A Ford fusion 2012 with only the ignition system on. This car has a key slot for keys, and not a start button system.
Notice how dim the dashboard lights are.

READY LIGHT ON on the dashboard of a hybrid Highlander 2010

It should be noted that as the engine is running, there is no energy flowing from the hybrid battery, or vice verse.
Notice that the energy monitor on this 2008 Prius is stagnant without any energy flow.

At this region, the engine is silent totally, and the car is on electric mode.
You can drive safely now, without putting more stress on the hybrid battery, and the engine.

The region that tells you the engine is running.
This was for a 2008 Camry hybrid.
The indicator stays at that point, for some few seconds, before it falls down to the zero mark.
Do not engage the transmission system at the point where the indicator is UP!

INTRODUCTION

I have had instances with some clients, not familiar with the operations of hybrid electric vehicles, and who at the same time, considering owning a hybrid or electric vehicle, of any brand, called to asks if the the mode of driving such vehicles are somewhat the same with known conventional vehicles around town. Some would even want to know how to drive one, if eventually they get to own one.

SO HOW DO YOU POWER ON THE VEHICLE?
In some of the known hybrid electric vehicle brands, like Ford fusion, and Toyota's Camry/Prius etc., the following steps should shed more light on powering on(or starting such vehicles)

1. READY LIGHT MUST BE LIT ON THE DASHBOARD. Depending on the brand of hybrid electric car you've got, some automakers have configured their car's "starting operations", to be only when the READY LIGHT IS LIT ON THE DASHBOARD. Without such indication signs coming onboard, the vehicle would never start.

Making the READY LIGHT come on, means that(a) your right hand foot must be depressed on the brake pedal, (b)while your right hand or finger is pressed m or turns the key, depending on what start system function your car has.

Camry, and some Prius, has a start button system, whilst Ford fusion hybrid, and some older model highlander and prius hybrids came equipped with a traditional car keys lots.

2. ALLOW THE ENGINE TO RUN FEW SECONDS BEFORE DRIVING. In these vehicles, immediately the READY LIGHT COMES ON, pls DON'T DRIVE YOUR CAR IMMEDIATELY. AT THIS STAGE, IT'S
ONLY THE ENGINE THAT IS RUNNING (IDLING)

To reduced emissions output, and to allowed the engine more efficient, manufacturers, have deigned the engine's ECU, in such a way that it immediately starts the car, in order to warm the engine up, and the catalytic converters. This prevents prevents engine wear problems, and helps lubrications of internal engine components.

3. COMMENCE DRIVING. After the engine has stopped working, engage the car in D/R, depending on your choice, but this time, with the the brake pedal depressed.

HOW DO YOU KNOW THE ENGINE HAS STOPPED WORKING? You get to know this when there's a sudden silence from the engine. This is the stage where one or all of the electric motors are driving or moving the car, without the engine coming on.

4. DO NOT DRIVE AGGRESSIVELY ON STARTUPS . Driving this way, exerts more "juice" from the energy storage system(high voltage battery), and would put more strain on the battery an a frequent engine cycling (the engine keeps coming on, to help with replenishment of lost energy.

The more you accelerate beyond 10km/hr, the engine itself comes onboard, to provide the much needed boost to the electric portion of the car.

5. DO NOT DRIVE WITHOUT THE AC COOLING SYSTEM. The cabin cooling system is meant to provide cooling, not only to the occupants of the vehicle, but also to the high voltage battery pack behind the car. In some cars, vent homes are provided, at the passenger side rear (for Prius), at the middle of the windshield at the rear(for Camry), and underneath the rear middle seats (for highlanders).

Driving without the AC cooling system ON, would quickly shorten the lifespan of the hybrid pack. All hybrid electric vehicle compressors are electrically powered, and efficient, that's why they do not run off of the engine to burn fuels. It does not exert any loads on the engine, like a conventional vehicle, where the load on the engine from the AC cooling system, automatically means fuel consumption.


CONCLUSION
Knowing how to power up a hybrid electric car, and driving it more efficiently, is the key to sustainable ownership.

Getting to know these tips, affords you increased fuel economy, and a reductions on your emissions footprints.


Thanks for reading.



Regards

Seunoj. The softwares are available online from amazon, or at any automotive auto shop near you.

