ahmstrng:
Been following this thread for a while. I own an accord 2009 v6. Noticed the check engine was always on. Had it scanned and I realized the thermostat was removed. Got a new one after reading on this thread as to how important it is. Just want to say thank to all the real mechs here. Now my question is basically me trying to know how best to maintain the car all round. I have serviced it once since purchase which was 2 months ago . With total qwat 5000. The mechanics say the gear all is still good but isnt gaged. Any recommendations? And i want to know if it’s normal for the eco mode to go on and off depending on how im accelerating cause i read it online and i see people complaining as to how it affects their engine. I’ll like to be educated on how best to maintain the car

GAZZUZZ:


Did you buy this vehicle Nigerian used. If yes, do not be in a hurry to switch engine oils to the recommended specifications to avoid engine damage.

ahmstrng:

No. Its foreign used. But the car dealer definitely serviced it. Like they do to their other cars too

GAZZUZZ:


Start with 5w30 synth blend for 3000miles drain interval and see how the engine takes it. If no oil burn and no erratic oil colour change, then you can do full or blend 5w20

tolajay:
Great!

Can you share the list?

ahmstrng:

Liqui moly 5w20 was recommended. I dont know when or if to make the switch. Since i just serviced few weeks back

GAZZUZZ:


What's done is done, keep observing . As long as previous owner kept to strict oil change intervals with the right oil weights you will be fine.

Johnsonkeyz2019:


[/b]SOME FEW THINGS TO CHECK WHEN GETTING A TOKUNBO OR USED CAR/VEHICLES[b]

Engine i4/ V6 sound , fumes, Adaptor, Acceleration (By Seller)

Gear selection transmission (By Driving)

Car legs ArmS , Balancing


Security 

Alarm System

Handbrake

Engine seats

All Fans (2 Radiator) Compressor e.t.c

Car alignment 

Car full light /Brake light

Check Engine Light

Check Central Lock (whether key locks Central and winds Glass)

AC working/not

CUSTOM PAPers*

Leather interior /Central Locks/ MILEAGE

CD/ Radio/ Speaker Sound*

Power Door ... Power Windows 

Wipers ...water pressors 

Check Absorber while driving 

Adjustable Seats and Steering

Open all Trunks Booth and Bonnet, Fuel Tank


C Caution, Fire Extinguisher,  Car Jack, Wheel spanner, Extra Tyre, 

Car receipt , Car Documents e.t.c

weyreypey:

Liquimoly contact midoda

missybol:
Good day All, I got these error code p0325 and p0496 on myhonda crv 2005, the check engine light is on. What is the best way to fix this (have read a couple of things online and can see it has different causes and fix options) and any good workshop on the mainland that can help fix it. Thanks

Conner44:


Did you get it as a 9ja used? Do you know the year it was imported? What oil the previous user(s) used?

Open the oil filler cap and look under it, is there sludge? Look into your engine’s valve through the oil hole, do you see sludge?

If you didn’t see any sludge in your engines top then you can try the recommended oil but a conventional type (Mobil 5w30 black cover) and new filter to first check for leaks and smoking ... drive for a while (3k kilometers) park overnight and in the morning check if the oil level dropped.

If there’s no drop in the oil level then you can decide to switch to the synthetic oil your engine recommends.

Remember to observe your oil level as you drive. It’s important. Also you can check your transmission oil too. If it’s still gauged smells okay and looks pinkish clear then leave it but if it seems dark and smells burnt then just purchase 3ltrs of the recommended DW1 transmission, drain 3 ltrs of your oil in the gear and replace with the new ones you bought. You can also get a new transmission filter too or clean out the old one along with the gear solenoids as you change the fluids.

sirleke:
I appreciate boss

Yes!got it a 9ja used
Was bought 2014 by the previous owner as toks.....former owner was using Q5000..


No sludge

Conner44:


Then follow the details outlined in my post to rejuvenate your engine and enjoy the full power of your I-VTEC yo!

ahmstrng:

Any proper guide or maintenance process suggestions for me. Accord 2010 v6

Conner44:



That’s a wonderful car that gives no issue (the 4cyl version sha) if it’s the V6 .... then you need to pop your hood and look at your engine.

Is it a VCM type? If it has Variable Cylinder Management technology then there’s a slight problem if you wish to keep that car for more than 5 years straight.

VCM is a technology created by Honda to minimize fuel consumption and improve its mpg but it comes with its own wahala.

