abunafiu,
truely, as the good book says: thou shalt know the truth and the truth shall set you free.

as more and more people come to know more about solar, all previous misconceptions will be thrown overboard and they'll better be able to appreciate the best gift to mankind - the power of the sun.

@olenyi,

Happy birthday to you from the house. In this short space of time, you have done so much to lift the standard of FTA through incisive research and well thought out responses to newbie enquiries. While the rest of the pack take a back seat, cluttered by ever present, less noble issues of everyday living, you still manage to eek out time to assuage the yearnings of many would-be FTA hobbysts.

Keep the fire burning, brother. Keep the flag flying. VIVA FTA!!!

gmc,

looks like tunnel guru no longer works with mtn bis. any way out on this?

fikfik:

i agree 100%.

uncle G et al, what are your thoughts on mixing different panel manufacturers? I'm trying to buy my panels but getting mixed prices and views about effectiveness. Joy Solar is cheapest; suntech is 10k more expensive and solarworld is almost 25k more expensive. I havent even mentioned the almighty SHARP panels. I like good deals as much as the next bloke, but is joy solar really that much inefficient as the more expensive panels?

Also, Uncle George mentioned that i can use 45A MPPT; but 250 x 12 = 3000 watts and 3000/48V = 62.5 amps. how is it possible I can still use 45A for this setup? (I prefer 45 amps anyways due to costs, if i need to expand i can get another one, but how is it mathematically possible)

fikfik,
the most important factors you should consider when mixing panels from different manufacturers is the panel open circuit voltage (voc) and voltage at peak power (vmax). ensure that these values are the same (or nearly the same) across all the modules you are planing to tie together and you'll be fine. however, if there is a significant difference in the voltages of modules you're mixing together, you'll discover a significant drop in power output from your system.

when buying panels don't always be influenced by pricing. also, avoid the trap of big names. joy solar seems to be just an upstart in the solar business and hence not well known but that is not to say that their panels are inferior. Also talking of suntech, not all their panels are up to snuff-including sharp. so, like abunafiu told you above, ultimately the choice is yours.

i said you could use 45a charge controller for your set up and i did this using real world solar throughput and not just name plate power ratings. on paper, your calculations may appear to be correct but its a different ball game altogether when collating real world panel production. all the same just like abunafiu said, it is best to go for the higher rating charge controller of 60a for future expansion.

kibukila,

i would rather advise you to go for zenith 200ah or 260ah if you can afford it.

kibukila,

earthrealm is very correct. your batteries are most probably dead.

for longer battery life, always take time to calculate your total house load and
size your battery bank in such a way that it doesn't drain beyond 50% at any point in time.

in voltage terms that means your batteries should never go below 49v (for 48v systems) or
24.5v (for 24v systems) or 12.25v (for 12v systems)
therefore, if you find yourself consistently draining your battery bank below 12v, 24v or 48v
depending on which system you have, then know that for sure your batteries will not last
very long.

SULIEMAN3: thank you bros.
you really got the actuall fact there. just like you were there with me.
hope i should now go for the changing of the burnt ic? though i'm still looking for the one that corresponds with the number of the burnt one to replace it.
thank you bros.

@SULIEMAN3,

The burnt IC is definitely the problem. Your decoder should come back to life as soon as you replace it.

Cheers!

SULIEMAN3: I was watching nilesat yesterday with 4663x, when i removed the rf cable and connected to a 4922A... On connecting it back to the 4663x, the reciever started displaying LNBF on the front pannel of the rx.
I hv checked the f-connector at the two ends of the rf cable but nothing seems to be wrong.
When i opened the box, i found an ic being burnt. This ic is withing AV cord and LNB input that stick out at the back of the box.
But my question goes like this: could the burnt ic be the culprit? I want to know b4 changing it.
Regards.

@SULIEMAN3,

That process of removing the RF connector from the decoder without first switching off power resulted
in the negative and positive ends of your RG6 cable being bridged together and hence your ic being burnt.
That was why your decoder was displaying 'LNBF' on the front panel. Most times a lot of us do this especially
when we are in a hurry. We get away with it without any consequence but on a few occasions like yours, disaster
happens. It is a very bad practice we must learn to avoid. Always take time to switch off your decoder from
the back on and off switch before changing cables. Often times, installers have been known to receive nasty
electric shock from poorly earthed decoders as a result of not switching off before removing f-connectors
from decoders.

Please lets be guided.

