durodee:
Any suggestions on names/brands to consider?

If you are on a budget, consider Hisense TVs. I got a 55" for 250k last year April and it is still going strong till today. Their 70" sold for 450 - 500k early this year. Price may have changed now.

Hisense TV doesn't last. In another 3-6 months, you will likely see horizontal line

odimbannamdi:


If you are on a budget, consider Hisense TVs. I got a 55" for 250k last year April and it is still going strong till today. Their 70" sold for 450 - 500k early this year. Price may have changed now.

kiekie1:
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durodee:
Good morning house, just want some advice here on Smart TVs.
1) Is there a way I can make my regular TV smart? I.e is there a box or stick readily available that I can attach?
2) Anybody with experience with Polystar 65inch smart TV. Is it worth the 300k price? Just to watch films and occasional football matches.

Many thanks for your input!

Buy lg or Samsung from accredited distributors only and thank yourself later🙌

drizzypat:
how much sir

2.1m

Golgota:
Hisense TV doesn't last. In another 3-6 months, you will likely see horizontal line

Wahala! Wahala!! Wahala!!!



I cover my TV with the blood of Jesus ooo...

But do you have a personal experience with a particular Hisense model? Please share, for our learnings

oloet:



Buy lg or Samsung from accredited distributors only and thank yourself later🙌

I agree. I will be moving to one of these category kings before the end of the year. If anything, they both have Eco-mode feature to reduce energy consumption, unlike the Hisense. Just that they can be very expensive for someone on a tight budget.

If you are buying to watch movies and football matches, then avoid LG or make sure the LG TV is running on android and not it's customized Webos which has limited app and also does not support external apk apps that's not on its content store. The webos is limited compared to the android os.

Since we are talking TVs.

I have a modern smart TV without analog audio outputs just digital audio outputs but I have a vintage amplifier.

I want to pump the audio from the TV into the amplifier because I prefer the audio that comes from the amplifier to that coming from the TV.

The issue is that to do that I need a Digital Audio Converter (DAC) to act as a go-between my TV and my amplifier.

If anyone else has this kind of setup which DAC are you using?

Did you get it locally or did you import it?

Trying to determine what works and why before biting the bullet

https://www.fouanistore.com/ng/en

Fouani Nigeria Ltd might be the only place you can buy genuine LG and Hisense Products with your warrantee without stories.

durodee:
Good morning house, just want some advice here on Smart TVs.
1) Is there a way I can make my regular TV smart? I.e is there a box or stick readily available that I can attach?
2) Anybody with experience with Polystar 65inch smart TV. Is it worth the 300k price? Just to watch films and occasional football matches.

Many thanks for your input!

durodee:
Any suggestions on names/brands to consider?

I have only used:
H96 which I only used to play movies via an app to enable me download subtitles.
Goto to jiji there are varieties

Mirascreen is a wifi cast device.( This is about 6k). You can cast most apks from your phone.Port is hdmi. In a way ur tv don turn smart b dat.

Is Felicity Inverter truly belongs to Axpert family?
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Happy weekend oh. Abeg i need small help.

For like 3 days now I've noticed that my Famicare inverter battery reading doesn't go past 26.9V. Solar panel output is still very stable at around 650W max and my usage is still normal and also I haven't tweaked the inverter settings at all. I've been running on battery only for like 2 months now because my light has wahala and it can't be fixed until power supply in my area is predictable.

Usually by 12 noon, the battery would have reached 28.2V but these days I doesn't go past 26.9V.

I had to refill distilled water last night thinking maybe because some cells are getting close to the red line na why wahala dey but still this morning na 26.9V dey.

I called the inverter installer guy and he was talking about the sun having changed position but I think that's supposed to affect solar panel output not the actual battery voltage....abi am I wrong?

What do you guys recommend I do abeg? Thanks

omonla5:
If you are buying to watch movies and football matches, then avoid LG or make sure the LG TV is running on android and not it's customized Webos which has limited app and also does not support external apk apps that's not on its content store. The webos is limited compared to the android os.

