Everyone remembers that "new car smell" that comes with any newly acquired vehicle. Notwithstanding, there are other specific odors that motorists should never ignore. Identifying these suspect smells early on can help car owners be car care aware and avoid the hassle and expense of an unexpected breakdown.

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Unfamiliar smells can be the sign of serious, and potentially expensive , trouble for your vehicle. By acting quickly and making necessary repairs, you’ll be able to breathe easy knowing there is no harmful damage to your car,”

it is recommended a sniff test is done on your vehicle to identify any unusual smells, including the following warning signs:

1. Burnt rubber smell

This could be slipping drive belts or misplaced loose hoses that might be rubbing against rotating accessory drive pulleys. Do not reach in if the engine compartment is hot.

2. Hot oil odor

This could mean oil is leaking onto the exhaust system To verify the leak, look for oil on the pavement or smoke coming from the engine area.

3. The smell of gasoline

This likely the sign of a gas leak in some area of the vehicle such as a fuel injector line or the fuel tank. Any smell of fuel can result in a possible fire hazard, so immediate attention should be given.

4. The sweet smell of syrup

it may be a sign that your car is leaking engine coolant from a leaky component related to the car’s cooling system. Do not open the radiator cap when it is hot.

5. The smell of burning carpet

This could be a sign of brake trouble and a safety hazard. Have your brakes checked right away, especially if this smell is happening during normal driving conditions.

6. The smell of rotten eggs
It is never a good one and, if you smell it coming from your vehicle, it could mean a problem with your catalytic converter not converting the hydrogen sulfide in the exhaust to sulfur dioxide properly. This smell can also be attributed to a poor running engine, causing the catalytic converter to become overloaded and fail due to meltdown.

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“When you smell any peculiar odor, you should not ignore it. Instead bring your vehicle to a professional service technician that you trust to get an informed opinion on the nature of the odor,”

ATF- DW for Honda

aristosoft:


Thanks. I am about changing transmission oil. Which model do you recommend? Honda Accord 2006 Automatic.
Also, sometimes all the Gear position lights go off. Sometimes, P and D comes on when i start the car but the D later goes off.

Please, what could be the problem

Engine knocking refers to the metallic sound an engine can produce when pressure is applied to the gas pedal. The noise may be a hollow knocking sound or more of a rattling sound—in either case, it's not a sound you want to hear

By that definition we want to use the avenue to dispel the statement by local mechanics that a knocked engine means a spoilt engine.

Various types of engine knocking causes are there, and the sounds of knocking differ from each other based on the source of the cause. Engine knock detection is necessary for solving the engine knock problems,you can address the problem by detecting the root of the noise.

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The three most common causes of engine knock are:


Using Low-Quality Fuel

A great number of the filling stations in the country sell Sub-par gasoline and this can increase the cylinder pressure and chamber temperature. we don't want to get too technical but the octane rating of fuel represents the level of compression it can tolerate. A fuel with a higher rating can resist the combustion better.

So, using low-quality gasoline in the engine causes engine knock by being burnt earlier than it should (burning fast). Low engine compression causes the fuel to burn incompletely. As a result, remaining fuel components and compounds create debris that sticks to the inside of the chamber. This buildup causes engine knock in the cylinder, however purchasing quality fuel treatment and using it every time you buy fuel can help counter this issue.


Debris Formation on the Cylinder Walls

As mentioned earlier using sub-par gasoline creates debris in the engine cylinder. Once the debris starts to build, they don’t stop.

The engine needs to mix up air and fuel to function normally. But, the debris formation takes up valuable engine space, creating an obstruction for the engine to work properly. The bigger the debris deposit, the higher the compression will be in the cylinder; which will eventually cause knocking if the compression is not on a par with the engine’s temperature ranges or the quality of the fuel.

Using Wrong Spark Plugs

The experts identify it as one of the most common engines knocking causes. Spark plugs help to control the internal environment of an engine. As they function under precise conditions, you have to use the ones exactly what the manufacturer has recommended.

Many people often buy the wrong ones for they either misread the user manual or try to save on a cheaper alternative. So, using the wrong plugs will cause debris formation in the combustion chamber and improper engine temperature. These two conditions, as we already know, are the two leading causes of engine knock.

Other engine knocking causes are also related to these three primary reasons for engine knocking problems for example

- High engine temperature (over heating),
- Worn rings and valve seals,
- Bad knock sensor,
- Greasy injectors,
- Defective main crankshaft bearings
- A cracked or broken flywheel or flex-plate that attaches the engine to the transmission
- A worn water pump bearing
- A failed or loose timing belt tensioner can knock when the timing belt slaps against it
- An air conditioning compressor can knock when it is failing or icing up
- An alternator with worn rotor bearings can knock when the pistons fire


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Remember that you have to find out the root source of the problem to solve it correctly.

Unless you plan on driving your car with the bonnet up , what exactly is the point of a spotless engine?

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People always debate whether steam cleaning engines is a necessary part of car maintenance. to be candid we will say that it is necessary, but not mandatory.

What are its advantages and disadvantages? Read on and find out.

Advantages of Steam Cleaning Engines

- Steam cleaning significantly reduces the incidence of accidents brought about by engine fire.

- It can extend the overall life of the car engine. A clean and well-maintained engine is safe from rusting and clogging which may affect and reduce the performance and longevity of an engine.

- Early detection.Through this process, the source of any type of fluid leaks can be identified. Most engine fires are attributed to unidentified leaks which could have been prevented through early detection. But how could the leaks be detected if the engine is covered with mud and grime?
- It can improve the engine’s appearance and increase its resale value. Some people believe that cleaning a car’s engine is an attempt to mask its defects. We think otherwise. A clean car engine sends this message: this car is well-maintained, loved and protected, so it will be beautiful and functional for a longer period of time.

Disadvantages of Steam Cleaning Engines

Electric Control Systems: Improperly done, steam cleaning can damage the electronic engine controls. This is why sufficient knowledge on how to perform engine steam cleaning is highly recommended.

Ignition System: A car’s ignition system is composed of ignition coils, cables and the spark plugs. All these components are sensitive to water. If these components get damaged during steam cleaning, a car’s functionality and longevity may be affected. Not to mention that you will need to spend money for replacing the system.

Air-Intake System: An automobile air intake system has three main parts: air filter, mass flow sensor, and throttle body. This system is generally resistant to steam cleaning. However, improper use of high-pressure steam can disconnect ductwork. If this happens, water can get to the engine thereby affecting its performance.

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As we have stated steam cleaning a car’s engine has its own set of pros and cons. Among the pros are: safety, longevity, early detection and beauty. The downside is that it might affect the different systems that are essential to a car’s functionality and longevity. whether you decide to do it or not is entirely up to you, but from us at Autofreeman we are saying to you Please Rest....lol

After spending a good 4 hours in traffic the day before, you get home, the next day you go ahead to start your car, and when it does start, it lets of a shrieking sound that wakes up the rest of the neighborhood. Ever experienced this before?

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Noises are your vehicle’s way of communicating with you. Ignore your vehicle’s message too long and it could lead to a breakdown and a big repair bill.

Here are some answers to the most common questions about vehicle noises and what they mean.


Shrieking Sound when the car is started

Most likely your drive belt is loose or slack. When this occurs, it gives off a high pitch noise to warn you that your belt, pulley, or tensioner needs attention. Have them checked out sooner rather than later before expensive damage or brake failure occurs.

Squealing or scraping sound when brakes are applied

Most likely your brake pads are worn and allowing their wear indicators or sensor to touch the disc brake rotor. When this occurs, the sensor emits that high pitch noise to warn you that your brakes need attention. Have them checked out sooner rather than later before expensive damage or brake failure occurs.

knocking or pinging noise when accelerating or climbing a hill/ Slope

This is a sign that the gas and air mixture in your car’s cylinders isn’t burning properly. The sound you hear is the result of the fuel and air mixture combusting unevenly in the cylinder. Pinging or knocking does reduce the efficiency of your engine and over a very long period of time, it can cause damage.


TO READ MORE CLICK ON LINK BELOW:

http://autofreeman.com.ng/2017/02/17/car-noises-and-we-dont-mean-the-good-kind/

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Whether you’re shopping for a used or new car or you already own a vehicle, it’s important to spend time making sure it’s safe.


