nwanzekwuchuks:
Good evening all, intend buying naija used Honda dc 2007, please what is the way to handle the leg without it been pulled, at least 1year. Please help.

Change your ball joint as soon as you buy it and replace it every year, even if it still looks good. And always buy original ball joints.

kelvinmnet:


I initially thought that if i change the filter on the tranny, it could salvage the situation.

There is something called "chain reaction".
The oil filter might be the genesis of the problem. It might be clogged. A clogged filter starves components of oil. Components that don't get oiled wear out fast. Worn parts give you jerks. The clogged filter is worse when cold but opens up a bit when the tranny warms up. That is why your jeck is worse when cold. So now you have both a clogged filter and worn parts. Replacing only the filter will not fix the worn parts.

Starboytwo:
Good morning senior men them.

I been hearing some little noise when I drive (2004 EOD) so I went to my mechanic straight, gave him the keys to observe, make he no be like I dey hear nothing.

He summary concluded it's the ball joint thingy and told me to change it for peace of mind etc.

Now he billing me 50k + and I just wanted to ask if that should be the correct bill.

He is my egbon, but has a knack for inflating price for me small. He say I resemble yahoo.

Maybe he wants to order brand new ball joints direct from Honda. But as Honda is no longer building ball joints for 2004 accord, they will have to assemble a new plant for him. That is why it is expensive.

Macmilla:

Nigerians don't really care about their cars. We just want it to move from point A to point B. We don't go to the mechanic when a check engine pops up. We only go when the care stops moving. 90% of cars on Nigerian roads have the check engine light on. In fact, if you go to a technician for the only reason that your check light came on, some technicians will think you are stupid.
I have a basic scanner in my car and I don't joke with the check engine light. I basically stop by the road just to scan if it comes up. It has saved me a ton of headaches. And it cost me less than 5k to buy.
If you love your car, don't joke with the check engine light. How else will the car alert you at the earliest sign of problem?

I was driving home months ago when I noticed the check engine light came up, I branched, told the technician and his response "It's normal, don't worry sir, it won't cause any damage" Omo, I know say waka still plenty for my leg. 😂
I eventually fixed it through another technician and everytime I see the"it won't cause any damage" guy,I always feel somehow.

Macmilla:

Please do not add pressure to the back of any ball joint. If your ball joint has excessive free play, REPLACE IT. Pressing the head of the ball joint to make it right is a recipe for disaster. Even if it looks like it worked, you will face a bigger problem in less than a month.

You quoted me out of context, but it's fine.
Adding clamp pressure to the edge won't cause any harm. You might mess it up if you add excessive pressure to the center.
Besides no body is asking you to go crazy with the clamp, it's just to stop the ball from spinning in the socket while tightening the nuts if it does spins.
But it's fine, do what works.

jceesquare:

You quoted me out of context, but it's fine.
Adding clamp pressure to the edge won't cause any harm. You might mess it up if you add excessive pressure to the center.
Besides no body is asking you to go crazy with the clamp, it's just to stop the ball from spinning in the socket while tightening the nuts if it does spins.
But it's fine, do what works.

Whether the pressure is on the head or on the edge; Whether you are going crazy with the pressure or not; the ball joint is not a repairable part. Once you have a reason to press it, it is a reason to replace it. The ball joint has very tiny tolerance. The ball is supposed to move smoothly in the socket. There's supposed to be grease in between. Pressing the head or the edge will wound the smooth surface of the ball and this will make smooth movements impossible, causing more harm to it. Besides, the first step to ball joint spoiling is when the rubber boot cuts open, letting the grease escape and allowing water and elements to enter. You CAN NOT reverse all these by just pressing. Please do the right thing.

Macmilla:

Whether the pressure is on the head or on the edge; Whether you are going crazy with the pressure or not; the ball joint is not a repairable part. Once you have a reason to press it, it is a reason to replace it. The ball joint has very tiny tolerance. The ball is supposed to move smoothly in the socket. There's supposed to be grease in between. Pressing the head or the edge will wound the smooth surface of the ball and this will make smooth movements impossible, causing more harm to it. Besides, the first step to ball joint spoiling is when the rubber boot cuts open, letting the grease escape and allowing water and elements to enter. You CAN NOT reverse all these by just pressing. Please do the right thing.

You're acting woke.
Continue.
You ask questions and learn if you do not know something.
So when you're tightening the nut on a perfectly okay and firm ball joint and the stud turns with it you'd discard it because you want to sound morally correct and right?

Macmilla:

Whether the pressure is on the head or on the edge; Whether you are going crazy with the pressure or not; the ball joint is not a repairable part. Once you have a reason to press it, it is a reason to replace it. The ball joint has very tiny tolerance. The ball is supposed to move smoothly in the socket. There's supposed to be grease in between. Pressing the head or the edge will wound the smooth surface of the ball and this will make smooth movements impossible, causing more harm to it. Besides, the first step to ball joint spoiling is when the rubber boot cuts open, letting the grease escape and allowing water and elements to enter. You CAN NOT reverse all these by just pressing. Please do the right thing.

