8kva 48v felicity ivem hybrid inverter available, #1,100,000. Call/WhatsApp me on 08168986461

justcallmenuel:
750w flame solar panels now available, #180,000. Call/WhatsApp me on 08168986461

That's the largest wattage panel I've seen so far.

Good day bosses in the house...

Abeg make una help me with solutions to the below problem ..

Did 4.2kw 24v installation with two 220ah tubular batteries abt 2mths ago.

Now the customer sent me a message this morning that for abt one week now the batteries goes off around 2-3am with just DC bulb load (10pices of 5W each).

Load use on the battery.. 1HP pumping machine.. Once in abt 3 and days,running hrs like 1hr max during the day.

Inverter fridge and freezer from 8am to 6pm now reduced to 3pm

And the DC bulb for night useage..

Kindly note that the batteries get alot of charge before the sun goes of.. It always in the float state before it comes down to the normal 50% battery level and still sound for low battery warning even without much load around 3am max..

What can i do to rewake or b boost the batteries pls..?


Thanks all.

Ooreofegrace:
Good day bosses in the house...

Abeg make una help me with solutions to the below problem ..

Did 4.2kw 24v installation with two 220ah tubular batteries abt 2mths ago.

Now the customer sent me a message this morning that for abt one week now the batteries goes off around 2-3am with just DC bulb load (10pices of 5W each).

Load use on the battery.. 1HP pumping machine.. Once in abt 3 and days,running hrs like 1hr max during the day.

Inverter fridge and freezer from 8am to 6pm now reduced to 3pm

And the DC bulb for night useage..

Kindly note that the batteries get alot of charge before the sun goes of.. It always in the float state before it comes down to the normal 50% battery level and still sound for low battery warning even without much load around 3am max..

What can i do to rewake or b boost the batteries pls..?


Thanks all.

What type of inverter are u using and the nos/type of panels u used? Suspecting sms though. How are u sure they are not putting extra loads and not mentioning it. Its either that or the batteries aren't charging well sha

Anyone used this controller before? The mppt has solid history so hoping this wont disappoint. Like the LiPO4 ability.

..

Drgreatone:

What type of inverter are u using and the nos/type of panels u used? Suspecting sms though. How are u sure they are not putting extra loads and not mentioning it. Its either that or the batteries aren't charging well sha

Ooreofegrace:
Good day bosses in the house...

Abeg make una help me with solutions to the below problem ..

Did 4.2kw 24v installation with two 220ah tubular batteries abt 2mths ago.

Now the customer sent me a message this morning that for abt one week now the batteries goes off around 2-3am with just DC bulb load (10pices of 5W each).

Load use on the battery.. 1HP pumping machine.. Once in abt 3 and days,running hrs like 1hr max during the day.

Inverter fridge and freezer from 8am to 6pm now reduced to 3pm

And the DC bulb for night useage..

Kindly note that the batteries get alot of charge before the sun goes of.. It always in the float state before it comes down to the normal 50% battery level and still sound for low battery warning even without much load around 3am max..

What can i do to rewake or b boost the batteries pls..?


Thanks all.

U DIDNT MENTION ANYTHING about solar panels?.
max load you shud put on the system without damaging it is 20amps x 24volts wch is about 500watts....that pumping machine, have you checked the actual draw?..same for the freezer.

what of battery charge voltage algorithm...what voltages did u set the inverter to?..abi you just left it on default?
check the SG of the battery electrolyte with a hydrometer and be sure its good

earthrealm:


U DIDNT MENTION ANYTHING about solar panels?.
max load you shud put on the system without damaging it is 20amps x 24volts wch is about 500watts....that pumping machine, have you checked the actual draw?..same for the freezer.

what of battery charge voltage algorithm...what voltages did u set the inverter to?..abi you just left it on default?
check the SG of the battery electrolyte with a hydrometer and be sure its good

Umm, explain this. Why?

HeavenlyBang:


Umm, explain this. Why?

Using the recommended C10 discharge rate for tubular batteries

jonescosmos:
Exactly my concern too.
Going to bury 4 rods is like treating the symptom rather than curing the disease. Of course it might make the leaks to neutral line to hide itself but that doesn't mean it went away. IT WILL SIMPLY FLOW TO EARTH AND YOU WILL HAVE ENERGY LOSS. SOMETIMES WE MISTAKE SOME OF THESE LOSSES AS IDLE CONSUMPTIONS

Besides, the bigger danger is the earth is not energized which should never be the case especially when you consider lots of appliances and metal frame are suppose to be connected to earth. This is why RCD is very important for a TT system. It is meant to spot a differential between live and neutral then trip to ensure safety.