Una too funny jor. My hand no learn Benz or that o!
Maybe I tried pronouncing the traction control wrongly or so?!

Here's part two of the video.
The video shows the repairs being done. Sometimes, you don't need to spend a lot on simple repairs like this.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi9D6CKTboQ

There are instances when you suddenly see the ABS light lit on your car's dashboard, and may have being wondering what exactly is/was the problem. Well, most of the reasons for the ABS light showing on the dashboard, ranges from a faulty wheel speed sensor, an open or short circuit in the ABS wire harnesses, or a faulty ABS control module/actuator. In the rare cases we've seen, a dirty wheel speed sensor tip, would prevent the sensor from receiving signals from the reluctor wheel to the ABS/ECU module, for subsequent operation.

This short video is part of a series of three part videos that demonstrates briefly how you could use a code reader, whether handheld or software based like what I used in this video, to interpret various ABS related PIDs, than spending tremendous time, troubleshooting the problem without any headway.

Here's the link:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lOGtuo-qrY



Hope this helps someone facing similar problems.


Regards

The logo bears some semblances to what Foton has on its vehicles. Nice job though.

Scanned that car first. What's the condition of the transition fluid?

Smart! You're perfectly right with your postulations about Catcon. I have seen that too.

Its the oxygen sensors that are responsible for the air/fuel ratios. A distortion in any of their readings, would impact heavily on fuel economy.

In my view, I would never replaced my catalytic converter, if it wasn't blocked, or degraded. Reasonable thing would be to take a look at the O2S. Sometimes, code readers don't just bring the codes up.



Hehe he! I didn't say you should throw them away na. Its still helpful. My concerns are people thinking using a code reader, and retrieving codes, absolutely means replacing parts to solve a problem.

That's a huge money been spent son fuel consumption here.

Here's a brief.

That sensor, measures the volume of oxygen in the system, and converts that in some sort of voltage values for the ECU to use in order to attained a set air/fuel ratio balance. If the ECU sees less oxygen in the system from the O2S, it would command an increase in the injector pulse width(prolonged fuel supply):rich system.

This code tells you the ECU isn't seeing the right air/fuel ratios for it to correctly operate the car.

So replacing that sensor didn't work, because, either you got the FAKE PARTS, OR THERE'S ABSOLUTELY A SHORT OR AN OPEN CIRCUIT PROBLEM WITH THE oxygen sensor wiring harnesses to the ECU itself.

NOTE: I have had issues like this too. Only replaced that sensor with a DENSO MADE. Any other one, would trigger that code.

Asks your electrician to look at those probable causes first! At least sensor replacement has being eliminated.

Trace those wires from the sensor to the ECU. It could be that the wire from the sensor close to the exhaust manifold has chamfered, and failed.

If all the above fails, then its time to do the following:

1. There could be other things causing the fuel consumption issues, apart from the O2S.
How's your air filter quality like? Terribly dirty, or...?Have you had it replaced since you owned that car?

A clogged filter is like when one's nostrils are blocked. The volume of oxygen you inhale/exhale, becomes insufficient, and that leads to problems (heart beat increases, since it tries to supply enough oxygen to cope with the demands ).

2. Removed your spark plugs and inspect. If they are worn out, replaced them all!

3. Is/are your radiator fans connected directly with the ignition system's circuitry? Does it come on immediately the ignition is turned ON?

4. Any signs of fuel leaks on the car? Sometimes, leaks do happens, that you may not be aware of. Any petrol smell?

5. How's your cars engine temperature? Late OCI on cars would increased friction on internal engine parts, which leads to increased engine loads, and then an increased in fuel consumption.
Any problems you've observed with your accessory pulleys? Any of them sticking or making awful noises(compressor, etc).?





PS: Here's an appeal to car owners with code readers.
Having a code reader read for trouble codes, does not equate to fixing a problem by replacing parts.
Code readers are there to narrow down the likely areas where you need to troubleshoot.


Hope this gives you some succour.


Regards,
Joseph

Ceerock. My contact details are in my signature.

The VSS on mounted on your transmission system maybe defective. Have your mech/elect person checked it out for you.


Regards
Joseph

I have a HP beads laptop, and a Dell inspiron. Dell has faulty motherboard, while the HP has got keyboard issues too.

The HP is 1terrabite.