How this VCM works is by shutting down some cylinders in the engine when when you’re either stopped at a red light or cruising lightly around town. It allows only half the cylinders to run when you’re slow and activated the remaining cylinders when you step on the accelerator to move faster. While this is a nice feature of the Honda J series V6 engine it can cause issues for the engine in the long run by allowing half of your engine run HOT and the other half running COLD most of the time in city stop and go traffic which will cause catastrophic damage to your engine after a few miles down the road.

In order to reduce wear and tear on your engine do the following religiously,

1. Only use synthetic oil and change before 5000 kilometers on your odometer

2. Change all your spark plugs at least once a year

3. If you really want to enjoy your car for decades without worrying about your engine knocking because of the VCM then you can invest in a ‘VCM DELETE’ (google vcm muzzler). This piece of equipment will disable the engines VCM feature and allow all your cylinders to be firing ast all times. This won’t affect your fuel consumption above ~1mpg but will maintain steady temperatures throughout your engine thereby bypassing all the issues that VCM may bring up in the future PLUS you’d immediately feel a better response in your card throttle actuation as you drive.

Read up on the links below for more insight. The Honda Odyssey and Pilot also use the same type of engine too. For me I’d still buy a Honda V6 VCM J-Series engine ride but I’d definitely disable its VCM functionality immediately I do so I can use it with peace of mind.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/is-the-vcm-on-honda-accord-v6s-a-problem-area.255602/

https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/are-the-vcm-problems-corrected-in-generation-9-v6-ex-l-sedans.358690/

https://www.odyclub.com/threads/my-experience-with-vcm-and-engine-failure.272586/

ahmstrng:

Is there any difference between vcm delete and removing the thermostat of the car. Excuse my ignorance. When i got the car. The thermostat was absent. The check engine light was always on cause of it. Because of that. The eco mode never comes on and the engine was always working at max capacity and yes. I feel it when I accelerate too. Its sharp. After advice from the forum. I got a thermostat to it. And the check engine cleared. Immediately it did my eco mode came back on and i noticed the car doesn’t accelerate as much as before anymore unless i step hard on the throttle. Could that be what you mean? And no. With the thermostat absent before. It doesnt over heat at all. I’ll love to hear your response on this

ahmstrng:

Is there any difference between vcm delete and removing the thermostat of the car. Excuse my ignorance. When i got the car. The thermostat was absent. The check engine light was always on cause of it. Because of that. The eco mode never comes on and the engine was always working at max capacity and yes. I feel it when I accelerate too. Its sharp. After advice from the forum. I got a thermostat to it. And the check engine cleared. Immediately it did my eco mode came back on and i noticed the car doesn’t accelerate as much as before anymore unless i step hard on the throttle. Could that be what you mean? And no. With the thermostat absent before. It doesnt over heat at all. I’ll love to hear your response on this

Slickleo:
Greetings all, I drive a 2009 Honda Civic r18 8th gen I notice all my engine oil changes with filter dat d 4 ltrs don't gauge up to full on dipstick jst slight above middle.
PL is it normal as service manual calls for 4ltrs


@ Gazzuzz, radautoworks, blackbishop, nurey and other gurus

Conner44:


Oh nice. You’re lucky that only the absent thermostat caused your check engine light. You’re in luck bro.

Just leave the thermostat in the car and never take it out EVER AGAIN. it’s supposed to be in there.

Now that eco mode light is exactly what shows on your dash once your VCM is active, it come on and off erratically and causes your ride to be slow to throttle response when it’s on just to conserve energy. While the eco light is on half your cylinders have shut down and this is what causes rapid cylinder piston & rings wear on your engine (especially if you’re using 20W50 vegetable oil in your car).

For eco mode/VCM to engage your engine has to reach a certain proper temperature to activate and this temperature can only be reached when your thermostat is in play. Now what this VCM Muzzler does is to ‘trick’ your cars ecu/computer into believing your car is still running ~2 degrees centigrade lower than the recommended one for the car thereby not allowing the cars computer to activate the vehicles VCM functions at all.

Please never take out that thermostat ever again and instead purchase the VCM muzzler and install it in your engine. It’s pretty easy to do as a diy or by an auto electrician too.

So basically you should get a VCM muzzler to achieve the full potential of your engine without any downsides at all if you want steady power to your wheels without cause if any engine damage while still maintaining your car’s mpg.

Conner44:


Oh nice. You’re lucky that only the absent thermostat caused your check engine light. You’re in luck bro.

Just leave the thermostat in the car and never take it out EVER AGAIN. it’s supposed to be in there.

