why is the friend selling?

Hello Trac
Please i need your expert advice. I was trying to google the solution to the problem I am currently facing with my 2001 200 clk kompressor when i stumbled across this thread. So i decided to register so I could communicate with you.

Anywasy this is my problem. I got up one morning and when I used my remote to open the doors there was no response like there was a loss in communication with the car and key remote. But it did not stop there. When i tried to start the car I put the key in the ignition but the ignition would not turn. Also,the sucking like sound after the key has been put in the ignition no longer happens. Something like this happened about a year ago. I took the key to a technician and he told me he could fix it. I dont quite know what he did but when I collected the key the next day it worked just fine. Please what could be the problem and what can I do to solve it. Thanks

I need expert advice,i have a 2005 Benz C230 Kompressor that is indicating service B required in 20 days,my problem is what type of Oil should i use for the servicing and also i want to shange out the coolant which type should i use?

biyala: Hello Trac
Please i need your expert advice. I was trying to google the solution to the problem I am currently facing with my 2001 200 clk kompressor when i stumbled across this thread. So i decided to register so I could communicate with you.

Anywasy this is my problem. I got up one morning and when I used my remote to open the doors there was no response like there was a loss in communication with the car and key remote. But it did not stop there. When i tried to start the car I put the key in the ignition but the ignition would not turn. Also,the sucking like sound after the key has been put in the ignition no longer happens. Something like this happened about a year ago. I took the key to a technician and he told me he could fix it. I dont quite know what he did but when I collected the key the next day it worked just fine. Please what could be the problem and what can I do to solve it. Thanks

I know this is quite late. I did not get a notification to this thread. Out of curiosity, I clicked on the last link to this thread from my inbox.


There are two aspects to this issue:

Key might be out of sync

or

PSE Control Module might have developed a fault


Re-synchronise your key

*Insert your remote key into the ignition and position it to the ON sector
*Remove the key
*Press the LOCK and leave it held
*With the LOCK held, push the UNLOCK five times
*Release the LOCK
*Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button (any one of the keys).


Pneumatic System Door Lock Control Module (PSE Control Module)

This module controls the manifold vacuum assist, central locking system,theft deterent system and maybe something else that I have left out. It is usually located at the rear panel adjacent to the right brake light. It is foam padded. It's shape is like a scalene triangle (90 degrees) that resembles a trapezoid. Remove the PSE module from the foam and disconnect all the connectors. Diagnosis begins at this point for all operational functions. This type of diagnosis and repair is of two phases: the electrical and the pneumatic. The technician should be experienced in this manner of skill. One without prior MB experience can still perform service to the module in question: he will need the electrical and pneumatic blueprint. A person familiar with the problem can resolve it in less time.

A few caution:

* Do NOT replace the module. You will need MB hand-held tool to adapt the module to your vehicle.
* If you have to replace the module due to it being damaged beyond repair, additional steps are required to version-code it to your vehicle using the appropriate tools.
* Search for the schematics. I'm pretty sure you can get it online.

Sleek Reek: I need expert advice,i have a 2005 Benz C230 Kompressor that is indicating service B required in 20 days,my problem is what type of Oil should i use for the servicing and also i want to shange out the coolant which type should i use?

In the nutshell, Service A aka 10,000 mile service is basically oil changes and some inspections that aren't necessary needed. Needless inspections as in:



Service A is 1 hour, Service B is 2 hours, Service C is 3 hours and so on. Each iteration of the alphabet represents the hours. Service H will be 8 hours.


These are Mercedes Benz service checklist

http://www.usautomotive.biz/Flexible_Service_System.html


The checklist should not intimidate you. If you carefully go through it, you should be able to sniff-through and identify what makes the checklist bloated.


Re - Coolant:

If you backtrack on this thread, you will see the post where a particular formulation of coolant is stated (an attached .pdf). It'll be best to educate yourself on that: not only for your Benz but subsequent cars (and Benzes if you continue within the brand). I would have given you the post ID but for some reason beyond any clue, the forum omitted this subtle feature.

hi, ive been an observer of this thread and i must commend u guys. i recently got an ml430 1999 which had some issues that i resolved except one. there are times when after switching off the ignition all the lights on the dash board come on and it refuses to start thereafter unless some fuses are taken in out and in (f16 & f 22).ive had serveral ppl check it but no one seems to know it behaves so. i however suspect it may have something to do with d security in d car as d remote key doesnt work. can somein pls explain wahts happening?

davidhoop: hi, ive been an observer of this thread and i must commend u guys. i recently got an ml430 1999 which had some issues that i resolved except one. there are times when after switching off the ignition all the lights on the dash board come on and it refuses to start thereafter unless some fuses are taken in out and in (f16 & f 22).ive had serveral ppl check it but no one seems to know it behaves so. i however suspect it may have something to do with d security in d car as d remote key doesnt work. can somein pls explain wahts happening?