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To help you better understand what to look for, here are descriptions of features:


Seat Belts

In the event of a crash, seat belts are designed to keep you inside the vehicle. They also reduce the risk that you will collide with the steering wheel, dashboard, or windshield. New seat belt designs have the following additional features that improve seat belt performance:


1. Adjustable upper belts. An adjustable upper belt lets you change the position of the shoulder strap to accommodate a person’s size. This feature may encourage passengers to wear their belts, since it increases shoulder belt comfort.

2. Seat belt pretensioner: Pretensioners retract the seat belt to remove excess slack, almost instantly, in a crash. However, you still need to adjust your seat belt so that it fits as snugly as possible, since pretensioners are not powerful enough to pull you back into your seat in the event of an impact.

3. Energy management features: Energy management features allow seat belts to “give” or yield during a severe crash to prevent forces on the shoulder belt from concentrating too much energy on your chest. These features include “load limiters” built into the shoulder belt retractor and/or “tear stitching” in the webbing that causes the seat belt to extend gradually.

4. Rear center seat lap/shoulder belts: Some manufacturers provide a rear center lap/shoulder belt. This added feature is especially beneficial to older children and children in booster seats who are often seated in the rear center position.



Air Bags

Depending on the speed at impact and the stiffness of the object struck, front air bags inflate to prevent occupants from hitting the dashboard, steering wheel, and windshield. Side air bags reduce the risk that occupants will hit the door or objects that crash through it.

Although air bags provide life-saving benefits for the vast majority of people, there are situations in which air bag deployment can have adverse effects, such as when occupants are unbelted. Front air bags do not eliminate the need for seat belts and are not designed to offer protection in rollovers, rear, or side impacts. In fact, maximum air bag effectiveness depends upon seat belts, which help keep you in place should a collision occur. You can significantly reduce the risk of injury from an air bag by buckling your seat belt and keeping about 10 inches or more between your breastbone and the air bag.

Children can be killed or seriously injured by an air bag, so you should always put children age 12 and under in the rear seat. You should never use a rear-facing child seat in the front seat of a vehicle equipped with a front passenger air bag unless the air bag is off.



Head Injury Protection

Head injury protection consists of foam or other energy absorbing material under the trim of the vehicle interior and is likely to be invisible to vehicle occupants. Some vehicles have head air bags. While all head air bags are designed to deploy in side impacts, some are also designed to deploy during rollovers. Both types of air bags are designed to help protect occupants from injuries caused when their head strikes the upper interior of a vehicle.



Head Restraints

Head restraints are extensions of the vehicle’s seats that limit head movement during a rear-impact crash, thus, reducing the probability of neck injury. Head restraints meeting specific size and strength requirements are required in front seats, but not in rear seats. While you must adjust most head restraints manually, some adjust automatically with changes in seat position or dynamically in a crash. In general, dynamic head restraints provide the best protection.



Antilock Brake System

An antilock brake system (ABS) prevents a vehicle’s wheels from locking during “panic” braking, which allows the driver to maintain greater steering control — a key factor in avoiding a collision. However, an ABS does not guarantee your ability to avoid a crash. Furthermore, you still may lose control when driving at excessive speeds or when using extreme steering maneuvers. Learning to use the ABS correctly will provide you with the greatest benefit from the system.

All passenger cars equipped with ABS have four-wheel ABS. Sport utility vehicles, trucks, and vans equipped with ABS can have either four-wheel or two-wheel ABS. Four-wheel ABS monitor and control all the wheels of the vehicle, while two-wheel ABS only monitor and control the rear wheels of a vehicle.

Some ABS’s also include brake assist, which senses emergency braking by detecting the speed or force at which the driver presses the brake pedal and boosts the power as needed. Under certain conditions, brake assist may reach the braking force needed to activate the ABS more quickly and easily compared with vehicles without brake assist, and can potentially reduce overall stopping distance by eliminating the delay caused by not braking hard enough or soon enough.


Traction Control

Traction control systems improve vehicle stability by controlling the amount the drive wheels can slip when you apply excess power. The system automatically adjusts the engine power output and, in some systems, applies braking force to selected wheels during acceleration. Traction control is mainly found in vehicles with four-wheel antilock brake systems.



All-Wheel Drive

All-wheel drive distributes power to both front and rear wheels to maximize traction. Unless combined with traction control, all-wheel drive systems do not prevent the drive wheels from slipping when you apply excess power during acceleration.



Electronic Stability Control
Electronic stability control (which is offered under various trade names) is designed to assist drivers in maintaining control of their vehicles during extreme steering maneuvers. Electronic stability control senses when a vehicle is starting to spin out (oversteer) or plow out (understeer), and it automatically applies the brake to a single wheel. It is intended to reduce the occurrence of crashes in which vehicles veer off the road and strike curbs, soft shoulders, guard rails and other objects that initiate rollovers. However, it can’t keep a vehicle on the road if its speed is simply too great for the curve and the available traction.


Weight
Crash data show that heavy vehicles offer more protection than light vehicles with the same safety equipment, particularly in two-vehicle crashes.

we hope you have learned something, Lets be Safe today.

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When something goes wrong with your car or if a feature you should know about gets activated, a signal funnels through the electrical system and into the dashboard. This illuminates a hieroglyphic, and these cover a wide range of issues—some of which may be serious. Here are the meanings behind 15 of these curious-looking markers (and what they look like, in case you need a mnemonic device to help your memory).

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Your dashboard may be different and the symbols may have altered designs or indicate slightly different things, so be sure to consult your owner’s manual. Some of these lights could portend a serious malfunction. Don't ignore them. When in doubt, have a professional check it out.




1. Engine Temperature Warning Light

What it means: Your engine is too hot/ is over heating/ or is low on coolant.



2. Tire Pressure Warning Light

What it means: The pressure in one or more of your tires is too low and needs to be attended to.



3. Oil Pressure Warning

What it means: Your engine is running low on oil, or there is a problem with your car's oil pressure system.



4. Traction Control

What it means: The car's traction control system is engaged.



5. Engine Warning

What it means: It can blink on for a number of reasons.


1. Your Oxygen (O2) Sensor needs replacing

Your oxygen sensor measures the amount of unburned oxygen in your vehicle's exhaust system.

What if I don't replace it?

- Your engine will burn more fuel than needed
- You will experience loss of fuel economy (up to 40% if ignored)*
- Faulty sensor(s) can cause damage to your spark plugs and catalytic converter

2. Gas cap is loose, damaged or missing

Your gas cap seals the fuel system and helps maintain pressure within the fuel tank. It also prevents gasoline fumes (hydrocarbons) from being released into the atmosphere while you aren't driving your car.


What if I don't replace it?

- You can lose fuel through evaporation
- You may make more trips to the gas pump

3. Catalytic Converter needs replacing

Your catalytic converter helps protect our environment by converting harmful carbon monoxide into carbon dioxide. Damage usually occurs due to neglected maintenance (reasons # 1, 4, and 5).

What if I don't replace it?

- Your vehicle will not pass an emmissions test
- You will experience reduced performance and fuel economy
- Your car may run at a higher temperature


4. Mass Airflow Sensor needs replacing (MAF)

Your mass airflow sensor measures the amount of air entering the engine to determine how much fuel is needed to run your engine efficiently.

What if I don't replace it?
- Faulty sensors can cause damage to spark plugs, O2 sensors or catalytic converter
- You will experience reduced performance and fuel economy


5. Spark Plugs or Plug Wires need replacing

Your spark plugs ignite the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber of your vehicle. The spark plug wires deliver the spark from the ignition coil to the spark plugs.


What if I don't replace it?

- You will experience poor performance (reduced power, engine missing) and reduced fuel economy
- Worn plugs and plug wires can cause clogged catalytic converter or damage to ignition coils and O2 sensors



6. Anti-lock Brake Warning

What it means: There is an issue with your anti-lock brake system that needs to be diagnosed and fixed.


7. Automatic Shift Lock or Engine Start Indicator

What it means: You need to engage the brake, either to start your car's ignition or to get it out of neutral.


8. Battery Alert

What it means: The car's charging system is short of power (faulty Alternator, or lose of contact at alternator wiring). You are running solely on battery.


9. Fuel Indicator Symbol

What it means: You are running low on fuel. Fun fact: The symbol on the fuel gauge also has an arrow next to it—this indicates which side of the car has the gas cap. No more gas station three-point turns in rental cars ever again.