Hybrid Inverter.... Wilion 4.2kw
Jinko panel.. 580w x3.. Brand new..all in series input volt btw 130v and 150v
It's always on flot 27. v during suning hrs even with pumping machine on it..

No additional load.. Their tv is 35w..32" led TV which they use only during the weekend in the afternoon..

Drgreatone:

What type of inverter are u using and the nos/type of panels u used? Suspecting sms though. How are u sure they are not putting extra loads and not mentioning it. Its either that or the batteries aren't charging well sha

Panels are 568w x3
The only heavy load put on the system is the pump.. Which is abt 750 or so watt..
The fridge and freezer is inverter which sometimes stayed btw 114 and 60w..
Tv is below 30w also decoder..
Then bulbs..

Abt the charging parameters, it was left on default. Will hv to get battery charger to check the level..

earthrealm:


U DIDNT MENTION ANYTHING about solar panels?.
max load you shud put on the system without damaging it is 20amps x 24volts wch is about 500watts....that pumping machine, have you checked the actual draw?..same for the freezer.

what of battery charge voltage algorithm...what voltages did u set the inverter to?..abi you just left it on default?
check the SG of the battery electrolyte with a hydrometer and be sure its good

Ooreofegrace:
Panels are 568w x3
The only heavy load put on the system is the pump.. Which is abt 750 or so watt..
The fridge and freezer is inverter which sometimes stayed btw 114 and 60w..
Tv is below 30w also decoder..
Then bulbs..

Abt the charging parameters, it was left on default. Will hv to get battery charger to check the level..

ok panels check out, WELION inverter, you need to put it on flooded battery setting, not default or choose user and set bulk to 14.7v and float to 13.8v........and activate equalization immediately and set monthly equalization too for 4hrs at 31v.

am assuming the batterys are brand new, so electrolyte SG is correct, just that its not being charged and mixing well cos of the low/wrong voltage. higher/correct charge voltage and the periodic equalization shud sort you out real quick..

your leaving the inverter on default is the likely cause of this issue, and most average installers are guilty of this as well.
also the pump load is a bit high, but if you run it only during the day, with solar panels kicking in juice, you shud be fine

Ooreofegrace:
Good day bosses in the house...

Abeg make una help me with solutions to the below problem ..

Did 4.2kw 24v installation with two 220ah tubular batteries abt 2mths ago.

Now the customer sent me a message this morning that for abt one week now the batteries goes off around 2-3am with just DC bulb load (10pices of 5W each).

Load use on the battery.. 1HP pumping machine.. Once in abt 3 and days,running hrs like 1hr max during the day.

Inverter fridge and freezer from 8am to 6pm now reduced to 3pm

And the DC bulb for night useage..

Kindly note that the batteries get alot of charge before the sun goes of.. It always in the float state before it comes down to the normal 50% battery level and still sound for low battery warning even without much load around 3am max..

What can i do to rewake or b boost the batteries pls..?


Thanks all.

you are running about a 1KW load on 2 Tubular batteries. this is a stale story.
these batteries are for light loads.

Drgreatone:
Anyone used this controller before? The mppt has solid history so hoping this wont disappoint. Like the LiPO4 ability.

This will work as a PWM charging, nothing much to expect.
it has an LFP profile so you can configure it to charge based on 2 two-stage LFP CC/CV charging methods.

justcallmenuel:
750w flame solar panels now available, #180,000. Call/WhatsApp me on 08168986461

This is a joke.... Right
Just asking

bigrovar:


Please don't go broke trying to get sub 10 ohms earth resistance. For a TT system at least going by UK electric code for residential systems. (We use TT earthing system in Nigeria)

Minium theoretical earth electrode resistance is actually 1666 Ohms. Now that is theoretical. In practice anything below 200 ohms is considered ok but below 100 ohms is recommended.

10 ohms and below are requirement for industrial applications and power equipments line transformers, power substations, Network Masts etc.

They are not a requirement for home earthing of electrical components. To get anything below 10 ohms for domestic earth rod would be very expensive.

The important thing to note in all of this is that. Homes are required to use RCDs to compliment a domestically installed earthing system.

This helps to provide protection in place of a very low earth electrode set out to provide ie trip a breaker in the case of an earth fault. Since 100 ohms earth rod is incapable of tripping a breaker. An RCD does that job

Source

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/8.6.1.htm

https://community.screwfix.com/threads/tt-earthing-readings.173423/

https://www.quora.com/In-a-TT-earthing-system-how-does-the-fault-current-go-through-the-consumer-earth-rod-to-source-the-earth-rod-through-the-earth-because-the-earth-s-resistance-is-too-high



If your RCD trips then that is a bigger issue with your electrical connection which needs to be fixed and not a or problem with your earthing.