My response to Biyala's issue is the closest (PSE control Module) to what your issue is. If all is well with your PSE, then you need to examine every area the PSE works with. This is an electrical matter and I'm not really big on electrical issues, so I usually skip them. There are circuits that work with the PSE; the central lights, the windshield defogger, and some other misc.

thanks trac, however i would just like to know if you can refer me to someone who is vast in the electrical aspects

davidhoop: thanks trac, however i would just like to know if you can refer me to someone who is vast in the electrical aspects

Frankly, I don't know anyone to assist you on that; others can assist you on that.

[b][/b]hello trac!

have been following this thread and from wat hv seen i should commend ur effort.

i own a mercedes w203 c320 2001 model and am having some issues:

1) i do have a constant battery drain when car is parked. have traced everywhere including the seat control modules as advised from different forums but to no avail. my electrician has done all he could but still a flat battery every morning

2) similar to mr Tweex u helped, i still have the same ESP/BAS/ABS not available error. dunno how to go about that issue.

3) i have fuel pump issues for which i bought a bosch w203 fuel pump, but i guess i bought a fake one as the performance of my car is crap. i observe that if am in traffic for a while with the AC on i get an error code "CONSUMER VOLTAGE UNDER DEFECTIVE". dis happens at 500rev/min, however if i maintain a 1000rpm the battery sign with that error code goes off? my question is dat could it be the performance of the engine affects the charging system that i turn shows that error code?


thanks in advance.

hello mr Trac/ Sienna
please i need your help in analysing peugeot 806 2000 model atomatic i like the car but i need real expert details so as not to regret after buying the car.
its a little urgnet though kindly oblige me. am grateful here is my email emmyz03@gmail.com. and every contribution is welcome .
thanks in anticipation of ur responses

hi Trac,
quite an age i might say.wondering why you havent been active here with the rich knowledge you are sharing with fellow NL and outside this forum.is there any other medium you can be reached outside NL? i have some questions i need answers to on the AMG models and would be happy to get these answers.i can be reached via okiemute@gmail.com.
rdgs

Does anyone here use the ML350?

Guys,

Been reading this thread from page 0 (up to page 5), I'm trying to work out from the house the most competent garages in Lagos when it comes to Mercedes ML 430. Any contacts please?

Seems this wonderful thread is fizzling out. Too bad. Just hope I get a response. My wife wants a merc and am thinking of a c-class in the range of 180/200/230 from 2000 to 2003 model. Anybody got any idea about particular issues with them

charlesu69: [b][/b]hello trac!

have been following this thread and from wat hv seen i should commend ur effort.

i own a mercedes w203 c320 2001 model and am having some issues:

1) i do have a constant battery drain when car is parked. have traced everywhere including the seat control modules as advised from different forums but to no avail. my electrician has done all he could but still a flat battery every morning

2) similar to mr Tweex u helped, i still have the same ESP/BAS/ABS not available error. dunno how to go about that issue.

3) i have fuel pump issues for which i bought a bosch w203 fuel pump, but i guess i bought a fake one as the performance of my car is crap. i observe that if am in traffic for a while with the AC on i get an error code "CONSUMER VOLTAGE UNDER DEFECTIVE". dis happens at 500rev/min, however if i maintain a 1000rpm the battery sign with that error code goes off? my question is dat could it be the performance of the engine affects the charging system that i turn shows that error code?


thanks in advance.

Charles,

This is my understanding:

You have a voltage distribution problem or high voltage distribution error. You will need a volt amp tester with load resistance integrated into it to probe the alternator. There is a procedure checking the regulation voltage of the battery and alternator on MB's and extreme caution has to be taken. This test will narrow out the culprit (either a bad or unspecified battery, a failing alternator or a hypothesis that a short has occurred somewhere). The alternator aspect would be the most challenging because there are other areas within this department to look out for. The technician/mechanic would need to use a blueprint diagram for this if he is not thoroughly knowledgeable about the layouts . I am not sure if the seat problem is related to the voltage distribution setup but it is best to have that issue resolved first and see what happens next. What I have in mind makes the entire issue far complicated and I don't believe it has to do with your case for there are pressing problems in existence and would need to be resolved.

I hope you got your brake family issue resolved. If you did not, reset your wheel angle sensor and BAS.