Go tell the Indians and Pakistani that the ball joint is not a repairable part.
Just because you've not seen it done don't mean it's not possible.

Please how much is 03 Accord windshield

jceesquare:

You're acting woke.
Continue.
You ask questions and learn if you do not know something.
So when you're tightening the nut on a perfectly okay and firm ball joint and the stud turns with it you'd discard it because you want to sound morally correct and right?

Perfectly ok indeed. If it was perfectly ok why then are you "adding pressure" as you called it? Anyways, it is your car. Do with it as you please. I just have a problem with people blaming Honda after messing up their car themselves.

Good evening all
my car is 2009 acura tsx... i changed my plugs recently and today when driving my car went off immediately i overtook a trailer, God saved me the trailer wasn't speeding.... it took hard start to come on.. and did several going off... it'd go off for like a second and back on...

I scanned it and got P060A and p1659

olaboyeh:
Good evening all
my car is 2009 acura tsx... i changed my plugs recently and today when driving my car went off immediately i overtook a trailer, God saved me the trailer wasn't speeding.... it took hard start to come on.. and did several going off... it'd go off for like a second and back on...

I scanned it and got P060A and p1659

Your throttle body relay and ECM needs to be checked.

kingreign:


Your throttle body relay and ECM needs to be checked.

omor... does anyone have a good mechanic or rewire around abule egba axis in lagos.. for Honda vehicles o!

abeg

olaboyeh:


omor... does anyone have a good mechanic or rewire around abule egba axis in lagos.. for Honda vehicles o!

abeg

@jceesquare your attention is needed.

olaboyeh:
Good evening all
my car is 2009 acura tsx... i changed my plugs recently and today when driving my car went off immediately i overtook a trailer, God saved me the trailer wasn't speeding.... it took hard start to come on.. and did several going off... it'd go off for like a second and back on...

I scanned it and got P060A and p1659

Kindly call 07089030689 for assistance

vivalavida:


@jceesquare your attention is needed.

Thanks for the mention

jceesquare:

Kindly call 07089030689 for assistance

thanks

olaboyeh:


omor... does anyone have a good mechanic or rewire around abule egba axis in lagos.. for Honda vehicles o!

abeg

Contact @jceesquare. He's your best bet Boss

Abeg, does anyone know lf this Lefthand Drive Dashboard parts of this car is in Nigeria?
As well as the left hand door fittings parts?

Brand name: Honda Accord Euro
Year: 2010

Craggybogg:
Abeg, does anyone know lf this Lefthand Drive Dashboard parts of this car is in Nigeria?
As well as the left hand door fittings parts?

Brand name: Honda Accord Euro
Year: 2010

I have seen a couple of them in Nigeria severally.

If I'm not mistaken, you can get the Acura TSX or the normal American spec dashboard as well as other accessories of same year for it and it will fit properly, only the steering logo might be different.

If you're in Lagos, just go to Willoughby Street in Oyingbo and I'm very certain you'll get all what you need there.

Cryomancer:
Contact @jceesquare. He's your best bet Boss

Thanks for the mention.
Car has been fixed.

jceesquare:

Thanks for the mention.
Car has been fixed.

Nice one..

Hello Guys I greet una.

I’m in the mid of settling for one of this car.

The 2009/10 Acura TSX V6 with the technology package

Or

2009 Honda civic.

Which of them is a good buy?

johnnyn1:
Hello Guys I greet una.

I’m in the mid of settling for one of this car.

The 2009/10 Acura TSX V6 with the technology package

Or

2009 Honda civic.

Which of them is a good buy?

Acura is better

Civic is more maintenance friendly

Choose your poison WISELY

johnnyn1:
Hello Guys I greet una.

I’m in the mid of settling for one of this car.

The 2009/10 Acura TSX V6 with the technology package

Or

2009 Honda civic.

Which of them is a good buy?

Acura is more sophisticated in terms of performance, build, components. However this comes with a deep pocket for maintenance and the fact that TSX isn't really too noticeable on the Nigerian roads, the parts are mostly available especially in Lagos but the parts are definitely not scarce.

Civic in the other hand is a mid and common car with parts readily available anywhere you are, it can be described as the Corolla of Honda because of its fuel economy.

Depends on what you look out for in vehicles, if you love performance, balance and aesthetics, then go for the Acura. But if you just need a car to move you from point A to point B, then go for the Civic.

If you decide to settle for Acura, try to get the 2010/2011 version. I advise later years of a new product because most times, new designs of cars released in the first year are prone to recalls for few corrections, and these corrections are always perfected in the later years of production for same vehicles.

In all of this, if you don't have a good maintenance culture and attention to details, please stay away from Honda/Acura vehicles because it will m3ss you up and you might end up joining the group of people who say "Honda vehicles are not reliable"

I hope this helps.

johnnyn1:
Hello Guys I greet una.

I’m in the mid of settling for one of this car.