10. Seatbelt Reminder Light

What it means: Buckle your seatbelt, please.



11. Airbag Indicator

What it means: There may be an issue with one or more of your car's airbags, or the airbag system in general.


12. Fog Lamp Indicator

What it means: Your fog lights are on.



13. Security Light

What it means: You may need a key with the proper transponder in order to trigger the ignition. Or, there is something else wrong with your car's anti-theft system.



14. Traction Control Malfunction

What it means: There is an issue with your anti-skid system, and it may be shut off completely.



15. Washer Fluid Indicator

What it means: The washer fluid level is low. Please fill that up when you get a chance.



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Things change, including the way we use our cars, how we drive them and the condition of our roads. Although normal driving is defined as steady driving in non-extreme weather or environments, for most motorists in our country, being a severe driver is more the rule than the exception.

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Severe driving refers to:

- Stop-and-go traffic
- Short commutes (driving short distances frequetly)
- Heavier loads: cargo, passenger or towing a trailer
- Rough roads
- Dusty environments
- Driving in extremely hot or cold weather

“According to definition, most driving is going to be considered ‘severe.’ However, there are easy steps you can take to limit the amount of wear and tear on your vehicle and improve fuel economy,” proper maintenance and timely repair , will ensure your vehicle performs safely, dependably and efficiently for years to come, no matter the driving conditions.”

It is recommended that motorists be Car Care Aware and take actions to reduce the effects of severe driving, such as:

- Follow the “severe” service schedule in your owner’s manual.
- Check fluids, including oil, and filters more frequently.
- Have certain components such as brakes and shocks inspected more regularly.
- Observe the speed limit. Gas mileage decreases rapidly above 60 mph.
- Avoid quick starts and stops. Aggressive driving can lower gas mileage.
- Don’t haul unneeded items in the trunk as extra weight will reduce fuel economy.
- Keep your car properly tuned to improve gas mileage.


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Remember Always be Car Care Aware and your vehicle will Last for Years no matter the situations.....

hello sir, if your technician has inspected the nozzles and the fuel pump, have them scan the vehicle and /test the car with another brain box (Ecu) before any other parts are loosened...

[quote author=Chynx post=53667468][/quote]

Auto technicians say the key to keeping vehicles running well-today and down the road-is routine maintenance. Yet many drivers tend to stall when it comes to keeping up with some everyday auto-basics. A recent survey found:

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25%of cars had low or dirty engine oil.

13%had low or contaminated brake fluid.

18%had dirty air filters.

17%had inadequate cooling protection or low coolant levels.

16% needed new windshield wiper and 27%had low or contaminated washer fluid.

18%needed new belts

Overall, 89% of vehicles are in need of at least one service or repair.




A regular service schedule can help keep your car running it’s best. For your convenience, a Service Interval Schedule has been developed to help you keep track of regular maintenance. Most of the checks and services described here can be done at little or no cost. Best of all, they are quick and easy to do.



Make a personal calendar so all these can/are always addressed as at when due....



Check Frequently

- Dashboard Indicator Lights On
- Lights
- Tire Inflation and Condition
- Windshield Washer Fluid
- Engine Oil Level


Check Every 3 Months/ 3,000 Miles

- Automatic Transmission Fluid
- Battery and Cables
- Belts
- Dashboard Indicator Light On
- Engine Air Filter
- Engine Oil
- Exhaust
- Hoses
- Lights
- Power Steering Fluid
- Tire Inflation and Condition
- Windshield Washer Fluid


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Check Every 6 Months/6,000 Miles

- Automatic Transmission Fluid
- Battery and Cables
- Belts
- Chassis Lubrication
- Dashboard Indicator Light On
- Engine Air Filter
- Engine Oil
- Exhaust
- Hoses
- Lights
- Power Steering Fluid
- Tire Inflation and Condition
- Windshield Washer Fluid
- Wiper Blades


Check Every 9 Months/ 9,000 Miles

- Automatic Transmission Fluid
- Battery and Cables
- Belts
- Dashboard Indicator Light On
- Engine Air Filter
- Engine Oil
- Exhaust
- Hoses
- Lights
- Power Steering Fluid
- Tire Inflation and Condition
- Windshield Washer Fluid


Check every 12 Months/ 12,000 miles

- Automatic Transmission Fluid
- Battery and Cables
- Belts
- Brake system
- Cabin Air Filter
- Chassis Lubrication
- Dashboard Indicator Light On
- Coolant (Antifreeze)
- Engine Air Filter
- Engine Oil
- Exhaust
- Hoses
- Lights
- Power Steering Fluid
- Steering and Suspension
- Tire Inflation and Condition
- Wheel Alignment
- Windshield Washer Fluid
- Wiper Blades





Make a personal calendar so all these can/are always addressed as at when due....

Keeping your car looking good isn”t just a matter of enhancing its resale value, although that”s important too, it”s also your car”s only line of defense between the sheet metal and the elements. You already know parking lot dings, gravel roads or an angry ex can ruin your car”s paint in the blink of an eye, but a lot of things out there can do just as much, if not more, harm to the exterior of your car.

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We contacted experts for advice on how to deal with common paint-damaging situations. While their specific advice is below, time and time again, they recommended keeping a good coat of wax on your car. Not only does it keep it looking pretty, it helps prevent most paint damage, or at the very least, buys you some time to get your car professionally washed. it is also recommended that you keep a bottle of quick-detail spray and a microfiber cloth in your trunk. As you”ll see, a lot of these common problems can be prevented with a quick wipe of this solution.



1. The Source: Wildfires

The Problem: When wet, ash forms an alkali that can ruin your car”s finish.
The Solution: Keep your car covered, use a car duster for white ash, wash thoroughly if it”s soot.

These days it seems like every state is burdened with wildfires. The ash gets everywhere, and your car”s finish is no exception. While your instinct may be to hit the windshield washers, or just hose down the whole car, water mixed with ash can create powerful alkalis, which will ruin your paint. White ash can be removed with a car duster, or just by driving away and letting it blow off. Black ash can scratch your paint, even when you use a duster, so you”ll need to wash it off using a car wash solution, and dry thoroughly. Once the fires are out, get your car professionally washed, and put on a new coat of wax.





2. The Source: Tree sap

The Problem: Ancient peoples used tree sap as glue for a good reason.
The Solution: Bug and tar remover, mineral spirits, clay bar treatment

Just wiping sap off when it”s still gooey only smears it around a larger area. Instead, get a bottle of bug and tar remover from your local car parts store, and use it as directed. If the sap dries, mineral spirits can dissolve it, and remaining residue will come off with a clay bar treatment. Just be sure to wax the car after you”re done.





3. The Source: The gas pump


The Problem: Spilled gasoline
The Solution: Don”t top off, and clean up accidental drips

Times are tough, but “topping off” your gas tank and accidentally letting it overflow is a surefire way to damage your car”s paint. If left alone, gasoline will leave a stain on your car”s finish that”s nearly impossible to get off. If you do happen to spill gas by accident, the best solution is to grab a bottle of instant detailer and a good, clean microfiber cloth and clean up the gasoline before it does any harm.





4. The Source: Fingertips and mischief


The Problem: Writing or rubbing on dirty paint causes permanent marks.
The Solution: Keep your car clean.

We”ve all seen “wash me” written on a car”s finish, but the well-intentioned tagger actually just made things worse. Dirt acts like sandpaper when it”s dragged across paint, and it can make the marks last long after the dirt is gone.

Get yourself a long-handled duster and wipe down your car every day to prevent accidental sanding. If it”s too late, most small scratches come out with a polish or scratch remover. Just always be sure to clean the car well before waxing or polishing.



5. The Source: Your morning coffee


The Problem: Coffee and sodas contain acids that can etch your clearcoat.
The Solution: Wash it off immediately

Driving off with your coffee cup or soda bottle on your roof isn”t just a day-ruiner, it can ruin your paint. Many beverages are acidic, and since any acid can hurt your car”s finish, you”ll want to get it washed off as soon as you can. Letting it sit will only give it more time to do damage, and letting it dry will only make it harder to get off later. If it”s a soda, or if you take a lot of sugar in your coffee, then you”re going to be dealing with a sticky residue in addition to corrosive chemicals. If you can”t hit a car wash, then break out your bottle of quick detailer and your microfiber cloth and wipe it up.



6. The Source: Dirt on your car-wash tools


The Problem: Unseen dirt can scratch
The Solution: Keep an extra mitt handy.