What's your stake on Toshiba, @automoto?

Hi guys. I need your opinion on what laptop to choose from these brands:
1. HP
2. COMPAQ
3. DELL.

All have 2.0Ghtz; 4.0G, and...

What do I need the laptop for?
The purpose is to replaced my existing Dell inspiron 5050, and to have a system just for typing, downloads of PDF for research purposes. Something that's basically fast. I'm not interested in using it for movie downloads, etc.

Both Dell and the HP had no Intel inside, whilst the Compaq has something called ADC our so, and Intel altogether inside.

My concerns?
1. Y are Compaq laptops extremely hot during operation?
Is that because of the ADC something inside, or?



Your responses are highly welcomed.
I'm not a laptop geek, so your corrections as regards jargons used would be appreciated too.


Regards

This people can't defend themselves, despite the huge investments they have made on defence. Its really ridiculous and shameful.

The Saudis are just trying to protect their reign. Asides that, their priority is religion.

"...Yet d temperature on d dash board is still rising with the engine very hot but the water not steaming or drying".

Don't you think your statement above is contradictory?

If you had said, the temperature gauge shows the temperature of coolant is at the red-hot mark, without the coolant" boiling " out from the radiator, then I'd say, your car's COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR behind the engine is malfunctioning already.

That sensor is behind the cylinder heads, at the middle rear close to the firewall. Its difficult to access though. If you have small hands, you could accessed it. But if not, you've to once again, removed the intake manifold (that aluminium stuff).

If replacing the sensor still doe not fix this problem, please have your radiator assay checked.


Feel free to contact me on my signature.


Regards

Where is your location? Are you able to leave the car for some days with us, to helped you troubleshoot what's going on with the car?



Regards

9nicetoo. I wished I could get that ride. isn't the owner contemplating selling the car instead of rusting away?

@Witches. What exactly did you visit the mechanic shop for?
What were the issues you had? If it stalls in motion, there are slots that could cause that.
Do you have the service light lit on the dashboard?

The costs depends on what you really want. In my case, the oil pump, was still intact, including the timing chains, guides, and auto tensioners.

But since I had already dismantled the engine, I decided to replaced all the connecting rod bearings, crankshaft journal bearings, piston rings, and valve stem seals.


NB: I rebuilt the engine myself, so basically, cutting down a chunk of the costs.

You can contact me, by checking my signature.



Regards!

I still find it difficult to believed why AC techs would keep advising that VDC compressor should be replaced with a manual one.

@ panafrican. If celebrating, which in our country just entails drinking tea and the rest, without anything to show in terms of development, than really.

From your reply, it appears you're OK with the yearly recitation of what our so-called leaders have done in the last that's all?

I like your marketing strategy with the AC system stuff. I always thought it was in the auto section o!

The various likely causes you got from google, are correct.

1.How did you know the exhaust has no leaks?
Any buuuuu kind of noise when you start the car? If yes, then there is either a leak or the catalytic converter isn't there at all.

2. Sometimes, from my experiences fixing cars, it could be the O2S. In some cases you don't get to see any O2S codes popping up when you scan the car.

3. What's the state of your catalytic converter? Check if it is clogged, or none existent at all.


What you could do!
1. If the catalytic converter is OK, and still in the exhaust system, you could use your code reader to take a look at the real time readings of your upstream (the one up close to the top cylinder) O2S.

If it is not just fluctuating(doing it's job), then there's a problem with that sensor, an open circuit in that sensor's circuitry, etc.

The upstream or that upper sensor is what "looks" at the amount of oxygen in the system, and combines it with the fuel the car would burn, to achieved air/fuel ratio balance.

So if the O2S isn't doing its job, the car's ECU (brain), would interpret this as a lean situation, which would caused the injection pulse widths to increase (more fuel consumption).


Hope this helps you some bit.


Regards

Nice ride, with its heavy sporty sound. I have one too(M45).
In motion how? When you slowing down, or accelerating?. Need specifics here.
Service engine soon light lit on the dashboard?

Several things could caused it, ranging from fuel, ignition, or mechanical problems.

Done DAT, didn't work. Bought a new battery, same thing. Someone suggested could be the motherboard. As it appears now, a new laptop might be needed.

javaguru. absolutely. those celebrating are only those whose belle's are filled up. let's just say, political jobbers.