Just my 2 cents.

fikfik:

Ok, thanks boss. The Morning star MPPT someone offered me 105k for 45A this a good price? and 125k for 60Amp. (no display)

What size of DC circuit breakers should one get? 40A?

fikfik,

sorry i must have missed out your post earlier on.

the morningstar charge controller is a high end, top of the range product and hence quite expensive. i think
that price range you were given is around what you can get the original for. the display meter alone is about 20k.

but like totalgreen said, you can contact him for his own. i'm sure you'll get a better bargain from him.

for dc breakers, you can get 100a minimum.

well durable or not, i will like to try it out for myself.

neduzi,
please expect my order in the next few days.

odilibe: @Obnelly / kd10...thanks

@George..yeah, the eagle has landed!

@odilibe,

Welcome hoe, bro!

Looking forward to that beloved amiko!

bodejohn,

contrary to your assertion, you actually need more than the wattage and vmp of your solar panels.
when you are adding panels to your existing array, then a difference of voc of even 5v becomes very important.
also, not all panels stc values are the same. interestingly also, you could buy the same wattage panels from the
same manufacturer only to find out that these values vary greatly.

my supplier has known me for always been a stickler for name plate values when ordering for new panels. i always
take my time to scrutinize even the finest details.

in solar power, it pays to be detail-oriented!

abunafiu,

with the prag, you could go to sleep knowing fully well that your investment is in safe hands!

abunafiu,

i must say that your experience with the prag is rather strange. if anything, the usage of the stabiliser
should enhance your battery charging not slow it down. as long as you're getting the right amount of
input voltage into the inverter, there should be no increase in charging times for your battery bank.

try and check your connections and if possible remove the stabiliser from 'delay' mode when connecting to
phcn.

fikfik:

Uncle George, where do you get your suntech from or joy panel? can i use a 45amp MPPT for 12 250Watt panels?

i get my panels from vitus in lagos. he is at alaba international.

contact him on: 08039644115

tell him warriman referred you

yes, you can use a 45a mppt controller for 12pcs 250w panels, however, like abunafiu told you, your best bet is to use a
60a mppt controller for future expansion.

bodejohn:

Oops, I didn't know you require that much details. It is however not a new installtion, the panels are already on the roof and I am not sure of when I will have time to check those parameters you require.

@bodejohn,

its always beneficial to take a snapshot of module nameplates which you are installing. that way you have a
record of its specs for future reference. you could even write them down somewhere on your desktop. that way it
becomes useful when you want to expand (add to your array) or maybe when you're overhauling your system. by
that time you won't need to climb to the roof again just to check your panels specs.

odilibe: I will track-down all sat receivable in sub-Sahara /west afica next week with my 2.5mesh..

While my 2.4m Pan dish will be upgraded to 3m pan dish for fringe reception in Enugu ,will report my finding,soon!

@odilibe,

Do we take it that the EAGLE has finally landed?

kd10: @ Sir King George_D i read back page 293 & see ur works on Cband tracking /signal with Strong K5 or K6 Cband lnb.pls is it different from Strong 15.k Cband lnb?if yes should i go for it? to solve the signal issue i ask about ealier Thanks.

@kd10,

I see that GH-ONE has already answered your question. However, the STRONG K5 or K6 LNBs look just like normal 15.k
LNBs. The only difference is that the numbers are engraved at the bottom of the LNB when you remove the blue plastic
cover that is covering the throat. From experience, the higher the number, the better the performance.

But like what GH-ONE told you, first of all aim for a bigger dish and install/align it properly. After that, you can
install the STRONG k6 or K5 and either of them will give you what you want.

SniperInADiaper: Are you gay? The driver is a guy

@Topic Cofffee ... I always drink coffee when reading NL.

my bad. i was thinking it was a she driver. they have a few of them these days especially with dhl.

the last one that came to deliver a parcel to me at home was something else!

almost invited her to my inner chamber for 'better' discussions!

