensor may have failed.

Do a visual check on the sensor. Check to see if wires have being chamfered, before replacing.

Hope it helps you.


Regards,
Joseph

besun: isn't that d V8, that's almost like a Lincoln expedition?

Engine pictures?

"...leaking from the driveshaft"? There's no way the oil shortage could be from the driveshaft. You may have oil spills on the shaft, either from the CRANKSHAFT PULLEY SEAL, or as others have suggested, from the valve cover gasket. One more thing. Timing chain mating surfaces could be leaking too.

@oshosegun27:The VSC associated codes you got, are not the root cause(s) of the READY light not coming onboard.

The VSC related codes comes on, when the hybrid system also has an issues. Remember, the VSC, in this case, ABS actuator, skid control, etc, would automatically ceased to function, if there's a problem with the hybrid system of your car.

So in this case, as long as the car isn't coming to READY, and only comes on when you disconnect and connect the 12V battery back, suggests to me that you've a HIGH VOLTAGE ISOLATION PROBLEM(meaning, there's a leakage of high voltage from the hybrid system, to vehicle chassis or ground). This is dangerous, and means you'd have to be disconnecting the 12V at every stops, to fool the system into thinking all is well.

The above scenario is a likelihood though, since we don't have any codes right now, as regards high voltage leaks.

Here's what to do with your code reader:
Get a code reader that is capable of retrieving hybrid related codes, especially ENGINE AND HYBRID SYSTEM. Almost all cheap scan tools should be able to retrieve store codes I the engine system.

There are a lot of scenarios that could caused the car not to go into READY asides the one I mentioned above.

A weak or dead hybrid battery would never come to ready, no matter what you do.


Hope this helps you some bit?

You could get across to me via my signature here.




Regards,
Joseph

this car for 800k?

Olumzzz. Some few questions for you sir.

1. What's the history of this car, prior to this problem?

2. Have you done any job recently on it?

Now, here's what I'm thinking about this problem.

1. This does not appear to be an AC system problem, regardless of the loads placed on the engine.

2. From that code, few things could caused the problem.
A faulty or failing can/crankshaft sensors; damaged wiring harnesses or connectors, of the sensors involved; a bad ECU, and finally, from my experience also, is a camshaft gear that has advanced, or retarded.

So, replacing all types of sensors on that car, won't fixed that issue. You'd keep getting power losses, and terrible fuel consumption.

Here's what I'd want you to do, if you can. But if you're not confidence enough handling it, you could check contact me via my signature.

1. Stop replacing any parts for now. As long as that thing fixed the fault initially, tells you it isn't the problem.

2. Check the sensors wiring from the camshaft to the crankshaft sensor, and up to the ECU point, just to make sure none have chamfered, shorted, or opened.

3. Lastly, check the timing alignments on that car, especially that camshafts.


Hope this info aids in sorting this problem.


Regards,
Joseph

V6?

Some questions for you here:
1. Has this vehicle ever overheated so badly before?
If yes, what has being done previously on it due to that incidence?

So here's what I think is happening here:
1. Each time you erased the codes with your code reader, vehicle performs perfectly. The check engine light, along side the codes, only pops up, when it has being driven for along time, and when the engine has gotten to its operating temperature.

2. You appeared not to observed any driveability problems now, because, that vehicle is a V8, and a pending or current misfire problem, does not show up, in such away you'd feel it on a 4cylinder engine. This is because the number of cylinders( on that vehicle, tends to canceled out any potential misfires. Please do note, only if its a SINGLE CYLINDER MISFIRING, AND IN A PENDING STATUS. You'd only noticed a misfiring cylinder, if its severe(current), on idle, on 4/6 cylinder engines. But on V8+above, its a different ball game entirely.

3. Reviewing your freeze frame data, you got to fix the P0330 code FIRST, along side the P0420 code.

The knock sensor wire may have chamfered, if that engine has undergone a serious overheating before, or rodent could have chewed it, causing an open circuit problem.

4. The P0420 code, which is current, talks about the catalytic converter, not properly doing its job of reducing vehicle emissions(harmful gaseous substances).

It may not be the catalytic converter that is pretty bad, as you maybe think.