This is well noted. Thanks for sharing

Any review on Phocos 5.5kw inverter (German brand and not China made) here and what is the idle power consumption?
Do there have 8kw?

vta2008:
Happy weekend oh. Abeg i need small help.

For like 3 days now I've noticed that my Famicare inverter battery reading doesn't go past 26.9V. Solar panel output is still very stable at around 650W max and my usage is still normal and also I haven't tweaked the inverter settings at all. I've been running on battery only for like 2 months now because my light has wahala and it can't be fixed until power supply in my area is predictable.

Usually by 12 noon, the battery would have reached 28.2V but these days I doesn't go past 26.9V.

I had to refill distilled water last night thinking maybe because some cells are getting close to the red line na why wahala dey but still this morning na 26.9V dey.

I called the inverter installer guy and he was talking about the sun having changed position but I think that's supposed to affect solar panel output not the actual battery voltage....abi am I wrong?

What do you guys recommend I do abeg? Thanks

Whats the maximum instantaneous pv yield that you've seen? I think he is right, daily solar hours has reduced, and pv generation has reduced also. That could be the reason why your battery voltage hasn't gone beyond 26.9v. In the interim, You can supplement with alternative means of charging and then compare.

Yes. don’t just play around with batteries they are dangerous. expecially when it comes to Lithium batteries. But LiFePo4 batteries are much better.
This company egbatt looking for distributors for solar energy storage battery distributors in Africa.
https://www.egbatt.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/10000wh-lfp-powerwall.jpg

sathob:
Well, great people of FTA, I think I should start this on behalf of George_D because of the request made by others who have expressed interest in alternate electricity, especially solar energy. Our FTA independence is not complete if we are to suffer frequent power outages and been dependant on the nation’s electricity grid system always. I have read in this house many times, from members “PHCN don go off, so I will track later when they come back”. No one can run away from power outages in the main electricity grid – not even the west, it happens. Hence, we all should have alternate electricity and using renewable energy is, to me, the best. This means one can enjoy their FTA fully by being totally free and not “dom” (dominated).

Look at some advantages
• Lower or no electricity bills
• Compared to generator users, there is no fuel cost and stress of getting it and no fumes.
• People living in the remote locations where power is unavailable or too expensive to hook-up too can have electricity.
Just to mention but a few.

Without going into detail, one can enjoy electricity by means of using solar energy (energy from the sun), wind mill (using energy from the wind). Don’t forget, where there is frequent electricity supply from the utility company, you can store some energy for back up.

You will need the following to complete a solar project or back up.

1. Solar panels
2. Power Inverter
3. Charge controller
4. Batteries to store energy
5. wires and cables
6. Monitors/meters

The solar panel consists of cells called photo voltaic cells and these, covert the energy received from the sun to electricity in simple terms (this electricity is a direct current
d.c). The panels can last up to 20 years plus. The panels can be fixed, adjustable or of the tracking type. You can decide to go for a complete panel from manufacturers (already made) or build panels by yourself using solar cells- the latter is for the hobbyist. The panels are rated in watts eg 80w solar panel supplying 12v continuous at a given time

The inverter
Power Inverters are available in 3 basic designs, two of which I remember very well now – the one that out sinusoidal waves and those that are modified sign wave type (meaning not pure sine waves and do have limits when it comes to its application) . The power inverter converts your storage battery power into the 240 volts AC that runs your appliances. It is the heart of your solar energy system. Unless you only run 12 volt DC appliances you will need a power inverter to supply your AC. This is just the basics.

The Charge Controller
A Charge Controller is necessary to protect the batteries from over charging and supply them with the proper amount of energy to promote long battery life.

Batteries
Without Storage Batteries to store energy you would only have power when the sun was shining. There is a lot more to batteries than just the ordinary car battery. Yo may need to change batteries over the years.

Wires and Cables
Without the right size of cables, you are likely to experience inefficient transfer of power (greater losses) and overheating.

Meters
This is required to monitor the performance of your solar system.