Washing your own car can be fun, but a common mistake can cause more damage than you think: dropping your sponge. Even the finest, most expensive microfiber wash mitt on the market can be ruined if it touches the ground. The bits of grit and sand it inevitably picks up can”t be entirely washed off, and you”ll have swirl marks and other scratches before you know it. The solution is to never drop anything. But if you’re like us, it’d be best to keep a spare washing mitt or two on hand to avoid the resulting expenses from car detailing or repainting.




7. The Source: Automatic sprinklers

The Problem: Water leaves hard-to-remove spots on your paint.
The Solution: Stay away from sprinklers whenever possible

That primo parking spot right next to the planter may look good, but if it has automatic sprinklers, you could be in for trouble. You wouldn”t think that plain water would be such a problem, but the minerals left behind bond to your car”s paint, making them very difficult to remove. Your best bet is to avoid parking where sprinklers can do their damage, but that”s not always possible. If you do get water spots, it”s best to take it to a professional detailer.


8. The Source: Avian digestion

The Problem: Bird poop is acidic
The Solution: Wash it off immediately

Bird poop isn”t just unsightly. It”s also acidic. Just look at the number of ruined marble statues in pigeon-infested cities and you”ll see what we mean. Not only that, but birds eat seeds and bits of gravel that can scratch your paint.

The solution is to wash bird droppings off as soon as you see them. Use a bottle of quick detail and a soft microfiber cloth to wipe it up. Be sure to use a lifting action, since you don”t want to grind any grit onto your paint.





9. The Source: Bugs

The Problem: Bug guts are acidic.
The Solution: Get to the car wash

You”re heading home from a road trip when suddenly the eighth plague of Egypt strikes, with thousands of bugs splattering your windshield. But just cleaning the windshield isn”t enough. Bugs are surprisingly acidic, and if you do hit a swarm, don”t let the bugs get the last laugh as their remains slowly etch your paint. Wash your car as soon as you can with a good car wash solution, and for the more stubborn guts, use a bug and tar remover.



10. Prolonged Exposure to Sunshine

The Problem: Sun exposure fades paint
The Solution: park in a garage or shaded area as often as possible

We live in a very hot country sun exposure can cause your vehicle’s paintwork to fade — damage that can be difficult to reverse.

The best way to avoid prolonged sun exposure is to park in a garage or cover the car with a specially made car cover. Failing that, try to park in a shady spot wherever possible.

you should always service your car every 3000km or every 3 months depending on driving condition...

jesse8048:


Bros, I replaced the half and top of my 2000 Nissan primera engine in August 2016. I used mobile engine oil. Since that August till now, d color is nt yet black, it's slightly dark(brownish). Shud I change d oil and filter since it's getting to 6months.

hello, if the check Engine light is on and a scan was carried out but no fault code was seen, the technician that scanned it needs to have the scanner software updated, and the vehicle scanned again.

ColeworldMD:
2005, honda accord EOD

Good Day , please what is the year, make and model of your car?

ColeworldMD:
Autofreeman please my CEL is on but after scanning there was no code. Please any suggestions will be welcomed.

If your check engine light is on, there’s a good chance it’s for one of these 10 reasons.

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9. Faulty Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Purge Solenoid
The purge solenoid is part of the car’s EVAP system and helps control how much fuel vapor escapes into the atmosphere from the car. The purge solenoid is controlled by the engine control module or powertrain control module and operates on a duty cycle and could be partially left open.


8. Faulty Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Purge Control Valve
The purge control valve is part of the car’s EVAP system, and when the engine is running and fully warmed up, the engine computer gradually opens the purge valve to allow some of the fuel vapor to be moved from the charcoal canister to be burned in the engine. If the purge flow is monitored as more or less than expected by the engine’s computer, the check engine light will come on. The purge valves can also get stuck, causing a need to be replaced.


7. Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s) and Spark Plug(s)
Responsible for igniting a car’s air/fuel charge or mixture, faulty spark plug wires and/or spark plugs can cause a “misfire,” reducing gas mileage and potentially damaging the car’s catalytic converter. In areas with cold weather, fuel doesn’t vaporize as easily, so droplets can form and foul a spark plug. Spark plugs are relatively cheap to replace yourself, costing around N3000-N5000 per plug.


6. Faulty Mass Air Flow Sensor
The mass air flow sensor is in charge of metering the air coming into your car’s engine, helping determine how much fuel to inject into the engine. When the mass air flow sensor is malfunctioning, fuel economy can drop anywhere from 10 percent to 25 percent.


5. Faulty Ignition Coil(s)
Ignition coils are used to provide an ignition source for the fuel to combust in an engine. By taking the battery’s 12-volt current, ignition coils step it up to ignite the spark plugs. Like spark plug wires, several conditions can result in the failure of ignition coils, including faulty spark plugs, high engine bay temperatures and age. Vehicle owners should pay special attention since ignition coil failure could result in more issues such as damaging the car’s catalytic converter.


4. Faulty Thermostat
The thermostat is responsible for regulating the engine coolant temperature to warm and cool to ideal “operating temperature.” It essentially opens and closes as needed to regulate temperature and when a thermostat fails, if often gets stuck open. If the vehicle’s computer doesn’t see the engine coolant temperature rise to operating temperature within a certain period of time, it will illuminate the check engine light. A car’s thermostat can rust and fail if the coolant isn’t changed at recommended mileage intervals or if the vehicle is subjected to extreme temperatures.


3. faulty or loose Fuel Cap
Fuel caps proved troublesome in 2014, accounting for 7.10 percent of all repairs. Last year, it dropped to fourth place, accounting for only 3.84 percent of repairs. Missing or damaged fuel caps can cost time and money, causing the check engine light to illuminate. If left unchecked, a gas cap issue can cause reduced fuel economy and harm the environment. Luckily it’s a cheap fix.


2. Faulty Catalytic Converter
Replacing a vehicle’s catalytic converter is rather costly with an average repair cost of N40000 for the part alone. In most cases, a catalytic converter won’t fail unless a misfire occurs, which can be caused by ignoring a faulty spark plug, ignition coil or engine mechanical problem.


1. Faulty Oxygen Sensor
The most common car repair in 2015 was replacing the oxygen sensor, making up 7.01 percent of all repairs last year. The O2 sensor is extremely important to a car’s engine performance as well as to the environment, measuring the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust to tell a car’s computer when there is either too much, or not enough fuel as compared with oxygen for ideal operation. O2 sensors can fail prematurely for a variety of reasons, including lack of maintenance such as ignoring oil changes or engine contamination from internal coolant leaks. If ignored, a faulty O2 sensor could result in as much as a 40-percent reduction in gas mileage.


Always have your vehicle scanned so it will eliminate a lot of these reasons and point you towards the right one...

In today’s post we’ll cover typical maintenance and repair. You can think of these items as some of the most common maintenance procedures and repairs necessary to keep your car operating safely and optimally.

Oil Filters and Fluids

Periodic oil and filter changes keep your engine clean on the inside. Additives, which break down over time, are also subject to contamination. Other car fluids may require periodic replacement. For example, the majority of automatic transmission failures are heat-related, and automatic transmission fluid breaks down rapidly when subjected to high temperatures. Your car owner’s manual may specify periodic flushing and filling of the brake hydraulic system because contaminated brake fluid may lead to corrosion and other problems in the hydraulic system, especially on cars with anti-lock brakes (ABS).

Belts and Hoses
It is urged to replace belts, radiator and heater hoses at specific recommended intervals to prevent your car from breaking down. Losing a belt today means big trouble for the engine because serpentine belts are used on most engines to turn the water pump, alternator, power steering and air conditioning compressor. Older cars use individual V-belts for these various accessories. A blown hose results in an overheated engine and can lead cause additional damage. It’s not easy to know the true condition of a belt or hose by outward appearance because most fail from the inside out. Rubber hoses can become hard and brittle, deteriorating with age and heat exposure causing them to split, blister or leak while belts can also break down with heat, mileage and age.


Brake Service
The brake system is your car ‘s most important safety system, so make sure you never put off routine brake inspections!

Brakes are a normal wear item for any car. Eventually they will need to be replaced for both performance and safety reasons. Planning for this can help save you money as you can prevent your brakes from reaching the “metal-to-metal” point, which typically means accelerating the need for rotor or drum replacement.