An exhaust leak around the neck of the catalytic converters, or anywhere on the exhaust system, would trigger this code, and hence the excess fuel consumption you're experiencing.

From the fuel trims in the freeze frames, the problem is occurring more on bank 2, which is the cylinder head by the driver side.

In solving the P0420 code, you need to focused more on banks 1&2, sensors 2, on both banks. Those are the sensors responsible for telling the ECU, if the efficiencies of both catalytic converters (post ones I mean), are working at the set % efficiencies.


PS: The pending misfire on cylinder #8, would in due time come(becomes Current).


I hope this would helped you in sorting this issue.



Regards,
Joseph

FX45 is a cool car. Fuel consumption isn't bad. They shared the same engine type, VK45DE, with my M45 Infiniti. You never see car yet. Have you seen the FX50? Too much of a ride it is.

A full tank on my M45 takes me from Lagos to Lokoja, Kogi state, without topping(of course, I maintain a constant velocity here:120km/hr). On trips to Ibadan, and back to Lagos, half tank takes me.

So, you got to be specific on what you want here. The V6/8.

When you eventually buy any of the vehicle, pls make sure, you only used specified TRANSMISSION SYSTEM FLUIDS. My car uses Nissan matic J transmission fluids. Do not used any other one in its place please.


Just in case you are interested in having the car fixed any day, my contact details are in my signature.



Regards,
Joseph

Troubleshooting over here, won't get it sorted out. An electrician has to simulate that scenario, before diagnosis.

Since you asked what likely fuse(s), I'd suggests might be the ECU of IGN fuses. But I don't think its the fuses. It might be the clicking sounds of relays, or some of the electronic components under that area, that you hear, because they somehow are getting current supply, below their target values.


Another likelihood could be that the sounds you heard were coming from the fuselage at the engine side, and not the kick panel portion of the car.


Regards,

twinskenny:


Thank you very much sir

The car jack on Motion and same sometime loud sound from the exhaust

get a second opinion somewhere else and try. if you've a Bluetooth enabled code reader, or anyone, you should run another scan.

The parts you're replacing, I don't think they are bad. Its either the person who scanned the car wants to do what we called, WACK A MOLE APPROACH, or something. Just throwing money at parts, hoping the problems gets fixed.

What exactly is the problem of the car?

1. Fuel economy issues

2. transmission system


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N

Send picture of the engine let's see

@lakun2013. My contacts are in my signature. You can WhatsApp, then we talk more.

My instincts tells me, the colour from your exhaust tailpipe is BLUEISH.

1. As long as this happens when the engine is cold, and after parking for a while, that depicts your valve stem seals are weak, and have lot their abilities to seal the intake/exhaust valves port.

2. The oil shortages you're experiencing means the oil rings are also weak, and can't provide the necessary oil wiping of the cylinder bores(walls).

Should you replaced the engine?
Its up to you here. If you've got the cash, and you're comfortable, and certain about the engine you're getting, then go ahead.

Alternatively, usually replacing the valve seals and oil rings takes care of the problems.

Choose what works for you.




Regards,
Joseph

My instincts tells me, the colour from your exhaust tailpipe is BLUEISH.

1. As long as this happens when the engine is cold, and after parking for a while, that depicts your valve stem seals are weak, and have lot their abilities to seal the intake/exhaust valves port.

2. The oil shortages you're experiencing means the oil rings are also weak, and can't provide the necessary oil wiping of the cylinder bores(walls).

Should you replaced the engine?
Its up to you here. If you've got the cash, and you're comfortable, and certain about the engine you're getting, then go ahead.


Regards,
Joseph

You maybe new to hearing a continuous buzzing sound coming from somewhere at the driver side of your vehicle, immediately you opened the driver Akure door, or as you drive.

These sounds are not for fun. They informed you about the dangers of such a safety hazard, as a failing or failed braking system.

There are no specifics here. It could be the ABS control module, an ABS motor relay, dysfunction in any of the hydraulic lines, etc.


Here's the link:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSrU_vkhzis

YOU SUDDENLY TRIED STARTING YOUR CAR, AND REALISED THE HYBRID SYSTEM ISN'T COMING ON(DID NOT START).