The 2009/10 Acura TSX V6 with the technology package

Or

2009 Honda civic.

Which of them is a good buy?

i use the 09 TSX.... the two cars in your list are in different leagues... it's a great car and parts are not scarce... but if you are buying the v6 get ready because you'd buy fuelllll!...Acura and Civic no be mate at alll!!!!!.....

Hello guys. My car runs fine, no check engine light.

But sometime I ago I noticed that the car vibrates during reverse so after cleaning the throttle body it runs well now, the issue was caused by the pipe in the image below spitting small dirty oil into the air flow box, so i had to remove it and cover it with a paper temporarily, is this safe?

remi4ever:
Hello guys. My car runs fine, no check engine light.

But sometime I ago I noticed that the car vibrates during reverse so after cleaning the throttle body it runs well now, the issue was caused by the pipe in the image below spitting small dirty oil into the air flow box, so i had to remove it and cover it with a paper temporarily, is this safe?

Your vehicle will not heat up to operating temperature quickly with that hole plugged. If you use a thermostat and don't want to be wasting 1 - 2 litres of fuel every morning after a cold start you better open up the hole back and plug in that pipe.

On the other hand, the reason engine oil is getting tucked into your throttle body via that hole is possibly due to a clogged PCV valve. Either clean it or change it so the issue goes away.

Conner44:


Your vehicle will not heat up to operating temperature quickly with that hole plugged. If you use a thermostat and don't want to be wasting 1 - 2 litres of fuel every morning after a cold start you better open up the hole back and plug in that pipe.

On the other hand, the reason engine oil is getting tucked into your throttle body via that hole is possibly due to a clogged PCV valve. Either clean it or change it so the issue goes away.

Thanks man, you've been very very helpful. I don't know why I smiled while reading bolded.

I'll read more on the pcv valve.

Namzy:


Try cleaning the solenoid. Start with the one attached to the transmission and then to the ones inside. Job is not for the faint of heart and will be as a last resort

This morning, the D started blinking and when scanned, it showed P0756
Meaning that the Shift Solenoid valve B.

Also scanned the engine and it showed P0341

Any lead on the fix?

kelvinmnet:


This morning, the D started blinking and when scanned, it showed P0756
Meaning that the Shift Solenoid valve B.

Also scanned the engine and it showed P0341

Any lead on the fix?

Shift solenoid valve B is that double connector big switch on the front of your gearbox. First check for cut wiring or loose plugs, bring it out and clean it. If no respite then it's time for a replacement. Do it quickly so as not to fry your valvebody as you force it to work.

As for the other P0341 code, it points to either of 3 things, let me list them from most obvious to severe.

1. Open your engine bay and on the top right hand side of your valve cover you would see where your camshafts are plugged in. One of them might be malfunctioning, so to be sure of which, take them both off with a 10 inch spanner, clean them and switch their positions as you slot them back in. Take the vehicle for a spin after clearing the codes (or removing your battery heads for 30 mins)

2. Your timing chain adjuster (tensioner) is bad and has lost tortion. It has to be replaced. It can be done by your mechanic easily via the small access door built into the timing chain cover on the left hand side of your engine just behind the passenger driver wheel. Removing it is not hard but better let a mech do it.

3. Your timing chain has slacked or jumped a tooth (or worse some teeth) now this is the worst of this issue because if it gets too bad and jumps more clogs your engine can grenade while you're driving due ro your pistons colliding with your valves. In this case you'd need take it to a mech to replace both the timing chain and it's tensioner rod as a pair. Do this ASAP too as you can never tell when the issue escalates on a drive until you hear your engine 'knock'

Those are your choices for fixes to these issues you're currently experiencing. Good luck 👍🏾

Conner44:


Shift solenoid valve B is that double connector big switch on the front of your gearbox. First check for cut wiring or loose plugs, bring it out and clean it. If no respite then it's time for a replacement. Do it quickly so as not to fry your valvebody as you force it to work.

As for the other P0341 code, it points to either of 3 things, let me list them from most obvious to severe.

1. Open your engine bay and on the top right hand side of your valve cover you would see where your camshafts are plugged in. One of them might be malfunctioning, so to be sure of which, take them both off with a 10 inch spanner, clean them and switch their positions as you slot them back in. Take the vehicle for a spin after clearing the codes (or removing your battery heads for 30 mins)

2. Your timing chain adjuster (tensioner) is bad and has lost tortion. It has to be replaced. It can be done by your mechanic easily via the small access door built into the timing chain cover on the left hand side of your engine just behind the passenger driver wheel. Removing it is not hard but better let a mech do it.

3. Your timing chain has slacked or jumped a tooth (or worse some teeth) now this is the worst of this issue because if it gets too bad and jumps more clogs your engine can grenade while you're driving due ro your pistons colliding with your valves. In this case you'd need take it to a mech to replace both the timing chain and it's tensioner rod as a pair. Do this ASAP too as you can never tell when the issue escalates on a drive until you hear your engine 'knock'

Those are your choices for fixes to these issues you're currently experiencing. Good luck 👍🏾

Thanks bro, much appreciated.
When I checked online for the error code P0756, it showed the sensor inside the tranny...