Secondly lots of people including me use to go all in on likes of bentonite and GEMs. Until I realize just drilling your earth rod into the ground should be sufficient..

See compacted earth and length of earth rod matters more than some of these Earthing materials. From all the literature I have read on the issue, getting an 8 foot earth rod (copper bonded is fine and stronger than all copper earth rod which can be quite brittle)

Just drilling your earth rod on undisturbed compacted soil ensures the earth is fine.
At least you can carry out soil resistant before you start.
If you live in a place of high soil resistant or rocky place then you can consider an eathing enhancer just note that
most of the GEMS currently in the market are fakes / immitation. I spoke to the authorized distributor for GEMs and he said he doesn't stock them any more due to high dollar rates. Last one he sold went for 80k for 12.5kg bag.

Bentonite is a good alternative earth rod backfill but again I am not sure on the quality product we have in the market.

Bentonite also tend to expand and crack when dry this allows air bubbles which means some part of your earth rod losses contact with the earth if encased in bentonite.

Most people in the west just put the ground rod directly into the ground (without digging a hole) The idea is digging a hole reduces the compactness of the soil, a soil disturbed and backfilled might take 20 years to compact again. Soil compactness is required to ensure the rod maintains contact with the soil around it and contact is not lost if the soil settles.

I go with the school of thought that believe that if you can drive a long enough earth rod like 8ft and above you should be fine without any extra hole digging.

Source https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=11731

When considered the minimum recommended earth resistance is sub 100ohms having a good earthing becomes quite inexpensive and easy to do without delving into sneak oil or spending tons of money.

Earthing is just one part of protection system. You still need to ensure earth neutral bonding is available in your system (by doing an impudence test) hopefully earthing of your grid transformer is done properly.

And if you are on inverter ensure your inverter has a MEN rely when operating in island mode.

Also your RCD.. if you get a lot of nuisance trip consider a 300mA RCD for the whole house just make sure the trip time is below 50ms.

Also take time to identify why your RCD is tripping.

This is my humble take on this. Remember I am not a qualified electrician so please feel free to take whatever I say with a pinch of salt.

Just saw this RCD, looks like what installers use as breaker between high voltage inverter and battery

Trippledots:


If I don't have contents in my freezer that needs to stay iced up, i'ld power down my inverter, manually disconnect grid, leave my battery and solar side connected.

Reason: SAFETY FIRST. It's never a wise idea to live energized equipment unattended to, especially for long periods of time.

The grid connection was an oversight.

I intended to disconnect.

This isn't my first time traveling and leaving the stuff connected.

I don't know if it makes a difference but my house is next to an AEDc transformer.

And I know they do proper earthing for those things.

One of the transformer earth rods in my compound.

I'll seek advice if I can link my own earthing to that one.

Thanks alot for this chief.. Will go back there and run this steps..

earthrealm:


ok panels check out, WELION inverter, you need to put it on flooded battery setting, not default or choose user and set bulk to 14.7v and float to 13.8v........and activate equalization immediately and set monthly equalization too for 4hrs at 31v.

am assuming the batterys are brand new, so electrolyte SG is correct, just that its not being charged and mixing well cos of the low/wrong voltage. higher/correct charge voltage and the periodic equalization shud sort you out real quick..

your leaving the inverter on default is the likely cause of this issue, and most average installers are guilty of this as well.
also the pump load is a bit high, but if you run it only during the day, with solar panels kicking in juice, you shud be fine

Are you saying two 220ah tubular batteries can comfortably run 1HP pumping machine?


will tell them to use gen for now and study the set up,although hv always run my installation with pumping machine and other low load and it runs fine for yrs with no issues.

Dam5reey:


you are running about a 1KW load on 2 Tubular batteries. this is a stale story.
these batteries are for light loads.

Dam5reey:


This will work as a PWM charging, nothing much to expect.
it has an LFP profile so you can configure it to charge based on 2 two-stage LFP CC/CV charging methods.

Just want something as back up if the day ever comes that my hybrid inverter decides to act up as I already av a back up inverter

Ooreofegrace:
Good day bosses in the house...

Abeg make una help me with solutions to the below problem ..

Did 4.2kw 24v installation with two 220ah tubular batteries abt 2mths ago.

Now the customer sent me a message this morning that for abt one week now the batteries goes off around 2-3am with just DC bulb load (10pices of 5W each).

Load use on the battery.. 1HP pumping machine.. Once in abt 3 and days,running hrs like 1hr max during the day.

Inverter fridge and freezer from 8am to 6pm now reduced to 3pm

And the DC bulb for night useage..

Kindly note that the batteries get alot of charge before the sun goes of.. It always in the float state before it comes down to the normal 50% battery level and still sound for low battery warning even without much load around 3am max..