Now that eco mode light is exactly what shows on your dash once your VCM is active, it come on and off erratically and causes your ride to be slow to throttle response when it’s on just to conserve energy. While the eco light is on half your cylinders have shut down and this is what causes rapid cylinder piston & rings wear on your engine (especially if you’re using 20W50 vegetable oil in your car).

For eco mode/VCM to engage your engine has to reach a certain proper temperature to activate and this temperature can only be reached when your thermostat is in play. Now what this VCM Muzzler does is to ‘trick’ your cars ecu/computer into believing your car is still running ~2 degrees centigrade lower than the recommended one for the car thereby not allowing the cars computer to activate the vehicles VCM functions at all.

Please never take out that thermostat ever again and instead purchase the VCM muzzler and install it in your engine. It’s pretty easy to do as a diy or by an auto electrician too.

So basically you should get a VCM muzzler to achieve the full potential of your engine without any downsides at all if you want steady power to your wheels without cause if any engine damage while still maintaining your car’s mpg.

ahmstrng:

I understand. Was that the effect they were trying to achieve before that made them remove the thermostat? Surprisingly enough With the absent thermostat i never faced any issue or is it in a long run damage?

Conner44:


No bro, tat was never the reason. Our 9ja kazeem don’t know what VCM even means self so they took out your thermostat ignorantly.

The damage will occur rapidly without your thermostat in the engine.

The short run could be from 3-5 years using 20W50 engine oil and the long run will be around 5-7 years using recommended fluids WITHOUT YOUR THERMOSTAT IN THE ENGINE.

So unless you plan to use your ride for only 3 - 5 years and sell off with engine palava then take out the thermostat and continue using it like that.

The damage on the J series VCM engine occurs because of UNEVEN ENGINE CYLINDER TEMPERATURES and only your thermostat can mitigate such an occurrence.

Choose your poison well

ahmstrng:

I understand you now. But like i said in my second post. After installing the thermostat. The check engine light was still on. It was only after an electrician went under the car and taped some few things. It was only then the check engine light went off. Cause after scanning with the computer after i replaced the thermostat. It kept saying a sensor wasn’t present. Until the electrician taped something under the car. Thats when it went off. So what i asked if basically. Can i go back to electrician. And have him revert what he did. Cause the thermostat was present. And the check engine was on before he fixed taped something

Conner44:


Let me understand you clearly, are the below the steps you and the mechanic followed?

1. You said you first had the check engine light

2. Then you replaced the thermostat

3. Then the CEL was still on

4. Then you scanned and got codes for the sensor

5. Then mechanic replaced some sensors but didn’t send the CEL away

6. Then he went underneath the car and did something

7. Then the CEL went away

8. Then you took your car happily home

Okay good now for my question...

Did the mechanic scan the car again after step 6?

For what it’s worth Honda actually created the car to run with the VCM/eco mode active, so what you’re trying to do by asking me all these questions is to try and cancel your active VCM by deleting your thermostat WHICH IS 100% WRONG... don’t even think of it again.

I already told you, leave the thermostat in your engine and use your car that way with the VCM/eco mode active for as long as you own that car and follow the maintenance system I posted a few spots above so you can enjoy your car for as long as desired without any issues.

Going back to revert anything your electrician did might spell doom for the engine especially if you’re not sure what he did after step 6 above. Go back and ask him what he did to make your CEL go off first then we can know if it had anything to do with the VCM of your car.

ahmstrng:

Exactly. I have no idea what he did in step 6. But thats basically how the cel went off. I’ll try and ask him what he did. But the funny thing is they dont want to talk. As per its something like a trade secret

Conner44:



Then go somewhere else and pay for ONLY a scan and bring any codes you see back here.

That’s the next step you’d take.

ahmstrng:

Ok I’ll go there. Is it possible for the computer to display error codes without check engine light being on

Conner44:


Yes it is possible. In your cars ecu there’s both Automatic transmission, abs and srs codes plus temporary codes too that may or may not have been fixed/cleared properly. The scan will reveal all.

Some dubious auto mechanics and electrical technicians also disable or block the CEL light from illuminating too.

ahmstrng:

Oh. I’ll go have it scanned in an hour or so.
I also noticed. Contrary to what i see online and what you said. My eco mode doesnt come on when im in a slow traffic. It only comes after I accelerate and release the pedal. When the rpm drops bellow 2. Thats when it comes on. I could be going from 40kmph to 100. And it wont come on. But as soon as I release the pedal and the rpm drops below 2. Even if the speed is still at 80kmph plus. It’ll display the eco more. Is that how its supposed to run?