Have your brake linings, drums and rotors and brake fluid inspected at each tune up or oil change. Your car owner’s manual may also specify periodic flushing and filling or the brake hydraulic system.



Wheel Alignment
Do I Need a Wheel Alignment?, it’s important to remember that maintaining your car’s wheel alignment reduces tire wear, improves fuel economy and handling and increases drive safety. Normal wear and road conditions take their toll on your car’s steering and suspension system and throwing the alignment settings out of specifications can damage steering and suspension parts long term.



@autofreemanLTD #carcarefriday #safetyfirst

hello, the first thing is to have the vehicle scanned , so one can have an idea where to start in the process of diagnosis/ repair

aristosoft:

Honda Accord 2006 ( Discussion Continue)

first off, what is the make, model , and year of your vehicle..?

aristosoft:
My gear got stucked. After fixing it, my car doesn't respond fast whenever I press the pedal. It's not raising. It never goes beyond 3. What are the possibilities?

it can be an array of things, we cannot be sure unless you have your technician look at it, however quality of brake pad, Quantity of pad/ lining left and a bad brake disc/drum are top on the list.

talk2cj08:
My brake makes lots if noise when i pedal it, what could be the cause

We’ve all been in the situation where you’re driving along, when suddenly *DING* a low fuel warning light pops up and ruins all your fun because you have to take a pit stop or detour and get gas. You’re either the type of driver that gets really nervous or you’re the complete opposite, relaxed because “empty” is just a guideline or friendly suggestion.

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Here’s what you should know, regardless of which type of driver you are. The warning light indicates that the fuel has reached the reserve level, which is about 10 to 15 percent of your tank’s total capacity. You can use that reference along with your car’s average fuel economy to calculate your remaining range, but it’s a good idea to not risk running the car until it’s dry.

While standing on the side of the road with your empty car waiting for a tow truck or walking to the nearest gas station and returning with a jerry can is embarrassing enough, there’s another serious concern that could impact your wallet. And it will be way more expensive than a tank of gas.

In your fuel tank, there is a contraption called a fuel pump, which sends the fuel from the tank to the engine.

The fuel pump relies on the gasoline in the tank to keep it cool and lubricated. Running the car with a low tank means that the pump isn’t staying as lubricated as it should and is at risk of overheating. The obvious downside to this is premature failure of the pump.

That’s a pretty expensive repair. Failing fuel pumps will lead to poor performance, particularly with a car not accelerating smoothly or starting at all.

Your fuel pump also has a fuel filter, which can quickly get dirty if you drive with a low tank. Since any sediment or dirt sinks to the bottom of the tank, the fuel filter could end up getting blocked or could take in dirty fuel, which also has costly consequences.

Ignoring your car’s low fuel warning is generally a bad idea, and running your car on empty can cause serious and costly problems to your car’s fuel system. Keep that in mind the next time your car nags you to visit the gas station.

There are two types of people....

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Fuel economy is defined as drivers getting the most amount of distance per litre of fuel. Here are some useful tips on how to improve fuel economy and save money on fuel.

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1. Drive within the Speed Limit
Different car makes have their optimum speed set at unique levels. This means that going above this limit would lead to higher petrol consumption. To be on the safe side, observe the speed limit. This will save straining your car’s performance levels, save your money and save lives. An all round positive.

2. Prudent Driving
Divers in Nigeria are generally offensive and defensive. Offensive driving includes a lot of aggression such as rapid acceleration and braking which wastes petrol. Sensible driving is also safer for the driver and others, so you may save more than petrol money.


3. Remove Excess Weight
Avoid keeping unnecessary items in your vehicle, especially heavy ones. An extra 45 kg in your vehicle could reduce your fuel economy by as much as 2%. The reduction is based on the percentage of extra weight and affects smaller vehicles more than larger ones.


4. Avoid Excessive Idling
Idling can use 1-2 litres of fuel per hour, depending on engine size and air conditioner (AC) use. Turn off the engine when the vehicle is parked. It only takes a few seconds worth of fuel to restart the vehicle. Turning your engine on and off excessively, however, may increase starter wear.



5. Travel smart
Consider using public transport if it is more convenient for you. Combining errands into one trip saves you time and money. Planning ensures that travelling is done when the engine is warmed-up and efficient, and it can reduce the distance you travel. Take advantage of carpooling and ride-share programs. You can cut your weekly petrol costs in half and save wear on your car if you take turns driving with other people. This is also a way to contribute to reducing pollution as there will be fewer cars on the road.

And because we love our readers so much here are two more tips...

6. Tip Top vehicle condition
It goes without saying, if your vehicle is well maintained, tire pressure checked and are at optimum pressures and conditions, your car will run more efficiently and use less fuel.


7. The right vehicle

This tip is worth mentioning but if you already have the wrong car, there isn’t much you can do about it. So, if you have a large SUV and 90% of the time you are driving through Alimosho local government, you are in the wrong car, you are going to use more petrol than you would if you have a small Vitz for example for the same task. So hopefully you purchased the right vehicle for your needs and pockets.

What is It?

Your car’s brake system is one of its most critical safety systems and as such, it is imperative to keep it maintained and functioning properly. Doing so helps ensure safe vehicle control and operation under a wide variety of conditions. If you suspect any problems or have any concerns, you should have it inspected as soon as possible.

Autofreeman.com.ng


What Does it Do?

As the brakes are a very complicated system, the average car owner may not be familiar with how they work. You may have heard terms thrown around, “caliper”, “drum brakes”, “hydraulic system”, but not understood how they work together from pushing the brake pedal to stopping the car. A very basic explanation is as follows to help you gain a little insight about the brakes in your vehicle:

It all starts when you push the brake pedal. That force generates hydraulic pressure in the master cylinder. The master cylinder uses brake fluid to transfer pressure through the hydraulic lines and hoses to the calipers and/or wheel cylinders (one at each wheel).

The calipers and wheel cylinders use that pressure to squeeze the brake pads and/or shoes against rotors and/or drums to stop your car.



Disc Brakes or Drum Brakes?
Now, there are different types of brakes: drum and disc. Disc brakes are made up of rotors, pads and calipers, among other, smaller parts. The rotor is a metal disc that rotates with the wheels. The stationary mounted caliper holds a pad on each side of the rotor and slides to force the pads against the rotor when pressure is applied.

Drum brakes are made up of shoes (which function as the pads in a disc brake system) and are enclosed in a drum (which functions as the rotor in a disc brake system). The shoes push against the drum when pressure is applied. The resulting friction, from the pads against the rotor or the shoes against the drum, slows the vehicle and is relative to the amount of force applied to the brake pedal.

Typical Wear and Tear

Brakes are a normal wear item for any car and are eventually going to need replacement. Some vehicles have indicators to help alert you when new pads are needed; however, it is recommended that as a car owner you are proactive about knowing the condition of your brakes. check the brake pad wear each time you take the wheels off your car (most commonly, during the tire rotation). also perform a “basic brake inspection” if you have particular concerns or want to know the life remaining on your brakes. Avoid letting your brakes get too worn (i.e. metal to metal), as that can mean a more expensive rotor or drum replacement and a potential safety issue.

Several factors that affect brake wear include:

-Driving Habits
-Operating conditions (such as towing often, living by the coast for example our friends on the island which has the potential for a lot of rust, -mostly in-town driving, etc.)
-Vehicle type
-The quality of brake lining/ pad material.

Symptoms
If you are experiencing one or more of the following symptoms or have any other particular concerns in regards to your brakes, contact a technician for help:

- Car pulls to one side during braking
- Brake pedal pulsates when you apply the brakes
- Brake pedal feels “mushy”
- Noise when you step on the brake pedal
- Repeatedly need to add brake fluid to the master cylinder
- Brake and/or ABS warning light

benjamin007:
I need the alternator for my car,any dealer in the house

07060851026, call this number

Overheating engines can be hazardous. The car overheats when there’s a disruption in the cooling system. This issue can occur at anytime, whether you’re driving along the highway, speeding up or stuck in traffic.

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You’ll know your car is overheating when you look at the temperature gauge is in the red zone, or when the check engine indicator pops up. A more obvious indication is when you see smoke coming out from under the car’s hood.

To avoid further damage, it’s important for you to specify the problem immediately. Below are some of the most common causes:

1. A Faulty Thermostat
The thermostat is a heat-sensitive part of the car that controls the engine temperature. It is basically the cooling system of your car. If the thermostat gets stuck, it will then cause the engine to overheat.