What can i do to rewake or b boost the batteries pls..?


Thanks all.

A battery can be 70% charged and charge controller will enter float especially those charge controllers that don't have automatic absorption time. So you can deplete your battery and the next day your default 2 hours absorption time won't even take the battery pass 70% before the charge controller enters float because the 2 hours of absorption has reached you should get a battery monitor with lead acid battery. Another crude method is when the charge controller is in float, switch off the inverter and check how many watts the charge controller uses to maintain the float voltage if it's above say 200w or more then you have a long way to go

Namzy:


A battery can be 70% charged and charge controller will enter float especially those charge controllers that don't have automatic absorption time. So you can deplete your battery and the next day your default 2 hours absorption time won't even take the battery pass 70% before the charge controller enters float because the 2 hours of absorption has reached you should get a battery monitor with lead acid battery. Another crude method is when the charge controller is in float, switch off the inverter and check how many watts the charge controller uses to maintain the float voltage if it's above say 200w or more then you have a long way to go

this is what most don't take note of, you cant really know the SOC on the lead Acid unless there is a capacity meter that most don't use.
people will assume they only pump during the day without noting that battery maybe on float and it will take some time for controller to go back to bulk harming the batteries without knowing.

Because of poor charging algorithm, efficiency tubular and lead acid is just a no no for me. especially in 2024 where price of LFP has fallen.

brightk:
it seems like nairaland dm is not working presently... can i have ur whatsapp digit?

fegeitok at Yandex dot com

What does this mean on an Axpert inverter?
It's been this way all day today

The solar charging line isn't showing

gadgetplanetng:
What does this mean on an Axpert inverter?
It's been this way all day today

The solar charging line isn't showing

what is the PV input Voltage, snap the side of the inverter where the specifications are.
show the PV voltage page on the inverter as well.
what is your panel configuration, total voc.
It may mean the starting voltage has not reached yet.
this is what I experienced at some point. the starting voltage is 150V. I watched the PV input voltage reach 149, but it didn't start.

gadgetplanetng:
What does this mean on an Axpert inverter?
It's been this way all day today

The solar charging line isn't showing

Could be cloudy or shadows on ur panel so its not supplying

I've attached the photos.

It might be the weather very cloudy today

I noticed it some days ago too when my battery was full but once I put load on it it started charging again so was confused seeing it today weather is dull.

Dam5reey:


what is the PV input Voltage, snap the side of the inverter where the specifications are.
show the PV voltage page on the inverter as well.
what is your panel configuration, total voc.
It may mean the starting voltage has not reached yet.
this is what I experienced at some point. the starting voltage is 150V. I watched the PV input voltage reach 149, but it didn't start.

It's really cloudy today though.

Drgreatone:

Could be cloudy or shadows on ur panel so its not supplying

gadgetplanetng:
I've attached the photos.

It might be the weather very cloudy today

I noticed it some days ago too when my battery was full but once I put load on it it started charging again so was confused seeing it today weather is dull.



It's really cloudy today though.

Zero Current from PV is interesting.

Hello House
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Call/chat - 08 one 1739 829 four

I'm suspecting there's an error somewhere.

I turned off the breaker for the panels but nothing changed.

I'd wait when it's dark and turn off the battery let me see what happens in the morning.

Dam5reey:


Zero Current from PV is interesting.

Ooreofegrace:
Panels are 568w x3
The only heavy load put on the system is the pump.. Which is abt 750 or so watt..
The fridge and freezer is inverter which sometimes stayed btw 114 and 60w..
Tv is below 30w also decoder..
Then bulbs..

Abt the charging parameters, it was left on default. Will hv to get battery charger to check the level..

The person you did the installation for may be having serious issue with load management. You're not there with them and I'm very sure their consumption is more than what they reported to you.
What is the idle power consumption of the 4.2kva 24v inverter?
The max inverter capacity I give for 24v system is 3.2kw.
In summary, add the inverter idle power consumption, add the hidden loads, reduce the 50% usable dod battery capacity to 75%, and you will know what to tell them.
I may not know the name of your tubular batteries and I may not know the purchase source as well but you should know that about 80% of these product's capacity are overrated.
My first installed system has 4 pcs of 230ah Genus tubular batteries with 5.5kwh usable dod capacity but I reduced the usable capacity to 4.1kwh (75%) and I've never discharged them below 60%. This is what made the batteries to last till I sold them and the person who bought them are still using them today without any issue.
Advise them to buy a good battery meter reading like Victron BMV.
The 1Hp pump maybe consuming 1kw depending on the distance of the installed machine and the cable size and parts of the consumption may as well pick up from the battery without their knowledge.