There are certain services in a Merc that require a reset. There are also certain services that will require the part replaced to be hard-coded to that very car using the MB handtool. This is why certain parts should not be replaced but fixed. Either of the two conditions when omitted will cause the vehicle not to run right or not work at all; even worse, cause a chain-reaction or conjure other problems.

I honestly will recommend that you find a specialist that specialises a Mercedes Benz alone. If you can't find one (due to the "market" ), you can settle for a specialist that works on Merc's, BMW and Audi's. This is because the approach dealing with Mercedes gas vehicles is fundamentally different from other vehicles I have encounted. Everything has to be done right lest it doesn't work and the ECU will guarantee that you'll be returning to resolve the pending issues.

You'll also have to check the v-belt for wear (poly belt). This could be another culprit. In some cases, the alternator may not be bad but the backup fuse (which is a cheaper fix minus the diagnostic charges). If the voltage is higher than what is acceptable, problems will be reflected.


All the best.

emmyz09: hello mr Trac/ Sienna
please i need your help in analysing peugeot 806 2000 model atomatic i like the car but i need real expert details so as not to regret after buying the car.
its a little urgnet though kindly oblige me. am grateful here is my email emmyz03@gmail.com. and every contribution is welcome .
thanks in anticipation of ur responses

Funny enough, I don't know the car you are talking about. I am not a professional and I don't like cars; just the engineering and selected models. Siena will be able to help you , for he is a professional and has experience with a wide range of vehicles.

tedanne: hi Trac,
quite an age i might say.wondering why you havent been active here with the rich knowledge you are sharing with fellow NL and outside this forum.is there any other medium you can be reached outside NL? i have some questions i need answers to on the AMG models and would be happy to get these answers.i can be reached via okiemute@gmail.com.
rdgs

Tedanne,

I am actually not a social butterfly and I get on NL when I see a notification in my inbox. I rarely check my inbox as well because I rarely get e-mails. I will answer your AMG questions (if it is within my understanding) here if it's trivial. If the nature is quite sensitive, I will shoot you an e-mail in response. Also keep in mind that I am almost clueless about the current AMG models because they are new and my interest shyed away from MB's years ago. However, I am still an AMG enthusiast for a four-door sedan. I am just unimpressed with how it turned out to be when Mercedes acquired the entire division and quality issues went down.

Are you planning on buying one? Half the fun is hunting for one.

Ngutor: Seems this wonderful thread is fizzling out. Too bad. Just hope I get a response. My wife wants a merc and am thinking of a c-class in the range of 180/200/230 from 2000 to 2003 model. Anybody got any idea about particular issues with them

You'll only have to worry about quality/build issues and misc.

Seun: Does anyone here use the ML350?

Do you plan to buy or you own one? If you are in the market for one, I'll recommend the bluetec (I presume you were referring to the gas model) or the 550. It is smoother and overall, a keeper. The 350 is a sectioned=off V8 and rough by nature and I'm sure will get louder as it ages which will be obvious (the 320 does). Since it is an after-thought, certain issues will arise; and have already arisen and it is expensive. The difference in miles per gallon between the 350 and 550 is one. So fuel consumption cannot be in choice. The technical recipe and reward for the bluetec is very seductive. Torque is enormous and very usable (especially when you need it). Longevity also is appealing.

Hey all. Am a newbie wit no prof expertise benz. Well, I just got my 1996 c class. My ist challenge is my owners manual is in german. Plz any1 who can help an english pdf shd pm me @ deleonipede@gmail.com. Tanx

jahjehova: Hey all. Am a newbie wit no prof expertise benz. Well, I just got my 1996 c class. My ist challenge is my owners manual is in german. Plz any1 who can help an english pdf shd pm me @ deleonipede@gmail.com. Tanx

I have English C-280 owner's manual in soft copy- I am sure it would be quite useful to you, since the basics are the same, aside the engine.

its about 1.5MB size, how do I upload here?

kuntash:


I have English C-280 owner's manual in soft copy- I am sure it would be quite useful to you, since the basics are the same, aside the engine.

its about 1.5MB size, how do I upload here?

tanx bro plz send it as an attachment to my mail, deleonipede@gmail.com. If you are on FB plz add me as friend - Onipede Bamidele Oluwagbenga. 4 starter, how do I get oil 4 my ist service. Tanx.

jahjehova:
tanx bro plz send it as an attachment to my mail, deleonipede@gmail.com. If you are on FB plz add me as friend - Onipede Bamidele Oluwagbenga. 4 starter, how do I get oil 4 my ist service. Tanx.

check ur email, call me for the recommended synthetic oil as well, dont use the wrong weight of oil 4 ur ride o

all d best

Ngutor: Seems this wonderful thread is fizzling out. Too bad. Just hope I get a response. My wife wants a merc and am thinking of a c-class in the range of 180/200/230 from 2000 to 2003 model. Anybody got any idea about particular issues with them

Was in love with m.benz until I stumbled across this. www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/mercedes_c230.html

fastlane84:


Was in love with m.benz until I stumbled across this. www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/mercedes_c230.html

seem a vague reason not to love or have a benz... pls did you bother to check the site to the end to see the overall ratings?