2. A Faulty or Plugged Radiator
Due to the fins and tubes of the radiator, the coolant’s temperature is reduced — therefore preventing engine heat elevation. So, if there are any interruptions or blockages, the radiator will malfunction and lead to overheating. A plugged radiator can’t cool properly because the system’s liquid circulation is not flowing well. Also, if the radiator’s fan clutch and fan blade are broken, the engine temperature won’t regulate properly.

3. A Defective or Broken Water Pump

The water pump is the core of the cooling system. Its main function is to propel the pressurized coolant through the engine’s cooling system. Any water pump malfunctions caused by eroded impeller vanes, a leak, or a shake in the pump shaft, can disrupt the coolant flow and result to the engine overheating.

4. A Broken or Loose Belt
Belts are linked to the water pump rotation to obtain the right speed for proper coolant flow. If a belt is broken or loose, it can cause the engine to overheat.

5. An Incorrect Coolant Concentration and Low Coolant Level
Using the wrong kind of coolant or mixing an incorrect concentration ratio of coolant and water can cause your engine to overheat. Always make sure that your coolant is at the right level because vehicles tend to overheat when there’s a leak in the coolant system. When it comes to getting the right coolant, it is essential to get advice from your vehicle’s manufacturer or from Meyers Auto Parts’ knowledgeable team.


Overheating can also be prevented by securing the pressure cap and making sure that the liquid in the system is at the right level and is working properly. Lastly, when the car is overheating, never touch or try to open the pressure cap with your bare hands!

That is a beautiful car...

nurey:
This your story is better than a lullaby

Give me an AUDI Q7 6.0L V12 QUATTRO TDI any day and I will make any turbo charged petrol engine look extremely stupid

A story on the Internet goes on about how a man had to spend 14,000 USD fixing his Porsche Cayenne after his wife accidentally filled it up with diesel at the fuel dispenser instead of petrol. He thought bleeding the tank, pump and fuel lines and replacing the plugs would solve his problem, but no, apparently Porsche AG do not like their stuff being repaired like that; he had to give the car back to them for repairs and then…well, he also had to part with slightly more than $10,000. Apparently Porsche warranties do not cover stupidity. This got me thinking: what is the big deal about whether a car runs on petrol or diesel? Does the car still not require periodic filling up? Aren’t they all started with a key (at least for motor vehicles)? Don’t the controls work the same for both types of cars? What is the difference anyway?

autofreeman.com.ng

These are the differences:

Injection:

In the days of old, petrol was mixed with air, roughly in the ratio 1:15 respectively, by a device called a carburetor. Subsequent technology introduced fuel injection, but the main basis of fuel delivery for a petrol engine was that it was mixed with air outside the cylinders before the mixture was set on fire within the cylinder by means of a spark plug. Diesel engines had the fuel injected into a mass of hot compressed air for them to run efficiently, and this difference brings us to the next difference, ignition.



Ignition:

The physical qualities of petrol and diesel are vastly different. Petrol is a lighter, more volatile liquid (and thus more flammable) than diesel, which is heavier, oily and stinks to high heaven. As such, their combustion properties are different. Petrol requires a naked flame, and not necessarily a very hot one, before going boom. But liquid petrol does not burn. Yes you read correctly, liquid petrol does not burn; petrol vapor does. The volatility of petrol means it is very easily vaporized, which explains how early examples of petrol engine used simple carburetors. Later (fuel-injected) models use low pressure injectors to vaporize the fuel before it is burnt in the engine.

Diesel, being heavier and more viscous, is even more reluctant to combust in liquid form. To compound matters, it does not vaporize easily, nor will it catch fire no matter how naked the flame introduced is. When injected into the engine, it has to go through extremely high pressure injectors which then feed a very tiny nozzle to completely atomize the diesel oil. If it won’t burn when in liquid form, and it won’t catch fire when sprayed out of a nozzle, how then does it work? Pure air is sucked into the diesel engine, which air is then compressed to a very small volume. Remember Charles and Boyle from First Form Chemistry? The compressed air, now at high pressure, becomes extremely hot (roughly 550° C), and it is to this hot, squashed gas that the diesel oil is injected. It then has little choice but to burn, releasing large amounts of energy in the process.

Just to add a point on injection: engineers of petrol engines have tried diesel-like direct injection of petrol instead of the typical external mixing of air and fuel. Petrol’s physical characteristics make introduction of fuel after the induction valves have closed a tricky affair, and different manufacturers have achieved this with varying levels of success. Mitsubishi call their work GDI (Gasoline Direct Injection), and it almost works. Toyota calls theirs D4 (Direct injection, 4-stroke cycle), and it almost doesn’t work. Diesel engineers, on the other hand, have only had to choose between direct injection, where the injectors feed the cylinders directly from the pump, or common-rail, a fuel delivery system that works in a manner suspiciously similar to that of an irrigation scheme.



Compression Ratio:

Sounds fancy and complicated, but compression ratio is the relationship between the air coming into the engine before it is compressed and after it is compressed. A higher compression ratio means a higher degree of squeezing; therefore a low compression ratio means little squeezing. Diesel engines typically have higher compression ratios than petrol engines so that the compressed air can reach a temperature high enough to ignite the diesel: remember Charles and Boyle? Petrol engines have lower compression ratios to prevent pre-ignition, a case where the air-fuel mixture catches fire in the cylinder before it is supposed to. The difference in compression ratios also explains why drivers talk of “heavy” gears in a diesel: it is difficult to get a smooth downshift in a diesel without double declutching or waiting for the engine revs to decay completely before shifting because of the closed-throttle compression resistance offered by the engine.



Power and Torque:

It is difficult to explain the difference between power and torque without revisiting high school physics, but it can be put down to this: torque is the amount of “twist” in the driveshaft provided by the engine, while power is the rate of that twist. Does that make sense? Another way of looking at it is this way: torque is what gets you going, while power is what keeps you going. Torque determines acceleration or load-pulling ability (depending on the gearbox), while power determines absolute speed. Better now?

Petrol engines tend to have a lot of power, but little torque, mostly depending on engine capacity and design. That explains why smaller versatile vehicles tend towards petrol power. Diesels have it the other way round: they usually have excellent torque characteristics, but low power, especially in the upper reaches of the rev range where maximum power is reached. This is why heavy commercial vehicles and tractors come fitted with oil-burning mills.

So, if you want to set a land speed record, concentrate your efforts around a petrol engine; if you want to move a chunk of that land, slowly, think diesel.



NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harshness)

Show me a man who has driven a (production) diesel powered Rolls-Royce/Bentley limousine, and I will show you a liar. The smoothest internal combustion engines are almost always petrol powered. Old car magazines that I go through describe diesel engine smoothness (or lack thereof) in amusing ways, using analogies like “…kicking a rusty can down a cobbled street”, “…an old oil drum rolling down the face of a quarry” and “…loose gravel inside a food blender”. All these describe the aural signatures from diesel engines of eras past, though advancement in noise suppression has made life bearable for owners of newer diesel engines.

The ruggedness of these diesel engines comes from the fact that they operate at much lower engine rpm (making frequency lower and harder to damp or “rectify”, to use an electrical term), and that they are made from much heavier components than their petrol counterparts, giving them high moments of inertia. On a bad day, the simple idling from a diesel engine is enough to shake and rattle an entire vehicle. The low idling speed of the engine also give the engine a characteristic “knock”, not the mechanical defect, but the noise, unlike the smooth thrum of a high-speed-idle petrol.

Day to Day Commute

From the above chatter, it might seem that a diesel engine might not be appropriate for most drivers, and typically it shouldn’t. It is rattly, sluggish, and heavy and spews an embarrassingly dark fog from the tail pipe if not well maintained. Never mind the inherent reluctance of the driver of a small car to be seen filling up at the black pump, not so much locally but in Europe and the States.

But despites the cons, there are a few pros to support driving a diesel powered vehicle. They use a lot less fuel, giving almost twice the fuel economy of equivalent petrol engines; and diesel is dirt cheap, simply because diesel is material as close to dirt as you will ever feed your car. The torque characteristics also mean there will be less shifting, making them a bit more relaxing to drive, since the engine is able to pull higher gears at lower speeds compared to petrol units. The massive torque also enables one to lug heavier loads without straining the engine and drive-train excessively.