SniperInADiaper: Fedex ... my delivery driver with them is hot

hey, i think i'll take the driver and give you the whole plate of rice instead!

i may have one thing or two to discuss with her in my room!

bodejohn,

ok, there will always be a disparity between your inverter voltage readings and your stand alone multimeter.

i noticed it too with the sukam and even cyberpower. also for those who have the prag digital servo stabiliser,

there will also be a difference in the three readings. however, like you said, its always better to go with

stand alone multimeter readings especially if its a reliable brand like fluke.

in fact most inverter oem manuals will always tell you that there is a +-2 percent difference in their inverter

meter voltage readings when compared to actual values.

good job aniiii.

please keep it up.

bodejohn:

Thanks again, Oga George.
I will relocate the inverter away from the top of the batteries.
One more question, i discovered that the dc voltage reading off my fluke meter and charge controller under the same condition is different. Infact it is almost 2volts. You know 2volts in batteries is a big gap in terms of determining the approximate level of SOC. When the inverter says 48.5v the fluke meter gives 50.4volts.
Have you noticed this difference in your sukam? Which of the readings would you rather trust, sukam or fluke meter?

hello bodejohn,

i'd rather go with the fluke meter readings as against sukam.

the fluke meter is an internationally certified piece of precision equipment. sukam on the
other hand even though a good inverter but i don't think the manufacturers may consider investing in a
precision voltage meter as an economically wise move.

SniperInADiaper:

Yes. !!! am eating Indomie now

hmmmmm! not bad either. do you want it by post, email, dhl or ups?

abunafiu,

congrats for finally grabbing hold of the prag. as you may have noticed, it's a totally different kettle
of fish altogether. compared to the relay types of stabilisers that seem to be so common place, the
bells and whistles are hard to ignore.

remember to always put it on 'delay' mode while ensuring the bypass switch is on the 'off' position
for normal operation.

bodejohn:

Oga Geroge, the equalizer i am talking about is quite different from the one you explained.
Sometimes the voltage of batteries in a series string can be different from each other.
The "battery equalizer" i am talking about ensure that the batteries are the same voltages to prevent undercharging and over charging.

See more details in at this link: http://www.mygadgetsmall.com/shopping/inverter-and-solar-accessories/sukam-battery-equaliser/prod_360.html

hello bodejohn,

i think we are both saying the same thing. the battery equalisation function is embedded in the tristar mppt charge
controller. i don't know if same applies to your own brand of controller though. if yes, then you do not need an
external equaliser for your batteries. but if no, then perhaps you may need to go for it.


p.s: nice pictures there for your setup. however you will need a good battery rack for your batteries. its not too
advisable placing your inverter directly on top of your batteries.

SniperInADiaper:

Im slightly jealous.

don't be, my sister.

i could send you some if you like?

coconut rice!

bodejohn,

sukam is a good inverter but don't fall for that marketing gimmick.

unless you're using flooded lead-acid (wet cell) batteries you don't really need any
battery equaliser. however should you need to equalise your batteries at any point in time
you could always do it through your solar charge controller - provided you are using a high
end brand with embedded features like the tristar mppt.

bodejohn,

congrats on the arrival of your sukam inverter and dc breakers.

just like abunafiu earlier told you and which you must have already discovered (since you already have
the inverter with you), there are no user adjustable switches for changing charging current save the toggle
switch at the back of the inverter. you can select between 16a and 12a charging current. of course you'll
normally like to leave it at the higher selection which is 16a. also you get to choose between ups and wide
ups. its is advisable to leave the switch at ups position.

other than the above, the sukam inverter is really a 'buy and use' type of inverter. and that is another thing
that differentiates it from others like cyberpower. you don't need any expert installer neither do you need
to modify your house neutral wiring. as long as you have a basic knowledge of dc voltage, you should be able
to get it up and running in less than an hour including battery connection.

no, i don't have a battery equalizer. i use my tristar charge controller for that.

lurojohn: @George D , dey are all brand new

ok

neduzi:

George come for yours pls!

ok. will call you soon.

thanks!

lurojohn: Expecting your calls, Happy Sunday
08064766731, 25E243B5
Delivery With Extra Cost
Hp Mini 320/2gb cam,bt @52k
Acer Mini 320/2gb cam,bt @ 49k
Packard Bell Mini 320/1gb @47k
Hp 2000 amd dual 320/2gb cam only win8 @ 64k.
Hp 655 amd dual 500/4gb cam,bt win8 @ 67k
Hp 650 Intel dual 320/4gb cam,bt win8 @ 72k
Hp 650 Intel i3 320/4gb cam,bt win8@ 75k
Hp 650 intel dual 500/4gb cam,bt win8 @ 75k
Hp 650 intel i3 500/4gb win8@ 82k
Hp probook 4540s i3 500/4gb cam,bt,fingerprints, win8 @ 90k
Dell Inspiron intel dual 500/4gb cam,bt win8 @ 72k

hello lurojohn,

are these brand new laptops or fairly used ones?