@ Ngutor, pls go for the C-class 2000 model, its a good ride, however, if you are the type that would allow mechanics and rewire (inexperienced) to carry out try and errors with your vehicles, pls keep clear.

Mercedes Benz is good, I keep regretting why I didnt get my own as tokunbo, because I ended up repairing lots of things to original status, bottom line is whatever challenge you would get with this ride, its 90% or more caused by incompetent workmen

kuntash:


check ur email, call me for the recommended synthetic oil as well, dont use the wrong weight of oil 4 ur ride o

all d best

Tanx bro. I got ur mail. I'd giv U a kal soonest. Tanx

fastlane84:


Was in love with m.benz until I stumbled across this. www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/mercedes_c230.html

That MB's in that review is not the same model generation as what you have. New and different philosophies were implemented that wasn't implemented in the generation you have. MB went lean-engineering and though tremendous profits were earned, loyal customers and reputation was lost. There is a lot not to like about those C Classes reviewed. Once you understand the science behind MB engines and can work on the engines, you will find it very difficult to switch vehicle brands. They are just different and other engines just seem inferior to you. The chassis elastic is another. Their chassis technology is nothing I have seen outside of the racing world. Another interesting chassis compilation is what's found in the 911's.

@ Trac/Seina/Kuntash
I currently drive a Camry 2001 xle which is about 2 years now. Outside of the fuel consumption urban (being V6) and perhaps a marked increased fuel consumption with the AC, it has been an excellent companion. Just for a change am considering buying a C class 1997-1999. My present Camry has a horse power of 194 and the C class(1997-1999)that come close to that are the 230 compressor and the C 280(V6). Trac had said one should avoid the turbocharged and the V6; thus my first concern. And again, a friend advised that I should avoid the ones that come without keys and have airflow (honestly I don't understand what he was saying)that they come with very serious electrical problem and more worrisome most of our mechanics don't understand their workings. He suggested I buy one with a normal engine. Please guys I need expert advice. Thank you and happy new year. Cheers!!!

Faru: @ Trac/Seina/Kuntash
I currently drive a Camry 2001 xle which is about 2 years now. Outside of the fuel consumption urban (being V6) and perhaps a marked increased fuel consumption with the AC, it has been an excellent companion. Just for a change am considering buying a C class 1997-1999. My present Camry has a horse power of 194 and the C class(1997-1999)that come close to that are the 230 compressor and the C 280(V6). Trac had said one should avoid the turbocharged and the V6; thus my first concern. And again, a friend advised that I should avoid the ones that come without keys and have airflow (honestly I don't understand what he was saying)that they come with very serious electrical problem and more worrisome most of our mechanics don't understand their workings. He suggested I buy one with a normal engine. Please guys I need expert advice. Thank you and happy new year. Cheers!!!

Firstly, let me state that I sold my camry just over a yr ago when I embraced the Benz tech and drive feel, all of a sudden, you feel as if u are driving smthn quite reliable... that particular model of c-class- 98-2000 models are superb, especially the C280(V6)... even in terms of fuel efficiency, its great as well.

I believe cars are used depending of your needs, I am also of the school of thought.. that believes in getting more in driving than just fuel consumption, and second hand resale value which many people often consider before choosing a car of choice

Generally German cars hardly tolerate incompetent electricians, and mechanic, however, if u can maintain a car regularly they are reliable and it would serve you well, there is nothing wrong with the non-metal key starting ur friend is referring to... it all still boils down to your maintenance culture and competence in your engineers (rewire & mech). I wonder what ur friend would say about the thumb start keys in some rides.

Suffice it to add too that the parts of that stated yr of c-class is by far cheaper than that of a camry... parts that are prone to being damaged by bad roads, Okada, danfo etc.... I am referring to shocks, rear lights, pointers, side mirrors etc..

all the best!

trac/kuntash/siena and co,
how good is the Merc CLK 430? Wanted to purchase it before i got my 323ci, but the price was a tick away from what i could afford (it just had to be one in a first-rate condition)... and also i got my eyes on the BMW. But i stil cherish it and hope to own it some day...
Its a V8, how's the performance and handling compared to the W203?