There is also a lack of high-tension electrical systems to attend to (coils and spark plugs), making them more reliable. The heavier parts also make them last longer. These heavier parts also absorb a lot of heat, so in cold weather, there is need for a glowplug, a small electric heater in the cylinder’s pre-chamber to warm the engine for a proper start. The warming act is sometimes referred to as kuchoma (Swahili for “burning”) by many drivers.

Think of this: the gun has been called The Great Equalizer. A thin child could face a full-scale Sumo wrestler with less knocking of the knees if he had a rifle, or at least a pistol, in his hands. In the same vein, a diesel engine could face off a petrol engine with less red-faced bashfulness if equipped with the automotive equivalent of the Great Equalizer: a turbocharger.


Turbocharger Technology

Boost technology (turbocharging and supercharging) will be explained elsewhere in detail, but here I want to talk about its effect on a diesel engine.

As with any other engine, a turbocharger fitted to a diesel powerplant raises the specific power output (horsepower rating), lowers emissions, improves efficiency and offers higher levels of refinement, the exact same weaknesses of a diesel as highlighted in a comparison against a petrol engine. These improvements have so popularized turbocharged diesel power that it is the norm nowadays rather than the exception. Just how popular are these turbodiesels? As of 2006, 50% of new vehicle registrations in Europe were turbocharged diesel models.

When turbocharged, diesel engines do not need adjustment of their compression ratios, since there is no risk of pre-ignition (fuel is injected at the point of ignition), making them ideal candidates for this technology. Since the turbocharger boosts power output, a turbodiesel now has the triple benefit of having the massive torque of a typical diesel and top end power of a petrol engine, while still offering outstanding fuel economy.

To add a little perspective to this whole equalizer business, chew on this: A Skoda Octavia diesel sedan (powered by Volkswagen and turbocharged), is faster over the quarter mile than a Mark IV Volkswagen Golf GTI (petrol power, manual gearbox) and a Rover 200 (another petrol powered hatchback, automatic gearbox), though this test was done mainly to demonstrate how low the VW GTI had sunk rather than to highlight the prowess of the Skoda. But the result still applies.


Summary up: petrol is what to go for if you are in a real hurry and you want smoothness to supplement your haste, while diesel is the choice for penny-pinching, load-lugging environmentalists with nothing urgent on their schedules. Turbodiesels offer a compromise between the two, while turbocharged petrol cars are another league up. Just remember, whatever you choose, try not to end up spending 14,000 dollars fixing the miscalculations of an absent-minded spouse like our friend on the web did.

If you experience flickering headlights, stalling or strange noises when driving, your car isn't haunted; chances are it's just a failing alternator. The alternator is a key component in your car's electrical system, turning the energy from the crankshaft into useful electricity to power your vehicle's electrical systems and to help the battery recharge. When it starts to fail, it can create a domino effect of electrical problems that can ultimately cause a breakdown.

Autofreeman.com.ng

How do you know when you have a failing alternator? Here are six symptoms to watch for.

The indicator light
It's quite likely that your vehicle is equipped with a warning indicator light in the dashboard titled "ALT" or "GEN." This is often the first indicator that the alternator is going bad. Don't ignore this indicator, even if you are experiencing no other symptoms. Take the vehicle to a reliable automotive specialist for a diagnostic.



Headlights are dim or flickering
Flickering or dim headlights are a strong signal that your alternator may not be working correctly. The alternator provides power to the headlights, so the flickering usually means the alternator is struggling to perform.



Other electrical failures
When the alternator is going bad, other systems that are powered by the alternator may start to act up. These can include the power windows, power locks, dashboard lights, air conditioning, even your car radio. Other things might be causing these failures, but it's worth taking it to a trusted auto repair service to have it checked out.



Strange noises
This seems like a vague symptom--after all, lots of things can cause unusual noises in the car. However, sometimes alternator failure can cause some of the bearings to fail in the engine, creating unusual rattles. The alternator might be the culprit, especially if accompanied by some of the other symptoms we've mentioned.



Car stalls or has difficulty starting.
Your car isn't just running on gasoline; it also runs on electricity (even though it might not be one of those hybrid vehicles). The alternator provides power to the spark plugs that ignite the gasoline in your engine. When the alternator is failing, there might not be enough power in the spark plugs to keep the engine alive, which can cause it to stall for no reason while running, or to have trouble starting. Ignore this symptom, and your car eventually won't start at all.


Battery dies
Obviously, batteries sometimes fail on their own--but a bad alternator can actually cause the battery to drain because it's failing to recharge it. If your battery goes dead, have the alternator checked when replacing the battery so it doesn't happen again.

Source: automotiveolympia.com

In today’s post we’ll cover typical maintenance and repair. You can think of these items as some of the most common maintenance procedures and repairs necessary to keep your car operating safely and optimally.



Oil Filters and Fluids


Periodic oil and filter changes keep your engine clean on the inside. Additives, which break down over time, are also subject to contamination. Other car fluids may require periodic replacement. For example, the majority of automatic transmission failures are heat-related, and automatic transmission fluid breaks down rapidly when subjected to high temperatures. Your car owner’s manual may specify periodic flushing and filling of the brake hydraulic system because contaminated brake fluid may lead to corrosion and other problems in the hydraulic system, especially on cars with anti-lock brakes (ABS).



Belts and Hoses


It is urged to replace belts, radiator and heater hoses at specific recommended intervals to prevent your car from breaking down. Losing a belt today means big trouble for the engine because serpentine belts are used on most engines to turn the water pump, alternator, power steering and air conditioning compressor. Older cars use individual V-belts for these various accessories. A blown hose results in an overheated engine and can lead cause additional damage. It’s not easy to know the true condition of a belt or hose by outward appearance because most fail from the inside out. Rubber hoses can become hard and brittle, deteriorating with age and heat exposure causing them to split, blister or leak while belts can also break down with heat, mileage and age.



Brake Service


The brake system is your car ‘s most important safety system, so make sure you never put off routine brake inspections!

Brakes are a normal wear item for any car. Eventually they will need to be replaced for both performance and safety reasons. Planning for this can help save you money as you can prevent your brakes from reaching the “metal-to-metal” point, which typically means accelerating the need for rotor or drum replacement.

Have your brake linings, drums and rotors and brake fluid inspected at each tune up or oil change. Your car owner’s manual may also specify periodic flushing and filling or the brake hydraulic system


Wheel Alignment

Do I Need a Wheel Alignment?, it’s important to remember that maintaining your car’s wheel alignment reduces tire wear, improves fuel economy and handling and increases drive safety. Normal wear and road conditions take their toll on your car’s steering and suspension system and throwing the alignment settings out of specifications can damage steering and suspension parts long term.

The slippery liquid stuff that we pour expensively into our engines at every service serves very many purposes, some of them not so obvious. Lubrication is the obvious and most important purpose. That aside, engine oil also acts a cleaning agent, washing away the filings and worn metal particles that come with two surfaces rubbing against each other without lubrication. The oil film over the metal surface also inhibits rusting by preventing oxygen from getting at the metal, a property supported by anti-corrosion additives added to the oil. The same oil also acts as a heat sink by convection, dumping the friction-induced heat into the oil cooler or oil sump. The oil sump is the finned pan typically seen hanging on to the bottom of an engine, and acts as storage for the oil when it is not circulating. Heat is lost from the oil in another way through the PCV system (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) when oil gases built up in the crankcase are evacuated, carrying heat away with them. Simple.
Where and how is the oil is applied, however, complicates things slightly, and this is where we dive in head-first to demystify the technical stuff.

First off: how to get the oil:

Oil Manufacture
The oil used in the engine typically has its base extracted from crude oil through the refining process. Since this is the same crude from which we get everything from creosote (tar) to kerosene and jet fuel, extracting that oil base has to be done by fractional distillation. This is a process similar to simple distillation in that it involves boiling the living daylights out of the black gold, but there is a small addition, the addition of a veritable obstacle course that goes by the blood-curdling name of a fractionating column. That fractionating column provides a large surface area for cooling at minute temperature differentials, allowing the tapping of different materials with different boiling points. At the base of the column, the heavy oils and greases are extracted, somewhere just above that is where the oil base stops its journey. Higher up is the diesel tap, among others, while the light, volatile liquids make their way through the maze and are tapped closer to the very top.