There many things that could caused your vehicle not to start.
I'm just going to try my best, to give just a few.

WHAT IS THE BASIC THINGS TO DO FIRST?!

Here's what I think you could do in the interim, to get you out of the situation, or with a DIYer diagnosis:

1. Try using another remote key for the car, if you've got an extra key fob reprogrammed.
If you try starting it with the extra key, and it works, that means your previous remote key is bad, and probably has a broken board.

2. A bad or weak 12V battery could prevent the hybrid system from coming on.
If you try starting the car, and noticed the dashboard lights are dimmed as in the Ford fusion hybrid with pictures above, that tells you the battery is weak or dead.

Have the battery replaced before going further.

You could actually try jump starting the car, using a battery from a donor vehicle.

Always ensure the battery jump start cables are properly clamped on the battery terminals before starting.

IF AFTER GOING THROUGH THE CHECKS ABOVE, AND YOU CAN'T START THE VEHICLE, you can now try this last option.

Use the EMERGENCY PROCEDURE TO START THE CAR, as follows:
1. Make sure the transmission system is set to the P range.

2. Just like is obtainable in conventional vehicles, with accessories(ACC), Ignitions (IGN), and state options, so it is applicable on these vehicles.
Depending on the type of start system mechanism on your vehicle, set the mode of the ignition systems to accessories (ACC). This I'd achieved by PRESSING THE START BUTTON ONCE!

3. While in that mode(ACC), apply your foot on the brake pedals, with your finger pressing the start button for about 10-15seconds.


RESULTS
If it starts, that tells you the system has issues, that needs further diagnosis. If it still does not start, it still means you've to consult a hybrid fixer to troubleshoot the more.

Here are some video links to help:

First video, shows a NO READY light



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEBslhIRDaE



Second video, shows a READY LIGHT display



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EPCAi8iz3xw


I hope this short piece comes would helped you someday.

I don't know what specification of oil is for your car though. But you got to be certain about the quality of those oils you get, and verifiable sources.

I have heard people say some vendors, and even filling stations, refilled those containers with conventional oils (none synthetic).

This is the final video of the repairs. After the installations was done, we decided to READY the vehicle. Immediately we got it readied, you'd be surprised what came out of the exhaust tailpipe.
Check out the video. So terrible. We had to get the radiator cooling system, entirely flushed, with clean water, before finally introducing Toyota super long life coolants in there.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eltgBWIjXRk

This second video shows when we had finished the repairs, and awaiting installation in the car.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DwmbhJowFI

This is the first of a three part videos on how the battery pack of this highlander was resuscitated.

Some years ago down town somewhere in Surulere, there was a terrible downpour, which wrecked havoc on properties, and possessions.

Unfortunately, there was a highlander that was parked on a low land area of the street, overnight. When the mornings came, owner had prepared set to go to work, but discovered the high voltage compartment had being flooded already.

The only fix was either to replaced the pack completely, or do some swaps. We opted for swapping some part of the high voltage system, and refurbishing the battery pack.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWT-62ZRdME


Disclaimer: Please if you're not comfortable working with HV systems, do not attempt this repair. You could be hurt, or even killed when messing around these systems.

Information such as contained in the blog, are extremely useful, if one adheres to them. They even helped fixers like us breathe some sigh of relief.


Regards

Check out what I saw in there!

Cutting through one of the battery pack cell's segment with a hacksaw.
I could only do this because there is no risks of arching, due to extremely low voltages displayed on my digital meter.

Have you ever thought what exactly is inside of these Toyota hybrid pack modules? Well, I have had such thoughts too. Putting those thoughts into action, I have decided to get some dead modules lying down in the shop; I also ripped them apart, to find out exactly what lies inside. I am doing this for the fun of it though.


See what I have discovered, embedded in here:

https://www.dxta.com.ng/2019/11/06/tear-down-of-a-toyota-hybrid-module/



Regards.

Legalwealth. Na gode. Ubanjigi ya sa mu dace. Amin summa amin.

Nawao oga. You still haven't fixed this issue or you're just managing to see if the whole thing would disappear on its own?

This was the sunroof hoses and appurtenances connected and ready to be secured properly

That's the discharge hoses