Firstly, it is very necessary to know what gadgets you will be using (eg.tv, sat. receiver) and how long you will use how long you would have them on the solar power and how much energy your battery can store and which solar panel (rating in power) will supply the required energy.

A lot goes into calculating the cost of setting up a solar system. First one has to consider the period of usable sunlight available at their location to do this calculation. For us here close to the equator, we get about 7 to 8 hours or more of sunlight during dry season, just a rough estimate.

How do I know I need 100w or 80w or 300 watts solar panel for my project?

The power consumption of appliances is given in Watts. To calculate the energy you will use over time, just multiply the power consumption by the hours of use.

Eg. If I have 90W tv set which I want to use for 6hrs, 25W satellite receiver for the same period, and a 50W fan for 3 hours. What will be the energy required from the solar panels for the period?

1. the energy for each appliance is Watts x time (hours) = Wh

So, the watt hours for the tv = 90 x 6 = 540 Wh (watt hours)

Watt hours for sat. receiver = 25 x 6 = 150 Wh

Watt hours for fan will be = 50 x 3 = 150 Wh

2. sum the watt hours for the individual appliances ie. 540 + 150 + 150 = 840 Wh (watt hours)

This means that the solar panel will need to supply 840 watt hours of energy to the battery each day to cover the total power required by these appliances.

3. since there are bound to be losses in the system However, to account for natural losses, we multiply the result by 1.2 (this factor allows for natural system losses, assuming 85% efficiency). Therefore, we will assume the panels will actually need to be able to supply a total of
840 x 1.2 = 1008Wh

4. so, to supply 1008Wh of energy the panel we assume to receive 7 hours of sunlight will be rated at 1008 Wh / 7 h = 144W
So, I will need 144W solar panel to supply energy to my appliances above at the given time.

Regarding point 3, it also means, if I have a solar panel rated at 100W receiving sunlight for 7 hours a day, the total energy supplied considering 85% efficiency will be 100x7x0.85= 595Wh and not 700Wh

5. Your battery should be able to store 1008Wh of energy. Since batteries capacities are rated in Ah (Ampere Hours) you need to multiply Ah by the Volt rating to know the Watt Hour. Power(W) = Voltage (V) x Current (I) ; Watt hour = VxIxHour

Therefore Ah (which is I x h) = Wh / V = 1008 / 12 (the number 12 represents a 12v battery)
= 84 Ah

So it means you will need not less than a 84Ah, 12V battery (deep-cycle batteries, not ordinary car batteries) to do the job.

NB. Another way of calculating battery capacity is explained in this example. Should my battery be rated at 84Ah, 12V the watt hour (energy) will be 84Ah x 12 V = 1008Ah

It implies that the battery can supply a 150watt appliance for 1008/70 = 14hours

Pls don’t just play around with batteries they are dangerous.

Peterlove11:


Whats the maximum instantaneous pv yield that you've seen? I think he is right, daily solar hours has reduced, and pv generation has reduced also. That could be the reason why your battery voltage hasn't gone beyond 26.9v. In the interim, You can supplement with alternative means of charging and then compare.

Thanks man 🙏🏾

I think maximum yield was around December last year when I had just installed it. Was probably doing around 900Watts

The reason why the 26.9V is really bothering me is because I can add more load to the inverter and it will still maintain that 26.9V unless the load is pretty heavy like a microwave oven.

Since 26.9V is no where near the normal 28.2V, I was expecting the voltage to drop with each little load I turn on i.e laptop, standing fans.

I'm hoping NEPA gets serious sha so they can finally diagnose what's wrong with the power supply to my house, then I can test the inverter with NEPA too. (I don't have a generator)

FEGEITOK:
Since we are talking TVs.

I have a modern smart TV without analog audio outputs just digital audio outputs but I have a vintage amplifier.

I want to pump the audio from the TV into the amplifier because I prefer the audio that comes from the amplifier to that coming from the TV.