To this extracted oil base are added a number of chemicals, what we call oil additives. They include corrosion inhibitors, anti-coagulants, dispersants, detergents and a lot of other stuff that give the oil its cleaning abilities, increase the operating temperature range (by lowering the freezing point and raising the boiling point), changes the viscosity index and prevents the oil from forming sludge in the sump. The resultant soup is what we call mineral-based or regular motor/ engine oil.
However, crude has been getting increasingly expensive; and its availability subject to either the whims of a clique of sheiks or the outcome of a needless war, so this prompted some pioneering geeks at Mobil to don their white coats and work extra hard in the lab finding an alternative base for the oil back in the ‘70s. The result? Synthetic oil, an alternative for the regular, fossil-based stuff. The synthetic oil is made either from select petroleum products (as opposed to whole crude) or other raw materials in a process called hydrocracking that I cannot even begin describing here. It is Organic Chemistry at its most difficult.

The appearance of synthetic motor oil not only provided a viable alternative to motorists, it also formed the base for one of the hottest arguments in the motoring world: which is better, natural or lab-born?

Natural (Mineral) vs. Synthetic
Let me kill the suspense: synthetic oils have the upper hand. They have better performance at extreme temperatures (high viscosity index), they provide longer engine life, their extended change intervals make them friendlier to the environment seeing as they are disposed of less frequently, they lubricate better on cold starts, their physical and chemical properties are superior: they are harder to break down or form sludge, there is less evaporative loss, resist oxidation and have better shear ability. Since synthetics are made in a lab, they have no naturally occurring contaminants, their molecules are smaller, thus making them ideal for today’s engines which have tighter clearances, and they are free of impurities. The thinner consistency of synthetics also provides less drag for the engine to overcome when running.
On the other hand, they are inapplicable to rotary engines. There has been a slow influx of Mazda RX-8 cars locally, which use a Wankel engine (rotary), so if you have bought one steer clear of synthetics. In older models of cars which had to be run in when new, synthetic was not ideal due to its superior lubrication: the desired initial wear on metal parts during bedding in could not occur. Their better chemical abilities also make them prone to decomposition in industrial applications where exposure to other chemicals is a daily occurrence. They also cannot hold lead particles in suspension form (as opposed to solution); meaning cars running on leaded fuel are not ideal candidates for their use. The lightness of the oil makes for lower oil pressure, an unnerving characteristic for petrolheads, but the low pressure has been proved not to have adverse effect on engine life or performance. Their worst trait is the cost: they sometimes cost up to three times as much as regular oil, but seeing that the oil is changed less often, you are the judge as to whether the extra cost is worth it. An example of synthetic oil is the high performance Mobil 1, or Shell Helix.

Apparently, high-mileage older car models are not suited for synthetic oil use as there is a fear that they will burn the oil too quickly. This is because of something called seal-swell property. This is the property of limp seals swelling and getting turgid when washed over with oil. Old cars had bigger tolerances, and running them on earlier synthetics which had lower seal-swell rates caused oil to leak from crankcase and rocker cover seals. At higher seal-swell rates, the seals swelled nicely and fit snugly in place. Running those cars on high-rate synthetic oil was not that bad, but the moment a little mineral oil was mixed in…disaster.

All in all, the difference is negligible as to which is actually better. To get the best of both worlds, there have been semi-synthetic blends, in which mineral oil is mixed with no more than 30% of synthetic oil.

Changing over from mineral to synthetic has caused many an uninformed motorist untold worry. Stop worrying: you can switch back and forth between the two as you please. No flushing is required, nor is it true that once you go artificial you cannot turn back. Some say it is undesirable to dilute the superior synthetic by adding simple regular oil, but at the end of the day, the call is yours.
Other Additives

The other additives have names that sound suspiciously like guesswork. The first is Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP), for protection during extremely stressful operations. It also prevents decomposition by oxidation sludge formation. Molybdenum disulphide reduces friction, yes, but it has the added advantage of bonding to metal. Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate reduces wear between touching metal surfaces by coating those surfaces with a touch of zinc.

Properties of Oil
The first is called the Viscosity Index. Viscosity, as I mentioned elsewhere, is the resistance to flow offered by a liquid, or the “solidity” of a fluid. From elementary chemistry, we know different fluids behave differently when subjected to varying heat levels. Some get less viscous with increase in heat and flow easier, like cooking oil, while others get thicker and more viscous at higher temperatures; like the silicon-based goo that is found in viscous coupling torque-split differentials. In that vein, the Viscosity Index of a fluid is a measure of how the viscosity of the fluid changes with temperature fluctuations: a low viscosity index fluid has its viscosity fluctuating wildly at different heat levels while high viscosity index fluids show little change in the viscosity no matter the ambient temperature.

Some of the other properties include the pour point, which is an index of the lowest temperature of the oil’s utility. The coldest expected operating temperature of the oil is what determines its pour point, since motor oil should still be able to flow adequately during cold starts.
Similar to the pour point is the flash point, the lowest temperature at which the oil gives off vapors which can ignite. The car engine is a bloody hot environment, so a high flash point is sought. This explains the oil extraction process described above, a process which gets rid of volatile flammable oil components and increasing the oil’s flash point.
Oil must also be able to neutralize acids, which sometimes form, and hence have something called the TBN: Total Base Number. The TBN is a measure of the reserve alkalinity of oil: in other words, the oil’s ability to neutralize acid. Similarly, the Total Acid Number (TAN) determines oil’s acidity.

Something called the NOACK Volatility Test determines the degree of physical evaporation loss of oil: after all, oil is a liquid, and it operates at high temperature environments, and we all know liquids evaporate when heated thoroughly. The highest allowable level is 15% evaporation loss, but some manufacturers go for a strict 10% for their cars.
It is these properties that give oil its various designations, like SAE J300, and to explain it away, allow me to introduce you to the Society of Automotive Engineers, or SAE in short.

SAE Jargon
The SAE came up with its own code for quickly determining any oil’s viscosity index. Their grading system starts from low viscosity all the way up to high, with these designations: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50, or 60. From 0 to 25, the rating is suffixed with the letter W, denoting Winter, or suitable for winter use. So an SAE 5 W means an oil with a viscosity index of 5 and ideal for winter. The 20 may or may not have a W, depending on hot or cold viscosity grade.

Multi-grade oils have denotations like SAE 10W-30, which means that it has the viscosity of one grade of oil when cold (10W) and the viscosity of an SAE 30 when hot. This multi-grade oil has the advantage of being useable all year round in extreme climates without having to change. Multi-grade oils can be made by adding VIIs (Viscosity Index Improvers) to regular oil.

While the SAE provides standards for a lubricant’s viscosity, other institutions further grade the oils according to their other properties. The American Petroleum Institute (API) uses the oil’s performance, physical and chemical properties as a yardstick. ILSAC (International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee) uses the SAE rating to create their own subsets of grades; grades which are determined by the operating temperature of a given engine. Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) grades the oils according to whether they are for dry clutch or wet clutch use. To cap it all off, most manufacturers came up with their own criteria to see which type of oil is most appropriate for their motors. They are too many to list here.

Of all these, the SAE rating is the most widely used, and the most relevant to our market.

The 5,000km myth

There has been a furor over whether it is really necessary to change the oil every 5,000km or three months. It has been a common practice for most auto shops to advise clients to do so, but the manufacturers beg to differ, and they are strongly supported by the EPA. The EPA claims that a better indicator of oil change intervals would be considering the following factors: the operating conditions of the engine in question, the type of oil used (mineral, synthetic or blended) and the hours of engine operation. Earlier I had said Daimler, who make the Mercedes C-Class, facelifted their first generation C-Class model with various additional features, one of which was an oil change indicator that rendered the 5,000km service redundant, since the engine oil could now be changed according to necessity and not a timetable. Mercedes claimed this could increase service intervals by up to 80%.

While this makes sense, not all cars have the oil change indicator; and it might be tiring to check your oil physically on a daily basis. A good trade-off would be to make an educated guess based on the three points the EPA raised. So, for short city runs, 5,000km is not bad. For extended light highway use, even 10,000km would be a penny-wise risk. For heavy applications or regular bursts of Rhino Charge-like driving (where water seeps in a lot), maybe sooner: 4000km or so. These figures are here for the purposes of comparison: I have not actually asked anyone to drive 10,000km without changing their engine oil.

source:autobazaar.co.uk