The issue is that to do that I need a Digital Audio Converter (DAC) to act as a go-between my TV and my amplifier.

If anyone else has this kind of setup which DAC are you using?

Did you get it locally or did you import it?

Trying to determine what works and why before biting the bullet

Done something like this years back.. with the help me of a converter

If u already have a non smart led TV go get a smart TV box they are way better and less cost effective than purchasing a new smart TV, I bought one from AliExpress 2years ago abt 21k or thereabout it comes with 128gb Rom and 6gb ram, and also support SD card it has everything a smartphone have, u can plug yr flash directly just like pc and copy or play movies, comes with hdmi cable u can connect to yr TV

durodee:
Good morning house, just want some advice here on Smart TVs.
1) Is there a way I can make my regular TV smart? I.e is there a box or stick readily available that I can attach?
2) Anybody with experience with Polystar 65inch smart TV. Is it worth the 300k price? Just to watch films and occasional football matches.

Many thanks for your input!

twinskenny:


Done something like this years back.. with the help me of a converter

Oh great someone who understands my predicament.

Did you buy the converter locally or did it have to be imported?

odimbannamdi:


Wahala! Wahala!! Wahala!!!



I cover my TV with the blood of Jesus ooo...

But do you have a personal experience with a particular Hisense model? Please share, for our learnings

I don't think he is correct. I bought a second hand 65" Hisense TV about 2 years ago and it has served well since then. No lines, no troubles. The only problem I have with it is the lack of direct input selection which messes with my Harmony Remote activity setup.

TechGeek777:


I believe this 2kw+, measured our newly installed pump last two months, steady draw was 2.2kw - 2.4kw+, while surge was heading to 5kw.

I will measure it again with clamp meter since we recently changed the wire from meter control box to the surface of the underground pipe to 2.5mm comester.

The pump depth 180ft plus from ground to surface, while from surface to thank is above 30ft.

I strongly believe most 1.5hp consuming 2kw+ are 2hp labelled 1.5hp.

But I will do the test again, perhaps this week when I have the time to know the difference now that new wires are used.

Finally did the test today with "CLAMP METER DT3266F"
Surge: 16.64amp * 230v = 3,827.2w
Continues draw: 8.2amp * 230 = 1,886w

The reduction in consumption is as a result of stronger/better wire used (2.5mm² Comester)

Below is the initial test done in Q1 of this year.
Max Surge = 19amp * 230v = 4,370w
Continues draw = 11amp * 230v = 2,530w

adrusa:


I don't think he is correct. I bought a second hand 65" Hisense TV about 2 years ago and it has served well since then. No lines, no troubles. The only problem I have with it is the lack of direct input selection which messes with my Harmony Remote activity setup.

There is a difference between made for Africa TVs and made for Europe TVs, the TVs sold in our local stores are made for Africa

I thought as much. It's very close to 2kw last I checked. How did you remove d wire connected to d submersible though.

TechGeek777:


Finally did the test today with "CLAMP METER DT3266F"
Surge: 16.64amp * 230v = 3,827.2w
Continues draw: 8.2amp * 230 = 1,886w

The reduction in consumption is as a result of stronger/better wire used (2.5mm² Comester)

Below is the initial test done in Q1 of this year.
Max Surge = 19amp * 230v = 4,370w
Continues draw = 11amp * 230v = 2,530w

oloet:



There is a difference between made for Africa TVs and made for Europe TVs, the TVs sold in our local stores are made for Africa

My second hand TV wasn't "US or UK used", I bought it off a guy who was relocating. He bought the TV in Nigeria.

TechGeek777:


Finally did the test today with "CLAMP METER DT3266F"
Surge: 16.64amp * 230v = 3,827.2w
Continues draw: 8.2amp * 230 = 1,886w

The reduction in consumption is as a result of stronger/better wire used (2.5mm² Comester)

Below is the initial test done in Q1 of this year.
Max Surge = 19amp * 230v = 4,370w
Continues draw = 11amp * 230v = 2,530w

Can you post the picture of the new wire? Thanks.